PRINCETON  •  NEW  JERSEY 


KI^^J). 


PRESENTED  BY 

Dela,van  L.   Piers  on 


^ 


PILKINGTON    .    . 
.    .    OF    UGANDA 


K.  W.  Simpson  &  Co.,  Ltd., 
The  Richmond  Press, 

BlCHMcND    AND     LONDON. 


La/ayettc,  Dublin. 


piLKINGTON 

OF   UGANDA 


BY 

CHARLES  F.  HARFORD-BATTERSBY,  M.A.,  M.D. 

(Principal  of  Livingstone  College.) 
Author  of  "Daily,"    "Do  you  pray?"  &c. 


WITH   AN    INTRODUCTORY   CHAPTER   BY 

REV.     J.      H.      SKRINE,     M.A., 

(Warden  of  Trinity  College,  Glenalmond). 


XonOon. 

MARSHALL    BROTHERS 

Keswick  House,  Paternoster  Row,  E  C 


to  the  parents  of 
George  Lawrence  Pilkington 

THIS    RECORD    OF    THEIR    SON's    LIFE    AND 

WORK    IS    DEDICATED,    IN    RECOGNITION 

OF   THE    INFLUENCE    OF    HIS    EARLY   TRAINING 

UPON    HIS    MISSIONARY    CAREER. 


CONTENTS 


Pagk 

Preface     -------      xl 

Introductory  Chapter  -  -  -  -       xi 

CHAPTER   I. 
Home         -------        i 

CHAPTER   II. 
Uppingham  ------        8 

CHAPTER  III. 
Cambridge  Days  -  -  -  -  -      20 

CHAPTER    IV. 
The  Missionary  Call   -  -  -  -  -      4i 

CHAPTER   V. 
A  Visit  to  Kilimanjaro  -  -  -  -      65 


CHAPTER  VI, 
The  Long  March 


80 


CHAPTER   VII. 
Uganda  at  last  -  -  -  -  -     ii3 

CHAPTER   VIII. 
A  Lull  in  the  Storm  -  -  -  -    127 


viii  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER   IX. 
Civil  War  -  -  -  -  -  -    i6o 

CHAPTER  X. 
Language  Study  -  -  -  -  -    185 

CHAPTER  XL 
The  First  Mutiny         ....  -    2o9 

CHAPTER   XIL 
A  Revival  -  -  -  -  -  -    221 

CHAPTER  XHL 
On  Furlough      .-.-..    240 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
Bible  Translation        .  .  .  .  .    264 

CHAPTER  XV. 
The  Church  in  Uganda  :  A  Retrospect    -  -    272 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
The  Future  of  Uganda  :  A  Forecast        -  -    287 


CHAPTER  XVII. 
By  Bicycle  10  Uganda 


CHAPTER   XIX. 
A  Last  Word 


302 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 
The  Second  Mutiny      -----    31Q 


339 


PREFACE 


This  book  is  an  attempt  to  record  the  life  story  of 
one  who,  whether  as  a  boy  at  school,  as  a  Master, 
or  as  a  Missionary,  "  tried  to  do  his  duty." 
Wherever  possible  he  speaks  for  himself,  and  it  will 
be  understood  that  the  majority  of  the  letters  are 
private,  and  were  never  intended  for  publication. 
The  usual  allowances  must  therefore  be  made  for 
some  freedom  of  style,  and  for  a  certain  abruptness 
in  passing  from  one  subject  to  another,  which  may 
be  noticed  in  some  letters.  It  is  hoped  that  this 
memoir  may  form  a  fitting  sequel  to  the  biography 
of  Mackay  of  Uganda,  which  tells  the  story  of 
Uganda  work  during  the  earlier  days  of  the  Mission, 
up  to  the  time  when  Pilkington  was  appointed  to 
Uganda.  With  this  in  view,  a  title  has  been 
adopted  which  may  serve  to  connect  the  two 
volumes.  There  is  no  attempt  here  to  give  a  history 
of  the  Mission,  except  in  so  far  as  it  refers  to  the  life 
and  work  of  Pilkington  of  Uganda. 

The  author  begs  to  tender  his  hearty  thanks  to 
the  Rev.  J.  H.  Skrine,  friend  and  former  master  of 
George  Pilkington,  for  an  Introductory  Chapter, 
and  for  many  valuable  suggestions ;  to   his  parents 


X  PREFACE. 

and  other  members  of  the  family,  who  have 
unreservedly  placed  at  his  disposal  letters  and  other 
materials,  besides  assisting  in  many  ways;  to  the 
Church  Missionary  Society  for  free  permission  to 
use  any  portion  of  their  publications,  and  for 
supplying  the  maps  which  are  given  in  this  volume, 
and  to  which  special  attention  is  directed;  to  Messrs. 
Lafayette,  of  Dublin,  for  permitting  the  reproduction 
of  the  frontispiece ;  and  to]  Dr.  Cook,  for  allowing 
the  use  of  the  photograph  taken  by  him  in  Uganda. 

Also  to  a  large  number  of  friends,  who  have 
supplied  materials  or  otherwise  rendered  assistance. 

That  this  book  may  lead  to  practical  results  in  the 
Evangelisation  of  Central  Africa  is  the  prayer  of 

The  Author. 


INTRODUCTORY     CHAPTER. 


I  AM  asked  to  give  my  reminiscences  of  George 
Pilkington  as  a  boy  at  Uppingham  and  later. 
My  first  sight  of  him  was  when  he  came  from 
Ireland  to  try  for  an  Entrance  Scholarship, 
which  he  gained.  His  look  is  still  distinct  in  my 
memory.  A  solid  little  figure  of  a  boy,  with  features 
promising  to  be  handsome  when  the  nose  should 
rise ;  a  complexion  with  the  bloom  on  it  of  a  boy 
from  the  soft  West ;  and  fine  eyes,  large  and  deep. 
But  most  I  remember  the  steady,  purposeful  air 
with  a  shade  of  attractive  shyness  in  it.  It  was 
the  look  of  a  boy  who  would  have,  perhaps,  genius, 
but  certainly  the  power  of  doing  something 
distinctive  in  life.  Most  boys  at  that  age  (and  it  is 
well  for  them)  look  as  if  they  were  only  conscious 
of  being  boys  ;  he  looked  also  conscious  of  going 
to  be  a  man. 

I  do  not  think  that  I  knew  him,  as  a  boy,  '  all 
round.'  As  a  pupil  in  class,  I  saw  much  of  him, 
and  in  another  aspect  which  I  am  coming  to.  But 
he  was  not  in  my  own  House,  and  I  hardly  have  a 
view  of  him  in  his  ordinary  life  among  other  boys. 

The  gravity  which  one  noted  in  him  when  '  on 
duty'  did  not,  I  believe,  prevent  him  from  being  as 
blithe  as  the  rest  of  the  world,  and  an  eager  talker ; 


i  INTRODUCTORY   CHAPTER. 

also,  I  fancy,  fond,  as  afterwards,  of  argument.  On 
the  football  field  I  remember  him  distinctly,  where 
his  play  was  solid,  business-like,  of  a  good  quality, 
though  without  genius. 

We  formed  good  expectations  of  his  scholarship, 
which  were  not  disappointed,  but  classical  scholar- 
ship, in  the  strict  sense,  was  not  a  thing  in  which 
the  strongest  side  of  his  mind  was  represented.  He 
rather  lacked  pliancy  and  imagination  in  the 
direction  of  language;  and  his  success  in  Latin  and 
Greek  was  somewhat  of  a  tour  de  force.  His  friends 
look  back  upon  his  classical  studies  as  the 
foundation  of  his  linguistic  success  in  Uganda;  and 
so,  no  doubt,  in  a  sense  they  were.  Yet  it  was  not 
because  he  was  a  *  scholar,'  in  the  literary  sense, 
that  he  made  so  great  an  interpreter  and  translator : 
the  power  of  languages  is  not  the  same  thing  as 
the  power  of  language,  and  his  splendid  work  on 
the  African  tongue  is  owed,  I  expect,  first  to  the 
scientific  element  in  him,  and  next,  to  that 
characteristic  of  him  noticed  by  those  who  knew 
him  best  from  childhood — a  power  of  minding  his 
own  business  and  doing  it. 

Only  one  incident  of  his  school  life,  worth 
chronicling,  recurs  to  me.  But  it  was  nearly  being 
the  last.  Bathing  in  the  pool  under  the  Weliand 
*  lasher,'  at  Thorpe,  before  he  could  swim,  he  stepped 
out  of  his  depth,  went  under,  not  once,  but  twice,  with- 
in a  few  yards  of  his  unconscious  comrades,  and  was 
sighted  and  saved  only  as  he  sank  a  third  time.  He 
told^me  there  was  no  discomfort  or  anxiety  in  the 
experience.     Remember,  superstitious  mortals,  that 


INTRODUCTORY   CHAPTER.  xiii 

one  may  be  saved  from  drowning  to  die,  not  by  the 
basest,  but  the  noblest,  of  all  deaths. 

But  if  I  recall  few  incidents,  there  is  a  season  of 
his  school  life  which,  among  my  memories  of  him, 
is  to  myself  the  most  worth  retaining,  for  it  is  the 
most  prophetic  of  the  life  which  followed.  It  is  the 
season  when  he  was  preparing  for  confirmation.  It 
fell  to  me  to  be  his  instructor,  and  as  he  did  not 
join  one  of  the  confirmation  classes  (his  confirmation 
was  at  home  and  at  another  time  than  the 
Uppingham  Confirmation),  but  came  to  me  alone, 
my  observation  of  him  was  the  more  intimate.  It 
is  one  best  recorded,  however,  by  briefly  saying 
that,  in  the  young  boy  then  at  my  side,  with  his 
silent  but  felt  intelligence  and  shy  enthusiasm,  I 
see  the  man  who  lived  and  died  for  Christ  in  Africa. 

And  I  ask  myself,  did  he,  in  the  later  stress  of 
religious  vehemence,  tell  himself  that  this  young  boy 
was  not  yet  converted,  and  did  not  yet  know  Christ 

aright  ? 

*  *  *  * 

When  he  left  Uppingham,  I  saw  him  only  once 
more.  He  came  back  there  in  the  summer  of  1886. 
He  was  much  transformed.  No  wonder,  for  the 
tide  of  that  religious  impulse  which  set  in  during 
his  Cambridge  days  was  now  running  strong.  I 
felt  something  of  shock  at  first.  The  enthusiasm, 
of  course,  was  boyish,  crude  as  new  wine  always  is, 
and  slightly,  though  only  slightly,  aggressive. 
The  strain  of  what  I  should  have  then  called 
Salvationism  had,  in  a  man  reading  for  a  classical 
First,  much  of    the  unexpected  and   even    odd  :  it 


xiv  INTRODUCTORY   CHAPTER. 

wanted  taking  in.  Then  an  Uppinghamian  of 
those  days  could  not  but  reel  a  shade  of  regret  to 
nrtice  how  the  '  old  school '  sentiment  and  what  we 
will  call  the  '  Uppingham  legend '  had  been  pushed 
(most  naturally)  into  the  background  of  his  mind. 
But  all  this  went  by  when  we  came,  as  we  did  at 
once,  to  close  quarters,  and  he  laid  bare  the  new 
thoughts  at  work  in  him.  He  talked  out  the 
religious  movement  at  Cambridge  (which  was  leaving 
poor  old  Oxford  a  long  way  behind,  I  remember), 
and  the  group  of  men  who  brought  the  '  new  wine  ' 
in  ;  and  we  argued  with  much  fulness,  and  mutual 
tolerance,  I  hope,  the  theory  of  Conversion, 
touching  on  the  question,  which  some  of  his 
Cambridge  friends  had  raised,  of  the  practicability 
of  sinlessness.  Then  we  came  upon  Missions  to 
the  Heathen,  and  here,  I  must  frankly  say,  I 
trembled ;  for  he  told  me  of  some  one  who  had  gone 
out  to  convert  China  (if  I  am  correct)  with  no 
companions,  and  no  appliances  except  the  Bible  in 
his  pocket.  George  seemed  to  think  my  demur  to 
this  plan  had  some  reason  in  it :  but  I  trembled, 
seeing  how  congenial  was  the  plan  to  the  theories 
running  in  his  brain,  lest  another  life,  and  one  I  had 
some  share  in,  should  be  lost  in  a  morass. 

That  fear  of  mine  was  not  unshared  by  other 
friends.  A  knightly  love  of  adventure  conspired 
with  the  disproportion  of  thought  inevitable  in  a 
time  of  religious  stress,  to  push  him  towards  courses 
which  we  thought  barren,  if  not  dangerous.  It  was 
with  a  sense  of  relief  that  we  heard  later  of  his 
destination   to   a   well  -  organised   field   of    mission 


INTRODUCTORY   CHAPTER.  xv 

work.  Meanwhile,  the  touch  of  the  '  clear  spirit,' 
of  the  glorious  whole-heartedness  of  him,  charmed 
these  apprehensions  away.  It  was  hard  to  do 
anything  but  rejoice  in  him.  It  was  easy  to  say  he 
was  a  little  fanatical  (why  not,  at  one  and  twenty?), 
but  whatever  there  was  of  the  fanatic  was  sweetly 
redeemed  by  his  sincerity,  by  a  true  freedom  from 
self-conceit,  in  spite  of  his  assurance  of  mind,  and 
from  any  harshness,  except,  again,  that  which 
new  wine  must  always  have.  Pleasant,  too,  it  was 
to  see  how  the  old  patriotism  of  school  had  only 
undergone  transformation,  like  the  rest  of  him,  and 
was  there  again  in  the  desire  to  evangelise.  Two 
years  later,  I  heard  of  him  as  having  given  the  boys 
at  Uppingham  a  singularl}^  moving  address  on 
religion  and  conduct. 

As  we  walked,  we  reached  the  Welland  and  the 
pool  (it  made  him  tell  me  the  story)  where  he  was 
all  but  drowned ;  and  I  remembered  how,  when  we 
had  bathed,  he  discovered  on  the  bank  a  gypsy 
camp,  and  was  at  once  in  talk  with  the  wanderers 
on  the  greatest  matters.  Next  morning  he  was 
away  across  the  hot  three  miles  to  endow  the  camp 
with  a  Bible,  which  they  promised  him  to  read. 

Where  could  I  leave  off  better  than  with  these 
gypsies  ?  For  I  never  talked  with  him  again,  and 
have  no  further  first-hand  memories  of  him,  except 
a  letter  from  Uganda  describing  some  of  his  doings 
with  a  modesty  and  an  absence  of  colouring  which 
quite  disguised  the  splendid  character  of  his  work 
there ;  a  note  on  his  coming  the  last  time  to 
England  with  the  promise  of  a  visit  to    me  ;  and 


xvi  INTRODUCTORY   CHAPTER. 

another,  dated  from  an  unmooring  ship,  to  wish 
goodbye  and  speak  his  regret  that  his  hard  work 
had  robbed  us  of  the  visit.  So  I  like  to  think 
of  him  last  among  the  gypsies.  Are  they  not  named, 
rightly  or  wrongly,  of  Africa  ?  Is  not  the  little 
scene  a  picture  in  small  of  the  scene  to  come,  of  the 
brave,  whole-hearted,  confident  love  of  his  'bar- 
barian '  brother  in  Christ,  which  has  been  so  echoed 
in  the  wild  men's  love  for  him  ? 

And  yet  that  must  not  be  my  very  last  word. 
For  it  does  not  fall  to  me  to  write  of  the  Missionary, 
but  of  the  boy  of  my  '  old  school.'  So  what  I 
would  say  is  this.  A  chivalrous  boy  from  an  English 
Public  School  is  one  of  the  beautiful  things  in  God's 
world  of  men ;  and,  to  me,  that  knightly  tale  in 
Africa  will  be  most  thought  of  as  the  full  blowing 
of  a  beauty  of  soul  which  I  saw  first  and  shall 
last  remember  in  a  boy  at  Uppingham. 

John  H.  Skrine. 


E\STERV     (TNTRU       S.IU\C\ 


u"     -„  ?£Krs5^d°' 


CHAPTER    I. 

HOME. 

Oh  :  'tis  a  noble  thing  to  trace 
Our  lineage  thro'  a  noble  race  ; 
But  nobler  far  where  lineage  leads 
To  nobler  thoughts  and  nobler  deeds. 

George  Lawrenxe  Pilkington  was  born  on 
Sunday,  June  4th,  1865,  at  35,  Gardiner's  Place, 
Dublin  ;  being  the  fourth  son  of  H.  M.  Pilkington, 
Esq.,  Q.C.,  of  Tore,  Westmeath. 

It  is  no  mere  formality  to  speak,  in  his  case,  of  a 
noble  ancestry,  and  the  lines  with  which  this  chapter 
opens,  taken  from  a  story  in  verse,  by  his  father, 
recounting  the  brave  deeds  of  some  early  members 
of  the  Pilkington  family,  voice  well  the  aspirations 
which  have  been  handed  down  from  generation  to 
generation,  and  which  found  a  response  in  none 
more  truly  than  in  Pilkington  of  Uganda. 

To  come  to  more  recent  history,  the  family  of 
the  Pilkingtons  is  universally  respected  in  the 
country  side  of  Westmeath,  and  amid  all  the 
troublous  times  through  which  the  Irish  landlords 
have  passed,  they  were  able  to  secure  the  love  and 
affection  of  their  tenants.  Though  well  known  as 
an  old  Protestant  family  amid  a  Roman  Catholic 
constituency,  they  have  been   able  to  over-ride   the 


2  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

bitter  prejudices  which  have  so  often  been  aroused 
over  religious  questions,  and  by  their  care  of  their 
poorer  neighbours,  endeared  themselves  to  all, 
Roman  Catholic  and  Protestant  alike. 

George's  father  was  a  most  respected  member  of 
the  Irish  Bar,  from  which  he  has  now  retired,  and 
he  is  chiefly  known  in  connection  with  the  framing 
of  the  constitution  of  the  Irish  Church  in  which  he 
played  a  prominent  part,  and,  for  his  distinguished 
services  in  this  respect,  he  was  awarded  the  Honor- 
ary Degree  of  LL.D.  Trinity  College,  Dublin. 

His  mother  was  a  member  of  the  McDonnell 
family,  so  well  known  in  Ireland,  her  grandfather 
being  the  celebrated  Dr.  McDonnell,  of  Belfast, 
and  her  uncle,  the  late  Sir  Alexander  McDonnell,  a 
scholar  of  the  first  rank,  and  one  who,  as  Resident 
Commissioner  to  the  Board  of  Education  in  Ireland, 
earned  a  brilliant  reputation.  Some  words  written 
concerning  him  at  the  time  of  his  death,  in  the 
Spectator  of  Feb.  20th,  1875,  are  so  striking  in 
their  likeness  to  the  character  of  this  Memoir,  that 
they  are  worth  recording. 

After  a  description  of  his  life  and  work,  the  article 
concludes: — "Those  who  have  enjoyed  his  conversa- 
tion must  despair  of  expressing  its  charms.  Frank, 
enthusiastic  with  the  enthusiasm  of  a  boy,  full  of 
recollection  of  the  men  he  had  known  and  of  the 
statemanship  of  fifty  years,  yet  happiest  and  most 
winning  in  the  region  of  pure  literature,  and  above 
all,  poetry.  With  his  physical  constitution,  his 
abstemiousness  of  habit,  and  his  love  of  air  and 
exercise,   he  seemed  to  bid   fair  for  fourscore  and 


HOME.  3 

ten,  but  bronchitis,  caught  in  a  season  more  than 
usually  deadly,  carried  him  off  at  the  age  of  80, 
leaving  few  like  him  or  approaching  him." 

With  traditions  such  as  these,  it  is  not  surprising 
that  Mrs.  Pilkington  possessed  an  unusual  power  in 
the  training  of  her  children,  to  whose  education  and 
development  she  devoted  herself. 

One  who  was  a  companion  of  George  Pilkington 
as  a  boy,  and  who  shared  with  him  Mrs.  Pilkington's 
teaching,  says  unhesitatingly  that  "his  gift  of 
languages  came  from  his  mother."  It  is  remarkable 
that,  in  teaching  her  children  to  spell,  she  adopted  a 
phonetic  system,  very  similar  to  that  system  which 
George  afterwards  so  strongly  recommended  as  a 
basis  for  the  learning  of  a  foreign  language,  though 
we  are  not  aware  that  he  himself  recognised  the 
likeness  to  his  mother's  teaching. 

His  mother,  and  those  who  knew  him  as  a  child, 
noticed  from  very  early  days  a  remarkable  power  of 
concentrating  his  attention  upon  anything  he  had  in 
hand,  whether  it  was  upon  his  lessons  or  the 
manipulating  of  a  toy.  He  seems  to  have  had 
naturally  a  scientific  bent  of  mind,  rather  than  any 
particular  taste  for  languages,  and  he  was  always 
anxious  to  learn  about  everything. 

He  had  a  profound  admiration  for  his  uncle.  Dr. 
Robert  McDonnell,  of  Dublin,  and  was  particularly 
fond  of  questioning  him  ;  on  one  occasion  when  he 
had  inflammation  of  the  lungs  and  his  uncle  was 
attending  him,  his  mind  was  absolutely  set  on  the 
scientific  aspects  of  his  illness.  "  Now,  Uncle 
Robert,"  he  would  say,  "  I  want  to  know  what  is 


4  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

giving  me  this  pain,"  or,  ''  My  pulse  is  too  quick, 
and  I'm  very  hot,  I  want  to  understand  about  it." 

At  that  time,  his  mother  was  afraid  that,  young  as 
he  was,  he  had  sceptical  tendencies.  He  would 
often  say  when  he  had  been  reading  in  the  Bible 
about  some  miracle,  "  I  don't  believe  a  word  of  it." 
On  one  occasion,  when  they  were  reading  the  old 
story  of  Elisha  and  the  complaint  of  the  sons  of 
the  prophets  that  there  was  "  death  in  the  pot," 
George  vehemently  exclaimed,  "  I  don't  believe 
there  was  death  in  the  pot  either  before  or  after." 

On  another  occasion,  he  came  to  his  mother  v/ith 
the  question,  "  Is  every  word  in  the  Bible  absolutely 
true  ?  "  His  mother's  answer  was  one  that  might 
well  be  remembered  by  others  under  similar  circum- 
stances,— "  The  Bible  is  intended  to  teach  you  to 
serve  God  ;  read  it  for  that  purpose,  and  in  that 
sense  every  single  word  of  it  is  perfectly  true." 

With  the  advice  of  various  friends,  it  was  con- 
sidered best  that  his  attention  should  be  turned  to 
classics,  rather  than  that  his  mathematical  and 
scientific  powers  should  be  too  strongly  developed. 

The  basis  of  his  classical  training  was  well  laid  by 
Mr.  Bassett,  to  whose  school,  in  Dublin,  George 
went  as  a  day  scholar  when  he  was  eight  years 
old. 

Mr.  Bassett  seems  to  have  been  a  schoolmaster  of 
great  power,  and  with  an  intense  belief  in  the 
influence  of  Latin  and  Greek.  He  was  noted  for 
extreme  accuracy,  and  was  a  strict  disciplinarian. 

A  former  schoolfellow  writes  : — "  He  may  be  said 
to  have  been  Mr.  Bassett's  '  white  boy,'  as  he  was 


HOME.  5 

clever  and  hard-working,  and  was  always  well  up  in 
his  work.  He  was  often  held  up  to  us  other  boys  as 
an  example  we  would  do  well  to  follow.  He  was 
by  no  manner  of  means,  however,  a  bookworm.  On 
the  contrary,  he  was  fond  of  football  and  of  all  other 
games,  and  took  an  active  part  in  them. 

He  was  of  a  distinctly  pugnacious  turn,  and  I 
remember  many  a  light  in  which  he  played  a 
principal  part.  I  have  very  vivid  and  distinct 
recollections  of  a  terrible  encounter  I  had  with  him, 
which  ended  in  much  bloodshed.  We  bathed  our 
bleeding  noses  in  the  pond  in  Wilton  Square, 
Dublin,  in  the  presence  of  an  admiring  crowd. 

He  was  chiefly  characterised  by  a  certain  stub- 
bornness of  will  and  a  tenacity  of  purpose  which 
showed  themselves  by  his  hard  work  at  his  books, 
his  pluck  and  doggedness  in  a  fight  or  in  games,  and 
his  determination  in  sticking  to  a  thing,  once  he  had 
put  his  hand  to  it." 

Another,  writing  of  the  same  time,  says:  "  He  was 
always  a  boy  with  great  confidence  in  himself.  Often 
he  would  almost  irritate  us  by  the  way  he  would 
develop  a  line  of  his  own  in  any  game  we  were  play- 
ing.     He  was  always  full  of  spirits." 

Although  born  in  Dublin,  and  at  school  there 
later  on,  he  spent  the  greater  part  of  his  childhood 
at  his  father's  country  seat  at  Tore,  in  the  county  of 
Westmeath.  Here  he  was  in  his  element,  revelling 
in  all  kinds  of  outdoor  occupations.  Here  he  gained 
his  knowledge  of  cooking,  which  was  so  useful  to 
him  afterwards,  and  he  was  known,  with  one  of  his 
brothers,  to  have  improvised  a  rough  oven  in  a  field 


6  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

near  his  home,  so  that  he  was  quite  prepared  for  the 
sort  of  cooking  which  fell  to  his  lot  on  the  march  to 
Uganda  and  elsewhere. 

It  was  in  the  old  home  that  he  gained  from  his 
mother  his  knowledge  of  cows,  which  gave  him  the 
proud  position  of  being  in  later  years  the  chief 
Uganda  dairyman. 

He  was  fond  of  all  kinds  of  animals,  and  had  a 
special  affection  for  pigeons,  of  which  there  were  a 
considerable  number  at  his  father's  home. 

George  was  ready  for  all  kinds  of  games  with  his 
brothers  and  sisters,  and  had  a  leaning  to  anything 
of  a  mechanical  nature.  Electric  bells,  telephones, 
or  little  engines  had  a  fascination  for  himx,  and  he 
was  exceedingly  fond  of  watching  any  kind  of 
machinery. 

At  the  same  time  he  evinced,  even  at  an  early  age, 
a  remarkable  appreciation  of  books,  and  seemed  to 
take  in  the  points  of  a  story.  When  only  ten  years 
old,  his  mother  writes  of  him  :  "  The  boys  are  in 
immense  delight  with  '  Ivanhoe,'  and  I,  as  well 
pleased  to  read  it  as  if  for  the  first  time.  George 
gave  witness  to  the  admirable  writing,  by  springing 
to  his  feet  and  calling  out  with  flashing  eyes  :  '  It's 
not  fair,  it's  not  fair,  three  of  them  had  no  right  to 
come  at  him  at  once,'  when  we  were  reading  about 
Bois  Guilbert,  Front  de  Boeuf,  and  Athelstanc,  all 
attacking  Ivanhoe." 

Thus,  in  his  early  years,  he  gave  evidence  of  the 
chief  traits  in  his  character,  indomitable  persever- 
ance, a  keen  sense  of  what  was  right,  and  a  deter- 
mination to  do  it,  though  without  much  religious 


HOME. 


impression,  and,  withal,  every  inch  a  boy,  with  a 
boy's  faihngs  and  a  boy's  instincts,  only  with  some 
premonition  of  the  man  that  he  was  to  be. 


CHAPTER  II. 

UPPINGHAM. 

A    MESSAGE    FROM     CENTRAL     AFRICA    TO    THE    BOYS 
OF    UPPINGHAM. 

H^rc  from  the  land  of  the  sun,  of  the  blazing  sand  and  the 

plantain, 
Write  1  a  letter  to  you,  my  brothers  afar  in  the  home  land. 
Written  in  metre  strange,  in  ancient  hexameters,  metre 
Not  unfamiliar  to  you  who,  grinding  away  in  your  studies 
Late  on  a  Saturday  night,  fill  up  the  due  complement  weekly. 
Brothers  I  say— not  only  as  schoolfellows — brothers  in  kindred, 
Race,  and   language  ;  and  oh,  how  dear  is  this  brotherhood 

only 
We  who  have  missed  it  long  can  realize.     Brothers  we  have 

here, 
Africans  tried  and  true,  who  love  us,  whom  we  love  ;  united, 
Yes,  by  the  mightiest  bond,  the  surest,  the  dearest,  eternal 
As  is  the  Lord  who  binds  us  in  one.     And  yet  there  is  some- 
thing, 
Something  we  miss,  and  our  hearts  go  imagining,  wondering, 

yearning. 
Conjuring  up  old  scenes,  old  faces,  old  voices,  recalling 
What  we  had  never  prized  till  we  lost  them,  the  blessings  of 

England. 
Rich  inheritance,  known  in   its  fulness  to  those  who  in   far 

lands 
Mourn  at  the  lack  of  love,  at  the  lack  of  joy,  at  the  tedious 
Round  of  a  hopeless  life,  wherein  joy-bells  are  silent, 

8 


UPPINGHAM.  9 

Joy-bells  that  only  wake  at  the  voice  of  the  Lord  of  all  glad- 
ness— 

Noisy,  but  joyless  mirth,  discordant,  meaningless,  aimless, 

Empty  cackling  of  geese  as  they  splash  in  the  mud  of  the 
horsepond ; 

Not  the  full-throated  hymn,  the  melody  born  of  the  woodlands, 

Born  of  freedom  and  joy  welling  up  at  the  bidding  of  nature. 

While  pure  streams  spontaneous  sing  pagans  in  harmony  with 
them  ; 

Stagnant  mirth  of  the  world,  that  wots  not  the  joy  of  the 
Ransomed — 

Yet  here  joy-bells  have  waked  that  will  yet  end  the  groaning  of 
ages. 

Ages  of  bloodshed  and  wrong,  of  rapine  and  raiding  triumphant. 

Oceans  of  tears  wrung  out  of  tortured  slaves  ;  that  will  end 
the 

Long,  dark  night,  that  already  have  ushered  in  "  joy  in  the 
morning." 

Thus  I  to  you,  my  dear  brothers  of  Uppingham,  home  of  my 
boyhood, 

Home  that  I  loved,  and  do  love,  and  will  ever  love  ;  where  yet 
a  vision 

Floats  of  a  face  I  know,  whose  frown  was  sore  punishment  to 
me. 

Whose  smile  heaven  :  a  face  where  love  and  wisdom  were 
blended 

With  adamantine  will  ;  his  voice  no  more  through  the  school- 
room 

Rings  harshly  sweet— the  old  man— our  second  founder,  my 
master. 

Master,  so  far  as  to  man  that  title  is  loyally  given. 

You  who  inherit  his  name,  his  work,  his  zeal,  and  his  fore- 
thought, 

You  who  inherit  the  wealth,  the  stored-up  blessings  of  ages. 

Gathered  by  saints  and  apostles,  by  heroes  who  suffered  and 
laboured, 

Won  for  us  freedom  and  light,  the  soul-gladdening  light  of  the 
Gospel, 


10  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

What  is  the  issue  to  be  ?     What  legacy,  say,  to  your  children 
'.Vill  you  bequeath  ?     What  increment  added  ?     What  further 

example 
Yet  of  noble  deeds,  what  self-crucifixion  in  laying 
All  that  you  have,  that   you   are,   at  the  feet  of  a  crucified 

Saviour  ? 
This  my  message  to  you  from  the  land  of  the  sun  and  the 

plantain, 
Borne  from  far  Uganda,  where  blood  of  African  martyrs 
Freely  was    shed    because    they    accepted    Christ's    perfect 

Redemption, 
Took  Him  to  be  their  Saviour  from  sin  and  from  sin's  retri- 
bution ; 
You,  the  Christendom's  heirs,  you  heirs  of  England,  you  sons 

of 
English  martyrs  and  saints,  you  rightful  owners  of  heaven, 
Sell  not,  despise  not  your  birthright,  your  heritage,  heirs  of  the 

ages. 
So  farewell,  and  remember  in  field,  in  hall,  or  in  class-room, 
You  are  in  training  for  deeds  to  be  done  in  the  might  of  the 

Saviour, 
Worthy  the  mighty  past  and    the    glory  whereon  you  are 

builded. 

G.    L.    PILKINGTON, 

C.M.S.,  Mengo,  Uganda, 

Saturday,  8th  July,  1893. 

The  choice  of  Uppingham,  as  a  Public  School,  had 
already  been  made  in  the  case  of  George's  eldest 
brother,  largely  owing  to  the  advice  of  the  late  Dr. 
Phillips,  then  master  of  Queen's  College,  Cambridge, 
Mr.  Pilkington's  brother-in-law.  Since  then,  Mrs. 
Pilkington  had  visited  the  school  and  was  more 
than  ever  satisfied  that  this  was  the  right  school  for 
her  boys. 

The  one  paramount   consideration  which  led  to 


UPPINGHAM.  11 

choice  of  Uppingham  was  undoubtedly  the  great 
reputation  of  Edward  Thring,  who  was  not  only  a 
clever  and  distinguished  man,  but  what  is  much 
rarer,  a  great  headmaster.  What  Mrs.  Pilkington 
thought  of  him  is  well  stated  in  a  letter  to  her 
husband  during  the  time  that  George  was  at  the 
school.  She  writes  :  "  I  am,  every  time  I  hear  him, 
struck  with  how  remarkably  Mr.  Thring  is  one  of 
those  who  '  speak  with  authority.'  I  never  heard 
anything  in  the  way  of  reading,  to  me,  so  fine  as  his 
reading  of  the  Commandments.  Every  vestige  of  a 
thought  '  is  there  anv  other  school  I  should  like 
better  ?  '  vanishes  the  instant  I  hear  him  say  *  I 
am  the  Lord  thy  God,  thou  shalt  have  none  other 
gods  but  me.'  The  intense  force  with  which,  with 
his  whole  being,  he  himself  is  loyal  to  that  God 
comes  out,  and  it  is  a  thing  that,  in  these  days  of 
unsettled  belief,  is  invaluable." 

In  another  letter  from  Uppingham,  Mrs. 
Pilkington  writes :  "  At  three  o'clock  afternoon 
chapel,  we  had  a  beautiful  little  sermon  from  Mr. 
Thring,  about  ten  minutes  long,  on  these  words: 
'  Thy  Kingdom  come,  thy  will  be  done.'  I  rarely 
come  across  anyone  who  expresses  with  such  force 
and  clearness  just  precisely  my  own  opinions  about 
religion  and  education.  What  we  want  for  our 
boy  is  just  precisely  and  exactly  what  he  wants 
for  him.  I  look  with  wonder  at  that  large  chapel 
perfectly  full  of  boys,  and  reflect  that,  personally 
and  by  name  and  character,  that  man  knows  them 
every  single  one.  '  More  than  three  or  four 
hundred     boys,'     he     says,    *  no    headmaster    can 


12  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

possibly  know,  and  he  has  no  business  to  have 
more  boys  than  he  can  know.'  George  says  there's 
not  a  doubt  that  he  does  know  them,  both  in  their 
games  and  their  work." 

George  entered  Uppingham  at  Easter,  1878, 
obtaining  a  scholarship  of  £^0  per  annum,  and  so 
rapidly  did  he  rise  in  the  school,  that,  by  the  end  of 
1879,  he  was  in  the  sixth  form.  That  he  was  a  very 
small  boy  to  be  in  the  sixth  is  shown  by  an  incident 
recalled  by  a  contemporary  of  his,  who  had  assisted 
in  putting  him  into  an  empty  top  shelf  of  the  sixth 
form  room  (the  old  library),  to  remind  him  that, 
though  he  might  be  the  cleverest,  he  was  still  the 
Baby  of  the  Sixth. 

His  house  was  Fircroft,  and  his  first  House- 
master, Mr.  Rawnsley,  speaks  of  him  as  follows  : 
"  He  was  always  a  merry-natured  boy  and  ready  for 
fun,  and  was  a  boy  of  genuine  courage,  always 
ready  to  dare  anything,  and  would  have  been 
pleased  to  lead  anv  sort  of  a  forlorn  hope  at  any 
time  since  I  first  knew  him.  His  ability  there 
was  no  doubt  of  from  the  very  first,  he  always 
worked  well,  and  he  was  always  absolutely  truthful." 

Of  his  first  few  years  at  school  there  is  little  to  be 
said,  except  what  has  been  already  mentioned,  which 
could  not  be  said  of  most  boys,  unless  it  were  his 
steady  application  to  his  work,  and  the  enthusiasm 
with  which  he  entered  into  every  department  of 
work  or  play. 

As  time  went  on,  however,  his  work  began  to  be 
more  and  more  appreciated,  and  it  was  evident  that 
his  was  to  be  a  career  of  more  than  ordinar}/  success. 


UPPINGHAM.  13 

"  This  boy  is  going  to  do  us  credit,  Mrs.  Pilkington," 
was  the  remark  of  Mr.  Thring,  some  time  in  the 
summer  of  1882,  and  even  in  the  previous  Easter, 
Mr.  Thring  had  written  about  him,  "  I  am  exceed- 
ingly pleased  with  his  work  .  .  .  and  if  he,  as  I 
feel  sure  he  will,  continues  steadily  on,  and  stays 
here  his  full  time,  I  feel  absolutely  certain  he  will 
win  a  high  place." 

During  Mrs.  Pilkington's  visit  to  Uppingham,  in 
May,  1882,  she  was  staying  chiefly  with  the  Rev. 
J.  H.  Skrine,  who  became  an  intimate  friend  of  the 
family  and  took  the  greatest  interest  in  George,  who 
was  ever  afterwards  greatly  attached  to  him.  On 
this  occasion,  Mrs.  Pilkington  spoke  to  George 
about  his  future.  She  writes  :  ''  I  told  him  Mr. 
Thring  hoped  and  expected  he  would  distinguish 
himself  at  the  University.  He  was  delighted,  and 
said,  '  Now,  what  do  you  think  of  me  mother  ?  '  I 
thought,  I  wonder  what  you  would  think  of  yourself 
if  I  told  you  the  half  of  what  Mr.  Thring  did  say." 

In  the  same  letter,  Mrs.  Pilkington  speaks  of 
having  told  Mr.  Skrine  that  Mr.  Thring  had 
proposed  that  George  should  stay  on  for  two  years 
more,  and  added,  "  Mr.  Thring  found  him  so 
young."  Mr.  Skrine  answered,  "  Well,  you  see,  he 
is  pretty  sure  to  be  second  in  the  school  next  term, 
that  must  age  him  a  little."  The  complaint  that  he 
was  too  young  seems  to  have  been  the  chief  fault 
that  could  be  found  against  him,  and  his  House- 
master, Mr.  Perry,  complained  that  he  was  too  fond 
of  the  little  boys,  and  allowed  them  to  take  liberties 
with  him  which  they  ought  not  to  take  with  their 


14  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA, 

captain.  This  love  of  boys  he  always  retained,  and, 
even  as  a  Missionary,  he  did  not  lose  a  certain 
amount  of  almost  boyish  enthusiasm. 

For  the  last  two  years  of  his  time,  he  was  captain 
of  his  House,  and  Mr.  Perry  wTites :  "  I  felt  that 
things  were  absolutely  safe  in  his  hands."  He 
continues,  *'  That  he  exercised  a  good  influence  in 
the  school  generally,  and  still  more  in  the  House,  is 
undoubted.  I  may  say  that  I  had  reason  lor 
knowing  that  there  was  a  certain  amount  of  bad 
language  used  in  the  House  soon  after  he  became 
Head.  With  the  help  mainly  of  Pilkington,  I 
believe  we  succeeded  in  stopping  this,  and  Pilkington, 
later,  was  able  to  assure  me  that  for  many  months 
he  had  not  heard  an  evil  word  spoken  in  the  House. 
If  such  words  were  spoken,  it  was  in  secret  corners, 
and  not  where  the  public  opinion  of  the  House 
could  be  brought  to  bear." 

In  October,  1882,  Pilkington  secured  another 
scholarship  of  £^0  a  year,  which  is  thus  announced 
by  Mr.  Thring  : — 

"  Dear  Mrs.  Pilkington, — 

Doubtless  you  have  already  received  the 
notice  of  your  son's  election  to  a  scholarship  in  the 
school  for  two  years.  I  congratulate  you  heartily. 
He  is  doing  very  well,  and  giving  me  much  satis- 
faction. I  think  he  will  be  a  really  successful  scholar. 
With  kind  regards, 

Believe  me, 

Yours  very  truly, 

Edward  Thring." 


UPPINGHAM.  15 

During  the  next  Christmas  Holidays,  he  obtained, 
largely  through  the  recommendation  of  Mr.  Thring, 
a  holiday  tutorship  to  some  boys  at  Windermere. 
Mrs.  Broadrick,  their  mother,  gives  us  the  following 
reminiscences  of  his  stay  with  them  at  that  time  : — 

"  My  first  recollection  of  George  Pilkington  is  one 
winter  afternoon  in  December,  1882,  when  he 
arrived  at  the  Windermere  station  from  Uppingham 
to  commence  his  duties  as  companion  and  tutor  to 
my  three  little  boys,  during  the  Christmas  Holidays. 
He  was  not  more  than  17  then,  and  very  young  and 
fresh  and  bright  he  looked  as  he  stood  there  on  the 
platform  and  introduced  himself  to  us  all.  He  came 
with  the  highest  testimonials.  I  remember  Mr. 
Thring,  the  headmaster,  said  that,  if  we  could  prevail 
upon  G.  L.  Pilkington  to  take  the  charge,  we  might 
indeed  consider  ourselves  most  fortunate.  And  very 
soon  we  found  this  out  for  ourselves.  A  deep  friend- 
ship sprang  up  between  him  and  the  boys.  His 
scholarly  attainments  and  high  position  in  the  school 
filled  them  with  respect,  almost  amounting  to  awe, 
and  his  keeness  for  all  games  and  outdoor  exercises 
was  an  endless  and  most  delightful  resource,  during 
those  wintry  days  and  long  evenings. 

What  struck  me  very  specially  about  him  at  that 
time  was  his  remarkable  power  of  concentration. 
He  put  his  whole  heart  and  soul  into  whatever  he 
undertook  at  the  moment,  both  in  work  and  play. 
If  he  was  reading  to  himself,  no  outside  noise,  or 
chatter,  or  merriment  seemed  to  distract  him  in  the 
least — he  was  completely  absorbed  in  his  book  ;  that 
accomplished,  he  would  fling  it  aside,  rise  up  and  be 


16  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

the  truest  boy  again,  as  eager  in  the  successful 
manufacture  of  small  fireworks  and  balloons  as  if 
that  was  the  highest  object  of  his  ambition.  Tobog- 
ganing down  snowy  slopes,  runs  after  the  harriers 
up  and  down  the  frosty  mountains,  rowing  expedi- 
tions on  the  lake,  merry  games  in  the  long  evenings, 
made  the  holidays  fly,  until,  one  bitterly  cold  day, 
he  caught  a  chill  which  developed  into  a  sharp  attack 
of  pneumonia. 

He  was  ill  for  a  few  weeks,  but  never  was  invalid 
more  cheery  or  light-hearted.  His  mother  came, 
and  how  glad  he  was,  and  how  difficult  it  was  to  keep 
him  properly  quiet.  He  requested  that  there  might 
be  a  special  display  of  fireworks  to  celebrate  his  first 
coming  downstairs,  and  I  can  see  him  now,  laughing 
and  rubbing  his  hands  with  glee  as  he  watched 
through  the  drawing-room  window,  as  the  little  com- 
positions went  off  with  more  or  less  success." 

But  to  return  to  Uppingham,  Pilkington  could  not 
be  called  a  distinguished  athlete,  though  he  took  part 
in  most  kinds  of  sports.  Football  was  more  to  his 
taste  than  cricket,  as  he  considered  it  waste  of  time 
waiting  about  for  his  turn  to  bat. 

He  was  a  long  distance  runner  and  was  keen  on 
paper  chases,  which  gave  opportunity  for  the  testing 
of  his  powers  of  plodding,  which  were  shewn  in  his 
running  as  they  were  also  in  his  work. 

In  his  last  year,  he  was  elected  a  member  of  the 
school  committee  of  games,  a  high  honour  among 
the  boys,  and  he  was  one  of  the  five  out  of  the  nine 
members  who  were  elected  by  ballot  of  the  rest  of 
the  school,   a  thing  which  necessarily  speaks  much 


UPPINGHAM.  17 

as  to  his  popularity.  At  the  same  time  he  was  not 
popular  with  all,  as  Mr.  Perry  writes:  "he  was 
too  uncompromising  for  this ;  he  also  saw  the 
ridiculous  side  of  things  rather  too  keenly,  and  did 
not  hesitate  to  show  it :  boys  don't  like  being 
laughed  at,  even  when  there  is  not  a  trace  of  unkindly 
feeling  in  the  laughter."  At  the  same  time  he  could 
bear  chaff  at  his  own  expense,  and  his  nickname  of 
"  Pilks,"  which  he  bore  at  school,  stuck  to  him 
through  life. 

Another  point  which  Mr.  Perry  mentions  is 
alluded  to  by  very  many  who  knew  him,  and  that 
is  "  his  really  beautiful  and  melodious  reading.  In 
those  days,  Mr.  Thring  made  a  great  point  of  good 
reading,  and  Professor  D'Orsay  used  to  visit  us  for 
three  days,  twice  every  year,  and  every  boy  in  the 
school  used  to  have  to  read  from  the  platform  before 
the  whole  assembled  school.  Prizes  also  were  given 
for  reading,  and  Pilkington  won  several.  He  was 
one  of  the  best  readers  I  have  ever  heard,  both  in 
humorous  as  well  as  pathetic  passages.  Of  course, 
this  was  partly  due  to  his  general  intelligence,  but 
he  had  a  remarkably  sympathetic  and  melodious 
voice,  and  the  touch  of  Irish  accent  seemed  to  add 
to  its  charm." 

His  great  friend,  Mr.  Martineau,  alludes  to  this, 
and  adds,  "  His  voice  and  style  were  suited  to  a 
lady's  part ;  he  was  very  clear  and  refined  in  his 
mode  of  reading.  He  was  also  generally  one  of 
those  who  took  part  in  the  school  plays  given  on 
other  occasions." 

Referring  to  his  aptitude  in  this  respect,  Mr. 
c 


18  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

Skrine  writes  to  Mrs.  Pilkington  to  tell  her  how  well 
George  had  acquitted  himself  at  a  Shakespeare 
reading.  "I  find  George  is  starting  to-day,  and 
will  be  with  you  sooner  than  any  note  can  be,  but 
he  won't  have  told  you,  what  I  can,  that,  in  the 
opinion  of  good  judges,  the  scene  in  which  Portia 
figured  was  the  best  bit  in  the  play.  I  don't  think 
they  are  wrong,  and  am  rather  proud  of  my  scholar's 
distinction  in  this  new  field.  He  has  naturally  a 
very  good  voice,  and  he  put  a  degree  of  feeling  into 
his  part,  which  we  hardly  expect  in  so  young  a  boy. 
I  wished  you  had  made  your  visit  to  Uppingham, 
and  made  it  just  then. 

That  you  may  have  your  due,  I  ought  to  add  that 
one  of  our  audience  told  me  that  the  boy  had  his 
mother's  voice  and  manner.  Well,  it  is,  perhaps,  a 
little  thing  that  his  performance  should  give  the 
hearers  pleasure,  and  do  himself  credit,  but  it  is  not 
a  little  thing  that  he  should  have  the  power  of 
feeling  deeply  what  is  noble  and  beautiful  in 
literature." 

Perhaps  the  most  striking  testimony  to  his  power 
of  effective  reading  was  given  by  a  boy,  who,  in 
telling  of  the  reading  by  Pilkington  of  a  piece 
of  Shakespeare  about  the  putting  out  of  Prince 
Arthur's  eyes,  remarked,  ''there  was  not  a  boy  in 
the  room  who  could  help  blubbing." 

Among  other  prizes  at  school,  he  obtained  the 
H olden  essay,  but  what  was  of  more  value  than  any 
other  was  the  silver  "  Good  conduct  medal,"  which 
he  received  when  leaving,  with  the  inscription,  "For 
good  work  and  unblemished  conduct." 


UPPINGHAM.  19 

Whilst  at  school,  he  was  prepared  for  confirmation 
by  Mr.  Skrine,  and  he  used  for  some  time  to  attend 
a  Sunday  evening  New  Testament  class,  which  Mr. 
Shrine  held  privately  at  his  house  for  a  few  boys. 

No  more  fitting  close  to  the  story  of  his  career  as 
a  Public  School  boy  could  be  given  than  the  words 
employed  by  his  House-master,  Mr.  Perry,  as 
Pilkington  was  leaving  Uppingham.  Writing  to 
his  mother,  he  says,  "  Whatever  happens  to  George 
in  the  future,  and  there  is  every  reason  to  hope  that 
it  will  be  a  worthy  continuation  of  his  beginning, 
the  good  done  by  his  bright  example,  and  manly 
and  consistent  stand  on  the  side  of  right,  can  never 
be  blotted  out.  What  he  has  done  for  our  House 
has  laid  me  and  all  its  well-wishers  under  a  very 
deep  debt  of  gratitude."     And  once  more  he  says, 

"I  do  not  think  I  can  say  anything  more  than  that 
his  loss  to  me,  as  Captain  of  the  House,  seems 
almost  irreparable.  Few  boys,  I  think,  will  have 
left  with  a  fairer  record." 


CHAPTER     III. 


CAMBRIDGE      DAYS. 


In  October,  1884,  Pilkington  came  into  residence 
at  Pembroke  College,  Cambridge,  having  obtained 
a  Classical  Scholarship  there,  and  a  leaving  ex- 
hibition from  Uppingham.  He  was  quartered 
with  other  scholars  of  his  College  in  the  new 
buildings,  and  there  entered  upon  his  University 
course,  which  was  to  have  the  most  important 
influence  upon  his  future  career.  His  first  ex- 
amination was  the  Little-go,  which,  but  for  an 
amusing  incident,  might  have  been  passed  over 
without  notice,  but,  on  his  way  to  Cambridge 
Pilkington  had  lost  his  luggage,  and  in  his  port- 
manteau was  the  classical  author  which  was  set  for 
the  examination.  As  he  had  depended  upon  looking 
it  over  at  the  last  moment,  he  was  obliged  to  go 
into  his  examination  quite  unprepared,  and,  though 
he  was  able  to  do  the  translation  perfectly,  he  was 
absolutely  ignorant  of  the  subject  matter  of  the 
book,  and  so  he  was  ploughed  in  the  Classical  part 
of  his  Little-go ! 

It  must  not  be  thought  from  this  incident  that  it 
was  Pilkington's  plan  to  leave  all  his  work  for 
examinations    until    the    last    moment.       On    the 


20 


CAMBRIDGE    DAYS.  21 

contrary,  he  had  an  intense  horror  of  cramming, 
which  he  had  derived  from  his  teachers  at  Upping- 
ham, who  had  no  sympathy  with  the  modern  craze 
for  results  in  examinations,  but  sought  rather  to 
turn  out  good  men. 

Throughout  his  Cambridge  career,  he  worked 
steadily  about  six  hours  a  day,  and,  as  soon  as  one 
examination  was  over,  he  began  to  work  for  the 
next.  He  always  timed  himself  when  at  work  with 
his  watch  before  him,  so  that  he  knew  how  much  he 
was  getting  through,  but  he  never  sat  up  late  to  work. 

He  had  definite  methods  of  study  which  must 
have  influenced  largely  his  linguistic  work  when  in 
Uganda.  One  of  his  contemporaries  remembers  him 
saying: — "Many  men  who  are  in  for  the  Classical 
Tripos  try  to  read  all  of  every  Classical  author  that 
is  at  all  likely  to  be  set.  My  object  has  been  to  get 
such  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  root  ideas  of  the 
language,  that  I  can  understand  anything  at  first 
sight." 

He  took  part  in  various  forms  of  athletics,  but 
did  not  distinguish  himself  particularly  in  sports ; 
at  the  same  time  he  fully  maintained  his  reputation 
for  energy  and  perseverance  in  whatever  he  took  up. 
He  was  fond  of  walking,  and  did  a  certain  amount 
of  bicycling. 

The  College  debates,  in  connection  with  the 
Martlet  Debating  Society,  engaged  a  good  deal  of 
his  attention,  and  he  was  also  a  member  of  the 
Union. 

When  he  first  went  up,  he  was  very  keen  on 
whist,      which      he      studied      with      the     aid      of 


22  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

"  Cavendish,"  and  he  used  to  have  whist  parties  in 
his  rooms,  probably  in  connection  with  an  Upping- 
ham Social  Club.  A  member  of  this  club  at  the 
same  time,  who  was  at  another  College,  remembers 
playing  a  rubber  in  his  rooms,  but  adds,  "  we 
played  for  love  at  his  wish." 

His  love  of  argument  is  well  illustrated  by  a 
postscript  to  one  of  his  letters,  in  which  he  writes : 
**  Whether  has  the  man  who  draws  first  in  a  lottery, 
or  who  draws  last,  the  best  chance  of  drawing  the 
winning  lot  ?  I  argued  this  question  with  the 
Senior  Mathematical  Scholar  of  our  year  in  this 
College,  and  proved  this  morning,  to  his  satisfaction, 
that  I  had  been  right,  he  wrong." 

It  was  about  the  middle  of  his  time  at  Cam- 
bridge, that  the  great  change  took  place  which 
eventually  led  to  his  going  abroad  as  a  Missionary. 
In  order  to  understand  this  aright,  it  may  be 
interesting  to  give  a  short  sketch  of  a  religious 
movement,  which  at  that  time  was  in  progress  in 
the  University. 

In  the  year  1882,  Moody  and  Sankey  visited 
Cambridge,  and  held  their  memorable  meetings. 
By  many,  the  idea  of  a  comparatively  uneducated 
man  like  Moody  addressing  an  audience  of  under- 
graduates was  ridiculed,  and  their  first  meeting  was 
a  most  uproarious  one.  Moody  gave  his  address  on 
the  subject  of  Daniel  the  Prophet,  whom  he  would 
persist  in  calling  "  Dannel,"  and  when  Sankey  had 
given  a  solo  he  was  encored.  Yet,  by  the  end  of 
the  Mission,  an  effect  was  produced  in  Cambridge 
which  has  never  been  effaced. 


CAMBRIDGE    DAYS.  23 

Largely  owing  to  Moody's  work  in  Cambridge, 
Douglas  Hooper  (through  whom,  later,  Pilkington 
was  led  to  offer  for  service  in  Africa),  was  converted, 
and,  as  a  result  of  Moody's  work  in  London  later 
on,  C.  T.  Studd,  the  well-known  cricketer,  decided 
to  go  out  to  China  as  a  Missionary,  and  it  was  in 
the  early  part  of  1885  that  he,  with  a  party,  who 
have  been  often  spoken  of  as  the  "  Cambridge 
Seven,"  went  out  to  China  under  the  China  Inland 
Mission.  This  party  visited  Cambridge  before  setting 
forth,  and  their  visit  greatly  quickened  the 
Missionary  spirit  in  the  'Varsity. 

It  was  at  this  period  that  the  attention  of  under- 
graduates at  the  Universities  was  being  turned  to 
the  opportunities  for  influencing  boys  and  girls  of 
the  wealthier  classes,  during  their  holidays,  by 
means  of  seaside  services.  Mr.  Edwin  Arrpwsmith 
was  the  leader  in  this  movement,  and  with  him 
parties  of  young  men  from  Oxford  and  Cambridge 
visited  such  places  as  Scarborough  and  Llandudno 
in  connection  with  the  Children's  Special  Service 
Mission,  with  which  Pilkington  was  closely  iden- 
tified on  leaving  Cambridge. 

A  particularly  strong  party  visited  Llandudno  in 
the  summer  of  1885,  including  Sidney  Swann,  of 
the  Cambridge  boat,  and  Tyndale-Biscoe,  the 
Cambridge  cox ;  also  Hector  MacLean,  from  the 
Oxford  boat,  and  Cecil  Boutflower,  who  has  since 
written  a  sketch  of  Pilkington 's  life  for  the  Upping- 
ham School  Magazine.  Wigram,  Carr,  Lewis, 
Paterson,  and  others,  who,  later  on,  went  forth  as 
missionaries  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society,  were 


24  PILKINGTON   OF    UGANDA. 

members  of  this  band,  and  that  happy  month,  spen 
in  one  another's  society  and  in  such  splendid  work, 
had  far-reaching  results. 

One  result  of  this  work  was  that  those  who  took 
part  in  it  were  led  to  see  that  it  was  not  sufficient  to 
bring  the  Gospel  to  bear  upon  the  poorer  classes  of 
society,  but  that  a  great  responsibility  lies  at  our 
door  towards  those  who  have  been  well  called  the 
*'  poor  rich,"  and  who  have  been  greatly  neglected 
as  regards  spiritual  things.  This  led  men  to  see  the 
great  opportunities  which  presented  themselves  at 
the  'Varsity  to  Christian  men  in  seeking  to  win  their 
brother  undergraduates  to  Christ. 

Accordingly,  it  was  decided  to  hold  some  special 
meetings  for  prayer  at  Cambridge,  at  the  beginning 
of  the  October  term,  and  from  these  were  arranged 
a  series  of  meetings,  held  by  undergraduates  for 
undergraduates  in  the  Alexandra  Hall.  Sunday 
after  Sunday,  men  testified  to  the  great  things  that 
God  had  done  for  them.  There  was  nothing  par- 
ticularly remarkable  about  the  addresses,  but  they 
came  from  full  hearts ;  they  broke  down  the  barrier 
of  constraint  which  is  so  often  felt  in  speaking  of 
Spiritual  things,  and  a  great  impulse  was  given  to 
the  work  of  God  in  Cambridge  University. 

Meanwhile,  there  had  come  up  to  Pembroke,  in 
October,  1884,  at  the  same  time  as  Pilkington,  a 
very  remarkable  set  of  men.  Their  work  may  be 
best  described  by  one  of  them,  now  a  Missionary  of 
the  Church  Missionary  Society  in  India.  The  Rev. 
H.J.  Molony  writes: — "I  cast  in  my  lot  at  once 
with    the    most   aggressive   evangelistic   set;    and, 


CAMBRIDGE    DAYS.  25 

perhaps  you  will  understand  why  moderate  men 
felt  it  difficult  to  join  us,  when  I  say  that  four  of  us, 
who  were  nicknamed  in  the  College  '  the  four 
apostles,'  divided  the  fifty-two  Freshmen  of  our  year 
between  us,  and  visited  every  man  in  his  rooms, 
until  we  had  direct  conversation  with  him  on 
Spiritual  matters.  To  whom  Pilkmgton  fell  in  this 
visitation,  I  cannot  remember,  but  very  likely  it 
was  to  Arthur  Klein,  our  leader,  a  deeply  loving  and 
faithful  disciple  of  Christ.  In  the  summer  of  1885, 
we  held  some  meetings  for  our  year,  after  hall,  in 
the  rooms  of  Mr.  H.  T.  G.  Kingdon  (of  Clare),  in 
Silver  Street.  I  think  it  was  at  the  first  (and 
whether  there  was  more  than  this  one  meeting  I 
forget)  to  which  Pilkington  and  other  men  came. 
One  of  us  (perhaps  R.  D.  Bishop,  who  lost  his  life 
by  accident  in  the  summer  vacation)  spoke  on  the 
words,  '  when  I  am  weak,  then  am  I  strong,'  and  I 
well  remember  that  Pilkington  stopped  behind,  and 
I  see  him  now,  as  he  stood  with  his  back  to  the 
fireplace,  and  rated  us  well  for  preaching  such 
nonsense." 

At  about  that  time,  George  told  one  of  his  sisters 
that  Klein  and  his  companions  were  mad,  and  he 
probably  would  have  scorned  the  idea  that  these 
men  could  have  any  influence  upon  him,  yet,  in 
spite  of  their  unwisdom,  as  many  may  think,  and 
the  want  of  tact  which  may  have  been  shown  in 
some  of  their  methods,  it  was  largely  owing  to  their 
instrumentality  that  Pilkington  was  brought  to  that 
great  crisis  in  his  life  which  he  always  referred  to  as 
his  conversion. 


26  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

Letters  written  about  that  time  by  George  to  his 
mother,  describing  this  change,  are  not  to  be  found, 
but,  in  answer  to  a  question  addressed  to  him  by 
the  authorities  of  the  China  Inland  Mission,  in 
November,  1887,  as  to  the  circumstances  and  time 
of  his  conversion,  he  answers,  "Two  years  ago,  I 
beheve,  on  taking  a  Sunday  school  class ;  but  at 
that  time  'I  saw  men  as  trees  walking.'  Ever  since, 
my  eyes  have  been  opening  more  and  more." 
From  his  friends  at  Pembroke  we  learn,  however, 
some  interesting  particulars  of  some  of  the  events 
which  must  have  influenced  him.  Amongst  others 
were,  probably,  some  words  spoken  at  a  very 
extraordinary  meeting  of  the  College  Debating 
Society. 

The  meeting  had  been  called  for  the  arranging  of 
the  papers  which  the  Society  should  take  in,  and  it 
was  the  occasion  when  each  man  proposed  his 
favourite  papers,  and  various  men  took  the  oppor- 
tunity of  ventilating  their  own  hobbies.  The 
Sporting  section,  for  instance,  would  bring  forward 
"  the  Pink  un  "  ;  the  Ritualistic  party,  "  the  Church 
Times,"  and  so  forth. 

Klein,  and  his  followmg,  consequently  decided  to 
make  this  an  opportunity  of  addressing  men  in  the 
College  who  would  not  ordinarily  come  to  an 
evangelistic  meeting.  They  therefore  proposed  the 
"  Life  of  Faith,"  and  Klein  proceeded,  amid  some 
uproar,  to  give  a  ten  minutes  address  in  which  he 
said  there  were  two  classes  of  msn  there  in  that  room, 
those  who  professed  to  be  Christians,  and  those  who 
made    no   profession,    and   then   he   gave  it  as   his 


CAMBRIDGE    DAYS.  27 

opinion  that  those  who  made  a  profession  of  being 
Christians,  were  not  half  so  real  as  those  who  made 
no  profession,  and  that  if  the  former  would  take 
example  from  the  latter  in  the  thoroughness  of  their 
methods,  it  would  be  a  great  thing  for  Christianity. 
Three  other  men  followed.  Brand,  Bishop  and  John 
Mclnnes,  so  far  as  they  could  do  so  amid  the  fre- 
quent interruptions,  and  so  the  meeting  ended. 
Strange  though  it  may  seem,  it  was  probably  from 
this  meeting  that  Pilkington  was  led  to'  see  that, 
though  he  was  outwardly  religious,  his  heart  was  not 
right  in  the  sight  of  God. 

Another  friend,  Murray  Webb-Peploe,  speaks  of 
the  influence  upon  him  of  the  meetings  in  the 
Alexandra  Hall.  He  writes  :  "  There  it  was  that, 
for  the  first  time,  he  was  convinced  of  sin,  and  saw 
himself  to  be  a  lost  sinner  in  the  sight  of  God,  with- 
out hope,  or  peace,  except  that  which  Jesus  Christ 
had  provided  on  His  cross.  I  cannot  say  how  long 
he  was  in  this  state  of  conviction,  but,  I  believe, 
from  his  own  confession,  he  was  unhappy  and 
miserable  for  some  weeks,  '  seeking  rest  and  finding 
none.'  Here,  however,  his  godly  training  stood 
him  in  great  stead  in  his  need,  for  he  knew  some- 
thing of  his  Bible,  and  betook  himself  to  it  most 
earnestl}',  striving  with  prayer  to  God  to  obtain 
guidance  into  the  peace  of  soul  for  which  he  longed. 
I  believe  it  was  in  his  own  room,  in  the  New 
Buildings  of  Pembroke,  that  dear  old  Pilkington  at 
last  found  that  peace  and  joy  of  heart,  which  so 
characterised  him  ever  afterwards.  I  know  of  no 
human   instrument   in   the   matter.        I   believe  he 


28  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

withdrew  himself  into  the  desert  of  lonehness,  as  it 
were,  alone  with  God — and  prayed  until  the  light 
came  direct  from  God  in  His  written  Word  to 
his  soul.  I  cannot  help  thinking  that  this  was  what 
made  Pilkington  such  a  champion  afterwards  for  the 
Truth  of  God  in  the  Bible.  His  change  of  heart,  his 
conversion,  was  not  of  man,  nor  by  man,  but  entirely 
the  work  of  God  the  Holy  Ghost,  to  whom  be  all  the 
glory.  This  one  thing  he  used  to  tell  me,  however, 
that  he  thanked  God  for  his  faithful  friends  at 
Cambridge,  who,  in  his  own  words,  '  would  not  let 
him  alone  '  until  they  saw  the  grace  of  God  working 
in  his  heart. 

From  that  time  onwards,  there  was  no  man  at 
Cambridge  more  energetic  and  earnest  in  seeking 
the  salvation  and  spiritual  welfare  of  his  friends.  He 
attended  regularly  at  the  Sunday  evening  meetings, 
at  the  Alexandra  Hall,  and  almost  invariably,  I 
believe,  brought  men  with  him,  that  they  might,  if 
possible,  share  the  blessing  and  joy  of  heart,  which 
he  himself  had  thus  learnt  to  know. 

He  was  a  teacher  at  the  Jesus  Lane  Sunday 
School  most  of  his  time  at  Cambridge,  but  his  work 
there  became,  after  his  conversion,  a  new  thing 
altogether,  in  that  he  sought  the  definite  salvation 
and  turning  to  God  of  his  class,  as  he  had  not  done 
before.  He  also  joined  enthusiastically  in  the 
College  open-air  services,  in  Barnwell,  on  the 
Sunday  evenings  of  the  May  Term,  and  whether 
it  was  on  such  occasions,  or  when  he  gave  his 
personal  testimony  at  the  Alexandra  Hall,  his 
addresses   always    were   characterized    by  clearness 


CAMBRIDGE    DAYS,  29 

and  definiteness  of  Spiritual  truth  and  personal 
appeal. 

It  was  a  great  privilege  to  work  with  Pilkington. 
His  uncompromising  attitude  in  regard  to  sin  of  any 
kind,  and  his  clear  perceptions  and  definition  of 
salvation  were  truly  helpful  and  encouraging  to 
those  who  listened  to  him.  He  never  hid  his  light 
under  any  pretence  of  a  bushel,  and  it  seemed  to  me 
as  if  he  made  a  special  point  of  telling  his  friends  and 
acquaintances  of  former  days  of  his  newly-found  joy 
and  peace  in  Christ." 

That  this  was  so  is  fully  borne  out  by  an  old 
school  friend  of  his,  who  writes :  "  Though  at 
College  we  were  constant  friends,  in  my  pigheaded 
ness,  when  he  took  to  his  more  serious  line,  and 
would  discuss  religious  questions  in  my  rooms  when 
other  friends  were  there,  I  told  him,  unless  he  could 
avoid  that  subject,  I  could  not  welcome  him  there, 
consequently  he,  for  a  long  time,  would  not  come  to 
see  me.  I  suppose,  feeling  it  his  duty  to  put  for- 
ward his  views  on  every  occasion."  At  the  same 
time  he  adds  that  this  had  no  effect  on  their  friend- 
ship. Of  his  habits,  a  contemporary  writes  : — "  As  a 
matter  of  fact,  though  I  pretty  often  met  him  and 
always  greatly  admired  him,  I  wasn't  very  intimate 
with  him.  I  think  the  very  greatness  and  goodness 
of  the  man,  perhaps,  kept  men,  with  his  high  objects 
and  thoughts,  from  getting  very  near  him.  His 
soul  was  *  like  a  star,  and  dwelt  apart.'  To  know 
him  was  to  condemn  oneself.  I  don't  think,  with 
his  work  and  various  engagements,  he  had  time 
for  the  long  hours  of  idle  talk,  which  may  be  a 


30  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

waste  of  time,  but  enable  men  to  know  each  other 
so  well.  Pilkington  seemed  even  then  to  have 
greater  things  to  occupy  him.  'Wist  ye  not 
that  I  must  be  about  my  Father's  business  ? '  You 
could  not  meet  him  and  not  feel  he  was  different 
from  most  men  in  his  purpose  and  objects.  But 
I  think  I  used  to  be  most  impressed  by  the  great 
happiness  he  possessed.  Another  thing  was  the 
respect  all  showed  for  his  goodness  and  character, 
how  it  influenced  their  conversation  and  behaviour." 

Of  the  change  that  took  place  in  his  life  there  can 
be  no  doubt ;  but,  it  may  be  asked,  what  were  the 
great  truths  which  laid  hold  upon  him,  and  gave 
him  the  rest  and  peace  and  happiness  which  all 
noticed  in  his  life  ?  Of  this  he  shall  speak  for 
himself,  and  two  letters — one  to  his  aunt  and  the 
other   to   one    of  his    sisters — give   us    his    answer. 

Writing  to  his  aunt,  the  late  Mrs.  Phillips,  at 
Queen's  Lodge,  on  March  6th,  1889,  he  comments 
on  a  service  which  he  had  attended  at  Holy  Trinity 
Church,  Cambridge,  whilst  staying  with  his  uncle 
and  aunt,  in  the  following  words  :  "  Mr.  Sholto 
Douglas  preached  about  the  assurance  of  forgiveness 
and  salvation  in  this  world,  showing  that  a  true 
child  of  God  is  not  only  saved  here,  but  may,  and 
should,  know  it.  My  friend,  on  leaving  the  church, 
expressed  much  pleasure  at  the  sermon  ;  and  I,  not 
knowing  the  man  well,  but  believing  him  to  be  a 
Christian,  began  telling  him  how,  when  I  came  up 
to  Cambridge  as  a  freshman,  I  had  been  bitterly 
opposed  to  any  such  belief,  and  considered  it  absurd 
presumption  for  any  man  to  say  that  he  was  saved 


CAMBRIDGE    DAYS.  31 

He  answered :  '  I  should  have  thought  the  same 
before  to-night.'  However,  he  had  seen  from  Mr. 
Sholto  Douglas's  quotations  from  the  Bible  what 
the  true  and  glorious  teaching  there  is.  I  was 
greatly  encouraged  by  this." 

It  was  no  doubt  the  realisation  of  the  great  fact 
of  the  possibility  of  having  real  assurance  of  salvation 
in  this  life  that  gave  to  him  the  peace  and  joy  of 
which  he  so  otten  spoke,  but  there  was  more  than 
that,  and  we  have  a  much  more  detailed  statement 
of  his  position,  in  a  letter  which  George  wrote  to  his 
sister,  in  continuation  of  a  conversation,  as  follows  : 
*'  The  first  thing  (this  is  to  finish  what  I  was  going 
to  say  in  the  'bus)  is  for  a  man  to  realise  that  he  is  a 
sinner,  and  then,  to  desire  to  flee  from  the  wrath  to 
come.  This  is  hateful  to  man's  pride.  '  I  never 
intend  to  be  driven  to  do  right  from  fear :  I  work 
from  love.'  (Just  what  I  used  to  say  when  I  was 
unconverted  and  only  working  from  love  of  self,  and 
when  I  was  converted,  but  in  the  dark,  for  a  year  at 
least.)  Let  a  man  once  see  that  he  is  a  sinner, 
deserving — in  the  past,  in  the  present,  and  for  ever 
(no  matter  how  much  saved),  still  always  deserving 
— to  perish  everlastingly ;  that  in  him  there  is 
nothing,  and  can  never  be  anything,  which  can 
merit  salvation,  then  he  can  say  and  understand : 

I  ask  no  other  righteousness  ; 

I  need  no  other  plea  : 
It  is  enough  that  Jesus  died, 

And  that  he  died  for  me. 

Seeing  that   his   justification   rests   altogether  on 
something   outside   of  himself,   he  can   accept   the 


32  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

words,  '  My  sheep  shall  never  perish  ' ;  seeing  that 
he  can  never  deserve  to  perish  more  than  at  the 
present  moment,  he  can  believe  that  he  is  predesti- 
nated unto  eternal  salvation  before  the  world  began. 
Then  he  can  say  '  Abba  Father,'  indeed,  in  perfect 
and  child-like  confidence.  And  all  this  depends  on 
his  seeing  his  own  sinfulness.  Then  gratitude 
comes  in.  Now  gratitude  is  not  a  power  to  keep  us 
from  sin,  though  many  try  to  make  use  of  it  in  this 
way.  Gratitude  ought  to  send  us  to  the  only  true 
source  of  power  and  victory ;  gratitude  ought  to 
make  us  wish  to  lead  holy  and  consistent  lives,  and 
to  win  others  to  the  Saviour;  but  only  the  Holy 
Spirit  can  give  the  power.  By  preaching  the 
depravity  of  human  nature  ;  by  proclaiming  that  the 
heart  is  desperately  wicked,  deceitful  above  all 
things,  that  there  is  no  difference,  for  all  have  sinned  ; 
that  they  that  are  in  the  flesh  cannot  please  God ; 
that,  except  a  man  be  born  again,  he  cannot  see  the 
kingdom  of  God,  then  men  may  be  brought  by  the 
Holy  Spirit  to  see  their  utterly  lost  and  ruined 
condition:  then  there  is  no  fear  of  their  apparent 
conversion  being  a  mere  passing  whim.  On  the 
other  hand,  by  urging  beyond  measure  the  duty  of 
living  morally,  men  may  satisfy  themselves  by  mere 
moral  reformation. 

You  see,  when  a  man  is  really  converted,  being  a 
new  creature  in  Christ,  '  he  that  is  born  of  God 
doth  not  commit  sin.'  The  new  birth  is  such  a 
reality  that  it  must  produce  fruit.  A  good  tree 
cannot  bring  forth  evil  fruit.  The  new  heart  must 
bring  forth  good  things.     If  we  declare  these  most 


CAMBRIDGE    DAYS.  33 

unacceptable  facts  of  man's  ruin,  and  God's  hatred 
and  wrath  against  sin,  and  certain  and  awful  punish- 
ment of  it — emphasizing  its  awfulness  by  teaching 
that  without  shedding  of  blood  is  no  remission. 

What  can  wash  away  my  stain  ? 

Nothing  but  the  blood  of  Jesus. 
What  can  make  me  whole  again  ? 

Nothing  but  the  blood  of  Jesus. 
Nothing  can  for  sin  atone, 

Nothing  but  the  blood  of  Jesus. 
Nought  of  good  that  I  have  done 
(or  am  doing — such  as  repentance,  prayer,  faith — or  will  do) 

Nothing"  but  the  blood  of  Jesus. 

Once  a  man  sees  the  awful  danger  from  which 
he  has  been  rescued,  he  won't  see  how  close  he  can 
get  to  the  precipice  without  tumbling  over.  He  will 
hate  that  which  so  nearly  ruined  him,  and  which 
crucified  his  Saviour — sin  and  the  Devil. 

Repentance  {fxeTupoia)  means  a  change  of  mind, 
and  doesn't  imply  sorrow  of  necessity,  true  sorrow 
for  sin  cannot  come,  I  believe,  till  after  conversion. 
Regret  for  its  evil  effects  is  quite  possible ;  but 
sorrow,  because  God  hates  sin,  is  impossible  till  our 
heart  feels  the  same  holy  impulses  as  God. 

Repentance  is  as  much — or  a  great  deal  more — 
an  action  as  a  feeling — it  is  an  entire  turning  away 
from  sin  (perhaps  only  mentally,  but  still  an  active 
thing),  because  first,  sin  is  deadly  and  dangerous, 
and  secondly  (when  converted),  because  God  hates 
it. 

To  conclude  what's  been  in  my  mind  all  through 
this  letter,  doubt  of  our  own  acceptance  with  God, 
P 


34  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

of  our  everlasting  salvation,  comes  from  self- 
righteousness  in  the  garb  of  humility.  It  is  because 
a  man  imagines  that  something  in  himself  is 
necessary  to  atone  for  sin,  that  he  doubts  whether 
he  is  saved.     I  stick  to  Leviticus  xvii.  2. 

'  For  I  have  nothing  (and  never  shall)  else  to  plead 
In  earth  or  heaven  above 
But  just  my  own  exceeding-  need 
And  His  exceeding  love.'" 

It  will  be  noticed  that  reference  is  made  in  this 
letter  to  a  time  when,  as  he  says  :  "I  was  converted, 
but  in  the  dark,  as  I  was  for  a  year  at  least."  This 
probably  means  that  he  did  not  at  first  realise  the 
full  privileges  of  the  Christian  life,  nor  the  responsi- 
bilities which  it  entails. 

Towards  the  latter  part  of  his  time  at  Cambridge, 
he  entered  into  all  kinds  of  Christian  work,  besides 
that  of  a  Sunday  School  teacher  in  the  Jesus  Lane 
Sunday  School,  and  especially  helping  in  various 
ways  at  Christchurch,  Barnwell. 

Probably  his  first  experience  of  special  Mission 
work  was  in  connection  with  the  Navvy  Mission, 
and  an  account  of  this  is  given  by  the  Rev.  H.  J. 
Molony.  He  writes:  ''In  the  Easter  vacation, 
1887,  Pilkington  came  with  me  to  conduct  a  Navvy 
Mission  in  Yorkshire.  I  had  had  a  meeting  in  my 
rooms  at  College,  addressed  by  Mrs.  Garnett,  at 
which  he  was  present,  and,  needing  a  companion 
in  the  work,  I  asked  him  to  join  me  and  he 
agreed.  We  stayed  about  a  week  in  a  farm-house  at 
Skipton,    near   which   a    huge   reser  oir   was   being 


CAMBRIDGE    DAYS.  35 

formed  by  damming  a  valley.  We  worked  in  the 
mornings  and  afternoons,  he  at  his  classics  ;  and  at 
midday  we  went  out  and  talked  to  the  men  in  their 
dinner  hour,  and,  in  the  evening,  we  held  Mission 
services  in  a  small  hall  in  the  village,  or  another  on 
the  works.  My  memory  of  him  at  that  time  is  that 
he  wished  to  learn,  and  would  not  take  a  leading 
part,  but  he  gave  addresses  which  were  of  an 
argumentative  evangelistic  character. 

We  had  one  very  definite  conversion  in  the  case 
of  a  lad  named  Billy,  who  decided  for  Christ  as  we 
were  walking  home  one  evening.  We  knelt  down 
and  prayed  with  him  in  the  lane,  and  he  gave  his 
heart  to  God.  He  was  afterwards  an  earnest  and 
consistent  Christian." 

During  the  next  term,  which  was  his  Tripos  term, 
he  took  part  in  the'  open-air  meetings,  which  were 
held  chiefly  by  undergraduates  in  various  parts  of 
Cambridge,  and,  towards  the  end  of  that  term,  it 
was  laid  on  his  heart  to  hold  some  Gospel  Meetings 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  his  own  home.  The  letters 
which  he  wrote  to  Mr.,  now  Dean  Dowse  on  that 
occasion  show  so  well  the  humble  spirit  in  which  he 
sought  to  undertake  such  work,  that  we  give  them 
in  extenso  : — 

"  Pembroke  College, 

Cambridge, 

June  3rd,   1S87. 
My  dear  Mr.  Dowse, — 

A  number  of  Cambridge  men  have,  this 
year,  been  holding  open-air  Evangelistic  Meetings 
on  Sunday  evenings  in  various  parts  of  Cambridge 


36  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

— in  particular,  several  men  of  my  own  College 
(Pembroke)— about  twenty — including  our  Dean, 
have  been  working  in  this  way,  with  the  approval 
and  help  of  the  Vicar  of  the  parish  where  we  hold 
our  meetings.  Having  seen  something  of  the 
blessing  which  can  come  by  means  of  such  work,  it 
has  occurred  to  me  that  it  might  be  possible  to  do 
something  of  the  kind  in  your  parish  next  summer. 
Of  course,  the  first  thing  necessary  would  be  your 
sanction  and  co-operation.  That  is  the  reason  of  my 
writing.  I  believe  I  could  get  several  Cambridge 
men  to  come  over  and  stop  at  Tore,  in  the  Summer 
or  Autumn,  and  take  part  in  the  work.  We  should 
address  ourselves  to  all,  without  distinction  of  creed, 
who  chose  to  listen,  who  do  not  know  Christ  as 
their  Saviour.  Of  course,  I  cannot  promise  that  the 
men  would  come,  and  I  consider  it  wiser  to  ask  your 
opinion  before  definitely  writing  to  them;  in  case  of 
your  approval,  my  next  step  would  be  to  consult  my 
father,  who  knows  and  approves  of  our  work  here. 
Therefore  you  need  not  write  to  him,  or  speak  to  my 
people,  before  you  let  me  know  what  you  think 
yourself. 

I  cannot  believe  that  we  can  be  justified  in 
hiding  God's  blessing  from  those  about  us  by  our 
silence  ;  and,  in  our  poor  country,  how  much  less, 
when  the  knowledge  of  Christ  is  shared  by  so  few  ? 

Hoping  to  hear  from  you  soon, 

I  am. 

Yours  very  sincerely, 

George  L.  Pilkington,' 


CAMBRIDGE    DAYS.  37 

"  Pembroke  College, 

Cambridge, 

Jmie  8th,   1887. 

My  Dear  Mr.  Dowse, — 

I  am  very  thankful  for  your  letter.  So 
far,  the  way  is  made  plain  before  us.  I  can  answer 
for  myself  and,  I  think,  for  any  men  I  ask  to  come, 
that  we  shall  do  all  in  entire  dependence  upon  God, 
knowing  our  own  utter  inability,  and  that  only  so 
can  our  weakness  be  made  strong  ;  we  shall,  I  trust, 
do  nothing  but  lift  up  Christ,  remembering  the 
promise,  and  I  hope  that  everything  may  be  done  in 
a  way  suitable  to  our  solemn  Mission,  and  so 
'  decently  and  in  order.'  We  shall,  I  think  I  may 
promise,  conform  ourselves  to  your  wishes,  as  is 
only  right.  I  do  not  yet  know  whether  obstacles 
may  not  arise;  but  I  am  confident  th^t  all  will  be 
for  the  best.  We  shall  have  done  our  part :  the 
rest  will  be  in  other  hands  ;  so,  be  the  results  what 
they  may,  we  shall  be  satisfied.  Let  us  all,  in  the 
meantime,  give  ourselves  to  earnest  prayer  that  God 
may  both  direct  and  bless  the  whole  undertaking. 

Believe  me, 

My  dear  Mr.  Dowse, 

Gratefully  and  sincerely  yours, 

George  L.  Pilkington." 

It  is,  perhaps,  not  to  be  wondered  at  that,  at  this 
time,  there   was  a  tendency  for  him  to  despise  the 
acquirements  of  mere  knowledge,  just  as,  before,  he 
had  probably  unduly  exalted  it.  ^  For  a  time,  feeling^ 
that    he  had   neglected  the  study   of  his  Bible,   he    ' 


38  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

thought  that  he  should  read  the  Bible  to  the  exclu- 
sion of  all  other  books.  And  he  even  contemplated 
abandoning  his  Tripos  and  going  abroad  as  a 
Missionary. 

~^  Of  this  time,  his  mother  writes :  "  It  appeared  to 
me  at  that  time  that  his  whole  mind  was  absorbed  in 
the  one  thought — his  sins  were  forgiven — he  did  not, 
for  the  time,  see  that  anything  else  w^as  worth 
knowing.  He  felt,  I  suppose,  that  he  had  not 
arrived  at  this  knowledge  by  any  intellectual  process, 
and  so,  got  to  think  intellect  of  little  consequence, 
and  regarded  the  years  spent  in  learning  Latin  and 
Greek  as  absolutely  wasted,  I  tried  to  make  him  see 
that  all  knowledge  was  the  knowledge  of  God,  that 
'  knowledge  rich  and  varied,  digested  and  combined, 
and  pervaded  thro'  and  thro'  with  the  light  of  the 
Spirit  of  God,'  is  what  it  becomes  a  Christian  man 
to  have.  He  could  not  for  a  long  time  see  it,  and 
it  was,  I  believe,  only  in  deference  to  our  wishes, 
that  he  continued  to  work  for  his  Degree."  Having 
decided  to  do  so,  he  steadily  worked  on  for  the 
Classical  Tripos,  and,  in  the  end,  came  out  in  the 
second  division  of  the  first  class  in  the  memorable 
year  when  Miss  Ramsey  (now  Mrs.  Butler)  was 
Senior  Classic,  being  the  only  one  in  the  first 
division. 

During  the  Summer,  the  Meetings  about  which  he 
had  written  to  Mr.  Dowse,  were  held  at  Tyrrell's 
Pass,  Mr.  Murray  Webb-Peploe,  who  was  present 
and  assisted  in  the  services,  writes  as  follows  : — 

"In  organising  our  meetings,  we  were  advised 
not  to  have  open-air  services  on   the  village  green 


CAMBRIDGE    DAYS.  39 

as  we  proposed,  so  our  efforts  were  confined  to 
evening  meetings  in  the  Hall  next  the  Church,  and 
to  personally  visiting  as  many  individuals  as  we 
coald.  The  Rector,  Mr.  Dowse,  was  very  kind 
to  us,  and,  if  I  remember  rightly,  took  the  chair  for 
us  at  more  than  one  meeting.  The  attendances 
were  very  good,  but  we  were  told  that  numbers 
of  the  Roman  Catholics,  forbidden  of  course  to 
attend  the  meetings,  used  to  listen  outside  in  the 
darkness,  and  so  we  arranged  accordingly  for  open 
windows  and  a  loud  voice  when  speaking.  But  it 
was  in  visiting  from  house  to  house  that  dear  old 
Pilkington  shone  to  my  mind.  He  knew  and 
seemed  to  understand  the  people,  and  nothing 
hindered  him  from  witnessing  faithfully  to  the 
consequences  of  sin,  and  the  love  and  power  of  Christ 
to  redeem. 

He  always  had  a  word  in  season  ready,  owing,  no 
doubt,  to  his  continuing  instant  in  prayer,  and  living 
in  conscious  nearness  to  Christ." 

Mr.  Hyslop,  who  was  a  friend  of  Pilkington's 
during  the  latter  part  of  his  Cambridge  career, 
writes  of  him  as  follows  : — 

"  To  the  outward  eye,  '  Pilks,' — as  w^e  used  to  call 
him — was  then  much  what  he  appeared  to  those 
who  saw  him  during  the  last  years.  I  can  recall  in 
my  mind's  eye  the  tall,  stalwart  figure,  the  square 
head,  the  broad  brow,  the  brilliant  complexion, 
and  the  somewhat  feminine  parting  in  the  middle 
of  his  hair.  I  cannot  remember  that  he  showed  any 
marked  vein  of  humour,  such  as  one  had  a  right 
to  expect  from  his  Irish  nature.     But  he  certainly 


40  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

used  to  cause  his  University  friends  much  amuse- 
ment by  his  spirited  advocacy  of  all  articles  of 
apparel  made  on  the  Jaegar  principle.  He  would 
show  us  with  delight  his  patent  ventilated  Jaegar 
boots,  and  explain  their  advantages ;  and  in  many 
a  trudge  through  country  lanes  have  I  accom- 
panied him  when  he  was  testing  the  same  Jaeger 
boots  for  their  African  travels." 

During  the  long  vacation  of  1887,  he  was  at 
Cambridge  for  a  short  time,  reading  Theology.  He 
was  a  member  of  a  class  of  a  few  men  who  were 
studying  the  Greek  Testament  with  the  Rev.  C.  H. 
Prior,  of  Pembroke  College.  Mr.  Prior  remembers 
very  clearly  Pilkington's  unwillingness  to  accept  any- 
thing conventional  in  the  way  of  interpretation.  It 
is  interesting  to  note  here  what  Mr.  Prior  has  men- 
tioned Pilkington's  great  loyalty  to  Edward  Thring, 
his  old  Headmaster,  whom  he  regarded  as  a  hero. 

He  was  up  at  Cambridge  for  another  term,  and 
many  hoped  that  he  would  go  on  and  read  for  the 
Theological  Tripos  ;  among  others,  Mr.  Boutflower 
tried  to  persuade  him  to  do  this.  He  writes  :  ''  I 
remember  urging  him,  with  his  brains,  to  stay  on  a 
year  at  Cambridge  and  read  Theology.  He  asked 
me  if  I  considered  Moody  a  good  Theologian.  I 
said  I  didn't  think  he  had  a  right  to  expect  God's 
blessing  unless  he  made  himself  a  better  one.  But 
nothing  would  shake  his  view  that  he  should  be 
content  if  he  could  do  Moody's  work  with  Moody's 
equipment." 

He  held  to  this  view  at  that  time,  and  at 
Christmas,   1887,  he  finally  left  Cambridge. 


CHAPTER   IV. 


THE    MISSIONARY    CALL. 


Few  men  leaving  Cambridge  have  had  better 
prospects  of  a  brilHant  career  than  those  which 
presented  themselves  to  George  Pilkington.  His 
friends  and  relations  hoped  that  he  would  become 
a  distinguished  schoolmaster,  or  that  in  some  similar 
way  he  would  make  use  of  the  powers  which  he 
possessed,  and  which  had  been  so  successfully  put 
to  the  test  at  Cambridge. 

No  better  indication  of  his  abilities  can  be  gained 
than  by  quoting  some  of  the  testimonials  given  to 
him  when  applying  for  a  mastership  soon  after 
leaving  the  University. 

Mr.  R.  A.  Neil,  Fellow  and  Classical  Lecturer  at 
Pembroke  College,  Cambridge,  writes  of  him:  *'  His 
course  here  was  marked  by  a  steady  and  continuous 
improvement  in  scholarship,  which  is,  I  think,  un- 
exampled in  my  experience.  This  improvement  was 
naturally  due  to  an  honest  and  intelligent  devotion 
to  work,  and  was  fitly  rewarded  by  a  place  in  the 
highest  division  of  the  Classical  Tripos  of  his  year 
in  which    men    were    placed.      His  place  was  well 


42  PILKINGTON   OP   UGANDA. 

deserved,  and  forms  a  sufficient  guarantee  of  his 
capacity  to  undertake  high  school  work.  I  beheve 
his  scholarship  will  be  supplemented  by  a  very  high 
interest  in  his  pupils,  and  that,  if  he  is  appointed  to 
a  mastership,  he  will  have  the  success  to  be  expected 
from  the  combination  of  most  creditable  attainments 
with  a  high  and  vigorous  personal  character." 

At  the  same  time,  Dr.  Verrall,  Fellow  and 
Assistant  Tutor  at  Trinity  College,  Cambridge, 
writes  :  ''  Mr.  G.  L.  Pilkington,  B.A.,  was  my  pupil 
at  Pembroke  College  during  a  considerable  part  of 
his  course  as  an  undergraduate.  He  is  a  good 
scholar  both  in  Greek  and  in  Latin.  His  com- 
position was  always  correct  and  sensible,  and 
improved  steadily  with  time.  Before  he  went  up 
for  his  degree  it  had  become  often  brilliant,  and 
I  quite  anticipated  for  him  the  high  degree  which 
he  actually  obtained. 

All  I  heard  and  saw  of  him  was  to  his  advantage, 
and  I  have  much  pleasure  in  recommending  him  for 
employment  as  a  schoolmaster,  an  occupation  for 
which  I  believe  him  to  be  thoroughly  fit." 
I  That  he  would  have  been  fitted  for  the  work  of  a 
schoolmaster,  his  subsequent  experience  abundantly 
showed,  but  there  had  already  come  into  his  life  a 
conviction  which  he  recognised  as  the  call  of  God 
leading  him  to  devote  himself  to  Foreign  Missionary 
service. 

Some  thoughts  of  this  came  to  him,  as  we  have 
already  seen,  before  taking  his  degree,  but  it  was 
during  his  last  term  at  Cambridge  that  he  first 
offered  himself  for  the  work.     The  Mission  to  which 


THE    MISSIONARY   CALL.  43 

he  made  application  was  the  China  Inland  Mission, 
whose  work  had  been  prominently  brought  to  the 
front  through  the  visit  of  *'The  Cambridge  Seven." 
When  asked  as  to  the  reasons  which  led  him  to 
offer,  he  answered  in  the  following  way :  "  Because 
I  believe  it  to  be  God's  will,  and  I  think  this 
because  the  need  abroad  is  great ;  we  have  a  sort  of 
plethora  at  home,  and  I  am  free  to  go,  and  Mark 
xvi.,  15.  The  need  of  Missions  has  come  before  me 
urgently  for  a  year."  At  the  same  time,  he  wrote 
to  his  parents  asking  for  their  consent.  In  reply, 
his  father  urged  a  delay  of  at  least  two  years  before 
deciding  such  an  important  matter,  and  in  conse- 
quence, although  George  was  accepted  by  the 
authorities  of  the  China  Inland  Mission,  he 
altogether  abandoned  his  project,  saying,  "  What 
such  a  man  as  my  father  does  not  wholly  approve  of, 
cannot  be  right  for  me  to  do."  Thus,  for  the  time 
he  gave  up  his  cherished  plans  and  set  himself  to 
whatever  his  hand  found  to  do  at  home. 

One  more  honour  came  to  him,  after  leaving  the 
University,  in  the  shape  of  the  Winchester  Reading 
Prize,  for  which  he  was  bracketted  first  with  another 
candidate. 

During  1888,  he  was  chiefly  occupied  in  Mission 
work  amongst  boys,  in  connection  with  the  Children's 
Special  Service  Mission. 

Missions  held  by  him,  in  co-operation  with  other 
University  men,  at  Newcastle  and  at  Clifton  are 
specially  remembered. 

One  who  heard  him  as  a  boy  at  Newcastle,  and  who 
from  that  time  became  a  fast  friend  of  Pilkington's, 


"J 


44  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

writes  thus  of  him  :  "  It  was  his  utter  manHness 
that  first  struck  me :  here  was  a  thorough  man 
ringing  true  from  top  to  bottom.  Then  that  he  was 
a  man  of  God  :  one  who  knew  God  and  beheved  in 
God.  So  he  was  a  man  of  power.  How  well  I 
remember  my  first  glimpse  of  him,  eleven  years  ago, 
as  he  came  swinging  round  the  corner — the  great, 
tall,  strapping  figure ;  the  beaming  face — almost  as 
red  as  his  scarlet  tie — his  hat  far  enough  back  to 
show  his  broad  forehead  ;  a  huge,  calf-skin  Bible 
;  under  his  arm,  and  a  club  of  a  walking  stick  in  his 
r  I  hand.     I  never  saw  him  without  that  Bible  !     But, 

alas  !  a  Uganda  calf  ate  it  all  but  a  few  pages  of 
Revelation." 

He  also  visited  Durham  and  held  Meetings  at 
the  Grammar  School,  and,  at  the  same  time,  some 
Meetings  for  young  men.  One  young  man,  brought 
to  Christ  through  his  instrumentality,  wished  to 
follow  him  to  Uganda,  but,  being  prevented  on 
medical  grounds,  is  now  working  in  connection 
with  the  Irish  Church  Missions.  Of  his  Clifton 
Missions  the  Rev.  J.T.  Inskip  gives  us  the  following 
reminiscences  : — 

"  In  July,  1888,  Pilkington  came  to  Clifton  with 
Murray  Webb-Peploe  for  two  weeks'  work.  The 
meetings  were  held  in  a  private  house  in  a  central 
position,  near  Clifton  College.  The  results  were, 
speaking  frankly,  very  disappointing.  The  time 
fixed  was  unfortunate,  as  all  boys,  of  the  class  for 
whom  the  Mission  was  intended,  were  at  school. 
On  Sundays,  the  meetings  were  very  large,  but,  on 
week  days,  very  few  boys  attended.     On  the  second 


THE    MISSIONARY   CALL.  45 

Sunday  morning,  Pilkington  arranged  an  Open-air 
Service  on  the  Downs.  He  knew  that  a  large 
number  of  the  College  boys  would  be  within  reach 
after  their  service  in  the  School  Chapel,  and  he 
hoped  to  attract  some  to  this  service.  I  had  then 
not  long  left  the  College,  and,  unhappily,  courage 
failed  me  and  I  did  not  attend  the  service,  but 
Pilkington  and  several  of  the  workers  persevered. 
He  was  not  discouraged  by  the  apparent  failure  of 
the  Mission.  He  saw  that  there  was  a  grand 
opening  in  Clifton,  and  promised  to  come  again  in 
the  following  January.  In  the  opening  days  of 
1889,  he  began  work  aided  by  a  band  of  young  men. 
Meetings  were  held  every  morning  at  the  same 
private  house,  in  the  afternoon  football  was  played 
on  the  Downs,  and,  in  the  evening.  Drawing  Room 
Meetings  were  held  by  invitation.  Boys  flocked  to 
the  Alission  this  time  and  the  impression  made  was 
deep  and  widespread.  I  can  see  him  now — his  tall, 
upright  figure,  his  solemn  face,  standing  out  against 
the  background  of  dark  wall-paper  in  the  meeting 
room  at  Worcester  Lodge.  Some  of  his  anecdotes 
and  illustrations  are  still  fresh  in  one's  memory.  He 
told  the  boys  how  useless  it  was,  and  how  wearying, 
to  tie  fruit  on  a  fruitless  tree — the  nature  of  the 
tree  must  be  changed.  He  described  himself  as 
being  not  the  same  person  since  his  conversion — in 
fact,  as  almost  literally  someone  else,  a  new 
creation.  He  stated  that  he  had  very  little 
conviction  of  sin  at  his  conversion,  but  that  he  had 
since  found  out  more  and  more  what  sin  really  was. 
And,  in  the  afternoons,  how  heartily  Pilkington  threw 


46  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

himself  into  the  games.  One  dreary  Saturday 
afternoon,  there  was  a  run  to  Wick — a  village 
between  Mangotsfield  and  Bath.  The  way  was 
unfamiliar  and  fog  came,  and  some  of  the  runners 
began  to  lose  heart.  But  Pilkington  was  in  the 
best  of  trim,  and  carried  one  or  two  boys  in  turn 
on  his  back,  breathing  perseverance  into  the  spirits 
of  all,  till  at  length  a  hospitable  reception  and  a 
hearty  meal  at  Wick  Vicarage  put  everyone  to 
rights.  All  too  soon  the  mission  ended,  but  not  a 
few  will  bear  through  life  the  impress  of  Pilkington's 
influence  under  the  blessing  of  God.  Some  few 
who  took  part,  as  boys  or  workers,  have  been  called 
away,  one  worker  (S.  W.  Day)  being  killed  by  an 
accident  when  riding  only  a  month  after  Pilkington's 
death.  The  majority  are  now  scattered  over  the 
world.  But  none  will  forget  the  happy  weeks 
spent  together  under  Pilkington's  leadership, 
or  the  quietness  and  confidence  which  were  his 
strength." 

Rev.  Murray  Webb  Peploe,  writing  of  the  first 
Clifton  Mission,  says: — "At  Clifton,  there  were 
some  five  of  us  Cambridge  men  taking  part  in  the 
mission  to  the  Schoolboys,  but,  to  my  own  mind, 
Pilkington  was  a  head  and  shoulders  above  us  all 
in  his  power  of  speaking  to  boys.  This  capability 
he  proved  himself  to  possess  either  in  addressing 
boys  publicly  or  in  speaking  privately  to  them 
alone.  His  common  sense,  manly,  straight  talks 
were  the  very  thing  for  boys.  He  was,  as  I 
remember  him,  like  a  big,  simple  boy  himself,  and 
as  he  had  a  special  love  for  boys,  I  do  not  doubt  but 


THE    MISSIONARY   CALL.  47 

that  he  helped  many  a  lad  to  clearly  understand  the 
way  of  life  and  salvation." 

During  the  time  that  he  was  working  as  Assistant 
Secretary  of  the  Children's  Special  Service  Mission 
he  was  associated  with  Mr.  Martin  Hall  who  was, 
in  after  years,  his  colleague  in  Uganda. 

As  has  been  already  stated,  Pilkington  felt  most 
at  home  when  he  was  addressing  boys,  and  Mr. 
Murray  Webb-Peploe  adds :  "  Girls  were  never  in 
his  line  at  all ;  "  consequently,  as  he  did  not  find 
sufficient  opportunities  for  mission  work  amongst 
the  boys  alone,  he  turned  his  thoughts  once  more  to 
school-work. 

He  spent  a  few  days  at  Dover  College,  towards 
the  end  of  1888,  and,  of  his  time,  there  a  corres- 
pondent writes  to  the  Morning  Leader :  "  He  was  a 
first-rate  classical  scholar,  at  once  precise  and 
deeply  read,  almost  too  much  so  for  school  pur- 
poses. A  splendid  figure  of  a  man — well  over  six 
feet,  and  broad  in  proportion — he  brought  into  the 
schoolroom  the  imperturbable  sweetness  of  temper 
and  childlike  simplicity — in  short,  the  Christianity 
— that  marked  his  whole  life. 

His  earnest  recognition  of  such  things  as  services 
in  chapel  that  boys  are  only  too  prone  to  scamp, 
the  lonely,  walks,  spent  in  serious  converse,  that  he 
would  take  with  one  or  two  members  of  his  class 
who  particularly  interested  him,  were  thought 
lightly  of  at  the  time.  Perhaps  they  had  a  more  per- 
manent effect  for  good  than  the  Greek  verbs  that  Mr. 
Pilkington   taught   with   such   conspicuous  ability."' 

One    of    these    boys,    now    Rev.    E.    H.    Elwin 


48  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

Acting-Principal  of  Fourah  Bay  College,  Sierra 
Leone,  writes  of  this  time :  "  Pilkington  was  the 
first  man  I  remember  to  speak  of  Christ  to  me 
when  a  boy  at  Dover  College.  He  came  to  take 
the  Sixth,  when  our  Headmaster  was  ill,  in 
November,  1888,  and  I  well  remember  him  taking 
me  to  his  rooms  and  asking  me  to  read  a  paper 
pinned  to  the  wall.  To  my  surprise,  I  read  John 
iii.  16.  He  then  asked  me  if  I  knew  the  verse,  and 
how  glad  he  was  that  I  did  in  some  degree.  He 
stayed  with  us  at  the  College  for  twenty  days,  and, 
throughout  that  time,  kept  asking  boys  to  his  rooms 
to  tea,  and  sought  to  win  them  for  Christ.  I 
remember  what  a  lift  I  got  during  those  days,  and, 
after  nearly  eight  years,  with  what  pleasure  he  heard 
he  had  been  a  help  when  I  reminded  him  at  Oxford, 
about  it  just  before  he  last  sailed  for  Uganda." 

The  summer  term  of  1889  found  him  taking 
temporary  duty  as  a  master  at  Harrow  School,  and, 
of  this  period,  Mr.  Hyslop  says  : — "  he  seemed 
thoroughly  to  enjoy  his  work  amongst  the  boys,  and 
I  can  remember  well  his  telling  me  of  the  various 
expedients  by  which  he  tried  to  make  his  boys 
reahse  that  'life  is  earnest,'  and  to  point  them 
onward  and  upward  to  the  service  of  his  Divine 
Master.  It  is  clear  that  he  must  have  spoken  to 
them  *in  season  and  out  of  season,'  and  I  think  of 
this  as  one  more  proof  of  his  whole-heartedness 
and  devotion  to  the  work  of  God." 

The  Rev.  W.  D.  Bushell,  one  of  the  senior 
masters  at  Harrow,  who  knew  Pilkington  intimately, 
speaks  of  him  as  one  "who  loved  the  school  with 


THE    MISSIONARY   CALL.  49 

singular  affection  from  the  first  day  he  knew  it  to 
the  end " ;  and  certainly  his  correspondence  bears 
witness  to  the  very  warm  place  which  Harrow 
always  held  in  his  heart.  After  Pilkington's  death, 
Mr.  Bushell  was  entrusted  with  the  following 
message  which  was  conveyed  to  the  boys  from  the 
chapel  pulpit  :  *'  Whilst  he  was  at  Harrow,  it 
happened,  by  the  providence  of  God,  that  he  was  led 
to  think  of  the  possibility  of  sudden,  early  death  ; 
he  had  no  fear  of  it,  nor  reason  to  expect  it,  then, 
but  he  wrote  down  these  simple  words  to  leave 
behind  him :  '  If  I  die  here,  tell  the  Harrow  boys, 
especially  those  of  my  own  form,  I  sent  this 
message  to  them  :  'Come  to  Jesus.'  " 

It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  Pilkington's 
plain  and  faithful  dealings  with  the  boys  committed 
to  his  charge  formed  the  subject  of  a  certain 
amount  of  criticism  ;  he  would  have  been  the  last 
to  claim  infallibility  of  judgment ;  but  there  is  no 
question  that  many,  who  were  boys  under  him,  will 
rise  up  to  call  him  blessed. 

The  chief  reason  of  his  success  was  undoubtedly 
the  thoroughness  and  reality  of  his  whole  life.  If  he 
spoke  to  the  boys  about  their  souls,  it  was  not 
merely  to  satisfy  his  conscience  ;  his  whole  heart 
was  in  it,  and  his  life  so  bound  up  with  those 
amongst  whom  he  was  working,  that  their  joys 
were  his  joys,  their  sorrows  his  sorrows.  His 
mother  recalls  how,  one  day,  he  came  home  with  the 
news  that  some  boy  in  whom  he  was  interested  had 
gone  wrong,  and  says  that  he  felt  it  so  keenly  that 
he  sobbed  like  a  child. 


50  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

On  another  occasion,  he  writes  home  to  his  sister 
telHng  the  good  news  of  two  brothers  who  he  had 
reason  to  beheve  had  been  helped  by  one  of  his 
missions.  He  writes:—''  the  younger  one  in 
particular  sees  everything  in  a  new  light — he 
never  saw  before  that  eternal  life  was  a  gift;  he 
sees  it  clearly  and  with  wonder  now — thank  God ; 
moreover,  he  intends  to  stand  up  at  school  for 
Jesus  ;  do  pray  for  him,  for  he  will  have  a  hard  time ; 
he  has  announced  that  he  intends  to  start  by 
burning  his  cribs. — Pray  for  him  and  his  brother." 

On  leaving  Harrow,  in  the  summer  of  1889,  he 
had  in  contemplation  the  possibility  of  acting  as 
Classical  Lecturer  in  Melbourne  University.  One  of 
his  testimonials  was  from  Mr.  Welldon,  who  wrote 
as  follows:  "Mr.  G.  L.  Pilkington,  who  is  a 
candidate  for  a  Classical  Lectureship  in  Trinity 
College  of  the  Melbourne  University,  is  known  to 
me  as  a  man  of  exceptionally  strong  physique,  of 
high  scholarship  and  of  Christian  conviction  and 
character.  If  I  may  base  an  opinion  upon  the 
printed  list  of  qualifications  for  that  responsible 
post,  I  should  say  it  would  be  hard  to  find  a  Lecturer 
who  could  render  more  efficient  service  to  the 
College  than  Mr.  Pilkington.  He  was  my  colleague, 
at  Harrow,  for  one  term,  so  I  have  some  direct 
knowledge  of  his  work.  I  have  a  sincere  respect 
for  him  and  should  be  glad  to  hear  of  the  success 
of  his  present  application. 

J.  E.  C.  Welldon, 

Head  Master  of  Harrow  School." 
Sept.  1 2th,  1889. 


THE   MISSIONARY   CALL.  51 

But  a  wider  sphere  of  usefulness  was  to  open 
before  him  than  a  lectureship  in  Melbourne 
University,  and  it  was  in  November,  1889,  when  he 
was  acting  as  an  assistant  master  at  Bedford 
Grammar  School,  that  the  call  to  Africa  came  to 
him. 

In  order  to  understand  this  aright,  some  reference 
must  be  made  to  the  plans  before  the  Church 
Missionary  Society,  at  this  time,  for  extension  in 
East  and  West  Africa. 

Mr.  Douglas  Hooper  had  returned  from  East 
Africa,  and  Mr.  Graham  Wilmot  Brooke,  and  Rev. 
J.  A.  Robinson,  from  West  Africa,  and,  in  each  case, 
proposals  had  been  made  for  an  advance  on  some- 
what more  simple  lines  than  had  hitherto  been 
deemed  possible,  at  the  same  time  great  stress  was 
laid  upon  the  importance  of  securing  a  small  band 
of  University  men  to  act  as  a  pioneering  party. 

Having  gained  the  Committee's  assent  to  his 
proposals,  Douglas  Hooper  set  to  work  to  find 
companions  to  join  him,  and  the  account  of  his 
stay  at  Cambridge  may  be  given  in  his  own  words. 
He  writes  : — 

*'  After  four  years  in  Africa,  I  went  home  and  had 
the  great  privilege  of  being  at  Ridley  Hall  again. 
Very  many  were  the  talks  enjoyed  there  with  men 
as  to  Man's  claim  on  God  and  God's  claim  on  Man, 
and  one  day,  Ernest  Causton,  now  working  at 
Narowal,  said:  'The  doctors  will  not  let  me  go 
with  you,  but  I  know  someone  who  might,  he  is 
now  a  master  at  Bedford ;  next  Sunday  he  will  be 
my  guest  here   and  I  will  bring  him  to  call  on  you,' 


52  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

and  so  I  met  George  Pilkington,  and  he  told  me 
his  sympathies  were  with  the  China  Inland  Mission. 
Sometime  before,  he  had  wanted  to  go  out  in 
connection  with  that  Society,  but  his  parents  had 
asked  him  to  drop  the  matter  for  two  years.  He 
was  struck  with  the  fact  of  this  time  being  just  up. 
Ttold  him  I  believed  the  C.I.M.  offered  him  nothing 
that  he  might  not  enjoy  in  the  C.M.S.  My 
sympathies  were  then,  and  are  now,  very  much  with 
the  C.I.M.,  and  I  venture  to  think  that  the 
missionary  cause  owes  no  living  man  more  under 
God  than  the  beloved  and  honoured  Mr.  Hudson 
Taylor.  But,  at  Cambridge,  there  was  a  feeling  that 
the  more  deeply  spiritually  taught  men  must  join 
the  C.I.M.  in  preference  to  the  C.M.S.,  and  one 
tried  to  disabuse  minds  on  the  subject.  [From  the 
\  ffirst  Sunday,  Pilkington  never  seemed  to  doubt  once 
^''n^hat  God  had  called  him  to  Africa.^  The  idea  was 
that  a  few  of  us  (the  C.M.S.  limited  us  to  four) 
should  go  to  Ulu  and  live  together  in  as  simple  a 
way  as  possible.  The  people  there  were  many,  the 
district  healthy,  and  the  food  plentiful  ;  but  it  was 
not  to  be,  for,  shortly  before  leaving,  Mr.  Wigram 
asked  one  and  all  to  go  to  Uganda.  Mackay  was 
pleading  for  reinforcements." 

Thus  the  call  came,  and  there  seemed  to  be  no 
doubt  about  it,  but,  before  he  would  give  a  final 
answer,  he  determined  to  put  the  whole  matter 
before  his  parents.  He  had  heard  God's  voice 
before,  as  he  believed,  speaking  to  him  through 
them  ;  he  believed  it  would  be  the  same  again  ; 
accordingly  he  wrote  to  his  father  as  follows  : — 


THE   MISSIONARY   CALL.  53 

"  Pembroke  College, 

Cambridge, 
Sunday,  3rd  Nov.,  1889. 

My  Dear  Father, — 

I  have  a  very  important  matter  to  write 
to  you  about,  to-day.  I  hope  we  shall  all  be  able  to 
see  it  in  the  same  light ;  at  any  rate,  I  am  not 
making  the  mistake  of  not  first  writing  to  you  and 
Mother  about  my  plans,  before  taking  any  step  or 
speaking  to  other  people  with  regard  to  them. 

Douglas  Hooper  (an  old  Harrovian  and  Trinity 
Hall  man)  has  come  home,  some  months  ago,  from 
Africa,  where  he  has  been  working  under  the 
Church  Missionary  Society  for  four  years. 

He  has  come  back  with  a  new  plan  of  work  on 
the  East  of  Africa,  which  he  has  laid  before  the 
Church  Missionary  Society,  and  which  they  have 
accepted  and  promised  to  supply  the  necessaries  for, 
if  he  can  find  the  men.  It  is  to  take  five  or  six 
Cambridge  men  and  make  a  station  on  a  new  route 
to  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  between  Frere  Town  and 
the  Lake :  on  the  principle  of  living  as  simply  and 
as  much  in  native  style  as  is  possible.  There  are 
four  points  in  his  plan  on  which  he  lays  stress : — 

(i.)  Not  less  than  five  or  six  men. — The  deaden- 
ing effect  of  heathendom  is  such  that  isolated  men 
succumb  to  it. 

(2.)  Cambridge  men. — Experience  has  convinced 
him  that  educated  gentlemen  are  absolutely  needed 
for  Africa. 

(3.)  A  new  route. — Virgin  soil — because,  on  the 
old  routes,  the  natives  are  so  habituated  to  the  old 


54  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

system  of  buying  the  chiefs'  favour  by  innumerable 
presents,  that  those  who  go  on  another  princ  iple  are 
not  tolerated. 

(4.)  Native  style. — As  far  cheaper  and  healthier 
— so  he  says  by  experience — and  also  as  the  right 
way  of  getting  into  touch  with  the  natives. 

This  is  the  plan  :  he  has  with  difficulty  succeeded, 
after  some  months,  in  getting  three  men  besides 
himself;  no  others  seem  forthcoming:  he  considers  it 
wrong  to  go  unless  four  at  least  go  with  him.  Most 
men  have  ties  and  engagements  which  make  it  im- 
possible, had  they  the  mind,  to  go.  How  about 
myself?  If  no  one  comes  forward  during  the  next 
week  or  two — he  wants  to  start  in  January — he  will 
give  up  the  plan,  and  the  East  Coast  will  have  to 
be  given  up  to  darkness  still,  for  we  know  not  how 
long,  till  another  opening  like  the  present  occurs. 
Mr.  Wigram,  secretary  of  the  C.M.S.,  told  him  that 
the  Society's  prospects  never  looked  brighter  than 
they  do  at  present  in  Africa :  but  what  if  this 
attempt  be  given  up  ?  What  do  you  say  ?  It 
probably  lies  between  you  and  Mother  and  me 
whether  it  will  be  carried  out  or  no. 

May  I  point  out  some  of  the  advantages  ?  I 
know  you  would  like  me  to  go  out  with  the  C.M.S. 
rather  than,  as  might  happen,  independently,  or 
with  an  undenominational  Society.  I  am  sure  you 
would  be  glad  that  five  or  six  of  us  should  be 
standing  together  and  helping  one  another  to  hold 
fast  by  God  rather  than  singly,  or  in  twos,  or  even 
threes.  Again,  the  climate  is  not  unhealthy  for 
Africa,  as  the  proposed  country  is  high.     I  know 


THE   MISSIONARY   CALL.  55 

how  much  you  and  Mother  wish  me  to  be  a  school- 
master, but  you  would,  I  know,  only  wish  me  to 
be  a  good  schoolmaster;  and,  when  the  mind  is 
distracted  even  by  a  mistaken  idea  of  duty,  it  is  not 
possible  to  produce  good  work.  Supposing  then, 
for  argument's  sake,  that  I  am  best  suited  for  a 
master,  even  so,  would  it  not  be  better  that  I  should 
be  a  good  missionary  {i.e.,  a  missionary  with  his 
whole  heart  in  it)  rather  than  a  half-hearted  and 
dissatisfied  schoolmaster — or,  if  unsuited  to  be  a 
missionary,  should  convince  myself  thereof  in  the 
only  efficacious,  if  unpleasant  manner,  by  a  sad 
experience  ?  Neither  you,  nor  Mother,  nor  anyone 
else  knows  how  little  satisfaction  I  have  had  during 
the  past  two  years — a  continual,  ceaseless,  restless 
apprehension,  '  You  are  not  where  God  wants  you.' 
Suppose  this  is  a  delusion  ;  the  delusion  itself  is  a 
terrible  fact  which  is  spoiling  my  life,  preventing 
me  from  doing  anything  with  all  my  heart,  and 
rendering  me  more  miserable  than  I  can  describe ; 
I  assure  you  this  is  no  exaggeration.  To  get  rid  of 
this,  by  buying  my  own  experience  at  the  price  of 
all  the  pain  of  going  out  and  the  humiliation  of 
coming  back  '  a  sadder  and  a  wiser  man,'  even  so,  it 
would  be  a  cheap  bargain.  But  I  don't  want  you 
to  think  of  my  feelings.  I  want  you  to  consider  the 
need — one  man,  a  Cambridge  man,  is  wanted :  no 
one  is  ready  to  go.  How  few  men  there  are  who 
have  so  little  to  keep  them  at  home ;  don't  mis- 
understand me — in  the  way  of  inclination,  from 
home  happiness  and  friends  and  love,  who  have  so 
much — but  in  the  way  of  duty  ?     No  one  dependent 


56  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

on  me ;  no  one  whom  I  should  leave,  who  would  not 
have  more  than  one  to  take  my  place:  and  the 
blessings  with  which  God  has  surrounded  me, 
though  making  it  harder  to  go,  ought,  from  grati- 
tude, to  be  my  greatest  incentives,  if  He  wants  me 
there. 

I  have  said  all  I  can  say,  and  I  can  only  pray 
that  God  will  guide  us  all  to  see  and  to  do  His 
Will,  which  who  yet  regretted  having  done  ? 
Your  loving  Son, 

George  L.  Pilkington.' 

Two  days  later,  he  writes  to  his  mother  : — 

"Tuesday,  5th  November,  1889. 

Dearest  Mother, — 

.  .  .  I  am  wondering  how  circumstances 
will  strike  you  and  Father  and  all ;  just  two  years 
ago,  if  you  remember,  you  said,  '  Wait  two  years.' 
I  engaged  up  to,  but  not  beyond,  the  time  when 
it  is  proposed  to  start.  Harrow  left,  from  which, 
perhaps,  God  knew  I  would  not  have  torn  myself 
away  to  Africa  ;  my  mind  for  two  years  in  this 
unsettled  condition ;  my  daily  and  hourly  longing 
'  Only  to  know  that  the  path  I  tread  is  the  path 
marked  out  by  Thee.' 

You  don't  know  how  I  long  for  that  knowledge : 
I  believe  I  should  be  satisfied  to  black  boots  if  I 
knew  that  was  'the  right  way,'  by  which  the  Lord 
was  leading  me.  Now,  if  all  these  coincidences 
with  the  definite  need  of  a  definite  sort  of  man  for  a 
definite  work  (which,  unless  I  go,  will — I  may  say — 


THE    MISSIONARY   CALL.  57 

be  abandoned)  ;  if  they  strike  you  all  at  home  with 
the  conviction  that  the  Lord  has  called  your  son, 
then  the  last  doubt  will  have  gone,  and  I  will  have 
the  answer  to  my  prayer  for  definite  and  clear 
guidance ;  to  stay  at  home  or  to  go  abroad — mind, 
I've  not  asked  for  guidance  to  go  abroad — but  clear 
guidance  one  way,  that  I  might  knoWj  and  so  DO 
with  a  whole  heart. 

"  Indeed,  if  unuttered  wishes  are  prayers,  I've 
prayed  to  be  allowed  to  stay  at  home.  Anyhow, 
dearest  Mother,  don't  be  unhappy ;  if  I  ^o  go,  it  will 
only  be  in  the  perfect  certainty  that  this  is  my 
*  vocation,'  in  which  case,  what  an  honour  to  be  the 
King's  ambassador — and  if  I  stay  at  home — all  right 
too. 

Your  loving  son, 

G.  L.  PiLKINGTON." 

On  receiving  George's  letter,  Mr.  Pilkington  said 
to  Mrs.  Pilkington,  "  God  has  asked  for  him,  and  we 
must  give  him,"  and  from  that  time  every  help  and 
encouragement  was  given  to  their  son  as  he 
prepared  to  go  forth  to  his  unknown  work  in  Dark 
Africa.     The  following  is  George's  reply  : — 

"54  Midland  Road,  Bedford, 

Wednesday,  6th  Nov.,  1889. 

Dearest  Mother, — 

Thank  you  so  much  for  your  letter,  and 
Father  for  his.  I  am  glad  to  have  the  way  marked 
so  clearly  now.  Not  a  sorrow,  indeed,  dearest 
Mother  ;  and  I'm  sure  we'll  all  see  that  some  day  ; 
but,  for  the  present,  we  walk  by  faith,  not  by  sight. 


58  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

I've  telegraphed  to  Douglas  Hooper,  whom  you 
would  like  immensely.  You'll  tell  people  how  much 
one  man  was  wanted  to  prevent  the  work  falling 
through. 

Pray  for  all  of  us.  One  of  the  men,  Cotter,  of 
Trinity,  who  is  coming,  was  at  Scarborough  last 
summer ;  then  there's  a  Corpus  man,  whose  name  I 

forget. 

Your  loving  son, 

George  L.  Pilkington." 

Having  received  his  parents'  consent,  he  at  once 
entered  into  communication  with  the  Church 
Missionary  Society,  and  after  some  preliminary 
correspondence,  he  wrote  as  follows  to  Rev.  F. 
Wigram,  Hon.  Sec.  of  the  C.  M.  S.,  especially  with 
reference  to  his  call  to  East  Africa. 

54  Midland  Road,  Bedford, 

Sunday,   17th  Nov.,   1889. 

My  Dear  Mr.  Wigram, 

Thank  }Ou  very  much  for  your  kind  and 
sympathetic  letter.  May  I  explain,  if  at  some  length, 
what  I  feel  about  East  Africa  ?  For  two  and  a 
half  years  I  have  felt  the  overwhelming  importance 
of  Foreign  Missionary  work :  during  the  whole  of 
that  time,  I  may  say,  I  think,  I  have  not  passed  an 
hour  without  wondering  whether  I  ought  not  to  go 
abroad.  My  prayer  has  been  for  distinct  and  definite 
guidance — '  only  to  know  that  the  path  I  tread  is  the 
path  marked  out  for  me.'  I  undertook  school- work 
because,  in  spite  of  these  strong  feelings,  I  could  not 


THE    MISSIONARY   CALL.  59 

be  certain  that  I  was  being  called  to  any  special 
foreign  work ;  but  neither  could  I  be  sure  that 
school- work  was  '  the  right  way.'  What  I  longed 
for  was  certainty  that  I  was  going  on  a  path  of  God's 
choosing,  not  mine.  When  Douglas  Hooper  pro- 
posed East  Africa  with  his  party,  a  fortnight  ago,  I 
was  convinced  that  my  prayer  was  answered,  and 
this  conviction  was  immensely  strengthened  by  the 
cordial  assent  of,  first,  my  parents,  and  then  of 
many  others  from  whom  experience  had  led  me  to 
expect  at  least  a  mild  disapproval.  Under  these 
circumstances,  I  feel  so  sure  of  God's  leading,  that 
I  not  only  hope  that  I  may,  but  firmly  believe  that 
I  shall,  be  sent  to  East  Africa. 

Believe  me, 

Yours  very  sincerely, 

George  L.  Pilkington." 

The  most  remarkable  testimony  to  his  fitness  for 
missionary  work  was  furnished  by  the  Master  of 
Pembroke,  who  wrote  : — 

"  I  can  hardly  find  words  sufficiently  strong  to 
describe  his  fitness  for  the  work  which,  for  years,  he 
has  been  anxious  to  attempt.  He  has  the  zeal  of  an 
Apostle  and  Evangelist,  and,  being  a  highly  cultured 
man,  will  be  an  enormous  accession  to  the  mis- 
sionary cause.  I  have  never  had  any  pupil,  who 
has  gone  out,  in  my  opinion,  so  qualified  spiritually, 
intellectually,  and  physically.  There  is  the  promise 
of  a  Hannington  or  a  Gordon  in  him.  He  must  not 
be  too  much  interfered  with.    Allow  him  a  free  hand. 

November  19th,  1889." 


60  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

Pilkington's  preparation  for  missionary  work  was 
different  from  that  which  is  usually  recommended 
for  intending  missionaries,  and,  in  view  of  the  varied 
character  of  missionary  work,  it  is  worthy  of  con- 
sideration if  it  would  not  be  well  for  some  to 
engage  in  educational  work  previous  to  going  forth 
to  the  mission  field.  It  may  seem  remarkable  that 
Pilkington  did  not  seek  ordination.  On  this  point, 
the  Master  of  Pembroke,  preaching  in  the  College 
Chapel  after  his  death,  says  : — 

"With  many  of  you  it  will  not  detract  from  his 
praise  that  he  was  a  layman — that  he  joined  the 
Mission  as  a  layman,  and  remained  as  such.  I 
never  argued  with  him  about  his  motives,  but  I 
think  I  can  fathom  them.  His  mind  was  of  that 
independent  order  that  does  not  easily  submit  to 
dictation — especially  of  an  absent  committee.  I 
made  a  point  of  this,  in  writing  to  the  C.  M.  S.,  that 
they  must  not  worry  him  with  rules,  or  attempt  too 
much  control,  and  that  he  would  do  original  things 
if  he  were  unfettered.  He  was  altogether  unprofes- 
sional, and  you  would  mistake  him  if  you  associate 
any  affectation  or  sanctimoniousness  with  his 
character  and  conduct.  (A  frank,  genial  Irishman 
he  remained  to  the  last,  with  an  overflow  of  spirit). 
This  is  different,  I  know,  from  some  of  our  concep- 
tions of  a  modern  missionary. 

Being  as  he  was,  he  can  be  used  as  an  argument 
for  the  freer  and  fuller  employment  of  laymen  in  the 
Church,  which,  I  am  glad  to  think,  is  gaining  ground 
amongst  us.  We  do  not  now  interpret  Christ's 
command  to  preach  the  Gospel  to  all  nations  to  be 


THE   MISSIONARY   CALL.  61 

only  a  clerical  obligation,  we  recognise  that  His 
Society  is  of  laymen,  and  we  have  ceased  to  describe 
an  intending  clergyman  as  '  one  who  is  going  into 
the  Church.'  That  is  wrong  in  thought  and  ex- 
pression." 

On  December  3rd,  1889,  George  L.  Pilkington 
was  accepted  as  a  missionary  of  the  Church 
Missionary  Society  at  the  same  time  as  Baskerville 
and  Cotter,  all  of  whom  were  destined  for  Eastern 
Equatorial  Africa,  Graham  Wilmot  Brooke  and 
Eric  Lewis  being  accepted  for  the  Niger  on  the 
same  day. 

From  December  3rd,  i88g,  to  January  23rd,  1890, 
the  date  when  the  East  African  party  left  London, 
was  none  too  long  for  the  work  of  outfitting,  and 
for  taking  leave  of  friends,  and  other  preparations 
for  the  journey.  Since  the  plans  for  the  East 
African  party  had  first  been  formulated,  news  had 
reached  England  which  led  to  a  change  in  their 
probable  destination.  The  need  of  reinforcing 
Uganda,  now  that  it  seemed  possible  to  reach  it,  was 
felt  to  be  the  primary  duty  of  the  new  band,  and 
they  were  ready  to  fall  in  with  the  arrangements 
which  were  made  for  them,  their  instructions  being 
to  proceed  to  the  coast  and  to  wait  there  until  the 
way  opened  for  them  to  proceed  up  country. 

The  public  leave-taking  was  a  most  impressive 
occasion,  being  the  first  occasion  on  which  Exeter 
Hall  had  been  taken  for  a  valedictory  meeting  of 
C.M.S.  Missionaries.  Of  this,  a  correspondent  of 
the  Church  Missionary  Intelligencer,  now  a  member 
of  the  editorial  staff,  wrote  : — 


62  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

"  It  was  a  bold  experiment  to  engage  Exeter  Hall 
for  a  Farewell  Meeting  to  the  band  of  missionaries 
set  apart  for  Africa,  but  it  was  a  venture  more  than 
justified  by  its  success.  On  the  evening  of  January 
20th,  the  doors  were  besieged  as  at  the  Annual 
Meeting  of  the  Society,  and,  when  they  were  thrown 
open,  the  crowd  surged  into  the  great  hall.  Many 
of  the  features  of  an  Annual  Meeting  of  even  more 
than  usual  interest  were  there — the  room  full  to  the 
back  of  the  gallery  and  the  furthest  corner  of  the 
great  platform ;  gangways  crowded  with  people 
unable  to  obtain  seats ;  and  well-known  faces  to  be 
seen  on  every  side.  We  were  especially  pleased  to 
welcome  representatives  of  other  Missions,  such  as 
Mr.  James  Mathieson,  Mr.  Hudson  Taylor,  and  Dr. 
Pierson  of  Philadelphia ;  and  also  sixty  Cambridge 
undergraduates,  who  had  come  up  in  a  body  with 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Moule. 

One  is  led  to  ask  what  was  the  immediate  cause 
of  all  this  interest.  The  explanation  is  to  be  found 
in  the  striking  character  of  the  missionaries  on  the 
platform.  In  Bishop  Crowther,  we  have  the  only 
non-European  bishop  that  has  been  consecrated 
since  the  days  of  the  early  Church,  and  a  man  whose 
romantic  career  and  long  services  will  always  com- 
mand the  public  attention.  In  some  of  the  younger 
missionaries,  we  have  men  of  marked  individuality, 
of  great  ability,  and  of  still  greater  devotion.  And 
the  novelty  and  danger  of  their  plans  have  attracted 
the  liveliest  interest  of  all  friends  of  Missions." 

There  were  no  long  speeches  at  this  meeting,  but 
each  of  the   male  members   of  the  two  missionary 


THE     MISSIONARY    CALL.  63 

parties  proceeding  to  East  and  West  Africa,  rose,  one 
after  another,  and  either  told  of  the  works  in  which 
they  had  already  taken  part,  or  asked  for  prayer  as 
they  went  forth  for  the  first  time. 

After  the  President  of  the  C.M.S.,  Sir  John 
Ken n away,  had  spoken,  followed  by  the  Rev.  H.  C. 
G.  Moule,  Bishop  Crowther  addressed  the  meeting, 
and,  after  him,  Mr.  Graham  Wilmot  Brooke,  the 
Rev.  Eric  Lewis,  and  Dr.  C.  F.  Harford-Battersby, 
proceeding  to  the  Upper  Niger  with  a  view  to 
reaching  the  Sudan;  the  Rev.  F.  N.  Eden,  the 
Rev.  H.  H.  Dobinson,  and  Mr.  P.  A.  Bennett, 
appointed  to  the  Lower  Niger;  and  the  Rev.  H. 
Tugwell,  now  Bishop  Tugwell,  located  to  Lagos. 
This  formed  the  West  African  contingent.  The 
East  African  party  followed,  consisting  of  Mr. 
Douglas  Hooper,  Mr.  G.  L.  Pilkington,  Mr.  G.  K. 
Baskerville,  and  Mr.  J.  D.  M.  Cotter. 

Mr.    G.  L.    Pilkington    said   he   was   going    out 
because  he  knew  the  Lord  had  saved  him,  and  that  | 
nothing  could  separate  him  from  the  love  of  Christ ; ! 
because  the  Lord's  command  was  laid  upon  him ;  i 
and  because,  since  He  is   King,  we  have  but  to  do  ! 
His  will  and  we  shall  be  safe.     He  had  been  kept,  | 
he  said,  '  with  a  light  heart,'  not  that  he  was  going 
lightly,  for  he  had  never  given  anything  such  care- 
ful consideration.     He  urged  upon  those  present  to 
forestall   the   coming   of   Christ   by   accepting    His 
salvation  and  by  doing  Him  service." 

A  little  incident  connected  with  this  meeting  is 
recorded  by  a  friend  of  his,  the  Rev.  R.  S.  Heywood, 
now  a  Missionary  in  India.     Mr.  Heywood  writes  : 


64  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA 

"  At  his  first  dismissal  meeting  at  Exeter  Hall,  a 
number  of  us  went  up  from  Cambridge,  and  I  was 
glad  to  come  across  him  at  the  bottom  of  the  stairs 
at  the  Hall,  so  as  to  have  a  last  chat.  As  we  stood 
there,  I  noticed  several  people  going  up  and  looking 
with  great  interest  at  him,  some  evidently  pointing 
him  out  to  others.  I  mentioned  this  to  him,  and  at 
once,  with  an  exclamation  Of  distress,  he  asked  me 
to  move  with  him  into  a  more  remote  corner,  where 
he  would  not  be  conspicuous.  This  was  only  one 
instance  of  the  humility  which  all  my  acquaintance 
with  him  showed  was  most  truly  genuine." 

The  last  night  in  England  was  spent  under  the 
hospitable  roof  of  the  Rev.  W.  D.  Bushell.  From 
there,  he  wrote  to  his  mother  as  follows : — 

"  I  am  just  beginning  this  letter  before  going  to 
bed  to-night,  to  finish  it  in  the  morning.  I  can  only 
praise  God  for  His  goodness  to  me  during  the  last 
few  days.  He  has  been  so  with  me  both  here  and 
in  Cambridge.  We  had  3,000  in  Exeter  Hall,  more 
than  50  men  came  up  from  Cambridge." 

Next  morning  he  writes :  *'  Bushell  has  given  me 
a  pedometer  and  several  other  things — he  is  kind. 
It's  all  right.  I've  never  doubted  that  this  is  the 
way  (Rom.  viii.  28)." 

On  the  same  day,  January  23rd,  1890,  the  East 
African  party  left  London  in  the  s.s.  ''Kaparthala," 
and,  after  an  uneventful  voyage,  reached  Frere  Town 
where  they  were  to  wait  till  arrangements  could  be 
made  for  them  to  proceed  to  Uganda. 


CHAPTER    V. 

A    VISIT   TO    KILIMANJARO. 

Not  long  after  arriving  at  Frere  Town,  finding 
that  there  must  be  considerable  delay  before  starting 
tor  Uganda,  Pilkington  accompanied  Mr.  Binns  on 
a  journey  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Kilimanjaro,  of 
which  he  gives  the  following  description  : — 

"Taro,  E.E.  Africa, 

(Half-way  from  Mombasa  to  Taita), 
Sunday,  April  20th,  1 890. 

Seated  on  a  box,  with  two  other  boxes  for  a 
table,  our  porters  squatting  or  standing  all  round, 
just  finishing  their  breakfast  of  rice  and  dried  fish, 
Mr.  Binns,  Secretary  of  the  C.M.S.  for  the  Coast 
districts,  writing  beside  me  on  our  only  little  table, 
ten  o'clock  this  Sunday  morning,  I  am  answering 
your  letters. 

I  want  to  write  a  letter  which  will  give  you 
some  idea  of  what  an  African  Safari  is  like,  and  so 
I  write  to  \'ou  only,  but,  of  course,  you  will  show  it 
to  the  rest.  If  I  tried  to  write  a  lot  of  letters,  none 
would  be  satisfactory.  I  am  keeping  a  diarv,  to 
which  I  shall  refer  now,  and  tell  you  all  that  has 
happened  since   I    left    Frere  Town.      By  the  wa\', 

F  65 


66  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

Hannington  came  this  way,  as  he  relates  in  the  20th 
and  succeeding  chapters  of  his  Hfe. 

We  started  at  2.30  on  Monday  from  Frere 
Town  by  boat  up  the  creek,  which  stretches  up  a 
dozen  miles  or  so  inland.  "  We  "  means  Mr.  Binns 
and  his  dog  Nellie,  myself,  Edgar  and  his  dog 
Minnie,  whose  existence  I  was,  till  last  Sunday, 
ignorant  of,  but  on  Monday  he,  Edgar,  presented 
himself  with  a  bit  of  rope  round  the  animal's  neck, 
and  fully  determined  on  having  this  gaunt,  half- 
starved,  and,  to  me,  specially  obnoxious  beast  as  his 
companion  to  Chagga. 

Miss  Ramsay  went  with  us  to  Rabai,  to  take 
back  Miss  Barton  to  Frere  Town  next  day. 

Our  porters  were  to  meet  us  at  Rabai. 

We  sailed  and  towed  up  the  winding  creek, 
sometimes  as  much  as  a  mile  broad,  but  narrowing 
further  up  between  mangrove  swamps,  and,  finally, 
not  more  than  twenty  yards  across.  I  had  a  shot 
at  a  big  water-bird  with  Binns'  gun,  but  missed. 

We  reached  the  "banderini,"  or  landing  place, 
about  5.30,  where  we  waited  till  the  dhow  contain- 
ing our  loads,  i.e.,  tents,  clothes,  food,  rice  for  the 
men,  should  arrive,  to  be  carried  up  to  Rabai  by  the 
forty  men  or  so  whom  we  found  waiting  our  arrival. 
After  a  few  minutes — during  which  we  drank  the 
juice  from  some  "  dafu,"  or  young  cocoanuts,  which 
Binns  had  brought — we  heard  the  panting  of  the 
Company's  Steam  Launch  coming  up  the  creek. 
We  hoped  it  would  be  tugging  our  dhow,  but  it  was 
not ;  it  brought  Crawfurd  of  the  Company,  who,  I 
told  you,  was  to  go  with  us  to  Taita.     We  left  the 


A  VISIT  TO  KILIMANJARO.  67 

men  to  bring  the  loads,  hearing  that  the  dhow  was 
only  just  behind,  and  started  on  our  way  to  Rabai. 
It  was  a  very  good  road  for  Africa,  European-made, 
and  therefore  several  feet  broad — the  native  roads 
just  like  sheep  tracks, — it  was  very  pretty,  through 
undulating,  country  ;  we  saw  lots  of  orchids.  We 
reached  Rabai,  which  is  four  miles  distant,  about 
6.30.  Passing  the  fine  church,  which  it  was  almost 
too  dark  to  see,  we  came  to  Burness's  house,  where 
we  were  kindly  received  by  Mr.  Burness  and  his 
wife.  Miss  Barton,  of  Frere  Town,  was  with  them 
as  I  mentioned  before.  After  tea,  I  went  out  with 
Burness,  but  could  see  nothing  for  the  darkness  but 
fire-flies,  of  which  there  are  thousands. 

Crawfurd  had  not  yet  got  enough  Rabai  men  to 
supplement  his  Zanzibaris  up  to  the  100  he  wanted, 
so  we  could  not  start  till  the  afternoon  of  Tuesday. 
I  walked  round  Rabai  with  Binns  in  the  morning  ; 
it  has  a  population  of  1,500.  At  Church,  in  the 
morning  at  6.30,  there  were  300  or  so  present. 
The  native  pastor,  Jones,  is  often  mentioned  b\- 
Hannington.  The  population  consists  half  of 
Waswahili  and  half  of  Wanyika,  drawn  there  (for 
IJinns  said  he  remembered  when  there  were  not 
more  than  fifty  or  sixty  people),  by  the  security  of 
property  which  a  European  settlement  gives  (we 
heard  of  an  incursion  of  Masai  only  ten  miles  away 
from  Rabai  the  other  day),  and,  let  us  hope,  some 
perhaps,  by  the  Gospel.  It  is,  at  any  rate  for  Africa, 
an  important  place  and  market.  The  Wanyika 
huts  are  very  primitive — from  the  outside  just  like  a 
small  rick  of  damaged  hay — no  windows  whatever  ; 


68  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

the  Swahili  huts  are  very  superior.  I  saw,  in  Rabai, 
an  India-rubber  tree,  from  which  Binns,  in  a  lew 
minutes,  by  cutting  the  bark  and  rubbing  the  sap  on 
his  hands,  made  a  Httle  piece  of  india  rubber. 

We  started  at  2.15,  and  reached  Mwachi  (seven 
miles)  at  4.10.  These  halting  places  are  not  towns 
or  villages  as  a  rule,  but  merely  places  where  water 
is.  The  water  here  (which  Crawfurd  called  splendid) 
was  like  the  water  in  the  pond  at  Tore  to  look  at, 
only  covered  mostly  with  green  stuff.  We  boil  and 
then  filter  all  our  water ;  the  natives  drink  it  neat. 
We  pitched  our  tents  and  set  up  our  bedsteads  for 
the  night.  Edgar  sleeps  on  my  waterproof  sheet  in 
my  tent ;  the  men  sleep  out ;  but  since  that  first 
night,  when  there  was  heavy  rain,  they  have  rigged 
up  little  tents  with  sticks  and  a  little  cloth  or  cut 
grass.  The  first  thing  on  arriving  in  camp  is,  for  us, 
who  have  carried  nothing  heavier  than  an  umbrella 
and  a  monstrous  hat,  to  rest — for  the  men,  who  have 
carried  a  load  of  5olb.  to  6olb.  (sometimes  more), 
generally  on  their  heads,  to  fetch  firewood  and 
water.  Last  night,  I  counted  more  than  a  dozen 
fires  round  about.  The  men  sleep  with  feet  toward 
them,  and  they  keep  off  wild  beasts.  And  now  to 
make  a  digression.  The  contrast  will  have  struck 
you  already.  The  people,  to  whom  we  have  come  to 
preach,  lie  on  the  ground  or  in  a  reed  or  grass  hut, 
at  rice  and  a  bit  of  dried  fish  (two  cupfuls  of 
rice  and  a  handful  of  dried  fish  is  a  day's  ration), 
carry  a  load  under  a  burning  sun  for  ten  or 
twelve  miles  which  I  should  be  sorry  to  carry 
a     mile     in     England,     walk      barefoot     on     the 


A   VISIT  TO  KILIMANJARO.  69 

scorching  ground,  while  we  live  in  grand  houses 
or  tents  (palaces  to  these  people),  sleep  on  beds  as 
comfortable  as  any  at  home,  eat  chickens  (carried  in 
a  box  alive),  preserved  meat,  green  peas  (preserved), 
tea,  cocoa,  biscuits,  bread,  butter,  jam.  Necessary 
for  health,  perhaps,  some  of  these  things  may  be. 
It's  all  very  well  for  people  at  home,  who  know  that 
we  should  have  these  things  and  others  too,  if  we 
had  stayed  at  home ;  but  how  are  these  ignorant 
people  to  know  or  to  believe  that  ?  They  see  we 
live  like  princes  (in  their  eyes)  ;  they  cannot  but 
believe  that  it  is  for  these  luxuries  we  come  here  : 
they're  not  luxuries  at  home,  at  least,  nothing  like 
to  the  same  extent.  Now  my  feeling  at  the  present 
moment  is  that,  if  it  is  not  possible,  or  if  there  is 
not  a  prospect  of  its  becoming  possible,  to  live  ver\ 
differently,  we  might  almost  as  well  be  at  home. 
Don't  think  I'm  complaining  of  anything  or  any- 
one. I  enjoy  these  things  and  with  a  clear  con- 
science at  present :  the  roast  chicken  we  had  the  other 
night  was  very  good  !  so  were  the  peas  !  and  I  sleep 
on  my  comfortable  bed  as  well  as  if  I  \Nere  at  home  : 
but  I  stick  to  what  Fnc  said,  and  say  what  I  think. 
It's  no  good  coming  out  here  unless  we  persuade 
these  people  (not  people  at  home)  that  we've  come 
out  for  something  that  is  not  for  our  own  comfort, 
nor  profit,  nor  sport  ;  and,  to  do  so  successfully,  it 
may  be  ncccssaiy  to  do  things  which  would  other- 
wise be  foolish  and  wrong.  However,  don't  be 
frightened.  I  take  tremendous  care  of  my  health, 
and  mean  to  do  so.  One  more  remark  about  above 
subject — our  life  ought  to  be  such  as  to  compel  the 


70  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

natives — not  Englishmen — to  ask,  "  What   on  earth 
brings  these  fellows  out  to  live  like  this  among  us  ? 

There  is  such  a  gulf  between  us  already — language, 
character,  thought,  and  religion ;  it  is  terrible  if  it 
is  necessary  to  set  up  another  barrier,  a  physical 
one,  to  point  all  the  others  out  as  by  an  object 
lesson  to  these  children,  such  children  they  are,  I 
think,  and  so  Irish,  so  like  myself,  coming  in  with 
their  loads  after  a  long  march,  singing  and  running  to 
shew  that  they're  not  tired;  taking  the  tool  out  of  the 
w^hite  man's  hand,  when  he  sets  himself  to  some  rough 
work,  saying  that  such  is  not  for  the  likes  of  him,  an 
acknowledgement  of  a  social  distinction  which  you 
will  find  in  Ireland,  but  not  much  in  England. 

We  were  up  about  five  on  Wednesday  morning ; 
pack  all  things  in  great  haste,  drink  cocoa  and 
biscuit,  and  start  at  6.40  (a  late  start — the  sun 
always  rises  at  six,  and  we  ought  not  to  start  later). 
We  reached  Mto  Kajembe  at  9  a.m.  (nine  miles) ;  here 
we  had  breakfast,  pitched  tents,  slept,  etc.,  till  2.30 
when  we  started,  and  reached  Mto  W^a  Munyo  (Salt 
River)  at  a  quarter  to  four  (four  and  three-quarter 
miles).  W^e  stopped  here  for  the  night.  I  had  a 
bath  in  a  portable  India-rubber  bath,  very  delightful ; 
we  saw  a  lot  of  partridges  on  this  and  next  day  ; 
we  have  also  seen  several  vultures.  The  general 
appearance  of  the  country  is  that  of  an  undulating 
(or  even  hilly)  plain,  well  sprinkled  with  small  trees, 
chiefly  mimosa,  occasional  thick,  impenetrable  bush 
— the  soil  is  sand}-,  covered  by  coarse  grass,  as  on 
the  edge  of  the  bog  at  home. 

On    Thursday,    off   at  5.50 ;  we  had   not  got  far 


A  VISIT  TO    KILIMANJARO.  71 

when  the  men  in  front  stopped  and  waited  for  us  to 
come  up,  as  two  splendid  antelopes,  very  dark,  long, 
straight  horns,  big  as  mules,  were  grazing  about  300 
yards  ahead.  We  saw  what  Binns  said  was  a  flowering 
fungus,  and  very  rare.  We  saw  two  small  antelopes 
at  a  place  called  Gora,  perhaps  mentioned  by 
Thomson  or  Hannington.  We  reached  Samburu  at 
8.35,  ten  and  three-quarter  miles  (all  measurements  by 
pedometer,  given  me  by  Mr.  Bushell).  On,  one  and 
three-quarter  miles,  in  the  afternoon,  to  what  Thomson 
calls,  "the  stone  reservoirs  of  Duruma."  A  Duruma 
man  here  asked  why  no  Missionaries  came  among 
them.  Three  of  Crawfurd's  Zanzibaris  ran  off  thi 
day ;  they  had  been  paid  fifteen  dollars  {£2)  in 
advance. 

Left  next  day  at  six ;  went  on,  with  an  hour  for 
breakfast,  to  this  place,  Taro,  twelve  and  a  quarter 
miles,  reaching  this  before  eleven,  the  day  before 
yesterday.  We  then  waited  for  mails  which  arrived 
yesterday  at  4.30.  Forty  of  Crawfurd's  Zanzibaris 
made  their  escape  on  this  last  march  !  Seventeen 
loads  are  missing,  stolen  by  the  men ;  runaway 
porters  generally  leave  their  loads  on  the  road,  but 
these,  Crawfurd  says,  are  a  mere  pack  of  thieves. 
They  were  engaged  for  him  by  a  clerk,  who  got  a  set 
of  boys  to  begin  with,  and  besides,  the  riff-raff  of 
Zanzibar.  His  headmen  accompanied  Stanley  on 
the  Emin  Pasha  relief  expedition,  but  he  doesn't 
know  whether  he  can  trust  even  them.  He  lost, 
among  other  things,  some  most  valuable  papers, 
and  he  is  himself  now  ill  with  dysentery.  The 
mails   arrived  yesterday,  and  with  them  the  news 


72  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

that  Mackay  was  dead !  Since  he  went  to  Uganda 
in  1876,  he  has  never  come  down  to  the  coast.  He 
has  left  us  an  example  of  perseverance. 

Crawford  started  back  this  morning,  carried  by 
four  men,  in  a  waterproof  sheet  slung  on  poles. 

Now  just  a  word  as  to  my  health  ;  I  am  thankful 
to  say  I  am  perfectly  well ;  this  Safari  has  cured  my 
prickly  heat  and  trilling  tropical  rash." 

"  Freie  Town, 

June  17th. 

We  went  on  again  on  Monday.  The  next  place 
where  we  were  sure  of  water  was  forty  miles  away  ; 
so  we  had  to  push  on.  We  found  some  water,  as  a 
matter  of  fact,  about  half-way,  but  it  didn't  help  us 
much,  as  we  only  rested  a  little  time,  while  the  men 
re-filled  their  gourds,  dried,  in  which  they  carry 
water.  We  walked  seven-and-a-half  hours  on 
Monday,  and  then  slept  without  water,  i.e.,  at  a 
place  where  there  was  no  water,  and  without  tents. 
Off  again  at  5.20  a.m.,  still  dark,  four-and-a-half 
hours'  of  hard  walking,  such  a  crooked  road,  ending 
up  a  steep  hill ;  under  a  blazing  sun,  we  at  last 
reached  the  hill  of  Maungu.  (I  forgot  to  explain  why 
this  letter  was  delayed.  Three  weeks  ago  to-day,  I 
wrote  to  Mother  ;  that  evening  the  doctor  sent  me 
to  bed  in  high  fever,  which  continued,  more  or  less, 
for  a  fortnight ;  I  am  thankful  to  say  it  is  gone  now, 
but  I  am  still  fearfully  weak.  We  hope  to  start  to- 
morrow week  for  Zanzibar,  en  voutc  for  Uganda.  We 
like  the  four  new  men  very  much,  and  the  Bishop 
extremely,  which,  I  expect,  I  said  in  my  last  letter). 

At   Maungu,  the  unfortunate  men,  after   arriving 


A  VISIT   TO    KILIMANJARO.  73 

some  time  after  us  with  their  heavy  loads,  had  to 
mount  the  hill  for  water,  a  good  hour's  walk.  It  is 
a  lovely  place,  a  high  pass  between  two  hills,  \\  itli 
a  splendid  view,  filled  with  flowers ;  convolvulus 
creeps  over  half  the  little  trees.  In  the  afternoon, 
Binns  and  I  went  up  to  the  top,  washed  (how- 
delightful),  and  saw  a  troop  of  chattering  monkeys, 
and — Kilimanjaro's  snow\-  head,  far,  far  awaw 
Within  the  last  few  months,  Dr.  Meyers,  a  German, 
has  got  to  the  top ;  it  is  almost  20,000  feet  high, 
Mont  Blanc  with  Ben  Nevis  piled  above  it. 

Next  day  we  reached  Taita  (Mt.  Ndara  6,000  feet 
high),  a  C.  M.  S.  station,  just  given  up,  for  the 
present  at  least.  We  saw  the  Missionary  (who  has 
just  left  this  room,  Morris),  after  that  a  splendid  swim 
and  wash,  with  soap,  in  a  mountain  stream,  that 
was  very  full  after  the  rains  they  had  had,  and  filled 
a  fine  rocky  basin,  almost  out  of  my  depth. 

Next  day,  on  again,  five-and-a-quarter  hours'  morn- 
ing walk  to  a  populous  village — Matali — in  a  lovely 
and  well-cultivated  valley  ;  the  afternoon  we  rested  in 
our  tents,  eating  roast  Indian-corn  cobs  and  sucking 
sugar  cane.  The  people  very  friendly.  On  next 
day,  up  and  around  a  mountain — lovely  \iew  of 
Kilimanjaro — and  down  again  into  a  rich  and 
wooded  country.  Then  we  started  across  Seringete, 
the  waterless  track  of  fifteen  hours'  march.  How- 
ever, we  found  a  fine  pool  half-way,  where  we 
camped.  Here,  and  all  this  day,  we  saw  animals  in 
great  numbers — zebra,  ostriches,  eland,  hartebeest, 
vultures,  giraffes,  and  buffaloes — very  dangerous 
beasts,    (not   so   many   tracks   of  lions),    leopards, 


14  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

elephants,  rhinoceros,  and,  of  course,  hyenas  howHng 
every  night.  We  have  them  here.  Quails  there 
were  in  endless  numbers,  also  partridges  and  guinea- 
fowl.  The  flowers  are  often  magnificent,  but  I 
can't  describe  them,  and,  except  at  Maungu,  they 
were,  as  a  rule,  so  scattered  that  there  was  nothing 
so  fine  as  a  spring  or  summer  field  at  home. 

Next  day,  Binns  shot  an  Eland  as  big  as  a  cow, 
to  the  men's  great  delight,  for,  of  course,  we  could 
eat  only  a  little  of  it.  We  had  to  camp  on  the  spot 
while  they  cut  it  up  and  cooked  it,  and  gorged 
themselves  all  night  long.  The  cooked,  or,  rather, 
burnt  morsels  they  disposed  of  to  great  advantage  (as 
I  thought,  for  I  wouldn't  have  touched  it)  for  splendid 
bunches  of  bananas  and  plantains  and  sugar  cane. 
This  was  at  Taveta,  a  prosperous  village  below 
Kilimanjaro,  hidden  in  the  heart  of  a  great  forest.  It 
was  fine  making  our  w^ay  under  the  great  trees,  dark- 
ened by  creepers  (not  so  dark,  perhaps,  as  Stanley's 
forest),  till  we  came  to  the  "  gate"  where  you  have 
to  fire  off  guns  and  pay  so  much  cloth  to  get  in. 
These  great  log  gates,  remind  one  of  Irish 
"  gates  "  on  a  huge  scale.  The  "  gate  "  consists  of  a 
huge  pile  of  logs  which  have  slowly  to  be  unheaped 
to  let  you  pass.  Then  through  another  forest,  this 
time  of  bananas — a  beautiful  sight,  with  the  huge 
bunches  of  fruit  hanging  down  everywhere.  We 
spent  a  pleasant  afternoon  and  morning  next  day 
buying  food  and  watching  the  Wataveta.  Then 
we  started  about  one,  but  alas  !  some  non-Tavetans 
had  barred  the  road  by  the  other  gate,  they  wanted 
cloth ;   this  was  an  imposition  we  considered,  so  we 


A  VISIT  TO   KILIMANJARO.  '^5 

came  back,  re-crossing  three  rivers,  either  on 
sHppery,  dangerous  planks,  or  rather  round  poles, 
at  the  risk  of  a  wetting,  or  by  wading  them.  One 
of  the  ''  Elders"'  of  Taveta,  on  our  return,  assured 
us  they  had  no  authority  at  that  gate,  and  advised 
our  taking  another  road.  After  losing  our  way,  and 
having  to  come  back  a  good  bit— three  times  I 
think— at  last  we  really  started  at  half-past  three. 
We  only  got  two  hours  on  our  way  and  had  to 
camp  in  a  bad  place,  where  there  was  no  water. 
Next  evening  we  got  within  one-and-a-half  hours  of 
Chagga  ;  the  men,  who  were  behind,  thought  we  had 
pushed  right  on,  and  camped  on  their  own  account 
We  were  left  with  boys,  cook  and  guide,  no  food,  no 
change  of  clothes,  no  tents,  and  it  was  raining— with 
a  fire,  indeed,  by  which  we  lay— till  the  cook  and 
guide,  who  had  gone  back,  brought  up  the  men  with 
the  loads  which  we  wanted.  Next  day  early,  we 
reached  Chagga." 

The  chief  object  of  this  journey  was  to  interview 
the  King  of  Chagga,  and  to  bring  him,  if  possible, 
to  treat  the  work  of  the  C.M.S.  more  favourably. 
Of  the  interview,  and  of  some  further  incidents  of 
their  visit,  Mr.  Pilkington  writes  : — 

*'The  kingdom  of  Chagga,  where  Mundara,  the 
one-eyed  king,  reigns,  is  a  lovely  spot  on  the  lower 
ridges  of  the  great,  twin-peaked,  snow  mountain, 
Kilimanjaro.  Here  we  found  ourselves  in  the 
presence  of  this  one-eyed,  African  despot. 

The  contrast  was  strange :—'  The  palace,'  more 
like  a  cabin  to  our  eyes  :  the  courtyard,  a  horrible 
quagmire  of  filthy  mud;    and  there  sat,  in  a  full- 


76  PILKINGtON   OF   UGANDA. 

length  shirt — that  ought  to  have  been  white,  but  it 
wasn't — Mundara,  the  dreaded  ruler,  the  ambitious 
conqueror,  whose  evil  fame  reaches  to  the  coast. 
And  another  contrast  :  so  polite  he  was,  his  words 
'  smoother  than  oil,'  and  yet  he  is  the  man  who  has 
exterminated  whole  tribes ;  has  depopulated  mountain 
sides,  killing  many  of  the  people,  and  selling  the 
rest  into  the  miseries  of  slaverx'.  This  is  human 
nature  as  it  is,  before  it  knows  Jesus,  the  Saviour  of 
the  world. 

Mr.  Binns'  words  had  a  good  effect  ;  the 
attendance  of  twenty-one  boys  at  the  Mission 
House  showed  that  the  king  had  withdrawn  the 
opposition  to  that  extent,  at  least.  He  had  been 
under  the  impression  that,  the  boys  once  taught, 
we  should  want  to  carry  them  off  to  the  coast. 

Most  interesting  our  '  safari '  was :  the  natives 
were  sometimes  (as  we  were  told),  so  superstitious 
that,  when  our  missionaries  at  Taita  went  up  to  the 
top  of  the  mountain  for  a  walk,  they  were  un- 
pleasantly surprised  by  a  crowd  of  angry  men, 
armed  with  bows  and  poisoned  arrows,  who  insisted 
that  they  had  gone  up  there  to  make  "  medicine  ' 
to  keep  the  rain  oif !  The  Missionaries'  assurances 
were  at  last  belie\-ed,  and  they  w^ere  allowed  to  start 
homeward,  followed,  however,  when  they  had  gone 
a  little  way,  by  a  shower  of  arrows.  On  the  other 
hand,  at  Taveta,  that  Arcadian  paradise  as  Thomson 
calls  it,  in  the  heart  of  the  forest,  we  found  the 
natives  so  friendly  and  interesting.  Some  of  the 
customs  were  so  odd :  beads  and  cloth  are  the 
money  of  the  country — but  beads,  which  are  greatly 


A   VISIT  TO    KILIMANJARO.  77 

prized  at  Taveta,  are  just  a  shade  too  blue  and  a 
trifle  too  large  for  the  fashion  at  Chagga,  where, 
accordingly,  they  are  valueless  !  How  I  wish  I  had 
had  the  skill  to  depict  the  features  of  the  chief  of 
Matati,  when  Mr.  Binns  induced  him  to  try  his 
bottle  of  smelling  salts  !  At  this  place,  too,  we 
found  a  huge  demand  for  common  salt ;  a  few 
spoonfuls  would  buy  three  fine  sugar  canes,  each 
ten  feet  long.  In  Duruma,  nearer  home,  a  man 
asked  us  why  no  missionary  was  among  them  : 
perhaps  he  only  wished  for  the  temporal  advantages 
which  come  with  the  white  man  ;  but  the  question 
stands,  why  is  it  ?  Because,  if  five  times  as  many 
men  were  at  work  here,  they  could  find  work  to 
spare  in  the  stations  already  occupied. 

A  few  days  later  we  started  back;  we  got  drenched 
for  the  first  four  days  regularly,  and  had  to  sit 
waiting  once,  foodless,  fireless,  in  drenched  and  muddy 
clothes,  lying  tired  on  the  wet  ground,  under  a  sort 
of  improvised  arbour  to  keep  out  the  drizzle,  for 
two-and-a-half  hours  till  the  men  came  up,  with 
hyenas  yowling  round.  A  day  or  two  later, 
one  of  our  boys  walked  with  us  all  the  way, 
down  with  small-pox,  covered  with  the  rash  ; 
he  has  recovered,  though  one  of  Binns'  bo\'5 
caught  it  and  died  here  ten  days  ago.  The  last  of 
the  four  days  on  which  we  got  drenched,  sitting  b}- 
the  fire,  with  the  small-pox  boy  on  the  other  side,  I 
reflected  on  what  the  Greeks  called  the  '  irony  of 
fate,'  that  in  my  coat  pocket  on  the  same  '  safari ' 
should  be  a  letter  of  Mother's  beseeching  me  to 
take   care    of    my    health ;    so  I  do,   but — well,    I 


78  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

shan't  describe  our  return  in  detail ;  we  reached 
Rabai,  after  tremendously  hard  marching ;  on  the 
way  in,  Edgar  said  to  me,  *  Have  you  heard  the 
news  ? ' 

'What  news?'  said  I.  'Mr.  Cotter's  dead.' 
And  so  it  was,  two  days  before. 

And  so  I  have  got  here  again — to  be  laid  up  ten 
days  with  my  foot,  and  then,  just  this  day  three 
weeks  ago,  by  fever  ;  and  I've  not  been  out  yet — am 
very  weak,  but  the  Doctor  says  it's  all  right ;  can't 
expect  to  get  up  one's  strength  at  once  after  a  sharp 
attack  of  fever  ;  and  to-morrow  week,  please  God, 
we  shall  start  for  Zanzibar  on  the  way  to  Uganda, 
the  change  will  do  me  good. 

June  19th. 
We  hear  this  morning  that  the  ship  from 
Bombay,  by  which  we  expect  to  travel  to  Zanzibar, 
will  not  be  here  till  Friday  or  Saturday  week, 
which  gives  me  two  or  three  days  extra  to 
mend  in.  I  have  just  re-read  my  last  mail  and 
proceed  to  answer  one  or  two  things.  You  know 
that  not  only  Hill,  of  Corpus,  but  three  other  men 
whom  we  like  very  much,  have  come  out ;  they  are 
not  Cambridge  men.  By  the  way,  you  say  in  one 
letter  that  I  belong  to  a  superior  race  to  the  Africans; 
do  you  know  I  doubt  it  ?  Physically,  much  inferior, 
except  in  appearance.  I  cannot  notice  that  they 
are  intellectually  inferior ;  inferior  in  knowledge, 
indeed,  because  this  country  provides  them  (as 
the  ancients  said  of  the  golden  age)  of  itself 
with  all  they  feel  the  need  of;  they  are,  therefore, 
indifferent  to  what  we  call  progress,   or  the  know- 


A  VISIT  TO  KILIMANJARO.  79 

ledge  of  nature,  and  the  turning  her  to  our  uses. 
Glad  to  hear  Aunt  B's  interest  in  this  most 
interesting  of  countries.  D's  assertion,  which 
puzzled  K,  is  most  presumptuous.  How  can  any 
man  say  of  a  country,  of  which  four-fifths,  if  not 
nine-tenths,  are  utterly  unknown,  that  there  is  this 
or  that  ?  The  fringe  on  which  his  own  eyes  have 
rested,  he  may  partly  know,  but  the  rest 

June  2oth. 

I  was  much  stronger  yesterday,  and  went  out 
for  a  ride  on  a  donkey  ;  a  splendid  beast ;  to-day, 
I  feel  stronger  again.  The  rest  have  been  terribly 
busy  packing  loads,  all  to  be  made  up  to  70  lbs. ; 
how  would  you  like  one  on  your  head  ? 

By  the  bye,  you  will  be  glad  to  hear  that  to  have 
had  a  severe  attack  of  fever — and  mine  was  a  very 
severe  one — is  considered  a  good  thing ;  in  fact,  the 
doctor  told  me  to-day  that  he  did  not  think  it  likely 
I  should  ever  have  so  bad  an  attack  again. 

June  2ist. 
Douglas  was  ordained  the  other  day  ;  three  of  the 
new  men  are  to  be  to-rnorrow. 

Monday,  June  23rd. 
The   mail    may    be    starting  to-morrow,    so   this 
letter   goes  in  to   be   stamped   to-night. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


THE    LONG    MARCH. 


"Ye  have  need  of  patience  "  is  a  maxim  constantly 
to  be  remembered  by  the  x\frican  traveller.  More 
than  five  months  had  passed  since  our  party  left 
England,  and  it  was  only  after  this  long  delay  that 
they  were  able  to  start  on  their  long  journey. 

Pilkington  describes  the  first  stage  of  their  journey 
in  the  following  letter  : — 

"  Criterion  Hotel, 

Zanzibar 
Wednesday,  July  9th,  1890. 

Here  we  are,  started  at  last,  I  am  glad  to  say.  We 
left  Frere  Town  at  3  p.m.,  on  Monday  ;  after  a  little 
tossing  about,  and  a  night  on  deck  (we  travelled  as 
deck  passengers),  we  got  here  at  10.30  a.m.  yester- 
day, and,  since  then,  I  have  been  resting,  and  hope  to 
do  so  till  early  to-morrow  morning,  when  we  are  to 
leave  for  Saadani,  by  H.M.S.  '  Redbreast,'  and 
start,  I  expect,  with  Stokes  next  day.  You'll  under- 
stand why  I  need  resting,  when  I  tell  you  all  the 
news.  It  has  been  w^onderful  how  God  has  brought 
us  all  (except  one,  and  there  are  four  in  his  place)  to 
the  start.  About  a  fortnight  ago,  I  began  to  feel 
something    like    myself;    but    Douglas    and    Mrs, 


THE    LONG    MARCIL  PA 

Hooper  bci^an  to  be  uilin;;,  Dou-las  with  fever,  .niJ 
Mrs.  Hooper  with  overwork  :  it  would  h:i\e  j^^reatly 
increased  tlic  hardness  of  leavin*^'  one  another  had 
either  been  ilL  Well,  they  both  reco\'ered  before 
the  end  of  last  week — worn  out  a  ,i;ood  deal  indeecL 
but  neither  ill.  Hnt  witli  myself  it  is  e\cn  niort- 
striking:  mv  foot  is  only  n(n\.  two  days  before 
startin^^-,  reco\-ered  ;  it  has  been  healed  for  a  week  or 
so.  Then  my  fever :  I  had  a  sharp  attack  last 
Friday  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  again,  on  Sunday 
morning,  mv  temperature  was  105 '  :  I  was  three 
times  awfully  sick,  and  felt  as  ill  as  I  could  be.  and 
I  belie\ed.  as  I  lay  in  bed  that  morning,  that  tli( 
steamer  was  to  leave  at  ()  a.m.  lu^xt  morning.  WC 
should  liave  had  to  be  uj)  at  lour,  and  breakfast,  and 
get  our  personal  luggage  (I  had  still  two-and-adiall 
loads,  70  lbs.  each,  unpacked,  and  accounts  to  be 
settled)  on  board  in  the  dark.  Was  it  possible.  1 
thought  ?  And  the  horrors  of  a  steamer,  too,  with 
the  Monsoon  dead  against  us,  all  night  as  deck 
passengers.  But  it  was  all  made  quite  right  and 
pleasant — pleasant  surprises  coming  continually."' 

••  Bv  the  wav,  another  horror  I  forgot,  the  passage, 
and  if  I  did  reach  Zanzibar  ali\e,  to  Saadani  by 
dhow  eight  hours  at  least,  and  \'er}-  likely  becalmed 
indefinitely  halfway,  there  would  have  been  no  time 
for  rest  here  ;  we  might  have  gone  on  immediately 
yesterday.  Well,  on  Sunday  at  midday,  I  began  to 
improve;  then  we  heard  the  steamer  was  not  to 
start  till  2  p.m.  On  Monday,  I  was  a  good  deal 
better  and  just  managed  m}-  packing,  etc.  The 
'  Yuba'  and  our  deck  quarters  turned  out  infinitely 
G 


82  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

better  than  I  had  expected.  I  got  better  and  was 
not  sick  on  board.  The  Bishop  (who,  expecting  us 
to  follow  in  two  days,  came  here  a  fortnight 
ago)  met  us  with  the  good  news  that  the 
Admiral,  who  is  here  on  the  '  Boadicea '  with 
a  fleet  altogether  of  ten  ships,  and  two  trans- 
ports expected,  had  promised  to  send  us  across 
in  the  '  Redbreast,'  a  fast  vessel,  though  not 
a  large  one,  whether  strictly  a  man-of-war  or  a  gun- 
boat, I  don't  know  ;  this  gives  one-and-a-half  days' 
rest,  and  spares  us  the  dhow  journey,  to  God  be  the 
thanks. 

I'm  quite  well,  but  still  weak  :  anyhow,  its  all 
right,  we  have  been  joined  at  the  last  moment  by 
Hunt,  of  the  Company,  a  delightful  fellow  and, 
perhaps,  the  Mombasa  doctor,  Dr.  Edwards,  who 
was  so  good  to  us  when  ill,  sending  Douglas  and 
me  his  own  milk,  may  come  too.  The  Bishop 
telegraphed  yesterday,  Emin  Pasha  has  reached 
Mpwapwa  three  weeks  ago ;  he  has  been  fighting  ; 
of  course,  in  the  present  state  of  things,  without 
Stokes  we  could' nt  go.'" 

"  Saadani, 

14th  July,   1890. 

Here  still !  We  had  a  delightful  crossing  in  the 
'  Redbreast,'  the  Commanding  Officer  giving  us  his 
own  cabin,  where  we  had  breakfast.  On  arrival  we 
found  the  start  put  off  until  Monday  (to  day)  :  now 
it  is  off  again  till  Wednesday  ;  Shall  we  really  start 
then  ?  Our  first  communication  long  ago  with  Stokes 
made  us  expect  to  start  nearly  two  months  ago. 

We   are   camped  here    in   our  tents  by  the  sea ; 


THE    LONG    MARCH.  83 

Stokes  a  hundred  yards  awa}'  (to  hear  him  talk 
Swahih,  with  an  Irish  brogue!),  and  his  men  in  a 
regular  town  half-a-mile  off,  but  extending  a  mile  or 
more  beyond  that.  My  loads  are  all  satisfactorily 
made  up,  and  have  been  accepted  by  the  porters. 
On  Saturday  morning,  we  had  a  trying  time,  finally 
packing  our  loads,  which  the  porters  then  inspected, 
choosing  each  man  one  to  suit  him.  Mine  went 
immediately,  though  each  of  two  was  ^Ib.  or  lib. 
over  the  regulation  weight — yolbs.  Besides  this,  the 
poor  men  carry  35lbs.  of  cloth,  their  own  pay,  and 
water  and  cooking  pots  for  themselves  !  The  men  are 
very  capricious  about  their  loads — some  shapes  are 
objectionable,  so  some  of  our  men  had  difficulty  in 
getting  their  loads  accepted.  It  was  a  trying  time, 
because  the  tents,  too,  had  to  be  made  into  loads,  so 
shelter  from  the  blazing  sun  was  hard  to  get.  But 
none  of  us,  I  think,  were  an}-  the  worse.  The  same 
evening  we  got  our  mails. 

We  have  a  Bible  reading,  every  day  after  our  mid- 
day meal,  each  choosing  and  starting  a  subject  by 
turns." 

"  Sunday,  August  3rd. 

Two-thirds  of  the  way  to  Mamboia,  near  the 
Mbula  Mountains. 

At  last,  an  opportunity  of  writing,  or  rather 
starting,  a  letter ;  perhaps  it  will  go  from  Mamboia, 
which  we  hope  to  reach  in  a  week  or  so.  To-day, 
being  Sunday,  we  rest  as  usual. 

You  have  heard  of  Hill's  death  :  he  left  Saadani 
for  the  hospital  at  Zanzibar,  early  on  Sunday 
morning,  and    died  that  night.      We  started  next 


84  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

mornino^,  so  we  did  not  hear  of  his  death  for  a  few 
days. 

Baskerville  has  had  fever  :  temperature  105*''  just 
now.  I  wonder  whether  he  will  be  able  to  go  on 
my  donkey  to-morrow  ?  I  don't  think  he  is  as  ill 
as  his  temperature  seems  to  make  him.  However, 
his  illness  is  too  like  Hill's  not  to  make  one  feel  that 
there  is  danger. 

Now  about  myself.  I'm  quite  well,  but  still 
weak.  We  have  two  donkeys,  and  I  generally 
ride  half  the  march.  We  go  an  average  of  nine 
miles  a  day,  and  I  assure  you  I  find  half  that  plenty. 
Isn't  that  a  confession  ?     Then  this  is  Africa. 

Baskerville  and  I  in  one  tent,  Dunn  and  Dermott 
in  another.  Smith  and  Hunt  in  a  third,  Douglas 
in  a  small  one,  and  the  Bishop  in  a  big  one 
by  themselves.  This  is  the  way  we  travel. 
We  divide  the  work  as  follows:  D.  and  D.  (as 
above),  the  canteens,  packing  and  unpacking  for 
meals;  B.,  the  food  boxes;  Smith,  filtering  water  ; 
Hunt,  making  the  tea;  Myself,  the  cooking; 
Douglas,  everything.  Stokes  is  a  most  pleasant 
man  and  extremely  kind  to  us. 

We  are  getting  among  some  fine  mountains,  but 
hitherto  there  has  been  little  striking  in  any  way, 
hardly  any  fiowers,  lions  or  beasts  of  beauty  or 
interest  that  I  could  see.  M}-  chief  interest  is 
learning  Kiganda.  No  one  else  has  begun  it.  I 
have  really  got  on  lately.  I've  been  able  to  get 
some  of  the  main  things  of  the  grammar  out  of  my 
friend  Noah,  who  seems  to  enjo}'  teaching  me.  We 
walk  together  on  the  way,  and  sometimes  I  find  an 


THE    LONG    MARCH.  85 

opportunity  of  establishing  myself  in  a  tent  with 
pen  and  ink  and  m\-  old  Harrow  bank  book  (which 
is  being  transformed  into  a  Kiganda  grammar) 
while  Noah  crouches  on  the  floor  and  is  pumped  as 
to  singulars  and  plurals,  futures  and  perfects,  though 
I  need  hardly  sa}s  I  don't  put  it  that  way.  Indeed, 
it  has  interested,  though  not  surprised  me  to  see 
how  utterly  foreign  and  puzzling  to  N's  ideas  any 
thought  of  grammar  is.  He  has  never  given  me  a 
rule  ;  he  never  generalizes.  You  would  think  that 
any  one — especially  a  very  intelligent  man  like  N., 
anxious  to  please  me  and  teach  me — would  give  me 
some  general  formula  for  making  the  future,  when 
I  ask  him,  say,  ten  verbs,  in  the  form  '  I  shall  go,' 
'  I  shall  send,'  but  no,  he  doesn't  see  what  I'm 
driving  at  a  bit,  but  fills  up  my  '  I  shall  see  '  into 
a  complete  sentence,  which  he  urges  me  to  write 
down,  assuring  me  that  his  words  are   '  very  good." 

Then  again,  when  I  notice  what  seems  an  irregu- 
larity, say  in  one  of  these  futures  as  compared  with 
the  others,  and  ask  him  why  do  you  say  so-and-so, 
whereas  in  the  rest  you  say  so-and-so,  why  don't 
you  say  this  instead,  he  answ^ers,  '  Oh  no,'  its  not 
that,  and  repeats  it  as  he  said  it  before.  If  you  urge 
him  for  an  explanation,  he  says  it's  words  only, 
'  don't  you  see,  of  course  it's  this,'  and  repeats  it  as 
if  you  were  deaf,  or  very  stupid. 

I've  got  one  or  two  tiny  books  with  pra\ers  and 
the  Commandments,  and  Bible  texts,  which  arc  a 
great  help,  but  no  grammar.  Noah  knows  Swahili, 
but  no  English. 

The  Germans  sent  us  twice  this  week  a  leg  of  beei 


86  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

or  veal.  Besides  this  beef,  we  buy  chickens  from 
the  natives,  eggs  sometimes,  and  we  use  tinned 
meats  when  we  can  get  nothing  else. 

We  have  for  our  first  meal,  oatmeal  and  Indian 
meal  porridge,  tea  or  cocoa,  hard  biscuits  and 
butter  (tinned),  at  5.30  in  the  morning.  Awful 
scramble  while  beds,  tents,  or  other  loads  are  being, 
or  are  to  be,  packed  and  sent  off,  everyone  shouting 
for  something  or  someone,  all  in  the  dark,  made 
visible  by  one  lantern.  March  before  6.  In  camp, 
8,  g,  10.  Food  : — Chickens,  rice,  biscuits,  native 
beans,  perhaps  dried  potatoes,  jam,  any  native 
vegetables  ;  we  are  looking  forward  to  sweet  pota- 
toes (on  Sundays,  apple  rings),  at  4.30.  Same  with 
soup  (peagenerall}'),  at  one  or  other  meals." 

"  Mamboia,  E.  Africa, 

Tuesda)-,  August   12th. 

We  got  here  about  nine  o'clock  yesterday  morn- 
ing, the  day  before,  Sunday  (our  usual  practice  is  not 
to  march  on  Sunday),  we  had  a  long  march  of  six 
hours,  most  of  which  I  did  on  Stokes'  donkey :  the 
Bishop  had  hurried  ahead  a  few  days  before  to  be 
at  Mamboia  the  longer,  taking  the  larger  of  our  two 
donkeys.  Baskerville,  who  is  still  weak  from  the 
late  fever,  was  riding  the  other.  So,  of  late,  I've 
been  borrowing  S.'s  donkey,  for  I'm  not  quite 
m\self  yet  ;  though,  on  the  whole,  with  occasional 
relapses,  I've  been  getting  stronger  ever  since  we 
left  the  coast. 

We  stay  here  (a  lovely  place,  of  which  more  anon) 
till  Thursday  or  Friday.     Messrs.  Cole  and  Beverlby 


THE    LONG    AiARCH.  87 

and  Price  (of  Kisokwe,  first  two  men,  and  Mpwapwa) 
are  expected  here  to-morrow,  for  a  conference  with 
the  Bishop,  who  is  not  very  well. 

^[y  last  letter  didn't  enter  into  details  of  the 
march  as  much  as  I  intended,  so  here  goes  : — We 
get  up  some  at  four,  others  a  bit  later,  invalids  per- 
haps not  till  five  ;  then  comes  a  scene,  some  washing 
in  the  bucket  or  basin  outside  their  tent  (unless 
they  think  that  an  evening  wash  is  enough,  for  the 
early  mornings  are  very  chilly,  and  the  whole  thing 
is  a  rush),  others  calling  for  their  boys  to  pack  up 
their  camp-beds,  that  the  tents  may  be  pulled  down, 
which  is  sometimes  done  while,  if  late  or  lazy,  one 
is  still  inside.  Douglas  calling  out  that  the  man 
for  the  loan  of  buckets  and  basins  has  come,  and 
will  everyone  send  the  same  at  once  to  his  tent. 
Meanwhile,  others  are  seeing  to  the  food,  porridges, 
Indian  and  oatmeal,  tea  and  biscuits.  At  last  a 
whistle  is  three  times  blown,  and  we  assemble  round 
the  cook's  fire  for  S\\ahili  prayers  ;  then  the  rush  is 
resumed,  increased  by  the  food  being  ready,  as 
everyone  is  anxious  to  get  some  and  be  off,  if  the 
march  is  to  be  long  and  the  sun  likely  to  be  hot 
later  on. 

Then  comes  Dunn  and  Dermott"s  turn,  who  have 
to  pack  the  canteens  from  which  we  eat,  and  which 
it  is  well  to  get  off  earl}',  as  we  shall  want  them  for 
our  next  meal.  Douglas  stays  last  of  all  and  sees 
that  the  men  take  their  loads,  often  carrying  what  is 
left  behind.  More  than  twenty  porters  have  died 
since  leaving  Saadani,  dysentery  chiefiy.  Remember, 
there  are  2,200  odd. 


88  PILKIXGTON    OF    IGAXDA. 

Tli(jn  coiiitis  the  inarch.  (Juite  cold  at  first,  the 
grass,  perhaps,  dewy.  On  past  the  porters,  who 
\\  ahv  quite  slowly  with  their  loads  of  /olbs.  for  an 
hour  (the  men  have  been  so  ill),  two,  three  or  four 
hours,  as  the  case  ma}-  be.  Some  of  our  men  go 
ahead  and  choose  a  camp  well  in  front  of  the  rest. 
Then  the  question  is,  w^hen  will  this  load  or  that 
load  come  in?  Is  my  tent  in?  Ha\e  they  brought 
my  bed  in,  or  left  it  down  among  the  other  loads  ? 
How  about  the  canteens  and  the  food  boxes  ?  Shall 
we  have  anything  to  eat  before  twelve?  (ii  a.m. 
is  the  hour  we  aim  at.)  Has  the  man  we  sent,  two 
liours  ago — immediately  on  reaching  the  camp — to 
buy  chickens  and  eggs  and  sweet  potatoes,  come 
back  } et  ?  Ha\e  the  bo}s  draw n  water  }'et,  or  ha\e 
tJie  buckets  not  conu;  in  yet  ?  Here's  ni}-  tent,  but 
has  the  man  with  the  ]>egs  come  ?  The  sun's  so 
hot,  and  there's  hardly  an\'  shade — where's  m\-  bo\- 
wdth  my  water  bottles  ?  etc.,  etc.,  etc. 

At  last,  several  tents  are  pitched,  and  in  one  of 
them  we  get  the  table  ready  for  food  and  have  our 
second  meal.  Then  we  have  our  Bible  reading  : 
then  we  read,  rest,  wash,  etc..  as  we  severally  please. 
Meanwhile  food  has  again  to  be  seen  to.  This 
comes  oft'  at  4.30.  Then  Swahili  prayers,  which 
Douglas  and  I  take  by  turns.  Idien,  after  everything 
which  can  ])e  packed  in  the  e\'ening  is  done  with,  to 
bed.  It  is  an  interesting  and  a  novel  way  of  life, 
but  it  would  be  a  stretch  to  call  it  a  pleasant  one. 
and  a  pause  in  a  house,  as  liere,  is  a  great  relief  and 
a  resU 

Now 5  ab'jul  liic  plaLc       Maniboia  li  a  collection 


THE    LONG    MARCH.  89 

of  villages,  some  of  only  a  dozen  beehiNe  huts,  lying 
in  a  broad  \allcy,  among  beautiful  mountains,  rising 
not  high  above  the  valley,  though  4,000  feet  or  so 
above  the  sea.  The  hill-sides,  too,  are  crowded  with 
villages.  Wood,  the  C.M.S.  man  here,  says  you 
can  pass  thirty-two  villages  in  an  hour's  walk.  The 
\alley  is  extensively  cultivated — Indian  corn,  millet, 
sweet  potatoes,  banana,  and  pine  apples,  etc.  The 
mission  station  is  situated  most  beautifully,  high 
abo\-e  the  vallc}-,  3,960  feet  above  sea  level,  com- 
manding a  grand  view  of  it.  It  is  built  on  a  com- 
paratively level  slope.  There  are  two  houses,  three 
rooms  in  each,  besides  store  rooms  (the  Roscoes, 
whom  C.  and  S.  met  at  Cambridge,  were  here.) 
Belo^^•  the  house  is  a  garden,  where,  beside  nati^•c 
things,  English  flowers  and  vegetables  are  grown. 
It  is  wonderful  to  see  the  geraniums  and  petunias  in 
full  bloom  in  Africa  (it  is  so  cold  here)  ;  carrots,  too, 
and  potatoes.  A  church  is  being  built — stone  walls  ; 
for  mortar,  the  ordinary  earth,  which  is  better  than 
our  mortar,  for  it  has  all  been  worked  by  white  ants ; 
walls  three  feet  thick.  It  is  paid  for  b}-  Wood 
himself  and  the  natives,  who  give  either  in  kind  or 
in  labour.  Wc  had  service  there  this  mornin^r: 
thirty  natives  or  so  present.  They  speak  a  language 
which  is  called  Kimegi,  which  bears  resemblance  to 
both  Kiswahili  and  Kiganda. 

This  is  a  splendidly  healthy  place  and  we  hope  to 
gather  health  and  strength  here.  I  wish  I  could 
tell  of  anything  encouraging  in  our  work.  The 
Lord  is  with  us,  and  to  Him  all  power  is  given  in 
Heaven    and  in   earth,  even   in  Africa.      Frav  that 


90  PILKINGTON    OP    UGANDA. 

this  power  may  be  shewn,  and  that   nothing  in  us 
may  hinder  it/' 

"  Kisokwc  (six  miles  beyond  Mpwapwa),  E.  Africa, 

Friday,  22nd  August,  1890. 

Here  we  are  at  Kisokwe,  rather  over  two  hundred 
miles  from  the  coast,  not  quite  so  far  as  Chagga, 
from  which  we  came  back  in  ten  days,  and  yet  on 
Monday,  when  we  expect  to  start  again,  it  will  be 
five  weeks  since  leaving  the  coast.  We  arrived 
early  yesterday,  7.15  a.m.,  from  Mpwapwa.  Here  I 
was  met  by  Mwaka  or  Andreya  (Christian  baptismal 
name)  the  boy  who  taught  me  on  the  steamer.  He 
came  running  to  meet  me.  I  gave  him  some 
chocolate,  and  hope  to  give  him  a  piece  of  cloth 
before  I  go.  He  has  been  preaching  to  the  people 
since  he  came  back.  His  mother  comes  each 
Saturday  to  the  Mission  to  be  taught  ;  this  means 
a  walk  of  three  hours  over  the  hills  with  a  child  on 
her  back.  She  goes  back  on  Mondays.  This  is 
the  most  encouraging  thing  I  ha\'e  heard  or  seen 
in  Africa.  I  hope  and  believe  we  may  say  in  both 
cases,  '  This  hath  God  done.' 

You  will  have  heard  what  is  at  present  uncertain 
news  about  Uganda.  The  Germans,  in  the  fort  at 
Mpwapwa,  have  received  news  that  the  English 
Company's  expedition  to  the  lake  (we  know  they 
are  live  hundred  rifles  strong,  and  are  even  now 
followed  by  probably  a  second  party  eight  hundred 
strong)  have  combined  with  the  Protestants  in 
Uganda,  and  ousted  Mwanga  and  put  Kalema,  the 
Arab  nominee,   upon  the  throne.     Likely  enough, 


THE    LONG    MARCH.  91 

too,  if  the  jealousy  between  the  Roman  Catholic 
chiefs  and  the  Protestants  comes  to  a  head.  We 
heard  of  the  growing  jealously  in  Zanzibar,  but 
wh}'  Kalema  ?  Surely  the  Arabs  are  not  in  league 
with  the  English  Company  !  Was  it  in  default  of 
an\-  other  of  the  blood  royal,  or  has  he  turned 
Protestant  (I  don't  say  Christian)  on  the  chance  of 
a  crown  ?  Had  Mwanga  favoured  the  Roman 
Catholics  or  even  taken  to  Protestant  persecution 
again  ?  Or  is  it  all  a  lie  ?  I  daresay  we  shall  all 
know  when  you  read  this  letter. 

By  the  way,  I'll  say  here  that  I've  not  ridden  a 
donkey  since  Mamboia  and  am  strong  and  well ; 
Baskerville  is  still  rather  feeble.  The  house  at 
Mpwapwa  was  burnt  down  by  the  Arabs  ;  all  agree 
that  it  was  a  \er\'  good  thing  ;  the  house  \\as  so 
grand  as  to  be  a  hindrance  to  the  work.  Mpwapwa 
is  a  ver\-  populous  place.  Lateh',  Price,  the 
Missionary  there,  has  been  encouraged  by  the 
increased  numbers  coming.  Here  they  have  three 
hundred  in  church  on  Sunday  and  sevent\'  every 
day.  Kigogo  is  the  language  here.  Cole,  the 
Missionary,  was  nearly  killed  by  a  buffalo  not  so 
long  ago. 

We  have  come  through  some  magnihcent  \alle\s 
— some  of  them  populous  enough;  the  country,  from 
Mamboia  as  far  as  this,  is  the  mountain  region  of 
Usagara.  On  Monday,  we  start  into  a comparati\ely 
flat  th(nigh  ele\ated  country.  Just  beyond 
Mamboia  is  the  pass  of  Rutako,  4,700  feet  higher 
than  Ben  Nevis.  You  ought  to  look  all  these  out 
in  the  C.M.S.  Atlas." 


92  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

"  Sunday,  24th  August,  2  p.m.,  Kisokwe. 
We  had  a  confirmation  this  morning.  Fourteen 
from  Mpwapwa,  and  I  think  twelve  from  Kisokwe  ; 
some  big  men,  rough  and  wild  looking.  Three 
hundred  natives  or  so  were  present.  Our  visit  here 
has  been  encouraging." 

After  leaving  Kisokwe,,  the  roughest  part  of  the 
journey  began,  and  is  graphically  described  by 
Bishop  Tucker  in  a  letter  from  Unyanguira,  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  beyond  Kisokwe. 

The  Bishop  writes  as  follows  : — 

"  Unyanguira,  E.E.  Africa, 

September  6th,   1S90. 

"  As  you  will  see  from  the  above  address,  we  arc 
getting  on.  We  are  now,  I  suppose,  within  six 
weeks  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza.  Our  progress  has 
been  slow,  but  not  the  less  sure  on  that  account.  I 
believe  xAfrica  is  one  of  those  countries  in  which  it  is 
essentially  true  that  it  is  the  pace  that  kills.  The 
tortoise  very  frequently  wins  the  race  here. 

The  solemn  services  of  Sunday,  August  24th,  over 
— that  is  to  say,  the  ordination  of  Messrs.  Cole  and 
Wood,  and  the  confirmation  of  thirty  candidates — 
we  prepared  for  an  early  departure  on  Monday,  25th. 
We  left  Kisokwe  at  6.30  a.m.  Mr.  Cole  accom- 
panied us  as  far  as  our  first  camping  ground.  We 
there  bade  him  an  affectionate  farewell,  and,  as  a 
party,  were  once  more  alone. 

To  get  water  entailed  a  journey  of  three  hours, 
and,  when  obtained,  it  was  found  to  be  distinctly 
brackish  in  flavour.     The  night  spent  at  this  spot  we 


THE    LONG   MARCH.  93 

shall  not  easily  forget.  It  was  an  open,  sandy  plain, 
across  which  the  wind  rushed  with  unobstructed 
force.  Our  tents,  happily,  had  been  pitched  in  good 
time,  so  that,  when  the  wind  arose,  we  had  some 
shelter,  however  precarious.  Every  moment  we 
expected  our  tents  to  be  blown  away.  Not  one  of 
us  got  a  wink  of  sleep  that  night.  As  w^e  were  to 
make  a  long  march  through  a  porri  or  waterless 
desert  the  next  day,  it  had  been  arranged  to  start  at 
3.30  a.m.,  so,  at  two  o'clock,  I  gave  the  signal  to 
prepare  for  the  march.  The  wind,  a  few  minutes 
later,  dropped  in  a  very  remarkable  way.  We  were 
thus  enabled  to  pack,  and  prepare  breakfast  in 
comfort.  Most  providentially,  the  day  proved  to  be 
cloudy,  so  the  march  was  robbed  of  half  its  horrors. 
None  but  those  who  have  experienced  it  can  under- 
stand what  it  is  to  have  a  burning  sun  beating  down 
from  above,  and  scorching  heat  rising  from  the 
burning  ground  or  sand  at  the  same  moment.  This, 
happily,  we  were  spared  in  going  through  this 
porri.  We  marched  for  six  hours,  and  then 
halted  to  prepare  some  food  with  the  water  from  our 
water-bottles.  After  an  hour's  rest,  we  resumed  our 
journey,  and,  in  a  couple  of  hours,  reached  our 
camping-ground  ;  but  here  again,  alas !  the  water 
was  brackish.  Still,  we  had  to  drink  it,  and  were 
very  thankful  for  it.  It  is  wonderful  the  things  you 
take  kindly  to  when  there  is  no  other  alternative. 
During  the  last  two  months,  I  have  swallowed  more 
mud  in  water  than  in  all  m}-  life  previoush'.  And 
not  only  swallowed  it,  but  swallowed  it  thankfully. 
Another  day  of  brackish  water  had  to  be  endured, 


94  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

and  then  we  started  on  another  long  march  through 
another  waterless  tract  of  country.  We  were  now  in 
Ugogo — which  is  indeed  a  weary  land — a  land  which 
seems  stricken  with  a  curse — even  the  forests  are 
leafless  and  bare.  Here  and  there,  out  of  the  sandy 
plain,  rises  a  conical  hill,  200  or  300  feet  high — 
whether  volcanic  in  its  origin,  I  cannot  tell — probab- 
ly the  ants  have  had  something  to  do  with  the  work 
of  raising  them.  About  these  hills,  a  few  huge 
boulders  have  been  tumbled.  How  grateful  their 
shade — '  the  shadow  of  a  mighty  rock  within  a 
w^eary  land.'  Of  a  truth,  with  the  exception  of 
these  few^  hills  and  rocks,  the  country  is  a  sandy 
waste.  The  inhabitants  of  the  few  villages  we  came 
across  have  to  dig  for  water  in  the  earth.  Some  of 
these  holes  are  thirty  feet  deep.  These  holes  are 
our  only  hope  of  water.  You  can  imagine  how 
eagerly  we  look  down  into  their  depths.  This  second 
long  march  in  this  waterless  district  was  distinctly 
more  trying  than  the  first.  Still  we  held  upon  our 
way,  upborne  with  hope  of  fresh  and  sweet  water. 
This,  happily,  we  found  as  we  halted  at  Mizanza. 

Here  we  spent  two  days,  in  order  to  bring  up  the 
rear.  Our  rear  was  in  a  considerable  state  of  excite- 
ment ;  a  straggler  had  been  speared  by  the  Wagogo, 
and  his  load  taken  from  him.  The  surgical  skill  of 
Messrs.  Dermott  and  Dunn  was  again  put  to  the 
test.  Of  course  he  had  been  speared  in  the  back. 
The  wound  was  a  bad  one,  but  still  not  fatal.  The 
oest  was  done  for  him,  and  he  is  now,  I  am  glad  to 
sa};,  all  right  again.  This  incident  was  a  disagreeable 
reminder  that  we  are  now  in  a  country  in   many 


THE    LONG    MARCH.  95 

respects  hostile.  The  Wagogoare  <::^reat  thieves  and 
bullies.  We  have  just  received  the  startling  news 
that  they  have  almost  utterly  destroyed  an  Arab 
caravan  of  500  porters — within  a  few  miles  of  where 
we  now  are — men,  women,  and  children,  all 
massacred.  Two  or  three  of  our  own  mail-men  have 
also  been  murdered.  This  very  serious  business  will 
probablv  delay  us  a  few  days,  as  the  German  com- 
mander is  going  to  punish  the  chiefs  of  the  tribes 
implicated.  This  will  probably  mean  burning 
villages  and  hanging  one  or  two  of  the  chiefs.  Oh, 
when  will  this  country — this  land  of  misery,  and  sin, 
and  death,  emerge  out  of  its  utter  darkness  ?  Truly, 
to  pass  through  is  oppressive  to  the  spirit  in  the 
highest  degree.  Owing  to  the  state  of  the  country, 
the  German  commander  has  intimated  to  me  that 
he  will  not  be  responsible  for  my  safety  (not  that  I 
regard  him  as  in  any  sense  responsible),  if  I  do  not 
keep  nearer  the  main  body  on  the  march.  Usually, 
I  am  in  the  habit  of  going  ahead  with  our  fastest 
donkey,  so  as  to  be  in  a  position  to  choose  the  most 
favourable  site  for  our  camp,  when  the  kiongozi — or 
leader — has  indicated  the  spot  where  water  is  to  be 
found.  Of  course,  when  a  large  number  of  Natives 
are  travelling  together,  this  is  a  most  important 
matter.  I  generally  try  t(^  get  to  windward  of  their 
camp.  I  suppose  now  I  shall  have  to  be  a  little 
more  careful.  Yesterday,  for  the  first  time,  I  made 
the  acquaintance  of  zebra-steaks.  Wo  passed  a  large 
herd  of  zebras  whilst  on  the  march,  and  one  of  the 
(rermans  managed  to  shoot  one  at  long  range  :  this 
was   brought  into  camp   later   in   the  day,   and  the 


96  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

f^iiccessfiil  marksman  very  kindly  sent  us  a  joint. 
We  found  it  very  good — quite  an  acceptable  change 
in  our  diet/' 

"September  9th,    1S90. 

"  The  air  for  the  last  few  days  has  been  full  of  war 
and  rumours  of  war.  Saturday  night  was  a  night 
to  be  remembered.  After  we  had  pitched  our  tents 
near  Unyanguira,  and  were  preparing  for  our  meal, 
we  were  startled  by  hearing  that  two  German 
soldiers  had  been  murdered  at  a  village  hard  by, 
whither  they  had  gone  with  cloth  to  bu}^  food. 

''  Some  time  previously — that  is,  almost  at  the  time 
of  our  arrival  here — I  informed  the  German  oflicer, 
Lieutenant  Siegel,  that  I  had  seen  a  number  of 
Wagogo  marching  off  from  a  neighbouring  tembe 
(or  village)  with  shields  and  spears,  apparently  in 
military  order.  He  seemed  to  attach  no  great  im- 
portance to  this  fact.  To  my  mind,  it  seemed  an 
indication  of  the  state  of  the  country  around.  After 
events  proved  the  correctness  of  my  surmise.  The 
moment  the  news  arrived  of  the  murder,  Lieutenant 
Siegel  called  his  men  together  and  marched  off  to 
endeavour  to  bring  in  the  dead  bodies,  with  the 
arms  and  ammunition  with  which  the  men  left  the 
camp.  In  about  an  hour's  time  he  returned,  bring- 
ing in  one  dead  man — the  other  body  he  was  unable 
to  recover.  One  of  the  men  died  very  nobly.  When 
he  left  the  camp,  he  received  strict  orders  that  on  no 
account  was  he  to  fire  on  the  natives.  When  he 
approached  the  village,  he  held  his  gun  in  his  left 
hand  and  his  cloth  in  the  right.       He  said,  '  I  have 


The  long  xMArcH.  97 

come  to  buy  food."  The  natives  threatened  him 
with  their  spears.  He  answered,  '  I  am  not  going 
to  light  with  you.  My  orders  are  to  buy  food,  and 
not  to  shoot.  You  can  kill  me  if  you  like,'  and  held 
out  his  arms.  Immediately  the  spears  were  plunged 
into  his  body  in  half-a-dozen  places,  and  he  fell,  in 
obeying  orders,  as  nobly,  it  seems  to  me,  as  ever  any 
soldier  fell  in  battle.  The  other  poor  fellow  had  no 
rifle  ;  he  immediately  took  to  flight  and  endeavoured 
to  escape.  He  was  pursued  for  half  an  hour  through 
the  porri  by  these  Wagogo  bloodhounds,  and  fell, 
pinned  by  a  dozen  spears.  The  Lieutenant  also 
informed  us  that  the  country  was  swarming  with 
men  in  arms,  and  that  evidently  they  meant 
flghting ;  that,  in  all  probability,  an  attack  would  be 
made  upon  us  some  time  during  the  night.  We  at 
once  set  about  making  as  good  a  disposition  of  our 
men  and  loads  as  possible.  At  the  moment,  they 
were  actually  in  as  bad  a  position  as  they  could  be 
— scattered  about  in  little  camps  over  a  wide  plain. 
Word  to  concentrate  was  sent  round,  and  soon  we 
had  the  Wan3'amwezi  camped  all  around  us.  Our 
force  was,  unfortunately,  divided  ;  Mr.  Stokes,  with 
several  hundred  men,  was  some  miles  in  the  rear.  Mes- 
sengers were  sent  ofl"  to  him  with  information  as  to  the 
serious  state  of  affairs.  (We  afterwards  learned  that 
these  runners  did  not  leave  the  camp  until  five  hours 
after  they  had  been  ordered  to  leave).  The  German 
officer  in  command  had  only  seventeen  soldiers  now 
left.  It  is  true  they  were  armed  with  breechloaders, 
but  it  was  a  force  altogether  insufficient  to  deal  with 
the  mass  of  men  which  filled  the  country  in   front. 

H 


98  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

Our  trust  was  in  the  Lord  God  Omnipotent.  We 
placed  men  to  watch  during  the  night,  and  com- 
mitted ourselves  into  the  hands  of  our  Keeper — the 
Keeper  of  Israel — who  neither  slumbereth  nor 
sleepeth.  I  could  not  help  being  struck  with  the 
evening  portion  of  '  Daily  Light,'  which  I  read  as  I 
turned  into  my  tent :  *  Watchman,  what  of  the 
night  ? '  I  slept  from  nine  till  four  in  the  morning, 
and  then  rose.  The  Lieutenant  was  of  opinion  that 
if  an  attack  came,  it  would  be  about  half  an  hour 
before  sunrise,  that  is  to  say,  at  about  half-past 
five  a.m.  We  were  on  the  alert,  but,  happily,  no 
attack  came,  and,  as  the  sun  rose  above  the  level  of 
the  plain,  we  felt  that  we,  through  the  goodness  of 
God,  had  escaped  a  great  danger.  Of  course,  you 
know  that  we  missionaries,  as  a  party,  are  entirely 
unarmed.  There  is  no  doubt  at  all  that,  had  the 
Wagogo  chosen  to  attack  us  during  the  night,  they 
could  easily  have  massacred  the  whole  lot  of  us — 
even  had  we  been  armed.  I  do  not  regret  in  the 
very  least  coming  without  arms.  We  should  not 
have  used  them,  and  they  would  only  have  been  a 
temptation  to  the  men  and  boys. 

A  little  after  eight  o'clock,  on  Sunday  morning, 
Mr.  Stokes  arrived,  and  I  felt  at  once  that,  humanly 
speaking,  things  would  be  arranged.  He  is  a  man 
of  great  influence  with  the  natives — a  man  who 
keeps  his  word  with  them,  and  who  has  never  done 
an  unkind  action  with  regard  to  them.  Besides  all 
which,  he  has  travelled  up  and  down  and  through 
this  country  for  years.  He  at  on':e  sent  out  men  to 
try  to  get  hold  of  a  native  through  whom  communi- 


THE    LOXG   MARCH. 


99 


cation  could  be  opened  up  and  the  matter  arranged. 
In  this  they  were  successful,  and,  in  an  hour  or  two, 
words  were  spoken  between  the  parties.  The  chief 
of  the  country  disavows  the  action  of  his  people. 
The  men,  he  says,  were  killed  contrary  to  his  orders. 
This  disavowal  is  most  satisfactory,  as  it  puts  a 
different  complexion  upon  the  matter.  The  death 
of  these  men  was  therefore  murder,  and  not  an  act 
of  war.  Mr.  Stokes  thereupon  demanded  that  the 
murderers  be  given  up  for  punishment.  Whether 
this  will  be  done  or  not  it  is  impossible  to  say.  I 
cannot  help  feeling,  myself,  that  the  chief  is  merely 
excusing  himself  and  trying  to  put  the  best  possible 
aspect  upon  the  matter.  There  is  no  doubt  in  my 
mind  that  the  Wagogo  would  destroy  us  if  they 
could  as  completely  as  they  have  destroyed  the 
Arab  caravan.  What  they  fear  is  the  presence  of 
many  white  men.  When  they  came  into  camp,  they 
said,  What  can  we  do  against  loo  Muzungu,  or 
white  men  ?   (We  are  only  fourteen). 

A  letter  has  just  arrived  from  Dr.  Wolfendale, 
who  is  some  miles  awa)-,  stating  that  he  is  in 
difficulties,  and  asking  for  assistance.  Dr.  W^olfen- 
dale,  you  will  remember,  is  a  brother  of  Mr. 
\\'olfendale,  the  Congregational  minister  in  Durham. 
He  has  come  out  in  connection  with  the  L.M.S., 
and  ]s  travelling  with  a  caravan  of  his  own,  and  is 
bound  for  Urambo.  It  seems  that  a  Wagogo  chief 
has  stopped  or  barred  his  passage  until  he  has  paid 
heavy  hongo.  He  hears,  moreover,  that  there  is 
another  chief,  a  little  wa}-  in  advance,  who  is  waiting 
to  make  a  still  heavier  demand  upon  him,  and  so  he 


100  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

has  written  asking  if  we  can  help  him  out  of  his 
difficulties.  This  we  are  very  glad  to  be  in  a 
position  to  do.  We  have  sent  off  armed  men,  who 
will,  in  a  few  hours,  we  trust,  bring  him  on  here,  and 
then  we  shall  travel  on  together  until  we  get  out  of 
Ugogo.  Dr.  Wolfendale's  kind  attention  to  poor 
Hill,  who  died  at  Zanzibar,  I  shall  never  forget,  and 
I  am  only  too  thankful  to  be  in  a  position — in  some 
degree — to  requite  that  kindness.  Dr.  Wolfendale 
in  his  note  says  that  so  far  he  has  had  a  pleasant 
and  prosperous  journey.  We  expect  him  to  arrive 
at  about  four  or  five  p.m.  I  trust  there  will  be  no 
fighting  in  getting  him  here.   I  do  not  anticipate  it." 

Later. 

"  Dr.  Wolfendale  and  his  caravan  have  just  come 
into  camp,  escorted  by  the  German  soldiers  sent  by 
Mr.  Stokes  for  his  rescue  out  of  the  dangerous 
position  he  was  undoubtedly  in.  Lieut.  Siegel 
thinks  that,  without  question,  he  has  escaped  a 
great  danger.  The  country  is  simply  swarming 
with  armed  Wagogo.  A  single  act  of  imprudence 
will  be  like  throwing  a  firebrand  into  a  powder 
magazine.  May  God  give  patience  and  wisdom  to 
those  who  are  concerned  in  the  arrangement  of  this 
matter  !  " 

"September  loth,   1890. 

"  I  am  thankful  to  say  that  all  danger  of  a  collision 
with  the  Wagogo  seems  now  to  be  over.  The  chief 
has  sent  in  the  murdered  man's  rifle  and  ammuni- 
tion, but  declares  his  inability  to  produce  the 
murderers,   as  they  have   fled   out  of   his  country. 


THE    LONG    MARCH.  101 

He  is  willing,  however,  to  pay  the  blood-money  in 
ivory  and  cattle.  He  says  he  has  no  cause  of  war 
with  us,  and  desires  peace  for  himself  and  people. 
I  believe,  myself,  that  he  simply  fears  our  strength, 
and  that,  had  we  been  a  small  caravan,  he  would 
have  smashed  us  up  without  mercy.  However, 
*  all's  well  that  ends  well.'  We  shall  probably 
take  him  at  his  word  and  go  on  our  way.  Mr. 
Stokes  will  probably  leave  the  Germans  at 
Mpwapwa,  on  the  coast,  to  call  the  Wagogo  to 
account  for  the  destruction  of  the  Arab  caravan. 
I  am  thankful  to  be  able  to  report  the  safe  arrival 
of  our  mail  men  at  Usongo.  They  escaped  the 
massacre,  and  are  now,  in  all  probability,  at 
Usambiro." 

"September  nth,   1890. 

We  left  our  camp  in  front  of  Unyanguira  this 
morning,  and  a  two  hours'  march  brought  us  to  an 
abundance  of  water  and  food.  We  shall  evidently 
get  through  Ugogo  without  any  attack  by  the 
natives.  They  seem  thoroughly  to  respect  our 
strength.  An  Arab  caravan,  bound  for  the  coast, 
has  just  come  in,  and  I  must  send  this  and  other 
letters  by  it,  so  must  close.  We  are  all  in  good 
health  and  full  of  hope,  greatly  cheered  by  our  near 
approach  to  a  country  more  hospitable  than  Ugogo. 
The  Master  has  indeed  been  with  us,  guiding, 
keeping,  strengthening,  and  comforting  us  at  all 
times.  All  being  well,  we  hope  to  be  in  Uganda 
before  this  letter  reaches  you.  We  expect  to  reach 
Usongo  about  the  end  of  September,  and  to  be  at 


102  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

Usambiro  about  October  21st.  But  we  are  in  the 
Lord's  hands,  and  can  calculate  on  nothing  ;  content 
to  live  a  day  at  a  time." 

On  October  3rd,  1890,  Pilkington  continues,  writing  from 
Byaba,  12  miles  South  of  Usongo. 

"  Here  is  another  chance  (sooner  than  we  expected) 
of  writing.  Mail  men  have  just  arrived  from  the 
Lake ;  they  go  on  to-morrow.  I  was  not  expecting 
to  have  an  opportunity  of  writing  till  we  had  reached 
Usongo,  so  you  must  excuse  a  scanty  letter.  Usongo 
is  Stokes'  village;  the  chief,  Mtumginya,  is  his 
ardent  friend  and  supporter.  We  hope  to  get  there 
at  8  a.m.  to-morrow,  after  a  four  hours'  march 
through  a  '  porri,'  or  scrubby  forest  (nothing  but 
scrubby  little  trees,  fairly  close  together,  nothing 
grand),  these  '  porris '  are  uninhabited  tracts,  in 
fact,  where  there  is  a  village,  a  clearing  is  made  for 
cultivation  ;  uninhabited,  I  should  say,  but  for 
robbers,  who  catch  stragglers  with  loads  of  cloth 
and  kill  or  disable  them.  We  got  through  the 
'  Mgunda  Mkali '  at  last ;  we  had  a  two  da3^s'  halt 
on  the  verge,  owing  to  difficulties  with  our 
Wasukuma  porters,  which  made  it  especially  trying 
to  the  men,  whose  cloth,  for  food,  had  to  last  all  the 
same.  My  cookery  has,  of  late,  been  greatly  helped 
by  quantities  of  native  butter  and  honey.  I  have 
just  borrowed,  to  my  great  joy,  a  Kiganda  Grammar 
in  French,  by  a  Priest,  from  one  of  the  German 
party,  a  Dane  ;  it  will  be  a  great  help  and  most 
interesting,  after  I  have  tried  to  make  things  out  for 
so  long  without  such  help. 


THE    LONG   MARCH.  103 

Have  just  come  back  from  packing  my  bucket,  or 
rather  arranging  for  packing  in  the  morning — getting 
out  loads  and  stowing  in  tins,  native  meal,  rice,  milk, 
honey,  butter,  pea-flour,  etc.,  etc — not  quite  all  these 
to-night.     We  shall   be  called   about   2.30  a.m.  to- 
morrow— the  loads  will  go  off  to-night   now  that  I 
have  done  with  them.       I   am   writing,  through  the 
Bishop's  kindness,  in  his  tent,  and  on  his    materials. 
You   will    have   heard,    by   telegram    perhaps,    a 
month   before  this  reaches  you,  the  news  of  general 
interest    which    goes    by    this    mail,    the    various 
incidents   in   Uganda ;    Emin    Pasha,   just    beyond 
Usongo,    unable   to    proceed   because    of    war    in 
Usukuma — we  are  thankful  to  hear  that  now  this 
is  at  an    end ;  the  death  of    four  French    Priests. 
Anyhow,  the  upshot  of  all  this,  as   far  as   we   are 
concerned,  is  this :  that  we  hope  and  believe  at  the 
present  moment  we  shall  be  able  now  to  go  right  on 
into  Uganda  without  delay,  except  four  days  or  so 
at  Usongo  to   settle  about  the  carriage   of  forty  or 
fifty  C.M.S.  loads  (left  there  long  ago)  to   Usambiro 
(the    C.M.S.  station    at    the    South    of    the    Lake, 
where    Deekes   and   Walker,    of    the    C.M.S.,    and 
Gedge,    of    the    British    Company,    are   at   present 
trying  to  buy  from  the  Arabs),  and    such    further 
delay  at  the  latter  place  as  may  be  thought  desirable, 
or  may  be  necessary,  for  preparing  the  boat  or  boats 
to^convey  us  and  our  effects.     The  C.M.S.  boat  was 
soon  to  go  back  with  Gedge ;  it  will  now,  no  doubt, 
wait    if    possible    for    us,    as   they   ought    to    have 
received  the   Bishop's    letter  from    Mamboia    some 
days  ago,  just  after  the  departure  of  their  mail  men. 


104  PILKINGTON    OP   UGANDA. 

who  arrived  here  to-day,  having  passed  our  mail 
men  a  few  days  only  from  Usambiro. 

We  are  now  in  a  land  of  plenty,  such  a  relief 
after  Ugogo.  Usongo  is  a  goal  we  have  long 
looked  forward  to.  Our  rest  there  will  give  an 
opportunity,  much  needed,  of  washing  and  mending 
our  clothes,  our  bodies  and  other  effects,  e.g.,  my 
camp  bed,  which  is  rather  out  at  elbows.  We 
are  all  quite  well  and  strong,  and  so  we  can  see  a 
great  deal  for  which  to  praise  God,  not  that  this  is 
not  always  '  comely  for  the  righteous,'  '  it  becometh 
well  the  just(ified)  to  be  thankful.'  We  have  long 
hoped  in  vain  for  letters  :  there'll  be  the  more  when 
they  do  come.     We  got  our  last  at  Mamboia. 

Douglas  has  just  come  for  letters,  and  for  buckets, 
the  porter  whereof  wants  to  do  them  up  for  an  early 
start ;  nobody  knows  where  they  all  are — I  chiefly 
use  them  for  the  kitchen — so  I  have  promised  to 
hunt  them  up,  and,  as  it  is  pitch  dark,  I  had  better 
set  to  at  once,  as  it  is  now  7.10  p.m.,  and  we  are  to 
get  up  at  2.30,  and  lots  of  other  things  are  to  be 
done." 

"  Nera  (two  days  from  Usambiro), 

Saturday,  October  i8th,  1890. 

We  expect  to  start  on  Monday  from  here,  and 
reach  Usambiro  early  on  Wednesday.  The  C. 
M.  S.  boat,  we  heard  yesterday,  started,  a 
fortnight  ago,  for  Uganda,  with  Walker.  The 
Bishop  will  be  greatly  vexed  at  this,  for  it 
means  our  stopping  at  least  a  month  at  this  end  of 
the  lake.     Two  rnen  of  our  party  are  going  to  stay 


THE    LONG    MARCH.  105 

at  Nassa  with  Deekes  for  the  present,  and  Usambiro 
will  be  given  up  ;  this  is  not  certain,  but  only  very 
probable.  Nassa  is  four  days  from  Usambiro  to  the 
West,  on  the  Lake,  Hooper's  old  station,  very  good 
for  the  work,  except  for  a  cantankerous  chief.  \\'e 
had  a  note  from  Emin  Pasha  yesterday,  asking  for 
letters  to  be  forwarded ;  he  is  four  or  five  days  from 
here. 

We  are  all,  I  am  thankful  to  say,  perfectly  well. 
We  arrived  here,  after  some  hard  days,  very  tired  ; 
so  the  rest  is  very  acceptable  though  tantalizing, 
when  so  near  the  end,  but  unavoidable,  as  this  is 
the  home  of  most  of  our  W^asukuma  porters,  and  they 
have  nearly  all  run  off  and  left  their  loads,  declaring 
they  only  agreed  to  carry  them  as  far  as  this. 

We  have  lately  had  lots  (well,  comparatively 
speaking)  of  milk,  much  of  it  sour,  which  we  all, 
myself  not  least,  appreciate  very  much. 

This  is  a  very  populous  country — people  very 
friendly — I  should  think  as  populous  as  a  great  part 
of  the  country  in  England.  We  are  stopping  a  mile 
or  so  from  the  Capital,  where  the  chief  lives,  at  the 
village  of  a  Mwanangwa  (or  village  chief),  who  has 
been  with  us  from  the  coast.  We  killed  a  bull 
yesterday,  given  us  by  a  chief  some  way  back,  so 
the  cooking  department  is  busy,  and  boys  and  all 
are  in  clover.  How  pleasant  the  prospect  of  reach- 
ing a  station  is,  I  can't  express,  except  by  asking 
you  to  imagine  reaching  Dublin  or  Kingstown  by 
steamer  after  a  stormy  crossing  : — No  more  cooking, 
no  more  marching,  no  more  resting  (?)  in  a  broiling 
tentl 


106  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

At  Usongo,  where  Stokes  had  a  place  of  his  own 
built  for  him  by  the  chief,  we  found  among  a  lot  of 
C.  M.  S.  property  stored,  most  of  which  is  to 
follow  us,  a  Kiganda  grammar  in  English,  a  very 
poor  one,  still  a  great  treasure,  and  a  cookery  book ! 
both  of  which  were  presented  to  me.  I  succeeded 
in  making  a  very  good  sweet  omelette  the  other  day, 
but  good  eggs  are  scarce  ;  out  of  38,  the  other  day, 
less  than  ten  were  eatable.  They  were  a  present ; 
I  weigh  them  in  water  before  buying.  Yesterday 
and  to-day  I  tried  and  rejected  20,  I  daresay. 

No  mail  from  the  coast  yet. 

It  has  been  decided  to  send  mail  men  to  Stokes 
to  get  our  loads  taken  on  from  here  ;  w^e  shall  go  on, 
we  hope,  with  a  few  of  our  personal  things. 

"  We  also  got  a  French  Kiganda  grammar  at 
Usongo  ;  it  is  a  far  better  one  than  the  English ; 
it  was  published  three  years  later. 

Did  I  tell  you  that  the  Latin  word  '  mensa,' 
'  table,'  has  passed  through  Portuguese  into 
Swahili  in  the  form  of  *  meza,'  and  thence  by  a 
reverse  process  into  Kiganda,  as  *  menza '  ?  I  am 
afraid  I  shall  find  it  hard  not  to  go  on  with 
'  menzam,  menzae,  &c.,  &c.'  " 

Two  days  later  the  party  arrived  at  Usambiro, 
and  thus  came  to  the  end  of  the  long  march  from 
the  coast. 

A  member  of  that  party.  Rev.  F.  C.  Smith,  gives 
some  interesting  reminiscences  of  this  journey.  He 
says  that  Pilkington  was  specially  noted  for  the 
keenness  with  which  he  would  urge  the  claims  of 


THE    LONG   MARCH.  107 

his  favourite  hobbies,  whether  it  were  superfatted 
soap,  or  Jaeger  boots,  or,  it  might  be,  his  methods  of 
language  study. 

When  he  got  hold  of  a  man  who  would  help  him 
in  his  language,  he  almost  made  his  life  a  burden  to 
him,  and  it  is  said  that  some  of  the  Baganda,  on  the 
way]  up,  shunned  him  if  they  thought  they  were 
going  to  be  catechised. 

He  was  always  great  on  controversy,  or  on  the 
solving  of  problems.  Bishop  Tucker  once  set  a 
problem  on  political  economy  which  Pilkington 
would  not  leave  till  he  had  solved. 

He  strongly  contended  with  his  fellow  Missionaries 
that  the  worth  of  a  thing  was  the  amount  that  it 
would  fetch  at  a  particular  place. 

"  Usambiro,  E.E.  Africa, 

Saturday,  November  ist,   1890. 

We  got  here  ten  days  ago :  Wednesday,  the 
22nd.  Douglas  arrived  the  evening  before,  by  an 
afternoon  march  ;  the  Bishop  and  Dermott  on  the 
Saturday  mid-day,  having  gone  ahead  from  Nera. 
On  Thursday,  i.e.,  the  next  day,  the  Bishop  and 
Hooper  and  Deekes  went  on  to  Nassa,  to  see 
about  re-establishing  a  station  there.  This  place 
is  to  be  given  up  as  a  Missionary  Station,  and 
Deekes  and  Dermott  are  to  go  to  Nassa.  They 
left  me  with  the  five  other  men  in  temporary  charge 
of  this  place,  where  there  are  about  twenty  boys 
and  eight  girls  on  the  station ;  most  of  them, 
including  two  dwarfs,  left  here  by  Stanley.  They 
had  been  seized  by  his  men  during  the  wars  in  the 


108  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

interior,  and  were  redeemed  from  them  by  Mackay. 
Seeing  after  them  and  our  own  boys,  and  the 
household  arrangements,  as  well  as  school  in  the 
afternoon—besides  trying  to  buy  a  good  supply  of 
meal,  rice,  honey,  etc.,  to  support  us  here  and  to 
carry  on  to  Uganda  (where  the  late  disturbances 
have  caused  great  scarcity) — makes  me  busy. 
Besides,  I  want  to  do  Luganda  and  read  all  day, 
what  seems,  after  Safari,  the  endless  wealth  of  books 
that  we  find  here.  I  sleep  at  night  on  a  bed  made 
by  Mackay,  on  which  both  he  and  Bishop  Parker 
died.  The  graves  of  these  two  and  Blackburn  (who 
formed  three  of  the  party  of  six  who  were  here 
when  Hooper  w^as  last  at  Usambiro),  are  within  a 
stone's  throw  almost. 

The  reading  sheets  we  use,  each  afternoon,  were 
printed — at  least  the  large  letters — with  wooden 
type  cut  by  Mackay  with  his  knife.  We  have  this 
type  in  the  printing  office. 

The  C.M.S.  boat,  as  I  think  I  told  you,  has  gone 
on  to  Uganda.  Stokes'  boat  we  expect  here  any 
day,  but  how  many  of  us  will  be  able  to  travel  by 
her  we  don't  know  yet.  The  Bishop  and  the  two 
others  may  be  back  in  three  or  four  days,  now.  By 
the  way,  I  had  a  day-and-p.-halfs  fever  soon  after 
we  got  here   (temp.  103^)  but  not  much,  and  it  is 


Here,  two  subjects  dealt  with  in  this  letter  may 
be  mentioned,  showing  that,  although  deeply 
occupied  with  his  own  Mission  work,  he  kept  up  a 
deep  interest  in  the  spheres  in  which  he  had  worked, 


THE    LONG    MARCH.  l09 

and  especially  in  Harrow,  and  also  in  other  Mission 
Fields. 

"My  letter's  in  The  Harrovianl  It  tickles  my 
foolish  pride  to  know  it,  and  it  is  pleasant  not  to  be 
forgotten.  There  are  so  many  at  Harrow  of  whom 
I  think  continually,  that  it  is  only  fair  that  they 
should  have  been  reminded  of  me.  It  w^as  interesting 
seeing  the  pictures  of  Harrow  in  The  Illustrated, 
which  has  just  arrived. 

I  have  just  written  a  note  to  Mr.  Broomhall,  in 
which  I  promise  him  £10  for  the  work  in  China, 
w^hich  he  says  is  to  help  '  an  attempt  to  evangelise, 
in  the  course  of  the  next  ten  years,  the  whole  of 
China.'  To  give  £10  for  such  a  purpose  looks 
almost  like  a  joke,  but  every  little  helps,  and  it  will 
be  accepted  according  to  what  I  have,  not  what  I 
have  not." 

"Sunday,   nth. 

More  than  a  fortnight  since  I  began  this,  and 
much  has  happened.  I  have  not  written  because, 
during  that  time  I  have  had  two  more  attacks 
of  fever  (Temperature  105*^  and  104*^),  both 
short  and  not  serious.  But  I  have  sad  news  : 
another  of  our  company  has  been  taken  to  rest. 
Hunt,  w^ho  joined  us  at  the  coast,  having  been  in 
the  service  of  the  Company,  died  on  Friday,  after 
six  days'  illness,  of  fever,  and  finally  we  thought  we 
saw  symptoms  of  typhoid.  We  buried  him  that 
evening.  I  was  asked  by  the  others,  Deekes — who 
had  returned  from  Nassa — and  our  men,  to  read  the 
service  in  English.  He  was  buried  beside  Mackay, 
near    Parker    and    Blackburn.      That   evening,  the 


no  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

Bishop  and  Hooper  came  back ;  the  Bishop  not  yet 
well  from  two  attacks  of  fever  he  has  had  at  Nassa. 
Hooper  had  had  fever  too.  Deekes  had  come  back 
a  week  before.  Dunn  has  had  fever  twice  here,  and 
is  seriously  ill  still.  Baskerville  is  just  recovering. 
Myself,  three  times  ;  everyone  of  our  coast  boys  too. 
The  latter  we  have  sent  back  to  the  coast  now,  and 
very  glad  they  are  gone.  Coast  men  and  boys  are 
the  worst  in  all  Africa,  they  combine  the  vices  of 
European  and  Arabian  civilisation  with  those  of 
Africa. 

We  have  divided  up  the  boys  here  among  our- 
selves, each  man  undertaking  to  provide  for  his 
three  or  four,  and  to  take  complete  care  of  them. 
In  fact,  we  adopt  them,  as  they  have  no  relations 
or  other  friends  for  such  time,  at  least,  as  we  shall  be 
in  the  country.  I've  got  three  intelligent  and  very 
willing  boys,  Nasitu,  who  came  with  Stanley  (say 
14  years),  Matruki,  about  the  same  age,  and  Kitera, 
12  years.     I  expect  I  shall  now  have  one  of  Hunt's. 

We  expect  the  boat  ever}/  day.  I'm  particularly 
well  now ;  these  touches  of  fever  for  two  or  three 
days  are  totally  different  from  what  I  had  at  the 
coast.  I'm  thankful  for  that  now,  both  because  I 
probably  escaped  thereby  having  a  bad  attack  on 
the  road,  or  here  without  a  doctor,  and  other  things, 
and  also  without  the  experience  of  myself  which  I 
have  now.  We  had  Communion  this  morning  at 
7  a.m." 

"21st  November. 

More  sad  news.  I  told  you  Dunn  was  ill. 
He  died   last    night   very   quietly.      I've    had    wot 


THE    LONG   MARCH.  Ill 

more  quite  slight  attacks  of  fever ;  they  are 
good  things,  as  taking  the  place  of  a  heavy 
attack.  Hunt  had  been  in  Africa  a  year  without  a 
day's  illness.  His  first  attack  carried  him  off  in  six 
days.  Dunn  had  merely  a  touch  of  fever  two  or 
three  days  before,  and  then,  in  a  week,  he  is  taken. 
Most  thankful  I  am  that  my  first  and  serious 
attack  was  at  the  coast.  We  hope  to  be  off  soon 
for  Uganda." 

At  last,  after  six  weeks  delay  fraught  with  such 
terrible  disaster  to  the  party,  the  long-looked  for 
boat  arrived.  Mr.  Smith  tells  us  that,  when  the 
natives  sighted  the  boat,  they  called  out  in  Luganda 
which  Pilkington  was  the  first  to  understand,  and 
danced  about  in  glee  at  having  been  the  first  to  bear 
the  good  news. 

"  Usambiro, 

Tuesday,  December  2nd,  1890, 
I  am  thankful  to  say  the  boat  arrived  a  few  days 
ago,  and  we  hope  to  start  on  Thursday.  We  shall  be 
glad  indeed  to  get  out  of  this  poisonous  place  ;  I've 
had  my  sixth  dose  of  fever  since  I  came  here,  and 
am  seedy  now.  Baskerville  was  ordained  deacon 
and  Hooper  and  Dermott  priests,  yesterday." 

"Christmas  Eve,  1890. 
On  the  boat  among  the  Sesse  islands,  Victoria 
Nyanza.  Within  a  day  or  two  of  Uganda  (or 
rather  Mengo,  the  Capital)  we  have  met  canoes 
on  their  way  to  bring  up  the  rest  of  our  loads — 
so  I  write  a  line.     We  have  had,  on  the  whole,  a 


112  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

pleasant  voyage.  I've  had  fever  four  times,  but 
am  particularly  well.  We  shall  miss  Christmas 
in  Uganda ;  I'm  to  try  with  bananas,  Mtama 
flour,  &:c.,  to  make  a  pudding  for  Christmas.  On 
Sunday,  I  spoke,  through  Noah,  and  a  little  on 
my  own  account,  to  twelve  Waganda  in  the  morning 
and  fifty  in  the  evening,  sitting  outside  my  tent. 
I've  also  spoken  to  little  knots  on  islands  and  main- 
land since  we  reached  the  Uganda  country. 
Captain  Lugard  has  reached  Uganda,  so  the  place 
will  soon  be  settled." 

So  he  thought,   but   the   settlement    was  not  to 
come  so  soon  as  he  expected. 


f 


7    E      A^-S;fT^^'^     A     ¥/,R       I 


^ 


'li 


CHAPTER     VII. 


UGANDA  AT  LAST. 


Ox  the  threshold  of  Uganda,  it  may  be  well  to 
pause  for  a  moment  in  order  to  remind  ourselves  of 
some  of  the  events  which  had  taken  place  since 
Missionaries  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society  first 
entered  on  work  in  this  great  district  of  Central 
Africa,  and  also  to  gain  an  idea  of  the  meaning 
of  some  of  the  terms  which  will  be  used  in  this  and 
succeeding  chapters. 

It  was  in  November,  1875,  that  Stanley's  mem- 
mor^ble  letter  to  the  Daily  Telegraph  appeared, 
telling  of  King  Mtesa's  willingness  to  receive 
teachers,  which  led  to  the  sending  forth  of  the  first 
band  of  Missionaries.  Since  that  time,  in  spite  of 
disease  and  death,  and  in  spite  of  the  fickleness  of 
Mtesa,  the  work  was  maintained. 

Mwanga  succeeded  his  father  in  October,  1SS4, 
and  then  indeed,  a  reign  of  terror  began. 
Persecution  tried  to  the  utmost  the  early  Baganda 
converts,  some  of  whom  were  tortured  and  burnt 
to  death ;  then  followed  the  murder  of  P>i5hop 
Hannington,  the  excuse  for  which  was  that  the 
bishop  had  approached  Uganda  from  an  unlucky 
side.      Still,   Mackay  and   Ashe  kept   the   field,  the 

I  113 


114  PILKIXGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

former  for  a  considerable  time  alone.  Gordon  and 
Walker  took  his  place  in  the  summer  of  1887, 
Alackay  retiring  to  the  south  end  of  the  Lake.  The 
following  year  they  were  obliged  to  leave  Uganda 
owing  to  a  revolution  in  which  Mwanga  was  driven 
from  the  country. 

He  was,  however,  re-instated  at  the  end  of  1889 
and  Gordon  and  Walker  returned  with  him. 

Meanwhile  Mackay,  who  had  been  a  member  of 
the  first  Missionary  party  and  had  never  left  Africa, 
died  at  Usambiro  on  February  8th,  1890,  at  which 
place  Bishop  Parker  had  also  died.  Mr.  Jackson  had 
entered  Uganda  as  a  representative  of  the  British 
East  Africa  Company,  followed  a  little  later  by 
Captain  Lugard.  Such  was  the  condition  of  affairs 
when  Bishop  Tucker  and  his  party  arrived.  It  may 
not  be  out  of  place  to  explain  here  that  the  term 
Uganda  is  a  word  used  by  English  travellers  and 
others  as  a  name  for  the  country  to  the  north  of  the 
Victoria  Nyanza,  which  is  known  by  the  natives  as 
Buganda.  Still,  the  name  Uganda  is  so  familar  to 
English  readers  that  its  use  is  justifiable.  The 
inhabitants  of  Buganda  are  known  as  Baganda,  or, 
as  it  is  in  Swahili,  Waganda ;  a  single  native  of 
Buganda  is  known  as  a  Muganda,  whilst  the 
language  is  termed  Luganda,  or,  as  the  Swahili 
have  it,  Kiganda. 

The  Victoria  Nyanza  is  the  largest  of  the  chain  of 
lakes  which  extends  in  a  broken  line  from  the  Nile 
Valley  to  the  Zambesi.  Its  area  is  rather  greater 
than  that  of  Scotland,  so  that  it  may  almost  be  called 
an  inland  sea. 


UGANDA   AT    LAST.  115 

Reference  to  the  map  of  the  entire  lake  will  <(ive 
the  best  idea  of  the  position  of  Uganda,  and  it  will 
be  noticed  that  there  are  a  large  number  of  islands 
in  its  immediate  vicinity,  and  closely  identified  with 
It  in  politics  and  religion.  The  land  is  said  to 
consist  of  a  succession  of  hills  and  hollows,  and  the 
soil  is  exceedingly  fertile,  so  that  the  hillsides  are,  in 
many  cases,  covered  with  rich  groves  of  plantains 
and  bananas. 

The  climate  is  an  unusually  healthy  one  for 
Africa,  and,  when  the  railway  is  completed,  it  is 
hoped  that  the  risks  to  health  may  be  still  further 
dnnmished;  as  the  trying  journey  from  the  coast, 
through  belts  of  the  most  malarious  country,  has 
been  responsible  for  much  of  the  sickness  and  death 
of  members  of  the  Uganda  Mission. 

The  most  interesting  geographical  boundary  of 
Uganda  is  the  River  Nile,  on  the  east,  which  flows 
out  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza  over  the  magnificent 
Ripon  Falls. 

The  appearance  of  the  country  has  been  changed 
by  the  laying  out  of  roads  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  capital.  In  other  parts,  there  are  only  the 
ordinary  African  paths. 

The  capital  of  Buganda  is  generally  known  as 
Mengo,  though  that  word  is  more  accurately  applied 
to  the  hill  on  which  the  king's  residence  is 
situated,  which  is  only  one  of  about  thirteen  hills  of 
which  the  capital  is  composed.  The  best  known  of 
the  other  hills  are  Namirembe,  the  centre  of  the 
C.  M.  S.  Mission  ;  Rubaga,  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Mission:     Kampala,   at   that   time  the  hcad-(juarters 


116 


PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 


of  the  representatives  of  the  British  East  Africa 
Company ;  and  Natete,  where  the  Mohammedan 
chiefs  have  settled. 

With  this  short  preface,  and  with  the  aid  of  the 
maps  and  plans  which  illustrate  these  points,  we 
may  pick  up  our  travellers  where  we   left  them  pre- 


Map  of  Uganda  and  surrounding  districts. 

paring  for  a  voyage   across  the  great   inland  sea  of 
Central  Africa. 

Of  this,  Pilkington  writes  :  '*  We  coasted  round 
the  lake  in  a  small  sailing  and  rowing  boat  of  the 
Mission,  camping  in   our  tents  at   night,  or,  indeed. 


UGANDA   AT    LAST.  117 

owing  to  head  winds,  by  day  and  sailing  by  moon- 
light. We  had  to  leave  most  of  our  things  behind 
pro  tern.,  and  still  with  three  loads,  five  Europeans, 
men,  boys,  and  sailors,  we  were  all  squashed  like 
sardines  in  a  box." 

The  voyage  was  not  without  incident,  and  here 
we  may  quote  the  story  told  by  Bishop  Tucker. 
He  says  : — 

"  We  were  sailing  with  a  fair  wind,  but  there 
were  signs  of  a  coming  storm.  The  thunder  was 
behind  us,  and  dark  clouds  were  crowding  up ;  the 
water  was  becoming  disturbed.  The  boatmen 
thought  it  a  good  thing  to  spread  the  awning  —a 
most  dangerous  thing  to  do  under  the  circumstances. 
The  main-sail,  instead  of  being  held  loosely  in  the 
hand,  was  tied  to  the  side  of  the  boat.  Hooper 
shouted,  '  Loose  the  sheet  !  '  but  before  the  words 
were  out  of  his  mouth,  the  storm  struck  us.  The 
boat  heeled  over  in  such  a  manner  that  it  seemed 
utterly  impossible  she  could  right  herself  again ; 
but  just  at  that  moment,  most  providentially,  the 
sail  gave  way,  it  split,  and  we  were  saved.  Had  it 
not  done  so,  it  is  almost  a  matter  of  absolute  cer- 
tainty we  should  all  have  gone  down  like  a  stone." 

Continuing  his  story  the  Bishop  remarks  : — 

"After  paying  a  visit  to  Emin  Pasha  on  the 
western  shore,  we  approached  the  confines  of  the 
country  of  Uganda,  and  it  was  truly  wonderful  the 
evidence  we  saw,  from  day  to  day  as  we  camped, 
of  the  intense  desire  of  the  people  for  Christian 
instruction.  W' ithin  a  few  minutes  of  our  landing, 
quite  a  crowd  came  about,  and  those  who  had  books 


118  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

would  bring  them  and  ask  to  be  further  instructed, 
whilst  those  who  had  none,  begged  and  implored 
us  to  give  them  some.  Mr.  Pilkington,  who  was 
the  only  one  able  to  speak  the  language  of  Uganda, 
would  frequently  have  within  a  few  minutes,  quite  a 
crowd  round  about  him,  who  would  be  engaged  in 
learning  and  repeating  texts  of  Scripture  ;  and  by 
simply  giving  notice  that,  in  an  hour  or  so,  a  service 
would  be  held,  some  fifty  or  more  would  come 
together  for  prayer,  &c.  Of  course,  all  this  filled  us 
with  great  hope  and  increased  our  impatience  to 
reach  the  capital.  At  length,  after  many  delays 
caused  by  light  and  variable  winds,  on  the  twenty- 
third  day  of  sailing,  and  on  December  27th,  we 
reached  the  capital.  And  how  shall  I  tell  of  that 
warm  welcome  given  to  us  by  the  Natives  of  the 
Church  and  by  Brethren  Walker  and  Gordon,  who 
for  so  long  have  so  nobly  held  the  fort  ?  " 

"  On  Monday,  December  29th,''  Bishop  Tucker 
writes,  "  we  paid  our  respects  to  the  king  in  open 
court.  At  about  half-past  nine,  a  messenger  came 
from  the  king  to  say  that  he  was  ready  to  see  us. 
So,  setting  off,  we  reached  the  royal  residence  at 
about  10  a.m.  Our  party  consisted  of  Messrs. 
Walker,  Gordon,  Pilkington,  Baskerville,  Smith, 
Hooper,  and  myself.  Outside  the  palace,  another 
messenger  met  us,  his  work  being  apparently  to 
conduct  us  into  the  royal  presence.  I  suppose  he 
must  have  been  the  Chamberlain.  As  we  came 
near  the  reed  gate  which  separated  us  from  the 
audience  or  reception  room,  drums  were  beaten  and 
trumpets  blown.     The  gate  was  immediately  thrown 


UGANDA   AT   LAST.  119 

open  and  we  were  in  the  presence  of  the  king  and 
his  court.  The  former  at  once  rose  up  to  greet  us, 
shaking  each  one  by  the  hand.  Our  seats — for  we 
had  taken  the  precaution  of  bringing  our  chairs 
with  us — were  placed  on  the  right  hand  of  the 
king.  He  at  once  inquired  about  our  journey  and 
made  various  inquiries  about  our  ages,  &c.,  &c.,  at 
the  same  time  making  remarks  as  to  the  colour  of 
our  hair,  our  height,  &c.,  &c.  With  regard  to  the 
king  himself,  his  appearance  is  certainly  not  pre- 
possessing. The  impression  he  gives  one  is  that  of 
his  being  a  self-indulgent  man.  When  he  knits  his 
brows,  his  aspect  is  very  forbidding.  During  the 
whole  of  the  time  we  were  there,  he  kept  giving  his 
hand  either  to  the  Katikiro  on  his  left  hand  or  to 
the  Admiral  on  his  right,  or  to  anyone  who  amused 
him  and  was  near  at  hand.  I  had  intended  to 
bring  with  me  one  or  two  presents  for  the  king — not 
on  the  old  scale  or  principles,  but  as  a  simple 
acknowledgment  of  his  courtesy  in  sending  canoes 
to  Usambiro  for  our  goods.  But  his  unfaithfulness 
in  regard  to  his  promise  recoiled  upon  his  own  head. 
Thinking  that  the  canoes  would  follow  us  from 
Usambiro  in  a  few  days,  I  left  the  presents  for  the 
king  to  be  brought  on  later.  No  canoes  appearing, 
no  presents  were  forthcoming.  I  thought  the  king 
seemed  quite  angry  with  those  about  him  who  were 
responsible  for  the  delay  in  the  departure  of  the 
canoes.  At  any  rate,  he  asked  several  very  sharp 
questions  with  regard  to  the  causes  of  the  delay. 
The  atmosphere  of  the  reception-room  was  oppres- 
sively close,  and  so  we  were  not  sorry  when  the  king 


120  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

rose  up  from  his  seat  as  the  signal  that  his  audience 
was  at  an  end.  Instead  of  retiring  to  the  rear,  as 
his  custom  is,  he  followed  us  to  the  front  of  the 
barraza,  not  merely,  I  think,  as  a  matter  of  courtesy, 
but  in  order  to  inspect  us  a  little  more  narrowly." 

Pilkington's  early  impressions  of  the  position  in 
Buganda  are  given  in  a  letter  to  his  friend,  Mr. 
Martineau. 

"  C.  M.  S.  Station,  Uganda, 

January  4th,   1891. 

This  is  a  wonderful  country  and  a  wonderful 
people  ;  war  has  ruined  the  country  for  the  present ; 
the  bananas,  which,  with  sweet  potatoes,  form  four- 
fifths  of  the  food  of  the  country,  won't  be  bearing 
again,  barring  the  few  spared  in  the  war  a  year  ago, 
for  two  more  years  ;  what  with  war  and  disease, 
there  are  hardly  any  cattle  left ;  in  fact,  we  are  only 
just  now  coming  out  of  the  famine.  In  spite  of  this 
we  have  been  amply  supplied,  seven  of  us,  and  our 
'  boys,'  with  bananas,  sweet  potatoes  and  meat  from 
our  native  friends  here,  as  presents,  for  which  they 
expect  no  return  in  material  things  ;  we  live  mainly 
on  green  bananas  boiled.  Three  houses,  in  native 
style  though  of  English  cottage  shape,  have  also 
been  built  to  receive  us  ;  we  shall  give  the  builders 
a  present,  but  not  the  value  of  their  work  ;  and  very 
likely  they  are  not  expecting  anything.  So  we 
needn't  cost  the  C.  M.  Society  much.  The  houses 
are  built  of  a  strong  and  tall  grass  cane  dried  in  the 
sun,  and  tied  firmly  in  regular  lines  with  strips  of 
bark  (if  you  can  call  it  so)  of  the  banana  tree ;    the 


UGANDA   AT    LAST.  121 

grass  roof  is  supported  by  stems  of  a  palm  that  grows 
here  (no  eatable  fruit,  however).  The  doors  are 
made  of  the  same  as  the  walls,  and  are  at  present 
just  leaned  in  the  doorway.  The  windows  are  holes, 
over  which  we  are  putting  blinds  of  native  bark 
cloth.  These  houses  keep  out  rain  and  sun,  but  not 
wind  and  cold ;  however,  I  think  them  very  com- 
fortable and  pretty  to  look  at  ;  the  floor  is  earth 
beaten  down,  rather  damp  as  yet. 

A  thousand  or  more  come  to  our  service  on 
Sunday ;  half  of  these  at  least  can  read,  though 
some  would  be  only  beginners  ;  the  Church  is  over- 
crowded. On  week  days,  500  or  so  come  to  '  read  ' 
(i.e.  to  worship  and  to  be  taught)  from  six  to  nine  in 
the  morning.  The  keenness  to  learn  is  incredible. 
Many,  I  believe,  would  keep  it  up  all  day  long  if 
you  let  them  ;  how  far  and  in  how  many  cases  this 
is  a  sign  of  real  Christianity  in  them,  I  can't  say  at 
present. 

The  state  of  the  country  is  still  very  unsettled, 
though  much  improved.  There  are  five  political 
parties  in  the  country  (to  none  of  which  do  we,  the 
white  men,  belong — politics  are  not  our  business) : — 
i. — The  English  Company,  with  Capt.  Lugard  at 
present  at  its  head.  He  has  not  strength  enough 
yet,  or  thinks  he  has  not,  to  take  a  strong  and 
decided  course.  ii. — The  Roman  Catholic  Party, 
headed  by  the  King  and  half  the  big  Chiefs.  The 
Kmg  hates  and  fears  the  first  and  following  party, 
iii. — The  Protestant  Party,  headed  by  the  biggest 
and  wealthiest  of  the  Chiefs,  the  '  Katikiro,'  and 
the   remaining    Chiefs.      iv. — The    Heathen    party 


122  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

which  is  not  a  party,  but  the  great  majority  of  the 
population,  who  have  lost  nearly  all  political  power. 
V. — The  Mohammedan  party,  which  is  no  longer  in 
this  country,  but  in  the  neighbouring  and  once 
subject  State  of  Bunyoro,  whither  those  who  have 
not  been  killed  have  been  driven.  The  Christian 
parties  have  all  the  guns,  2,000  each  perhaps,  hence 
their  exclusive  power. 

The  people  are  like  children,  or  like  tinder,  and 
the  least  excitement  sets  them  in  a  blaze.  The  other 
morning  they  had  come  to  Church  here  with  their 
guns,  of  course,  when  a  report  got  about  that  the 
Roman  Catholics  were  about  to  attack — all  a  lie. 
Immediately,  they  all  rushed  out  in  tremendous 
excitement  into  the  main  road,  and  had  the  Roman 
Catholics  had  time  to  collect,  they  might  have 
caused  a  fright.  A  night  or  two  later,  the  Roman 
Catholics  got  a  similar  scare.  All  through  the 
night  they  were  assembling  at  the  King's.  In  the 
morning,  the  Protestants  gathered  at  the  Katikiro's. 
They  were  at  last  calmed  with  great  difficulty  ;  now 
each  party  has  sent  in  to  Captain  Lugard  a  list  of 
grievances  against  the  other  ;  I  hope  he  may  settle 
them  justly  and  wisely,  and  be  able  to  have  his 
decisions  fairly  carried  out. 

This  is  a  beautiful  country,  very  hilly,  covered 
with  banana  trees  (our  houses  are  in  the  middle  of  a 
banana  '  shamba,'  or  garden,  which  is  the  Mission's), 
10  miles  or  so  from  the  lake,  and  a  good  bit  above 
its  level,  very  healthy,  we  are  told,  for  Africa  ;  we 
are  just  north  of  the  Equator. 

This  place  is  to  my  mind  a  fresh  proof,  or  I  should 


UGANDA   AT    LAST.  123 

say,  confirmation,  of  the  living  power  of  the  Word 
of  God  ;  it  has  turned  the  world  upside  down  here. 
They  are  ready  to  pay  as  many  cowries,  1,500,  as 
would  amply  feed  a  man  for  two  months,  for  a  New 
Testament  in  Swahili  ;  of  course,  we  don't  give 
them  awaw  for  many  would  take  them  only  to  sell 
them  again  ;  and  we  are  out  of  books  at  present,  we 
can't  supply  the  demand  fast  enough. 

My  work  here,  if  God  lets  me  work  here,  is  to 
be  chiefly  in  the  language;  the  four  Gospels  are 
nearly  finished  ;  nothing  else  ;  so  plenty  is  left  for 
me." 

Thus  early,  Pilkington  was  marked  out  for 
linguistic  work,  and  in  this  connection  the  following 
letter  from  Bishop  Tucker  is  of  great  interest, 
particularly  as  it  refers  to  others  who  had  already 
done  splendid  work  in  reducing  Luganda  to  writing 
and  producing  the  earliest  translations  : — 

"  Buganda, 

Jan.   1 89 1. 

Mv.  Dear  Mr.  Pilkington, 

It  seems  to  me  to  be  clearly  pointed  out 
by  Him,  who  never  leaves  his  Church  without 
guidance  and  direction,  that  the  special  work  to 
which  you  are  called  in  Buganda,  is  translational 
and  linguistic  ;  in  entrusting  to  your  care  this 
important  part  of  the  vvork  of  the  Mission,  I  do 
so  with  the  utmost  confidence,  believing  that  the 
Word  of  God  will  have  in  you,  one  who,  as  a 
Christian,  will  handle  it  with  holy  reverence,  and 
who,  as  a  scholar,  will  translate  it  with  accuracy.     I 


124  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

am,  however,  not  forgetful  of  the  fact  that  at  present 
you  have  scarcely  done  more  than  make  a  beginning 
with  the  language.  I  am,  therefore,  glad  to  know 
that  you  have,  in  Mr.  Gordon,  one  who  will  greatlv 
assist  you  in  your  studies,  and  in  every  wa}'  co- 
operate with  you  in  your  work.  For  some  time  to 
come  you  will  naturally  seek  Mr.  Gordon's  help,  and 
consult  him  in  matters  in  which  his  experience  and 
linguistic  attainments  will  qualify  him  to  express  an 
opinion.  He  is  at  present  engaged — as  I  dare  say 
you  know — in  the  completion  of  an  important  work 
commenced  by  Mr  Mackay :  this  will,  of  course, 
remain  in  his  hands  until  its  passage  through  the 
press.  After  this,  it  is  Mr.  Gordon's  own  wish  that 
the  translational  and  linguistic  part  of  the  work 
should  be  placed  in  your  hands.  I  am  sure  you 
may  depend  upon  his  hearty  support  and  loyal 
co-operation  in  all  that  is  undertaken  for  the  Glory 
of  God,  in  the  spread  of  the  knowledge  of  His  word. 
This  translational  work  will  not,  I  am  sure,  prevent 
you  from  engaging  as  opportunity  may  present 
itself  from  time  to  time,  in  the  more  directly 
Spiritual  work  of  the  Mission,  for  this,  you  will  place 
yourself  at  the  disposal  of  those  who  have  charge  of 
that  work.  Praying  that  a  great  blessing  may  rest 
upon  your  labours,  and  that  you  may  have  health 
and  strength  given  to  you  for  all  that  you  under- 
take, and  that  much  joy  and  peace  may  fill  your 
own  soul.     I  remain. 

Ever  yours  in  Christ, 
Most  faithfully  and  affectionately, 

Alfred,  Bishop,  E.  E.  Africa." 


UGANDA    AT    LAST.  125 

"  P.S. — 1  cannot  help  thinking  that  one  of  the 
most  useful  pieces  of  linguistic  work  to  which  you 
can  put  your  hand  would  be  (as  soon  as  you  feel 
yourself  qualified  to  undertake  it)  a  simple  Gram- 
mar. Its  usefulness  to  those  coming  up  country  for 
the  first  time  would  be  simply  incalculable.  I 
commend  it  earnestly  to  your  attention." 

Early  days  in  Buganda  were  not  idle  ones. 
Pilkington  writes  to  his  mother  on 

January  3rd,   1 89 1. 

"  We've  had  a  lot  to  do,  the  houses  to  rig 
up,  get  the  floor  pounded  down,  get  a  trench  dug 
round  it  to  keep  off  the  rain,  rig  up  a  shift  for  a 
table,   etc.,  etc.     Then    I've    had   to    set  a    Swahili 

paper,  and  shall  have  to  look  over  it  for  ,  who 

is  to  be  examined  for  orders,  to  be  preparing  Noah 
for  confirmation,  besides  getting  oneself  and  one's 
clothes  washed, 'learning  Luganda,  etc.,  etc. 

Then,  on  Monday,  we're  to  start  classes  for 
confirmation,  about  fifty  candidates  to  be  taken  in 
Swahili  by  four  of  us.     So  I've  plenty  to  do." 

Later  on,  writing  to  one  of  his  sisters,  he 
describes  his  surroundings  as  follows  : — "  I'm  sitting 
on  a  native  stool,  cut  out  of  solid  wood.  As  my 
table,  I  have  put  my  large  tin  writing  desk  on  my 
native  bed  (a  strong  wooden  framework  with  a 
cowhide  stretched  tightly),  my  table  is  too  high  for 
the  stool.  On  my  right  side  against  the  wall  is  my 
camp  bed,  whose  canvas  is  greatly  torn  in  the 
middle,  and  which  I  use  only  as  an  untidy  table  to 
put   tilings  on.      liy  the  way,  one  of  the  chiefs  lent, 


126  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA 

and  then  gave,  the  native  bedstead.  Then  comes  a 
basin,  supported  on  a  four  cross-legged  stool  made 
by  my  Muganda  boy,  Erasito ;  intended  to  make  a 
stool  for  myself,  but  unsatisfactory.  Then  I  have  a 
table  behind  me,  strewn  with  books,  standing  on 
four  legs  that  are  fixed  in  the  ground,  and  the  top 
formed,  like  the  walls  of  the  houses,  of  the  grass 
cane  tied  to  the  frame  with  strips  of  banana  bark — 
this  is  only  temporary.  Over  the  windows  and 
door  I  have  curtains  of  bark  cloth.  On  the  pole 
which  stands  in  the  middle  of  the  room  and 
supports  the  roof,  I  have  two  bags  of  clothes 
hanging. 

Above  my  head  I  have  a  large  package — a  yard 
long,  six  inches  in  diameter — of  native  salt  done  up 
in  banana  leaves — salt  is  very  scarce  here.  For  this 
salt — 10  lbs.,  perhaps — I  paid  four  3ards  of  the 
miserable  w^hite  calico  which  is  called  cloth  here ; 
this  is  equivalent  to  20,000  cowries,  or,  as  we  say, 
20  strings,  which,  in  normal  times,  would  buy  40 
huge  bunches  of  bananas,  each  with  100  or  200 
bananas  on  it ;  or  three  fat  goats  or  sheep ;  40 
strings  would  buy  a  cow.  A  string  of  shells  costs 
us,  including  carriage,  about  a  shilling." 


CHAPTER   VIII. 


A    LULL    L\    THE    STORM. 


For  some  little  time  there  was  a  cessation  from 
those  violent  outbreaks  of  hostilities  which  had  so 
often  interrupted  Missionary  work,  and  though,  to 
those  who  were  familiar  with  the  situation,  it  was 
evident  that  this  was  not  likely  to  last,  opportunity 
was  afforded  for  considerable  progress,  especially  in 
translational  work,  and  on  the  part  of  the  people  in 
their  desire  for  books. 

Pilkington  felt  the  need  of  more  books  most 
keenly,  and  his  letters  about  this  time  are  full  of 
schemes  for  expediting  the  production  of  books. 

On  February  24th,  1891, 
He  writes  : — "  In  the  loads  came  books,  which 
went  (at  least  the  New  Testaments)," — no  doubt 
these  were  in  Swahili — "like  wild-fire  at  1,000 
cowTies  apiece ;  200  cowries  buy  ample  food  for  a 
man  for  a  week.  Only  120  New  Testaments  or  so 
came  ;  after  a  day  and  a  half  all  had  gone,  and 
many  people  had  to  be  sent  away  disappointed. 
We  want  thousands  of  books  and  hundreds  of  men. 

"February  25th,  1891,  4.30  p.m. 
I've  just  finished  a  spell  of   writing  translation; 
this  is,  of  getting  a  Muganda  who  kno\\s  Swahili  to 

127 


128  PILKIXGTOX    OF    UGANDA. 

translate  from  that  language  into  Liiganda.  I  am 
doing  the  Acts  in  this  way,  every  morning,  for  three 
hours,  with  Henry  V.'right  Duta,  the  most  educated 
of  our  people.  In  the  afternoon,  I  am  doing  some 
Bible  stories  from  Swahili.  These  translations  won't 
be  perfect  when  they  are  done,  but  I  think  they 
will  be  correct  and  intelligible,  and  the  need  of 
Luganda  books  is  most  pressing.  Matthew,  and 
an  abridged  prayer-book,  and  a  reading  sheet  with 
the  Commandments  and  Lord's  prayer,  are  the  only 
Luganda  publications  we  have  or  have  had,  for  as 
soon  as  we  get  any  they  go  like  the  wind.  .  .  . 
The  four  Gospels  have  been  translated.  Now  to 
have  them  printed  and  sent  here,  there's  the  rub  1 
We  got  the  other  day  the  first  copies  of  Matthew 
that  reached  Uganda,  and  they  were  printed  in  '88, 
two  or  three  years'  delay.  I  can't  imagine  how  it 
was,  and  the  people  here  dying  for  books  and  ready 
to  pay  for  them.  Now  what  I  want  to  do  is  this, 
only  I  want  your  help :  I  want  friends  at  home  to 
subscribe  money  to  get  these  books  printed,  and 
want  you,  that  is  my  family,  to  get  them  printed, 
and  to  look  over  the  proofs,  because  you  know  my 
handwriting ;  to  have  a  proof  out  here  means  a 
delay  of  six  months  or  so.  Do  you  think  you  could 
manage  this  ?  The  need  of  native  books  is 
enormous.  We  should  sell  them  here  for  cost  of 
printing  and  carriage,  and  send  the  money  home  to 
get  more  printed.  You,  that  is  all  you  who  are 
familiar  with  my  writing,  could  look  over  the  proofs 
more  satisfactorily  than  anyone  else.  I've  no  doubt 
Father  knows  a  good  printer  in  Dublin.     If  I  try  to 


A    LULL    IN    THE    STORM.  129 

get  them  printed  in  any  other  way,  I  am  sure  it 
would  only  mean  endless  delay.  Where  each  book 
had  been  thoroughly  revised  (and  to  do  this  printed 
copies  here  would  be  an  immense  help)  I  should 
send  it  to  the  Bible  Society.  But  this  wouldn't  do 
at  first,  and  we  must  have  an  immediate  supply. 
The  natives  here  are  ready  and  fit  to  teach  a  great 
deal,  only  they  want  books.  The  first  thing  is  to 
gather  some  money  together.  I  shall  write  to  a 
good  many  people,  and  I  am  sure  this  will  be  no 
difficulty.  But  still,  if  you  would  write  to  anyone 
who  would  like  to  help,  it  would  be  a  great  thing. 
I  don't  think  you  would  find  it  either  very  difficult 
or  very  tedious  looking  over  the  proofs,  because  all 
you  could  do  would  be  to  compare  them  with  my 
copy,  original  corrections  you  could'nt  make.  What 
do  you  say  ?  " 

"Sunday,  March    ist,   1891. 

I  shall  write  more  about  the  above  matter  when 
Gordon  has  come  back  from  Busoga,  and  I  have 
consulted  him ;  whether  that  will  be  before  this  letter 
goes  (we  expect  him  for  Easter  perhaps)  or  not,  I 
can't  say.  I  can't  bear  to  think  of  delay  of  six  months 
at  least,  perhaps  a  year,  while  the  proofs  could  come 
and  be  sent  back,  when  the  people  are  so  eager  for 
books.  At  the  same  time,  I  don't  wish  to  burden  you 
at  home  ;  however,  I  am  sure  that  my  sisters  would 
think  it  a  great  privilege  to  have  a  part  and  a  very 
important  one  in  so  grand  a  work.  I  believe  that 
the  results  of  having  a  Luganda  Bible  here  would 
be  amazing. 

The    position  of   Uganda,   within   easy  reach   by 

K 


130  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

steamer  of  all  the  country  that  fringes  the  lake,  a 
central  position  too,  in  Africa,  generally  com- 
manding further  the  South  end  of  the  Nile  valley, 
makes  me  think  the  events  of  the  last  dozen 
years  : — Stanley's  visit,  the  Missionaries  coming, 
the  great  movement  (whether  you  think  of  it  as 
religious,  intellectual,  or  political),  the  persecutions, 
the  coming  of  the  English  Co.,  the  death  of 
Mackay,  and  Stanley's  return  to  England  (because 
of  the  interest  in  this  country  aroused  by  these  two 
events),  all  these  things  coming  together,  seem  to 
me  in  a  most  special  way  to  be  providential.  In 
other  words,  I  think  all  these  things  point  to  the 
fact  that  '  Ethiopia  shall  soon  stretch  out  her  hands 
unto  God,'  and  that  Uganda  will  be  a  great  centre 
of  light. 

Henry  Wright  Duta,  whom  I  mentioned  as  my 
translator,  is  a  very  clever  man.  He  might  have 
been  a  big  chief,  Katikiro  had  he  chosen,  but  he  pre- 
ferred the  position  of  a  simple  teacher ;  others  have 
made  the  same  choice. 

We  had  the  Lord's  Supper  in  Church  to-day. 
Captain  Lugard  (theoretically  the  King,  but  it  was 
Captain  L's  advice  that  prevailed)  has  decided  th^t 
the  Sesse  islands  are  to  be  divided  as  originally 
agreed  between  the  Protestant  and  the  Roman 
Catholic  parties.  The  Roman  Catholics  have 
hitherto  held  them  to  the  exclusion  of  all  other 
parties ;  this  has  been  decided.  When  will  it  be 
carried  out  ?  When  that  happy  time  comes  we 
shall  be  able  to  get  canoes  for  our  loads  from 
Usambiro.     The  canoes  are  now  under  the  control 


A    LULL    IN    THE    STORM.  131 

of    Roman    Catholic    chiefs    and    the    King,    who 
promises  anything  but  performs  nothing. 

We  expect  De  Winton  to  afternoon  tea  to-morrow 
afternoon.  I've  undertaken  to  make  the  bread.  I've 
made  very  fair  bread  from  native  materials  lately  ; 
rice,  plantains,  potatoes,  milk,  and  pombe  barm,  but 
now  I've  got  English  flour,  butter  and  cake,  with 
raisins  and  currants,  of  which  we  have  a  few.  So  with 
translations,  etc.,  I'll  have  a  busy  day  to-morrow.  So 
good  night,  it's  9.15  now." 

"Sunday,  8th  March,   1891. 

We  are  getting  canoes  sent.  We  hope  to-morrow  to 
send  to  Usambiro  for  loads,  so  the  letters  are  to  start 
on  Tuesday  and  catch  the  others  up.  The  political 
state  of  the  country  is  still  very  unsettled.  Smith  and 
Gordon  are  still  in  Busoga,  at  least,  so  we  suppose,  we 
have  not  heard  of  them  since  they  crossed  the  Nile. 

With  Henry  Duta,  I  have  now  translated  nearly 
half  the  Acts.  I  hope  to  send  to  the  Bishop  by  this 
mail,  short  translations  of  Bible  stories,  Adam, 
Noah,  Abraham,  Isaac,  Moses,  Samson,  Jonah, 
Nebuchadnezzar,  etc.,  which  would  be  very  useful 
while  we  have  no  Old  Testament  in  Luganda,  and 
especially  for  teaching  children  both  the  Bible  and 
reading.  They  have  been  translated  by  different 
natives  who  know  Swahili.  In  another  fortnight  or 
so,  I  hope  to  finish  the  Acts,  and  in  another  month, 
perhaps,  the  Grammar  which  the  Bishop  suggested. 
All  these  things  will,  of  course,  at  first,  be  very  im- 
perfect, but  I  want  the  Grammar  to  be  ready,  if 
possible,  to  give  what  help  it  can  to  the  20  men  the 
Bishop  hopes  to  bring  out  soon. 


132  PILKINGTON    OE    UGANDA. 

Do  you  know  the  picture  leaflets  which  are  pub- 
lished b}  the  Children's  Special  Service  Mission  ?  I 
am  going  to  write  to  Mr.  Bishop  to-morrow  to  ask 
whether  he  could  get  some  in  Luganda  printed  for  us, 
and  I  mean  to  send  him,  in  case  he  can  do  it  for  us, 
the  story  of  Naaman  with  a  few  words  in  explanation 
of  its  typical  meaning.  The  last  part  of  Revelation 
VII.,  Psalms  LI.  i,  2,  and  7,  ist  John,  I.  7,  and  a 
hymn,  of  which  this  is  a  translation  ....  It  is 
very  doubtful  whether  the  C.  S.  S.  M.  can  under- 
take to  do  them,  but  I  think  it  worth  trying.  The 
rains  are  on  now,  which  makes  it  much  cooler  and 
pleasanter,  to  my  mind.  My  boys,  who  came  from 
Usambiro,  are  thriving  fearfully  here.  One  had 
dysentery  when  he  first  came,  he  was  dangerously 
ill,  nearly  as  bad  as  Edgar  on  the  road  (to 
whom  I  am  writing  by  this  mail).  In  both  cases, 
ipecacuanha  was  successful.  Now  this  boy,  who 
was  a  skeleton,  is  as  fat  as  ma}^  be ;  so  is  Najibu, 
whom  I  hear  in  the  next  room  practising  ta,  to,  te, 
ta,  to,  te,  from  his  reading  sheet.  He  has  the 
reputation  of  being  the  cleverest  of  the  boys  whom 
Stanley  brought  to  Usambiro.  The  other  boy 
who  was  ill,  was  Emin  Pasha's,  Erasito.  My 
Muganda  boy  is  17  or  so,  and  can  read  perfectly, 
and  knows  Swahili  well ;  he  is  the  brother  of  the 
Katikiro,  the  '  Lord  Chancellor,'  as  Ashe  calls  him 
in  his  book.  Have  you  read  it?  'Two  Kings  of 
Uganda.'  The  smallest  of  them  is  Kitera,  who 
arrived  here  with  the  last  mail. 

In  writing  to  Mr.  Bishop  about  the  picture  leaflets 
he  says  :  "  I  have  been  thinking  lately  of  the  picture 


A    LULL    IN    THE    STORM.  133 

leaflets  of  the  C.  S.  S.  M.,  and  wishing  very  much 
to  get  some  for  our  people  here  (who  would 
appreciate  them  immensely  and  buy  them  with 
shells)  ;  and  wondering  whether  it  would  be  possible 
to  get  some   in   Luganda 

I  think  this  country  has  a  particular  claim  on 
you,  because  the  oldest  of  its  people  are  only  over- 
grown children." 

This  request  was  gladly  granted  by  the  Children's 
Special  Service  Mission. 

"April  5th  1891. 

Nearly  all  the  Waganda  have  gone  out  to  fight 
the  Mohammedans,  who  were  ravaging,  a  week  ago, 
only  six  hours'  march  from  here.  The  Katikiro  is 
'  Mugate,'  i.e.,  General,  and  Henry  Duta  is  with 
him  as  his  Secretary.  Samwili  (who  went  as  a 
sort  of  Ambassador  to  the  three  Consuls,  English, 
French  and  German  at  the  coast,  who  has  just 
come  back),  was  to  have  taken  Henry  Duta's  place 
in  helping  me,  but  he  has  fever.  The  Waganda  have 
driven  the  Mohammedans  off,  they  are  retreating  to 
their  stronghold  in  or  near  Bunyoro,  the  Captains 
are  soon  to  start  with  seven  hundred  men  and  two 
Maxim  guns  in  pursuit ;  they  will  offer  them  terms, 
and,  if  these  be  refused,  will  take  their  stronghold. 

The  Acts,  Henry  and  I  finished  a  week  ago,  but 
I  must  still  revise  it.  I  am  working  hard  at  the 
grammar  now,  making  voc:ibularies  just  at  present. 
I  hope  to  be  able  to  send  something  in  the  way  of  a 
Grammar  and  general  Handbook  to  the  language  in 
two  months  more,  but  I  shall  have  to  work  hard. 
This  might  be  ready  to  help  the  men  coming  out 


134  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

in  the  Autumn.  I  have  written  ten  Luganda  hymns 
to  the  tunes,  and  to  some  extent  following  the 
words  of  the  following  :  '  Art  thou  weary  ?  '  '  There 
is  a  fountain,'  '  There  is  life  for  a  look,'  '  Onward 
Christian  Soldiers,'  '  Look  ye  Saints,'  '  I  heard  the 
voice  of  Jesus,'  '  Grace,  'tis  a  charming  sound,'  '  I 
lay  my  sins  on  Jesus,'  '  Just  as  I  am.'  I  intend  to 
send  a  copy  of  this  to  Deekes  at  Nassa ;  he  may  be 
able  to  print  us  some.  This,  and  Grammar,  and 
translations,  making  bread,  butter,  and  pancakes 
(you  should  see  me  toss  them  before  a  group  of 
admiring  black  boys)  have  chiefly  occupied  me  since 
I  last  wrote. 

Gordon  is  back  from  Busoga.  Smith  is  still 
there.  Walker  went  the  other  day  to  Budu,  the 
Pokino's  country,  to  make  a  start  there.  Kitera, 
my  small  boy,  was  Gordon's  originally,  so  Gordon 
has  taken  him.  He  starts  home  in  a  month  or  two. 
I  have  an  odd  bit  of  black  mortality  in  his  place 
called  Kisasiro,  a  very  odd  little  boy.  Nasitu  told 
me  to-day  that  one  of  Stanley's  porters  bought  him 
for  a  doti,  that  is  four  yards  of  calico  ;  he  seemed 
rather  proud  of  having  been  worth  so  much.  One  of 
Walker's  boys  was  bought  for  an  old  tin  cannister ; 
to  remind  him  of  it  is  a  favourite  method  of  teasing 
him.  I  think  he  tries  to  make  out  it  was  a  biscuit  tin." 

"April  1 2th,  1 89 1. 

I've  been  particularly  well  lately,  and  accordingly 

my    Grammar    makes    good    progress ;     the    whole 

thing  is   to    consist   of   grammar,  syntax,  notes  on 

pronunciation,    specimens   of    Luganda,    especially 


A    LULL    IN   THE    STORM.  135 

conversations,  Luganda-English  Vocabulary,  and 
English- Luganda  ditto.  I  hope  to  finish  it  by  the 
end  of  next  month  ;  a  good  deal  is  done  already. 

De  Winton  has  asked  us  all  to  tea  this  afternoon. 
Lugard  and  Williams  and  the  Doctor  are  out  at  the 
war ;  no  fighting  yet.  The  enemy  shewed  some 
desire  to  fight  before  the  English  came  up,  but  I 
expect  they  are  retreating  now. 

We  have  planted  beans,  Indian  corn,  guavas, 
pawpaws,  lemons,  peas,  and  radishes ;  cabbages  we 
have  had  several  of  lately.  There  are  four  fresh 
eggs  on  this  table  waiting  for  me  to  cook.  I  have 
made  some  excellent  bread  lately.  A  good  deal  of 
wheat  has  been  planted,  but  not  by  us.  The 
country  is  rapidly  improving ;  perfect  quiet  now  and 
confidence  in  the  English  Company." 

In  a  letter  to  Mr.  Martineau  he  remarks: — ''Sugar 
here  is  a  great  luxury  ;  we  have  some  left,  but  only 
use  it  on  great  occasions.  I  daresay  you  look  on 
saccharine  with  scornful  eyes :  but  as  articles  cost 
about  2s.  per  lb.  to  bring  up  here,  or  sometimes  5s., 
lightness  is  a  very  valuable  quality  for  us.  The 
Society  pays  for  our  loads,  but  of  course  we  all  try 
to  cut  down  expenses  as  much  as  possible  (you  see 
at  the  present  moment  we  could  find  ample  work  for 
twenty  Europeans  here  and  this  would  cost,  to 
bring  them  here,  ^^5,000  at  least) ;  so  there  is  every 
reason  to  economise  :  accordingly,  I've  only  ordered 
saccharine  for  next  year,  a  couple  of  little  bottles.  II 
you  could  tell  me  any  simple  process  by  which 
sugar-cane  (which  we  grow,  but  not  much,  here) 
could  be  used  for  sweetening  things,   it  would  be 


136  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

very  useful.  Slicing  it  and  putting  it  in  hot  water 
makes  no  earthly  difference;  I  find  :  indeed,  it's  ol 
very  little  use  to  us.  The  people  chew  it  lar^^ely, 
spitting  out  the  fibre,  but  we  don't  care  for  it. 
We  get  honey  from  the  South  end  of  the  lake 
occasionally." 

With  reference  to  the  demand  for  books,  Mr. 
Walker  writes  from 

"  Namirembe,  Buganda, 

March  9th,  1891. 

Just  lately  we  sold  4,000  Luganda  reading-sheets 
and  about  200  Swahili  New  Testaments,  as  well  as 
other  books.  The  demand  is  very  great  for  the 
New  Testament,  but  Ezekiel  and  Jeremiah  are  not 
much  cared  for  because  they  are  not  understood. 
Could  you  have  sent  up  of  the  Luganda  reading- 
sheets,  10,000  copies ;  of  St.  Matthew  in  Luganda, 
3,000  copies ;  of  the  Prayer-book  in  Luganda, 
3,000  copies  ?  I  should  like  to  ask  for  more,  but 
the  above  will  make  22|-  loads.  We  do  not  intend 
to  charge  the  actual  cost-price  here  in  Buganda 
necessarily,  but  so  near  to  this  that  there  should  be 
no  great  loss  on  the  books.  For  a  Swahili  New 
Testament  we  have  charged  the  people  1,000  shells, 
and  these  we  have  sold  for  3s.  6d.  The  book  in 
England  is  sold  for  2s.  and  weighs  one  pound. 
There  must,  therefore,  be  a  small  loss  on  each 
book,  but  it  is  only  a  small  one.  On  the  Luganda 
reading-sheets  we  have  made  a  little  profit,  as  we 
sell  each  for  thirty  shells. 

The  French  priests  are  here  in  great  numbers 
and    are    very    active.       Surely    many    people    in 


A    LULL    IN    THE    STORM.  137 

England,  who  cannot  come  to  help  us  themselves, 
would  like  to  help  on  the  work  by  sending  the  Word 
of  God  here  in  its  written  form." 

Pilkington  writes  to  Bishop  Tucker  on  the  same 
date — 

'*The  other  day  the  first  instalment — only  lOO  or 
so — of  the  Luganda  St.  Matthew,  which  had  been 
printed  in  England,  arrived  at  last.  We  are 
naturally  extremely  anxious  to  get  anything  that  we 
can  manage  to  get  translated,  printed  and  sent  back 
without  loss  of  time.  I  have  begun  the  attempt  at 
a  grammar  which  you  recommended  me  to  make, 
and  in  another  month  I  expect  to  have  ready  what 
would,  I  think  I  can  say,  (though,  of  course,  it 
would  have  many  little  faults  and  deficiencies)  be  a 
great  help  to  new  men  coming  out.  I  have  got 
Natives  to  translate  from  Swahili  (making  use  both 
of  the  Bible  and  the  '  Picture  Bible  '  in  Swahili)  a 
good  many  Old  Testament  stories  ;  these  are  meant 
especially  for  teaching  children,  although,  while  we 
are  without  an  Old  Testament  in  Luganda,  they 
would  be  also  generally  useful.  Henry  Duta  and 
I  have  also  begun  and  nearly  done  half  of  the 
Acts.  In  another  month  I  hope  this  will  be  finished 
too.  I  believe  we  could  dispose  of  2,000  at  least  of 
any  small  book  in  Luganda  at  cost  price.  The 
books  which  have  hitherto  come  have  quite  failed 
to  satisfy  the  demand..  We  ought  to  aim  at  having 
the  books  as  small  and  hght  as  is  consistent  with 
good  printing  and  binding,  both  in  order  to  save 
cost  in  carriage  and   because  the  Waganda  are  far 


138  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

readier  to  buy  a  neat  book  and  one  which  they  can 
easily  carry  about  with  them,  than  anything  large 
and  clumsy.  If  you  could  see  the  eagerness  of  this 
people  for  books — I  am  glad  to  think  you  did  see 
something  of  it — how  they  swarmed  round  us  day 
and  night  while  the  books  lasted  and  after  they 
were  all  gone,  and  would  not  believe  that  there 
were  no  more  New  Testaments  or  St.  ]\[atthews  or 
reading-sheets  to  be  had,  you  would  be  as  anxious 
as  we  are  to  see  them  satisfied  at  last.  Even  the 
Roman  Catholics  buy  our  books.  Even  the  sending 
out  of  more  missionaries  is,  to  my  mind,  at  present 
scarcely  so  important.  With  native  books,  so 
many  here  are  already  capable  of  teaching  a  good 
deal." 

The  next  letter  tells  of  a  visit  to  one  of  the 
islands  rendered  necessary  by  an  attack  of  fever. 

"  Island  of  Sowe, 

V.  Nyanza, 

4th  July,   1 89 1. 

I  had  an  attack  of  fever  for  a  week,  and  so  De 
Winton  asked  me  to  come  here  for  a  change,  which 
I  did,  and  it  has  done  me  a  lot  of  good,  only,  alas, 
we've  missed  the  mail  and  my  vocabulary  is  here. 
Capt.  Williams  assured  me  that  the  mail  would  pass 
here,  but  it  did'nt.  We  are  negotiating  for  a  canoe, 
and  I  heartily  hope  we'll  get  one,  but  the  prospect 
is  dark. 

I've  started  the  Galatians  with  Henry.  Walker 
we  expect  back  from  Budu  every  day  ;  he  wants 
Baskerville    to   go   back   to  Budu  with  him,.      We 


A    LULL    IN   THE    STORM.  139 

hope  to  have  the  Church  started  now,  the  new  one, 
large  enough  to  accommodate  with  comfort  our 
large  and  increasing  congregations.  Smith  is  back 
in  Busoga,  Gordon  on  his  way  to  England.  We 
have  had  no  mails  yet,  and  so  we  don't  know  any 
more  about  Ashe's  coming.  The  Waganda  are 
tremendously  fond  of  Ashe. 

I  got  fever  going  through  a  marsh  on  my  way 
with  Baskerville  to  the  Mumenga,  a  big  chief,  who 
had  had  ulcers,  and  who  refused  to  use  medicine  on 
the  ground  that  God  could  cure  him  without.  We 
did'nt  know  of  this  abominable  marsh,  and  I  had 
hardly  reached  the  Mumenga's  when  fever  came  on, 
and  I  had  to  be  carried  back.  The  Mumenga  still 
refused  medicine,  but  agreed  to  use  water  for  his 
ulcers.  I  have  not  heard  since,  except  that  the 
poor  fellow  has  now  got  small  pox  ;  but  his  faith  is 
encouraging  to  see,  even  though  we  may  think  it 
mistaken  in  a  way. 

We  intend  to  go  back  to  Mengo  on  Monday, 
and  then  I  hope  I  shall  get  on  with  translation  all 
the  quicker  and  better  for  this  rest,  but  if  we  can't 
send  off  these  letters  and  my  vocabulary,  it  will  be 
a  great  disappointment.  I  should  not  have  dreamt 
of  coming  here  at  such  a  sacrifice. 

De  Winton  has  been  shooting  at  hippos  and 
crocodiles,  which  abound  here ;  we  believe  he  killed 
one  of  the  latter,  he  was  hit  and  careered  about, 
lashing  his  tail  and  showing  his  great  jaws,  but  we 
could'nt  actually  get  him.  If  we  had  a  good  boat's 
crew,  we  could  get  hippos,  but  our  paddlers  are 
afraid  to  go  near  enough ;  they  are  hideous  monsters, 


140  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

I  have  seen  them  quite  close.  We  have  wanted  to 
shoot  and  eat  some  parrots,  which  abound  here,  how- 
ever we've  been  unsuccessful  as  yet.  The  butterflies 
are  wonderful ;  there  are  honeysuckers  here,  green 
and  red  and  black;  also  a  fine  osprey.  Mosquitoes  are 
terrible,  but  De  Winton's  description  of  the  same  in 
Canada  throw  our  mild  experience  into  the  shade." 

A  letter  to  his  mother,  ten  days  later,  speaks  of 
another  attack  of  fever,  and  in  it  he  gives  his  opinion 
on  a  variety  of  topics.  Of  religious  papers,  he 
prefers  The  Christian,  as  he  finds  that  it  is  not  bitter. 
He  adds :  ''  The  Christian  deserves  its  name." 

His  order  for  articles  of  clothing  and  other  things 
gives  some  idea  of  his  views  as  to  dress  in  the 
Tropics.  It  is  evident  that  Jaeger  boots  must  not  be 
confounded  with  Jaeger  slippers  ! 

"14th  July,   1 89 1. 

If  you  could  order  me  a  fairly  decent  suit  of 
clothes,  not  too  heavy,  but  fairly  warm  and  large 
enough — I  don't  mind  if  they  are  a  size  or  two 
too  big ;  but  tight  clothes  in  this  country  are  an 
abomination.  Also  a  couple  of  football  sweaters — 
R.  will  tell  you  what  they  are — and  a  couple  of 
Pyjama  (is  that  right)  suits,  rather  warmer  than  the 
last  (which  were  just  what  I  wanted,  only  I  like 
warmer  things  now),  and  a  few  pairs  of  socks,  a  pair  of 
slippers  (leather  wears  better  than  Jaeger),  and  six 
pocket  handkerchiefs.  Could  you  get  these  things 
packed,  and  sent  out  to  Boustead,  Ridley  and  Co.  ; 
also  some  rennet  powder  and  baking  soda." 

The   doings   of    the    next   few   months   are    well 


A    LULL    IN   THE    STORM.  141 

described  in  the  following  series  of  letters,  some  to 
Mr.  Eugene  Stock,  and  some  to  his  mother  :— 

"  Namiiembe,  Uganda, 

August  nth,   1 89 1. 

The  mail  arrived  this  afternoon.     I  am  alone  (of 
our  missionaries)  here. 

BaskerviUe  went  to  Budu,  intending  to  come  back 
for  a  while,  at  any  rate,  in  a  month.     The  month 
will  be  up  in  a  week  or  ten  days,  but,  m  a  letter  1 
cot   from   him   on  arrival    at   Masaka,  he  spoke  of 
staying  longer,  as  he  would  be  delayed  in   visitmg 
Zekanya's  place,  because  the  p^tty  kmg  of   Koki 
Kamswaga,  had  come  into  Budu,  and,  being  jomed 
by  the  Roman  Catholics,  had  burnt  and  destroyed 
several   houses   and  gardens,   including  Zekanya's. 
I  was  alarmed  by  the  first  reports  that  reached  us 
of  this    business  :    '  The   Pokino  killed  !     Three  of 
Walker's   boys,    whom    he   left    at    Masaka   durmg 
his   recent  visit   to   this   place,    murdered  !        This 
would  have  been  terrible.     Walker  is  very  fond  of 
his  boys;  so  are  we  all,  but  Walker  especially,  per- 
haps.     But,    thank   God,    things   were,    as   usual, 
immensely  exaggerated. 

Now  about  things  here.  Politics  (how  I  ha  e 
them,  but  I  suppose  they  are  necessary  evils.) 
hinder  the  work  more  than  anything.  When  1 
came  back  from  the  island  of  Sesse,  after  a  week  s 
change  to  try  to  shake  off  fever,  the  country-  was 
terribly  excited:  we  all  of  us  (Walker  and 
BaskerviUe  were  here  then)  really  apprehended  war, 
or   at  any  rate,  that  the  Protestants  would  leave  the 


142  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

country.  This  was  caused  by  a  proposal  from 
Captain  Williams  to  abolish  the  agreement  made 
between  the  two  parties,  and  to  permit  chiefs  (all 
of  whom  now  hold  office  qua  Protestant  or  Roman 
Catholic,  appointed  by  one  or  other  party)  who 
change  their  religion  to  retain  their  chieftainships. 
We  should,  of  course,  be  delighted  to  see  full 
religious  liberty,  but  the  people  do  not  understand 
it,  and  the  Protestant  party  was  very  resolute 
against  accepting  the  proposal ;  this  was  because, 
whereas  the  Roman  Catholics,  in  the  choice  of  their 
chiefs,  had  been  guided  by  the  priests,  and  had 
appointed  consistently  the  most  thorough-going 
Roman  Catholics,  our  party,  on  the  other  hand, 
were  guided  by  general,  at  least  as  much  as  by 
religious,  considerations  (e.g.  hereditary  claims, 
fitness  other  than  religious) — Gordon  and  Walker 
refusing  to  choose  the  chiefs.  Well,  the  other  day, 
the  Roman  Catholic  Bishop  claimed  '  religious 
liberty  '  from  Captam  Williams,  on  the  ground  that 
the  country  was  under  the  British  flag ;  our  party 
answered  that  if  that  were  the  case,  and  we  were 
really  under  British  government  and  therefore  we 
could  have  British  justice,  let  Captain  Williams 
hoist  the  English  flag,  and  let  us  follow  British 
customs ;  he  tried  to  do  so,  but  the  attempt  did  not 
succeed,  the  Roman  Catholics  and  the  king  refusing 
point-blank. 

Well,  this,  and  the  division  of  the  islands,  and  the 
innumerable  cases  of  men  turned  out  of  gardens, 
houses  destroyed,  goods  stolen,  &c.,  &c.,  has 
occupied  every  one  for   weeks  past.     At   first,    the 


A    LULL    IN    THE    STORM.  143 

church  was  empty  on  week-day  mornings,  but  a 
day  or  two  after  Walker  and  Baskerville  went, 
I  made  a  round  of  visits  to  various  chiefs,  urging 
them  to  be  patient  and  aim  at  '  peace  at  any 
price,'  and  to  come  and  bring  their  people  in  the 
mornings.  Since  then  we  have  always  had  fair 
and  sometimes  very  large  (500  or  600)  congregations 
— on  weekdays,  I  mean  ;  on  Sundays,  the  church 
is  crowded  out.  During  this  time  I  have  started 
giving  them  Bishop  Ryle  on  St.  Matthew  every 
morning  after  the  '  reading  '  is  over  ;  the  '  reading  ' 
means  that  the  people  are  divided  into  classes, 
each  with  a  leader,  who  translate  the  Swahili 
of  various  books  of  the  New  Testament  into 
Luganda,  with  exposition  (as  far  as  they  are  able). 
When  I  come  into  church  after  my  breakfast, 
between  seven  and  eight  o'clock,  I  attach  myself  to 
the  senior  class,  of  which  Henry  Wright  Duta  is  the 
leader  (when  he  is  here  ;  he  has  just  gone  off  to  a 
garden  lately  received).  My  arrival  is  the  signal  for 
the  class  to  turn  from  St.  Matthew  to  Romans,  which 
we  read  and  translate.  Someone  first  reads  it  in 
Swahili,  the  reader  then  reads  it  clause  by  clause, 
and  the  fir>t  reader  translates  into  Luganda,  cor- 
rected by  the  leader.  Then  they  appeal  to  me  for 
explanation,  which  I  attempt  to  give,  but  most  of 
them   find   Romans  '  kizibu  nyo  '  (extremely  hard). 

Ten  days  ago,  Duta  and  Sembera  came  to  me  on 
a  Sunday  to  say  they  could  not  preach  in  church 
(I  generally  preach  at  one  Sunday  service,  and  one 
of  the  six  who  have  the  Bishop's  license  at  the  other) ; 
they  had  '  not  been  taught  to  preach  ;  what  was  the 


144  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

good  of  preaching  if  they  had  not  proper  words  to 
preach  ?  '  To  tell  you  the  truth,  I  think  them  quite 
fit  to  preach,  but  I  did  not  say  so  exactly  (though 
I  showed  it  by  still  asking  Henry  to  preach  as 
arranged  that  afternoon,  and  Sembera  the  next 
Sunday),  but  told  them  that  a  knowledge  of  one's 
own  ignorance  is  the  beginning  of  knowledge  (and  if 
Socrates  is  to  be  trusted,  the  end,  too),  and  we 
arranged  an  afternoon  daily  class  for  these  two  and 
Johana  Mwira,  to  which  also  Nataneli  Mudeka  came, 
a  very  nice  young  fellow,  just  made  a  church  elder. 
These  meetings  are  rather  handicapped  by  politics 
just  now,  and  by  Henry's  departure  to  the  country. 
We  started  on  Romans  again  ;  the  first  eight  verses 
of  chapter  iii.  were  a  terrible  puzzle.  They  could 
not  grasp  them,  so  we  left  them  for  the  next  day  ;  I 
in  the  meanwhile  to  make  a  Luganda  translation, 
much  amplified  and  simplified,  which  I  did  with  the 
help  of  Conybeare  and  Howson,  and  I  believe  they 
understood  them  the  next  day. 

I  started  translating  Galatians  two  months  ago 
with  Henry  :  fever  and  politics  interrupted  me,  after 
finishing  the  first  chapter,  till  to-day.  To-day 
Sembera  and  I  started  again.  I  am  translating 
Genesis  with  Noah  (here  called  Nuwa),  who  came 
with  us  from  the  coast.  These  thino's,  and  looking 
after  the  boys  and  place,  and  visiting  for  an  hour  or 
two  most  afternoons,  keep  me  very  busy.  I  visited 
two  of  the  Roman  Catholic  chiefs  lately,  who  gave 
each  a  goat.  I  have  since  been  given  two  more  by 
the  Roman  Catholics,  to  the  great  delight  of  my 
boys,  who  eat  the  lion's  share  of  it. 


A   LULL    IN   THE    STORM.  145 

\\  e  have  some  melons  coming  on  in  our  garden  ; 
also  wheat  and  potatoes  !  We  have  great  reason  for 
thankfulness  for  the  healthiness  of  this  country, 
greatly  owing,  I  believe,  to  the  comparative  variety 
and  excellence  of  its  food,  and  clean  water. 

I  have  the  names  of  thirty-six  chiefs,  who  have 
offered  to  build  for  and  feed  a  European  residing  at 
their  place.  I  could  easily  add  to  this  if  I  tried,  but 
surely  this  is  enough  to  show  what  is  wanted.  At 
most  of  these  places,  a  good  number  of  the  people 
have  already  learnt,  or  are  learning,  to  read.  The 
outlay  would  be  (the  missionary  once  in  the  country) 
next  to  nothing,  and  who  can  estimate  the  returns  ? 
The  Baganda  have  already  begun  to  go  out  to  preach 
in  other  countries  (in  Busoga  and  Usukuma).  J 
believe  that,  with  God's  blessing,  this  ought  to  be 
the  centre  of  African  Christianity,  sending  the 
messengers  of  peace  east  and  west,  north  and  south. 
We  have  here,  I  believe,  the  fulcrum  by  means  of 
which  to  work  Africa  (and  is  it  not  Archimedes  who 
could  move  the  whole  earth,  if  only  he  had  a 
fulcrum  ?),  but  the  lever  must,  in  the  first  instance, 
be  Europeans,  men  of  God,  who  do  not  mind  being 
used  as  levers  in  Africa  or  elsewhere  in  God's  hands. 
— I  wrote,  '  who  do  not  mind,'  but  when  I  read  it, 
it  sounds  almost  blasphemous  ;  '  not  mind  '  being 
in  God's  hands  for  His  work  !  Could  there  be  a 
safer,  a  happier  position  ?  Could  there  be  a  greater 
privilege  ?  " 

"  September  14th,  1891. 

A  long  time  has  passed  since  I  began  this  letter, 
and  a  lot  of  things  have  happened.      News  came 

L 


146  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

yesterday  from  Captain  Lugard,  and  the  Company 
are  sending  a  mail  to-day,  so  I  must  wind  up  as 
shortly  as  possible. 

On  the  day  after  I  wrote  the  beginning  of  this 
letter,  I  saw,  in  the  Intelligencer,  that  Ashe  was 
translating  Genesis ;  so  I  left  the  eight  chapters  I 
had  done, and  w^ent  on  to  Exodus.  I  hope  to  send 
by  this  mail,  and  indeed  with  this  letter,  the 
Galatians ;  I  hav3  no  time  to  write  to  Gordon  or 
the  Bishop.  I  also  enclose  a  table  of  Luganda 
concords,  which  I  hope  will  be  printed  soon,  and  a 
few  copies  sent  to  us  here. 

Smith  is  here  now ;  he  was  ill  on  the  road. 
Captain  Williams  was  extremely  kind  in  fetching 
him,  also  in  visiting  me  w^hen  I  had  a  week  of  fever, 
a  fortnight  ago.  Baskerville  has  had  fever  three 
times  in  Budu.  My  last  was  my  twentieth  attack  in 
fifteen  months.  Smith  brings  a  much  more 
encouraging  account  of  work  in  Busoga  ;  I  hope  one 
of  the  new  men  will  go  there  till  Ashe's  coming 
(which  we  expect  in  about  a  month — he  is  due  at  the 
south  of  the  Lake  to-morrow).  Smith  is  going  to  a 
place  on  the  Busoga  road  near  the  Nile,  and  there- 
fore in  the  Buganda  province  of  Kyagwe — about 
three  day's  from  here ;  they  have  offered  to  build 
him  a  church  there.  The  elders  are  choosing  four 
Waganda  Christians  to  go  with  him  and  occupy 
this  place  and  three  others,  all  within  three  or  four 
hours  of  each  other.  Smith  will  superintend,  going 
from  one  to  the  other.  I  hope  to  have  a  sort  of 
dismissal  service  before  they  all  start.  Smith  now 
says  the  people  of  Busoga  are  anxious  to  learn,  and 


A   LULL   IN   THE   STORM.  147 

friendly,  and  even  Wakoli  is  friendly.  The  Church 
agrees  to  support  entirely  the  Waganda  working  in 
Buganda.  When  Ashe  comes,  I  hope  it  will  be 
possible  to  do  the  same  as  in  Kyagwe  in  the  country 
between  this  and  Budu,  the  provinces  of  the  Katam- 
bala,  Kasuju,  and  Kayima.  There  will  then  be  left 
the  province  of  Singo,  and  with  it  that  of  the 
Kitunzi,  and  the  province  of  Bulemezi :  these  two 
provinces  are  to  the  north,  and  have  no  lake-shore, 
and  are  therefore  most  exposed  to  the  Mohammedan 
attacks,  and,  at  present,  are  not  thickly  peopled.  Four 
more  men  are  needed  for  them.  Suppose  six  men 
come  in  a  month,  we  might  have  three  in  Budu 
(Walker  and  Baskerville  have  their  hearts  set  on 
Budu),  one  in  Katambala's  country,  three  in  Mengo, 
one  in  Kyagwe,  two  in  Busoga.  Sesse  should  be 
occupied.  We  ought  to  have  twenty  men. 
Kavirondo  might  be  occupied  soon ;  Smith  is 
longing  to  go  there." 

Later  in  the  same  day,  he  writes  to  his  mother  : — 
*'  This  morning,  two  Waganda  came  to  me  to  offer 
to  teach  in  the  Katambala's  country ;  two  more  for 
Bulemezi.  These  were  men  selected  by  the  church 
elders.  They  are  looking  out  men  for  Singo.  Praise 
God !  They  have  been  clearly  told  to  expect  no 
wages  except  from  God.  They  are  to  be  fed,  housed, 
and  clothed  at  the  expense  of  the  Church  here. 
There  are  besides  four  men  for  Kyagwe,  where  Smith 
goes  in  a  few  days.  But  we  must  have  Europeans 
to  superintend.  Baskerville  has  had  three  attacks 
of  fever  in  Budu.  I  had  my  twentieth  dose  a 
fortnight  ago ;  now  I  am  looking,  everyone  says,  and 


148  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

feeling  better  than  I  have  been  since  my  fever  at  the 
coast.  Any  amount  of  work  to  be  done.  Every 
morning,  if  I  can  manage  it,  I  teach  in  the  church. 
Deekes  has  printed  ten  of  my  hymns,  and  I  am 
teaching  them  these.  I  visit  a  great  deal  and  am 
received  with  the  greatest  kindness  and  hospitality 
by  all.  The  other  day,  I  went  to  the  king  to  ask 
for  canoes.  On  his  promise  of  thirty,  I  sent  nine 
cakes  of  Pears'  unscented  soap  and  about  two 
pounds  of  the  commonest  washing  soap — this  as  an 
earnest  of  what  would  come  if  our  thirty  canoes 
really  appeared.  To-day,  he  sent  me  down  ten 
magnificent  bunches  of  plantains,  weighing,  I 
suppose,  3cwt.,  and  a  magnificent  fat  sheep  (in  the 
last  few  days,  by-the-bye,  the  leopards  have  taken  a 
goat,  a  kid,  and  a  sheep  of  ours).  The  sheep  must 
have  had  2lb.  of  fat  (splendid  for  frying)  in  its  tail. 
I  shall  boil  it  down  and  bottle  it.  I  have  quantities 
of  milk  and  butter.  I  have  bought  up  cows  in 
expectation  of  Ashe  and  his  party.  Every  European 
in  this  country  should  have  a  cow.  You  might  send 
me  a  small  box  of  very  strongly  scented  soap,  also 
some  intensely  powerful  scent.  With  two  such 
cakes  of  soap  I  could  buy  a  cow.  ...  I  want 
maps  of  Bible  countries,  Africa,  and  large  pictures 
for  hanging  up ;  all  for  teaching  a  large  number  at 
the  same  time.  Oh  !  for  a  magic  lantern.  Ashe  is 
due  at  Nassa  to-morrow.  One  of  the  chiefs  began 
his  house  to-day.  My  house  has  just  been  altered, 
and  is  now  most  comfortable  and  healthy.  .  .  . 
I  am  drinking  tea  and  eati  ng  Indian  meal 
bread — while   de   Winton   smokes      (alasl    he   goes 


A   LULL   IN   THE   STORM.  149 

to   join    Lugard   to-morrow).       Emin    has   dodged 

past  to  Wadelai,  after  ivory  no  doubt 

I  have  several  new  boys  now,  one  of  them  the 
naughty  httle  Bobby  Kayinga,  mentioned  in  '  Two 
Kings  of  Uganda.'  Ashe  to  come  in  a  month.  I  am 
very  well  indeed." 

"  Namirembe, 

8th  October,   1891. 

I'm  by  myself  still,  as  I  have  been  since  July 
20th,  but  for  Smith's  short  visit.  I  have  a  kind  of 
kitten  (a  '  mondo ' — it  will  be  nearly  as  big  as  a 
leopard),  three  grey  parrots  (which  I  have  been 
given  and  have  passed  on  to  my  boys),  and  a 
monkey,  with  which  the  boys  are  playing  now  in 
in  this  room.  He  is  a  great  delight  to  them,  most 
human  and  ridiculous,  awfully  afraid  of  me,  but 
bites  the  boys ;  desperately  fond  of  sugar-cane. 

I  have  been  teaching  the  hymns  which  I  have 
written,  and  reading  Jeremiah,  in  church,  with  some 
of  our  people.  I  have  written  to  Mr.  Stock,  pointing 
out  how  absurdly  few  we  are  in  this  country  for  the 
vast  work  there  is  to  be  done 

Our  potatoes  are  doing  well.  I  enclose  a  copy 
written  by  Mackay,  probably  a  good  many  years  ago, 
when  he  was  at  Natete  ;  also  a  letter  written  to  me 
by  the  Mugasi,  the  chief  of  the  soldiers,  a  Roman 
Catholic,  in  which  he  calls  me  Pere  Kitene,  being 
accustomed  to  Peres  among  the  French  priests; 
also  a  letter  written  in  the  King's  name  for  him,  by 
the  same  chief,  asking  for  paraffin  oil,  the  first  in 
Swahili,    the    second    in    Luganda.       Observe    the 


150  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

Royal  signature,  'Kataka  Mwanga'  (King  Mwanga); 
also  a  letter  from  Sembera  Mackay,  a  most  excellent 
man 

This  climate  is  not  perfection.  I  call  no  climate 
perfect  wherein,  if  you  stand  outside  for  five  minutes 
while  sun  is  shining,  with  double  felt  hat  on  and 
umbrella  up,  at  any  time  between  9  a.m.  and  4  p.m., 
you  feel  (if  you  are  G.L.P.,  or  like  him)  the  effects 
of  it  for  an  hour  afterwards  in  faintness  and  head- 
ache. .  .  .  You  might  just  as  well  be  in  a 
Turkish  bath  all  day  as  to  be  here,  or,  rather,  a 
great  deal  better,  for  here  decency  demands  clothes. 
It's  a  grand  farming  climate  I've  no  doubt,  damp 
and  broiling." 

For  some  time  Pilkington  had  been  feeling 
urgently  the  need  of  more  workers.  This  is  summed 
up  in  a  letter  to  Mr.  Eugene  Stock. 

"  Namirembe,  Mengo,  Uganda, 

October  2nd,  1890. 

I  sit  down  to  utilize  a  few  moments  this  evening 
by  writing,  in  the  hope  that  I  may  be  able  to  say 
something  that  may  show  people  in  England  how 
much  we  want  men  here.  You  see  I  write  in  the 
hope  that  you  will  be  able  to  find  something  in  this 
letter  which,  if  put  into  any  of  your  papers,  might 
induce  some  at  home  to  come  to  the  help  of  the 
Lord  against  the  mighty. 

And  let  me  first  say  that  for  more  than  ten  weeks 
I  have  been  here  now  by  myself,  except  for  Smith's 
short  visit,  which  lasted  a  fortnight  only,  and  he 
was   half  an   invalid.      People   may   blame   us   for 


A    LULL    LN    THE    STORM.  151 

leaving  one  man  (and  he  not  in  orders)  here  alone 
for  so  long.  But,  in  the  first  place,  Baskerville  was 
to  have  come  back  in  a  month,  but  was  hindered 
by  fever,  &c.  Secondly,  how  can  we  stand  by  and 
see  the  whole  country  occupied  by  the  Roman 
Catholic  priests  (there  are  eleven  of  them,  besides 
^frcres,''  I  believe ;  and  ten  or  fourteen  coming), 
especially  when  a  previous  occupation  is  a  ground 
which  the  Company  wdll  recognize  for  refusing 
permission  to  the  opposite  party  to  go  into  any 
territory  ? 

At  the  same  time,  'here  am  I  alone  here,  with 
work  enough  ready  to  hand  for  ten  men  in  England, 
not  to  say  here,  where  hitherto  about  one  day  out 
of  every  four  is  lost  owing  to  fever,  and  the  remain- 
ing three  none  the  better  in  consequence.  We 
have  every  morning  in  our  church  from  lOO  to  300 
eager  learners,  for  three  hours,  from  6  or  7  a.m.  to 
g  or  10  a.m.  Most  of  the  teaching  is  done  by 
Natives  ;  I  drop  in  for  an  hour  or  so  (and  they  are 
grateful  for  this)  towards  the  end ;  with  my  other 
work  I  can't  do  more.  I  am  reading  Jeremiah  with 
them  now,  some  of  them  only.  If  we  had,  say,  a 
couple  of  Europeans,  with  time  enough  at  their 
disposal  to  prepare  the  morning's  lesson  thoroughly, 
and  to  wind  up  with  a  general  address,  I  have  no 
hesitation  in  saying  that  these  numbers  would  be 
doubled.  After  this  school  and  service  is  over,  I 
am  translating  each  morning  till  mid-day  Romans 
with  Henry  Duta ;  then,  after  a  hasty  meal,  I  sing 
with  all  the  boys  who  care  to  come  (teaching  the 
adults  to  sing  I  have  given   up   as  hopeless,  so  have 


152  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

the  French  priests)  ;  I  am  teaching  them  hymns  I 
have  written,  and  which  Deekes  very  kindly  printed 
at  Nassa.  In  the  afternoon,  I  translate  Exodus 
(two-thirds  are  done)  with  Noah.  In  the  cool  of 
the  day  I  visit,  and  this  is,  perhaps,  the  pleasantest 
work  on3  could  have  ;  everywhere  I  meet  with  the 
warmest  welcome.  I  visit  Protestants  and  Roman 
Catholics  alike.  Yesterday,  the  Kimbugwe,  the 
biggest  of  the  Roman  Catholic  chiefs,  gave  me 
*  bugenyi,'  or  a  guest-present  of  a  goat ;  the  second 
he  has  given  me.  In  all  this  work  I  feel  as  if  an 
ocean  lay  before  me  to  be  crossed,  and  I  were 
paddling  on  the  edge  of  it. 

Let  me  put  down  what  I  think  we  really  want, 
and  I  don't  want  to  exaggerate  in  the  least.  I  put 
down  so  many  men  for  each  sort  of  work,  not  that 
one  man  would  be  confined  to  any  one  work,  but 
merely  expressing  by  the  number  of  men  the  amount 
of  work  urgently  needing  doing  : — 

For  Mengo — 

Services     on     Sunday,     class      for 

teachers,  and  communicants'  class     i 
Class  for  catechumens  and  teaching 

daily  in  church      ...  ...  ...      i 

Visiting  and  teaching  in  houses      ...      i 
Doctor's  work,  accounts,  &c  ...     i 

Translation     ...  ...  ...  ...     i 

Itinerating    in    the    neighbourhood 

within  two  days     ...         ...         ...     i  (?  3) 

Substitute  in  case  of  fever  either  at 

Mengo  or  in  the  country  ...  ...     i 

Total  for  capital        ...     7 


A   LULL    IN   THE    STORM, 


153 


Kavirondo           

Busoga 

Budu        

Kyagwe 

Kalambala's       

Singo       

Bulemezi             

Islands    ...          

.       2 

.       2 

•     3 
.     I 
.     I 
1 
.     I 

.       I   (?  2) 

Total  for  elsewhere  . 

.    12 

Grand  total    ... 

..  ig 

Now  in  Uganda 

Expected             

..     4 
..     6 

Extra  men  urgently  needed    . 

10 

..     9" 

The  above  figures  might  easily  be  revised  and 
largely  added  to  in  view  of  recent  developments. 
It  is,  however,  exceedingly  interesting  to  notice 
the  careful  way  in  which  Pilkington  planned  out 
the  field,  as  he  often  did  later  on,  in  view  of  the 
needs  of  the  time.  Commenting  on  these  figures 
he  continues  : — 

"  This  is  without  counting  Koki  and  the  countries 
to  the  north,  or  Kikuyu,  &c.,  to  the  east.  Besides, 
the  Committee  ought  to  send  an  extra  number  of 
men  here,  in  view  of  illness  and  consequent  early 
returns  home,  and  deaths.  Walker,  I  expect,  will 
have  gone  by  the  time  the  next  lot  of  men  after 
Ashe  comes. 


154  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

The  expenses,  once  a  man  gets  here,  are  next  to 
nothing ;  the  eagerness  for  learning  is  the  most 
remarkable  thing  I  have  ever  seen  or  heard  of  in 
that  line. 

This  country  has  had  hitherto,  since  the  work 
was  started,  possibly  an  average  of  one  Protestant 
European  with  a  knowledge  of  the  language  ;  one 
book  only  of  the  Bible,  St.  Matthew,  has  been  hitherto 
put  into  the  hands  of  the  Natives  in  their  own 
language,  and  yet  God  has  used  such  very  small 
efforts  in  an  amazing  way,  so  much  so  that  I  fully 
believe  that  if  a  number  of  missionaries  at  all 
approaching  what  this  country  has  a  right  to  expect, 
considering  what  these  men  have  borne  for  Christ's 
sake,  and  their  eagerness  to  be  taught,  and  their 
readiness  to  welcome  and  support  teachers — if  this 
were  done,  I  believe  we  should  soon  have  Waganda 
missionaries  working  throughout  Central  Africa. 
To  occupy  completely  this  country  now  is  to  put 
out  the  resources  of  the  Society  at  loo  per  cent, 
interest ;  to  miss  the  opportunity  of  doing  so  is  to 
allow  this  country,  and  with  it,  perhaps,  the  whole 
of  Central  Africa,  to  become  (God  forbid  !)  Roman 
Catholic.  I  remind  you  that  I  have  the  names  of 
39  chiefs  (and  if  I  tried  I  daresay  I  could  make  it 
lOo)  who  are  ready  and  anxious  to  support  with 
native  food  and  build  for  a  missionary.  Having 
eased  my  mind  by  writing  this  letter,  which  I  hope 
you  will  believe  keeps  clearly  on  the  near  side  of 
exaggeration,  although  I  am  an  Irishman,  I'll  stop 
for  to-night.  No  more  news  of  Ashe ;  Baskerville 
expected." 


A    LULL    IN    THE    STORM.  L55 

"Sunday,  October  4th,   1891. 

It  is  about  twelve  o'clock,  and  I  am  just  out 
from  church,  where  Henry  Duta  preached  an 
excellent  sermon  to  our  usual  congregation  of  a 
thousand  or  so  ;  '  the  roaring  lion  conquered  by, 
and  to  be  conquered  through,  Jesus  alone.'  I  write 
now,  just  while  I  feel  strongly  what  the  sight  of 
that  congregation  and  the  hearing  of  Henry  Wright 
Duta's  sermon  roused  in  me. 

I  am  astonished  that  more  men  haven't  come 
here,  considering  the  opportunities.  Where  are  all 
the  Christian  men  I  knew  at  Cambridge  ?  I  look 
for  their  names  in  every  mail,  but  they  are  few  and 

far  between.     Why  don't    men  such  as  Mr. "' 

[here  Pilkington  mentions  several  well-known 
Evangelical  clergymen]  ?  "  They  would  find  here  as 
fine  a  field  for  work  as  in  the  whole  world.  Our  work 
here  is  the  evangelization  of  Africa,  aud  how  can 
we,  young  and  inexperienced  as  we  are,  take  proper 
charge  and  direction  of  a  work  so  difficult  and  so 
vast  ?  When  I  think  of  myself  here  by  myself,  with 
a  large  church,  needing  teaching  and  guiding  and 
correcting,  with  hundreds  reading  daily  and  bring- 
ing all  their  '  knots  '  to  be  '  untied '  to  me,  with 
marriage  difficulties  naturally  arising  in  a  country 
just  reclaimed  from  heathenism,  and  then  think  of 
all  England's  resources  for  Christian  teaching,  it 
does  seem,  I  was  going  to  say,  ridiculous,  but  I 
would  rather  say,  a  cause  of  wonder,  and  shame, 
and  tears. 

The  two  facts  that  impress  me  most  strongly  in 
this  country  are,  the  smallness  of  England's  efforts 


156  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

for  this  country,  and  the  greatness  of  what  God  has 
been  pleased  to  do  in  spite  of  it.  Why,  if  Spurgeon 
or  Moody  were  to  come  here,  they  would  soon  have 
audiences  of  immortal  souls  (faces  black,  no  doubt, 
if  that  makes  any  difference)  as  large  as  any  they 
address  in  England  or  America,  and  more  receptive, 
and  less  hardened,  and  far  more  grateful. 

I  had  hoped  that  the  example  of  Mr.  A.  O. 
Williams,  a  vicar  in  Leeds,  who  went  out  to  China, 
would  have  been  largely  followed.  To  tell  you  the 
truth,    I    was   thinking   the    other   day    of    writing 

myself  to    Mr. "    (one   of    the   clergyman    Mr. 

Pilkington  had  mentioned  above),  "and  suggesting 
that  he  should  come  here ;  but  perhaps  that  would 
seem  to  him  a  piece  of  interference  and  impertinence. 
But  all  the  same,  I  can't  but  believe  it  would  be  a 
cause  of  rejoicing  to  the  Church  on  earth,  and  to 
God  in  heaven,  if  he,  and  such  as  he,  did  come. 

There  are  several  of  these  Waganda  now,  who 
are  fit,  with  a  little  systematic  teaching,  to  go'  out 
as  missionaries  far  and  wide.  What  we  want  is 
that  (i.)  these  men  should  receive  the  teaching  they 
need,  and  (ii.)  that  the  whole  spiritual  tone  of  the 
Church  here  should  be  so  raised  as  to  press  out 
these  its  best  men  to  far  countries.  If  there  is  any 
truth  about  Missions  which  all  parties  accept  as  an 
axiom,  it  is  '  Africans  for  Africa,'  and  here  are  men 
all  but  ready  to  supply  this  long-felt  need  ;  and 
what  makes  it  more  urgent  still,  is  that,  if  these  men 
are  not  soon  working  for  us,  or  rather  for  the 
Gospel,  they  will  be  against  the  Gospel  in  the  ranks 
of  Roman    Catholicism.       Of  course,    in    this   last 


A    LULL    IN    THE    STORM.  157 

sentence  I  refer  to  the  Waganda  generally,    not  to 
the  few  to  whom  I  referred  above." 

Thus  for  the  greater  part  of  i8gi  the  mission 
work  at  the  capital  was  carried  on  with  only 
temporary  interruptions,  due  to  political  difhculties. 
Meanwhile,  events  were  being  enacted  in  other 
places  which  have  had  a  profound  bearing  upon  the 
subsequent  history  of  Uganda. 

Captain  Lugard,  upon  whom  lay  the  onerous  task 
of  administering  the  government  of  the  Uganda 
district,  as  the  representative  of  the  British  East 
Africa  Company,  found  himself  severely  handi- 
capped, owing  to  the  want  of  suitable  soldiers. 

At  the  same  time,  he  knew  that  there  was  within 
no  great  distance  from  Uganda,  and  within  the 
territory  which  had  been  secured  for  British  influence, 
a  large  body  of  Sudanese  under  the  command  of 
Selim  Bey,  who  had  formerly  been  in  the  service  of 
Emin  Pasha,  and  who  had  been  left  behind  when 
Mr.  Stanley's  expedition  started  for  the  coast. 

Not  only  did  Captain  Lugard  feel  that  they  might 
form  a  valuable  acquisition  to  his  fighting  force,  but 
he  considered  that  it  was  absolutely  necessary  to  do 
something  to  provide  for  these  men,  who,  if  left  to 
themselves,  might  prove  a  source  of  great  danger 
within  the  British  sphere. 

He  therefore  entered  into  negotiations  with  Selim 
Bey,  whom  he  met  at  Ravalli's  on  Lake  Albert  Ny- 
anza,  and  eventually  came  to  an  arrangement  with 
him,  by  which  he  and  his  men  were  to  serve  under 
Captain  Lugard,  provided  permission  were  accorded 
by  the  Khedive,  as  he  regarded  himself  as  pledged 


158  PILKINGtON    OF    UGANDA. 

to  continue  in  the  service  of  the  Khedive,  and  he 
refused  to  enter  into  any  binding  contract  without 
leave  from  him. 

Another  difficulty  arose  from  the  fact  that  Selim 
Bey,  as  Captain  Lugard  tells  us,  "  w^ished  to 
stipulate  that  he  should  remain  in  absolute  control 
of  his  men."  This,  however,  could  not  be  allowed, 
and  eventually  ''  Selim  had  to  give  in." 

The  number  of  Sudanese  left  in  Selim  Bey's  force 
was  about  600  fighting  men. 

Of  these,  some  were  distributed  throughout  a  chain 
of  forts  established  on  the  border  of  Unyoro,  whilst 
others  were  brought  on  to  Uganda  for  garrison  duty 
there. 

On  his  return  to  Uganda,  Captain  Lugard  found 
heavy  news  awaiting  him,  to  the  effect  that  the 
British  East  Africa  Company  had  decided  to  with- 
draw from  Uganda. 

To  be  obliged  to  repudiate  the  solemn  treaties 
which  had  just  been  concluded,  and  to  abandon  the 
country  to  anarchy,  was  felt  by  those  carrying  on 
the  government  in  Uganda  to  be  as  dishonourable 
as  it  would  be  disastrous,  and,  happily,  the  matter 
presented  itself  in  that  light  to  people  at  home. 
Missionaries  had  not  sought  the  protection  of  the 
arm  of  flesh,  but  now  that  a  civilised  government 
had  undertaken  responsibilities  with  regard  to  the 
country,  it  was  felt  that  it  could  not  so  lightly 
dismiss  them. 

Bishop  Tucker  was  in  England  at  the  time,  and 
lo  st  no  opportunity  of  representing  the  true  state  of 
the  case,  and  much  sympathy  was  aroused,  and  the 


A   LULL    IN   THE    STORM.  159 

conscience  of  England  was  touched.  It  was,  how- 
ever, given  to  the  friends  of  the  Church  Missionary 
Society  to  afford  more  practical  proof  of  their  sym- 
pathy than  mere  paper  resolutions,  and  when,  on 
October  30th,  i8gi,  Bishop  Tucker  had  told  his 
story  at  the  annual  meeting  of  the  Gleaners'  Union 
a  fund  was  started  by  the  friends  of  the  CT^LS. 
gathered  at  that  meeting,  though  not  officially 
connected  with  the  Societ}^,  which  produced  a  sum 
of  no  less  than  ;fi6,ooo.  This,  with  a  sum  of 
;f  20,000  contributed  by  the  Directors  of  the  Imperial 
British  East  Africa  Company  and  their  friends, 
enabled  them  to  continue  the  occupation  of  Uganda 
for  another  year,  the  British  name  was  saved  from 
what  would  have  been  lasting  disgrace,  and  one 
more  step  was  taken  towards  the  consolidation  of 
that  part  of  the  British  Empire,  which  lies  in 
Eastern  Equatorial  Africa. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


CIVIL    WAR. 


"  We  are  living  on  a  volcano,"  writes  the  Rev.  G. 
K.  Baskerville  in  his  journal  on  December  4th, 
i8gi — "  the  whole  country  is  in  a  ferment.  The 
Roman  Catholics  started  all  the  trouble  by  sending 
men  to  destroy  the  Melondo's  place  in  Kyagwe. 
He  is  one  of  our  biggest  and  most  respected  chiefs. 
Wisely,  he,  before  taking  any  hasty  measures,  went 
to  consult  Captain  Williams,  who  told  him  to  go 
and  defend  his  property.  Accordingly  yesterday  he 
went,  and  the  king  (i.e.  the  Roman  Catholics)  has  sent 
four  Roman  Catholic  chiefs  after  him  to  kill  him ! 
Here  our  friend  Mwanga  has  put  his  foot  into  it, 
and  deserves  no  mercy  at  the  hands  of  the 
Company.  Well,  Williams  went  to  the  king  and 
told  him  that  unless  he  sent  counter-orders  to  stop 
these  men  he  would  fight  with  him.  Our  people 
have  acted  nobly  and  kept  from  violence  ;  we  went 
to  see  one  chief  who  was  for  fighting  at  once,  but 
he  promised  to  refrain  out  of  respect  to  our  opinion 
and  advice.  If  the  Protestants  throw  themselves 
upon  the  Captain  and  do  nothing  rash,  they  will 
win;  but  if  they  act  independently  they  will  lose. 
They  are  now  waiting  to  hear  from  the  messengers 

160 


CIVIL    WAR.  161 

sent  after  the  chiefs  who  had  gone  to  fight  the 
Melondo.  If  he  has  been  killed  there  will  be  war, 
and  it  will  mean  the  expulsion  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  party,  for  Williams  will  aid  the  Protestants 
as  being  the  aggrieved  party.  To-morrow  will 
bring  us  news.  If  there  is  fighting  we  are  to  go  up 
to  the  camp,  leaving  only  one  of  our  number  here 
to  protect  the  property.  Our  going  will  show  the 
people  that  we  have  no  wish  to  meddle.  Pilkington, 
knowing  the  language  and  people,  will  stop  if  it  is 
necessary  for  us  to  go.  Dear  plucky  old  Sembera 
Mackay,  he  has  visited  the  king  when  no  one  else 
would  go !  He  has  gone  unarmed.  One  of  the  big 
Roman  Catholic  chiefs  ordered  his  men  to  fire  on 
him,  but  no  one  dared  to  do  so,  and  he  walked  past 
all  into  the  king's  enclosure.  Then  he  went  to  see  the 
Kimbugwe,  the  chief  of  the  Roman  Catholic  party, 
and  got  him  to  call  in  his  men  ;  he  then  went  to  the 
camp.  Captain  Williams  has  been  this  evening, 
and  expressed  himself  greatly  pleased  with  the 
conduct  of  the  Protestants.  Being  prohibited 
from  walking  out,  we  spent  an  hour  in  sowing 
vegetable-seeds  in  our  garden.  '  In  Jesus'  keeping 
we  are  safe  and  they.'     Good-night. 

"  Dec.  5th. — The  morning  rose  tumultuous ; 
murmurs  of  war  and  incessant  noise  and  parading 
of  men.  Of  course  no  work  could  be  done.  About 
noon  we  could  hear  the  Mujasi's  war-drums.  He  is 
a  Roman  Catholic,  and  was  the  first  on  a  former 
occasion  to  commence  ;  then,  he  pleaded  drunken- 
ness as  an  excuse.  Our  people  have  behaved 
grandly.  They  have  taken  no  step  without  the 
M 


162  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

Captain's  permission.  One  chief  of  ours  was  on 
his  way  quietly  home  at  about  four  o'clock,  when 
we,  from  our  garden  where  we  were  walking, 
saw  a  Roman  Catholic  chief  fire  four  times  on  his 
men.  One  man  was  clubbed  in  the  jaw,  and  a 
general  melee  seemed  unavoidable.  The  people, 
however,  saw  the  folly  of  leaving  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  capital  to  avenge  a  petty  insult,  and 
resolved  to  wait  till  Williams  could  be  consulted. 
My  man,  Tito,  was  asked  to  go  off  to  the  camp, 
which  he  did,  and  saw  the  Captain.  The  Roman 
Catholic  chief  is  to  send  his  guns  to  the  camp. 
But  the  people  are  still  waiting  news  of  Melondo's 
fate ;  this  will  bring  matters  to  a  crisis.  If  he  is 
killed,  nothing,  it  would  seem,  can  avert  terrible 
war.  We  hear  that  Martin  has  crossed  the  Nile, 
and  should  therefore  be  here  by  Wednesday.  We 
can  have  no  public  services  to-morrow,  for  it  would 
never  do  for  the  people  to  assemble  as  a  body." 

The  next  letter  from  Pilkington,  written  on 
December  7th,  1891,  shows  how,  amid  all  the 
turmoil,  the  work  steadily  progressed. 

"  We  have  just  avoided  war  by  the  skin  of  our 
teeth  for  the  third  or  fourth  time.  I  am  thankful 
to  say  the  provocation  (as  Captain  Williams 
admitted)  was  mainly,  if  not  entirely,  on  the  Roman 
Catholic  side  this  time.  Had  there  been  war.  Captain 
Williams  would  have  helped  the  Protestants. 

Till  this  disturbance,  our  work  was  going  on,  to 
all  external  appearance,  splendidly,  ten  or  twelve 
classes  each  morning  (Roscoe  was  able  to  start  one 
with   Sembera's   help,    in    Swahili,    as    soon    as    he 


CIVIL    WAR.  163 

came),  and  between  500  and  700  people  in  church 
each  morning,  then  a  class  for  teachers  and  others 
at  2  p.m.  for  Pilgrim's  Progress.  I  had  sixty  people 
(twelve  boys,  the  rest  adults)  who  want  to  be 
baptized.  I  hope  some  of  these  will  be  baptized 
next  Sunday.  The  intelligence  and  the  earnestness 
of  some  of  them,  and  of  others  who  were  baptized 
a  fortnight  ago,  has  struck  me  very  much,  and  given 
me  great  encouragement  and  pleasure,  not  for  their 
own  sakes  only,  but  because,  being  all  pupils  of  our 
elders,  their  clear  knowledge  in  many  cases  of 
Gospel  truth,  and  evident  earnestness,  are  the 
surest  evidence  of  the  fitness  of  those  who  taught 
them.  I  wish  I  could  send  you  in  full  some  of 
Henry's  sermons.  Some  of  them  have  been  logical 
forcible,  interesting  Scriptural  explanations  of  the 
work  of  Christ  for  sinners.  He  is  a  very  able  man  ; 
he  would  be  above  the  average  in  Europe.  I  doubt 
that  he  has  his  equal  in  ability  in  Africa.  How  far 
his  superiority  is  due  to  the  Universities'  Mission 
(he  was  with  them  at  Zanzibar),  I  do  not  know  ; 
but  certainly  his  sermons  are  compositions,  not 
rambling  discourses,  and  are  delivered  admirably. 
Ephesians  and  Philippians,  and  some  of 
Colossians  and  i  Timothy,  I  have  translated  with 
Henry  and  Sembera ;  I  am  waiting  to  finish 
Genesis  and  Exodus,  in  order  to  get  all  the 
New  Testament  done  first.  If  that  could  be 
printed  and  sent  out  quickly  we  would  thoroughly 
revise  it.  I  want  to  get  time  for  studying  the 
language  more  thoroughly  than  I  have  yet  been 
able  to  do  ;  perhaps  I   may  be  able  to  succeed  in 


164  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

this  when  Ashe  comes,  of  whom  we  know  only  that 
he  left  Usambiro  about  a  month  ago.  I  hope  to 
enclose  two  grammatical  sheets  which  I  have  made, 
and  which  Collins  has  copied  two  or  three  times,  so 
that  the  men  have  a  sort  of  substitute  for  a 
grammar.  Martin's  caravan  is  expected  in  two 
days  ;  Captain  Lugard  by  Christmas. 

Oh,  for  books  and  reading-sheets  !  and  slates  and 
slate-pencils  !  and  men  !  It  is  delightful  beginning 
to  be  able  to  teach  these  people  who  are  so  eager  to 
learn,  not  by  pouring  a  flood  of  wisdom  over  them, 
as  one  might  pump  water  on  a  duck's  back,  but 
by  question  and  answer  (teaching,  when  one  has 
anything  worth  knowing  to  teach,  is  the  noblest 
calling  in  the  world).  To  preach  in  a  language  is 
easy  comparatively,  but  to  teach  in  it — but,  till 
one  can  do  that,  it  is  not  much  good.  But  are 
there  not  many  in  England  who  love  teaching, 
and,  above  all,  teaching  the  truth  of  God,  who  have 
but  little  scope  at  home  ?  They  would  find  a  field 
here,  teaching  young,  teaching  old,  teaching 
morning,  noon,  and  night ;  and  oh,  so  warmly 
appreciated,  so  attentively  listened  to,  so  gratefully 
remembered  as  Mackay,  and  O'Flaherty,  and  Ashe, 
and  Gordon  are." 

"December  14th,  1891. 

Mail  goes  to-morrow;  I  have  addressed  Ephesians, 
Philippians,  Colossians,  and  my  two  sheets  to  you. 

Henry,  in  preaching  yesterday  on  the  loaves  and 
fishes,  said  that,  really,  for  those  who  think,  the 
growth   of    the    plantains   on   the  tree    is    just   as 


CIVIL    WAR.  165 

wonderful ;  '  fools  say  it  grows,  because,  I  suppose, 
it  is  its  nature  '  ;  but  really  it  is  a  miracle.      And, 
if  a  miracle   is  a  thing   which   we    cannot    in    the 
least  understand,  he  was  right,  and  I  believe  that 
this  thought  was  original  on  his  part. 

Forty  -  seven  persons — thirty  -  three  men,  four 
women,  and  ten  boys — were  baptized  yesterday.  I 
had  had  classes  for  them  for  some  time,  and  finally 
examined  each  one  separately  (six  I  told  to  wait  till 
I  could  teach  them  further) ;  the  forty-seven  seemed 
to  me  to  have  an  intelligent  trust  in  Christ  as  their 
own  Saviour,  and  an  honest  desire  to  lead  a  new  life 
by  His  help  :  pray  for  them  especially,  and  for  us. 

The  'Nalinya'  (queen-sister)  brought  four  girls 
yesterday,  whom  she  asked  me  to  prepare  for 
baptism.  I  am  wondering  whether  Henry's  wife 
could  help  in  this  work  ;  it  shows  that  ladies  are 
wanted  here." 

The  next  development  of  the  political  situation 
is  described  in  private  letter  from  Pilkington. 

"  Namirembe,  Mengo, 

December  27th,  1891. 

I  am  writing  to-day  (the  anniversary  of  our 
arrival  in  Buganda)  to  tell  you,  while  I  remember 
clearly,  some  events  of  this  morning  which  will 
interest  you.     This  morning     ....     about  6.30 

a.m I  heard   Henry    calling  to  one  of 

my  boys.  I  answered  him,  and,  getting  out  of  bed 
and  putting  on  some  clothes,  called  him  in.  He 
and  Sembera,  Samwili,  Mika,  and  Stefano  had 
come   to   tell  me  that  the  king  wished  to  become  a 


166  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

Protestant,  having  quarrelled  with  the  Roman 
Catholics.  I  took  them  into  Roscoe's  house  and 
we  consulted  about  it.  The  king  had  sent  them  to 
us.  We  told  them  finally  to  tell  the  king  that,  in  so 
far  as  the  matter  was  a  political  one,  it  was  none  of 

our  business We  further  advised  them 

to  do  nothing  till  they  had  consulted  with  Captain 
Williams.  We  then  had  prayer  with  them  and 
they  went  to  Captain  Williams.  He,  we  hear,  will 
not  allow  the  king  at  present  to  become  a 
Protestant,  as  it  would,  he  says,  mean  war,  and  an 
alliance  between  the  Roman  Catholics  and  Moham- 
medans. We  shall  do  nothing  more  in  the  matter 
at  present.  The  king's  proposal  comes,  I  suppose, 
only  from  political  motives.  Really  we  have  not 
much  to  do  with  it." 

"  December  28th,  10.30  p.m. 
I  am  sitting  up  to-night  till  midnight,  when 
Collins  is  to  relieve  me,  and  then  Roscoe  him, 
because  threats  of  burning  our  houses  down  have 
been  made  by  the  Roman  Catholics.  Last  night, 
their  temporary  Church  was  burnt  down,  we  suppose 
most  likely  by  some  of  the  king's  people,  six  of 
whose    houses   the    Roman    Catholics    have    lately 

burnt  down,  besides  killing  four  men 

The  Pokino  has  just  been  round  to  see  our  guard, 
and  he  brings  the  news  that  the  king  has  returned 
to    the    Roman    Catholic    side,    having    received   a 

present His  people  of  the  capital, 

thirty   in    number,    have,    however,    determined    to 

join   the    Protestant   side It    is    a 

terrible  pity  that,  at  this  critical  time,  we  have  not 


CIVIL    WAR.  167 

more  men,  and  especially  more   men   who   know,  if 

not  Luganda,   at   least   Swahili These 

houses,  if  fired  once,  burn,  every  scrap  of  them,  like 
tinder,  only  more  so ;  hence  our  precautions.  A 
chap  can  steal  up  and  throw  on  a  smouldering 
torch,  and  your  first  warning  is  the  smell  of  smoke 
and  the  crackling  of  the  fire,  which  is  almost 
inextinguishable." 

"January  20th,  1892. 
I  ought  to  have  told  you  how  I 
went  to  the  king,  after  the  events  I  started  with, 
and  asked  to  see  him  alone,  as  I  had  things  to 
speak  of  which  I  thought  he  would  rather  hear 
in  private.  He  turned  out  all  his  chiefs,  keeping 
one  man  only  with  him.  I  then  explained  what 
we  thought  of  his  proposed  turning  Protestant; 
I  told  him  his  soul  was  of  no  more  value  in  our 
sight,  or  in  God's,  than  the  meanest  of  his  subjects, 
and  that  we  w^anted  real,  not  nominal  Protestants. 
I  reminded  him  of  his  father  Mutesa's  opinion,  that 
*  the  English  had  the  truth.'  I  began  this  by 
saying,  '  Your  father,  Mutesa,  was  a  clever  man,' 
to  which  he  answered  the  single  word,  '  Kitalo,' 
which  means,  a  marvel.  I  finally  told  him  to  do 
what  he  believed  God  wished  him  to  do." 

On  January  igth,  Pilkington  gives  voice  to 
the  great  desire  for  further  books  and  reading- 
sheets  in  a  letter  to  Mr.  Wigram,  of  which  the 
following  is  an  extract. 

"  I  cannot  express  the  earnest  longing  we  have 
for  these  books :  what  I  feel  is,  that  the  whole 
future  of  Africa  is  in  the  balances  here  now,  and 


168  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

delay  in  the  arrival  of  these  books  may  tell  fatally. 
I  believe  any  expense  ought  to  be  incurred  to 
deliver  these  books  at  the  very  earliest  opportunity. 
It  is  terribly  trying  thus  writing  for  books  which 
don't  come,  or  if  they  do,  come  in  driblets  of  200 
or  500,  when  we  want  thousands  ;  500  Gospels  sell 
off  in  two  days  at  a  price  which,  at  any  rate,  fully 
pays  for  carriage. 

The  Roman  Catholics  are  rushing  in  in  the  mean- 
times.  We  pray  every  day  for  books  ;  really,  I 
think  that  men  are  less  important. 

The  new  Church  is  very  fine :  the  labour,  I 
calculate,  would  have  cost  ^j,ooo  at  threepence 
per  man  per  day.  I  don't  think  people  at  home  at 
all  realize  yet  what  a  fine  people  the  Waganda  are, 
and  what  an  opportunity  there  is  here  to  advance 
God's  Kingdom." 

A  few  days  later,  the  storm-cloud,  which  had  been 
so  long  gathering,  suddenly  burst,  but,  before  giving 
the  graphic  and  temperate  description  of  the 
conflict  and  the  circumstances  which  led  up  to  it 
from  the  pen  of  Mr.  Baskerville,  it  may  be  as  well  to 
remind  ourselves  of  the  description  of  the  political 
parties  in  Uganda  which  have  been  already 
mentioned.  We  use  the  word  "  political "  advisedly, 
for,  though  they  bore  religious  names,  their  aims  were 
political  rather  than  religious,  and,  as  a  further 
confirmation  of  this,  we  learn  that  the  Roman 
Catholic  party  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  Protestant 
on  the  other,  were  known  as  the  Wa  Franza  and  the 
Wa  Inglesa. 

The  cause   of   this  unfortunate    division    of    two 


CIVIL    WAR.  169 

professedly    Christian    parties   is   not   far   to   seek. 

Picture  a  small  body  of  men  at  work  in  the 
centre  of  gross  heathenism,  seeking  to  lead  the 
people  to  a  knowledge  of  the  true  God  and  of  His 
Son  Jesus  Christ. 

Just  as  they  are  beginning  to  gain  an  influence 
over  the  people,  another  party  of  men  appears  on 
the  scene,  of  a  different  nationality  and  teaching  a 
different  creed,  and  bearing  in  their  hands  large 
presents  with  which  to  ingratiate  themselves  with 
the  chiefs  and  people. 

Is  it  a  wonder  that  the  people  of  Uganda  were 
bewildered,  and  that  between  the  followers  of  each 
Mission  there  grew  up  a  rivalry  which  permeated 
the  whole  life  of  the  people  ? 

None  could  regret  this  state  of  things  more 
than  the  Protestant  Missionaries,  and,  as  far  as 
possible,  they  tried  to  steer  clear  of  such  con- 
troversies. It  was  impossible,  however,  not  to  be 
affected  by  such  a  state  of  things  as  Mr.  Baskerville 
describes. 

"  Namirembe,  Uganda, 

January  31st,   1892. 

I  know  you  will  like  some  particular  account  of 
the  terrible  events  of  the  last  few  days.  I  wrote  to 
you  a  long  letter  when  in  Budu,  telling  you  some- 
thing of  the  state  of  the  country  with  reference  to 
the  work  of  the  Company,  and  also  with  reference 
to  the  position  of  the  two  great  religious  parties. 
Some  six  weeks  ago,  I  think  anyone  who  had  been 
in   Uganda,  during  the  first  twelve  months  of  the 


170  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

Company's  administration,  would  have  said  that  the 
country  was  rapidly  quieting  down   again   after  its 
past  troubles.     The  policy  of  the  Company  had  been 
one  which,  taking   the  goodwill   of  the   Protestant 
party  for  granted,   had   always  rather  favoured  the 
Papist    party;     most    careful    had    both    Captains 
Lugard  and  Williams   been   to  let   no   national  or 
religious  prejudices  seem  in  any  way   to   influence 
them   in  their  administration.     A  year  had  passed 
since  the  expedition  commanded  by  Captain  Lugard 
had    arrived   here   at    the  capital,   just  a  few   days 
previous  to  the  arrival  of  Bishop  Tucker  and   his 
party.     War  had  been  staved  off  from  time  to  time, 
the    Company   contriving   to    balance    the    parties ; 
meanwhile,  the  Protestants  ceding  point   after  point 
for   the  sake  of  avoiding   collision.     The  Resident 
has  certainly  done  all  in  his   power  to  avoid  war — 
even  swallowed  personal   insults  rather  than   undo 
the  work  of  twelve  months — and  it  has  been  with 
the   greatest  regret   that   he  has   been  forced    into 
violent    measures.     Troubles  began   to   brew  about 
the  middle  of  last  month,  just  after  the  Company's 
new  steel  boat  had  left  for  the  south  end  of  the 
Lake,  commanded  by  Mr.  Bagge.     But,  before  this, 
it  had  been  proved  on  some  four  occasions  that  the 
Protestants  were  the   aggrieved  party.     First,  some 
six  months  ago,  in  August,   a  number   of  houses  in 
the   capital    were  burnt   wantonly   by   the    Roman 
Catholics,  including  the  place  of  Ham  Mukasa,  a 
man  who  was  wounded  in  the  battle  of  Rubaga  Hill. 
Second,    in    Budu,    Kamswaga,    King   of  Koki,    a 
country  south-west  of  Budu,   was  sent  for,   it  was 


CIVIL    WAR.  171 

said,  by  the  king,  to  turn  the  Protestants  out  of 
Budu  ;  this  was  done  to  a  great  extent,  and,  because 
of  the  unsettled  condition  of  the  country,  I  was 
unable  for  a  month  to  move  on  from  Walker's  place 
at  Masaka.  Third,  with  regard  to  Kaganda,  one  of 
the  islands  which  had  been  secured  to  the  Protestant 
party,  the  Roman  Catholics  sent  one  hundred  guns 
to  turn  out  the  chief  sent  by  the  king.  Fourth,  about 
the  middle  of  December,  the  Mulondo,  a  prominent 
Protestant  chief  in  Kyagwe,  hearing  that  his  place 
was  likely  to  be  attacked,  asked  leave  to  go  down 
and  protect  it.  Leave  was  refused  by  the  king,  but 
Captain  Williams  told  him  to  go.  On  this,  the  kmg 
despatched  four  leading  Roman  Catholic  chiefs,  with 
five  hundred  guns,  with  orders  to  kill  the  Mulondo 
wherever  they  found  him.  This  angered  Captain 
Williams,  and  he  told  the  king  that  he  must  at  once 
send  off  messengers  to  stop  these  men  ;  and  further^ 
he  told  us  that  if  the  Mulondo  were  to  be  killed, 
that  the  camp  would  be  forced  into  war,  which 
meant  taking  the  Protestant  side  and  probably 
driving  out  the  Papists  from  the  country.  The 
messengers  were  recalled,  and  so  the  affair  blew 
over.  On  December  gth,  a  large  caravan  for  the 
Company  had  arrived,  bringing  a  great  quantity  of 
ammunition.  This  had  put  the  king  into  a  great 
state  of  excitement,  and  the  day  after  Christmas 
Day,  the  king  sent  a  message  to  the  Katikiro,  saying 
that  he  wished  to  become  a  Protestant.  He  saw  that 
the  power  was  on  the  Protestant  side,  a  large 
caravan  had  arrived.  Captain  Lugard  had  returned 
as  far  as  Budu  with  a  large  number  of    Sudanese 


172  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

soldiers,  recovered  from  the  two  regiments  of  Emin 
Pasha's,  left  after  Stanley  had  passed  on  to  the 
coast.  And  he  had  been  put  in  a  further  state  of 
alarm  by  the  Kimbugwe,  the  leading  Roman 
Catholic  chief,  sending  a  party  of  men  to  destroy  all 
his  bhang  pipes.  These  men  had  burned  one  of  the 
king's  houses  and  killed  four  men.  That  night,  he 
asked  for  a  Protestant  guard  to  stand  over  his  place. 
The  Roman  Catholics  then  came  to  our  party,  pro- 
posing to  depose  the  king  and  put  one  of  Kalema's 
sons,  his  nephew,  on  to  the  throne.  To  this  the 
Protestants  would  not  agree.  Mwanga  was  bad,  but 
what  could  they  hope  from  a  boy  who  had  been  in 
training  at  the  Roman  Catholic  station  of  Bukumbe, 
near  Usambiro  ?  Accordingly,  the  king  saw  that  the 
tirrte  was  come  for  the  weather-cock  to  shift.  He 
was  not,  however,  to  be  allowed  to  change  his 
religion  so  easily.  The  French  Bishop,  the  plan  of 
deposing  him  being  frustrated,  thought  that  it  would 
never  do  to  lose  the  king  from  the  Papist  party,  and 
went  out  and  put  the  enormity  of  his  sin  before  him, 
exhorting  him  to  come  to  confession.  '  First,'  said 
Mwanga,  '  I  must  have  a  present.  My  men  have 
been  killed,  and  my  house  burned.'  '  All  right,'  says 
Monseigneur,  '  you  shall  have  forty  tusks  of  ivory.' 
^  As  soon  as  I  get  them,'  says  the  king,  *  you  shall 
confess  me.'  Captain  Lugard  reached  Mengo  on 
December  31st,  and  we  at  once  felt  the  position  of 
the  Company  secure  in  the  country.  We  had  heard 
news  a  little  before,  that  the  English  papers  were 
talking  of  the  probable  early  withdrawal  of  the 
Company  from  Uganda,  and,  about  the  same  time. 


CIVIL    WAR.  173 

arrived  a  fresh  party  of  French  priests,  who,  it  is 
evident,  gave  this  information  to  their  people,  repre- 
senting to  the  king  that  this  was  only  a  trading 
Company,  and  that  it  would  be  against  their 
interests  to  fight ;  and,  further,  that  if  they  were 
about  to  withdraw,  and  if  the  Roman  Catholic  party 
held  out  a  little  longer,  they  would  soon  have  every- 
thing their  own  way.  You  will  see,  as  I  go  on,  how 
this  gave  great  confidence  again  to  the  king,  and  caused 
him,  so  far,  to  defy  the  power  of  the  Company  as  to 
challenge  them  to  fight  him. 

On  Friday,  January  22nd,  about  mid-day,  we 
heard  three  or  four  shots  fired  quite  close  by,  and 
reports  came  in  to  say  a  Protestant  had  been 
murdered  by  the  Roman  Catholics.  The  Protestants 
immediately  went  to  report  the  matter  to  Captain 
Lugard,  also  telling  him  that  the  Roman  Catholics 
were  guarding  the  body  and  refused  them  leave  to 
take  it  away  for  burial.  Lugard  immediately  left  to 
see  the  king,  when  he  was  kept  waiting  for  two 
hours — in  itself  a  great  insult  to  a  Commissioner  of 
the  Queen.  At  last,  he  was  taken  in  to  the  king, 
who  professed  ignorance  of  the  whole  occurrence, 
and  asked  the  chiefs  sitting  round  to  tell  him  the 
whole  story.  Lugard  said  that  before  he  could  hear 
anything,  the  body  must  be  removed,  for  it  was  a 
disgrace  to  the  king  and  his  country.  A  Roman 
Catholic  and  Protestant  were  immediately  sent  off 
to  remove  the  body.  Captain  Lugard,  too,  reminded 
the  king  how  that,  when  he  had  first  come  to  the 
country,  he  had  told  him  that,  owing  to  the  state  of 
affairs  and  that  a  murder  would  probably  cause  civil 


174  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

war,  any  murderer  must  be  executed.  The  king  said 
he  remembered  all  this,  and  that  the  words  were 
very  good.  Captain  Lugard,  not  feeling  well  after 
his  long  waiting  in  the  sun,  left  Du  Wallah,  a 
Somali  in  whom  he  places  great  confidence,  to  be 
present  at  the  subsequent  trial.  The  man  was 
brought  in,  and  told  the  following  story  : — His  gun 
had  been  stolen  from  him  by  one  of  the  Katikiro's 
men,  and  he  had  taken  his  case  before  the  Katikiro, 
who  had  promised  to  see  his  gun  restored,  if  his 
story  should  be  proved  true.  Two  or  three  days 
elapsed  without  anything  being  done,  and  then  this 
man  thought  that,  as  he  had  not  been  given  another 
gun,  he  had  better  try  and  take  one  from  the  Protestants 
by  force.  Accordingly,  he  made  a  regular  plot.  He 
bought  some  beer  and  sat  in  his  gateway  offering  it 
for  sale — the  plan  being  to  take  the  gun  from  the 
first  Protestant  who  should  offer  to  buy  it.  He  had 
several  companions  ready  to  help  him,  and  two  men 
inside  his  fence  with  loaded  guns.  A  man  presently 
came  by,  and  came  up  to  buy  the  beer,  asking  first 
to  taste  it.  An  argument  then  arose,  and  a  man 
slipped  behind  him,  seized  his  gun,  and  the  whole 
party  rushed  into  the  fence.  The  Protestant  and 
his  friends  followed,  and  were  fired  on  by  the  two 
men  with  guns  inside,  one  shot  killing  the  man. 
The  Protestant  fired  one  shot  without  effect.  The 
king,  on  hearing  that  the  thief  had  been  followed 
into  his  fence,  said  that  he  was,  by  the  law  of  Uganda, 
justified  in  the  subsequent  murder,  and  that  the 
prisoner  must  be  set  at  liberty.  It  was  late  before 
Du  Wallah  returned,  but  early  next  morning  he  was 


CIVIL    WAR.  175 

sent  back  with  a  note,  asking  the  king  to  reconsider 
this  decision,  and  telHng  him  that,  if  he  persisted  in 
it,  he  would  lead  his  country  into  war.  For  some 
time  Du  Wallah  was  not  admitted,  but  he  insisted 
on  delivering  the  letter  into  the  king's  own  hand. 
With  the  king  were  the  Kimbugwe,  the  Kanta,  and 
the  Musalosleb,  all  leading  Roman  Catholic  chiefs. 
The  latter  read  the  letter  to  the  king,  and  when  he 
came  to  Lugard's  words  about  probable  war  if 
this  decision  was  adhered  to,  the  king  caught  him 
up,  saying,  'What's  that  he  says  about  war  ?  Let 
him  come  and  fight,  if  he  will ' ;  and  all  the  others 
began  to  laugh  at  Du  Wallah.  Du  Wallah  told  the 
king  that  he  was  a  Mohammedan,  and  that  he  had 
no  leaning  to  either  Roman  Catholics  or  Protestants, 
but  that  he  had  never  known  such  an  obviously 
unfair  and  rotten  judgment  given  anywhere  ;  and  that 
he  could  assure  the  king  that  Captain  Lugard  had 
done  his  best  to  avoid  war  and  give  justice  to  all 
parties.  'What  answer  shall  I  take  to  my  master?' 
said  Du  Wallah.  The  Kanta  said,  '  Tell  him  that, 
if  he  fights,  we  shall  take  all  his  wealth,  and  wipe  out 
the  English  from  the  country.'  This  was  too  much 
for  Captain  Lugard  to  stand,  and  he  sent  to  demand 
the  person  of  the  murderer  ;  if  he  were  given  up, 
the  insulting  message  would  be  pardoned.  Our 
people  went  to  the  king,  and  asked  him  why,  when, 
in  an  exactly  similar  case,  one  of  the  Mugema's 
men  had  killed  a  Roman  Catholic,  the  Mugema  had 
been  fined  ?  The  king  talked  about  exchanging 
bodies,  and  so  being  quits.  No,  said  our  men,  we 
have  other  grievances  besides  this  for  which  we  have 


176  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

never  had  justice  at  all.  Captain  Lugard,  the  king 
and  Roman  Catholics  seeming  determined  to  defy  him, 
resolved  at  last  on  stringent  measures.  On  Saturday 
night,  some  500  rifles  were  served  out  to  the  Protes- 
tant leaders  for  distribution,  and  a  large  quantity  of 
ammunition  ;  for  even  then  Lugard  hoped  that  it 
would  not  be  necessary  for  him  personally  to 
interfere. 

On  Sunday,  the  24th,  of  course  services  were  out 
of  the  question.  The  Katikiro  had  been  told  by  the 
Roman  Catholics  that  if  the  Protestants  did  not 
fight  they  were  a  pack  of  cowards;  and  further,  in 
the  morning,  as  Roscoe  had  Sembera  Mackay  and  a 
few  others  at  a  Bible  Reading,  we  heard  shots,  the 
outcome  of  which  we  soon  heard  had  been  the 
murder  of  a  man  belonging  to  the  Katikiro.  Further 
Bible-reading  was  abandoned,  and  soon  our  whole 
place  was  deserted.  We  went  off  to  have  a  short 
English  service  together ;  before  we  had  finished 
Sembera  came,  summoning  us  to  go  up  to  the  fort, 
for  both  sides  were  all  prepared  for  fighting.  We, 
however,  refused  unless  sent  for  officially  by  Captain 
Lugard,  and,  even  when  he  did  send  for  us,  we  said 
that  we  could  not  consent  to  go  and  leave  all  our 
things.  He  kindly  sent  forty  men,  and,  after  a 
quarter  of  an  hour's  hurried  packing,  we  were  off 
about  twelve  o'clock  to  Kampala.  At  the  market- 
place we  met  Sembera,  who,  on  hearing  that  most 
of  our  goods  were  still  left  behind,  said  he  should  go 
off  and  find  a  guard  for  the  station.  About  12.30 
we  arrived  at  the  camp,  and  as  we  were  quietly 
sitting  in   the  house  we   heard  four  guns.     Lugard 


CIVIL    WAR.  177 

had  previously  sent  demanding  the  original  murderer, 
the  murderer  of  the  morning,  and  the  Kanta,  who 
had  sent  the  insulting  message,  to  be  all  given  up. 
The  man  who  had  murdered  the  Katikiro's  man  was 
sent  in,  and  a  soldier  of  the  Company  who  had  been 
captured  in  the  morning  escaped.    The  Kanta  refused 


...-] 


^>^P''-^ 


Rough  plan  of  the  capital,  marking  the  chief  centres. 

to  come,  and  the  first  murderer  could  not  be  given 
up  at  all.  Well,  so  anxious  was  Captain  Lugard  to 
avoid  war  that  he  had  sent  a  further  message 
demanding  only  the  first  murderer  to  be  given  up, 
and  other  affairs  would  be  overlooked,  when  these 
four  gunshots  sent  us  all  flying  out  to  seek  the  cause. 

N 


178  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

We  saw  smoke  over  at  the  foot  of  Mengo,  close  by 
Mr.  Stokes's  garden,  and  soon  other  shots  followed 
in  a  regular  fusillade,  and  we  could  see  the  Papists 
fleeing  before  the  Protestants.  On  the  top  of 
Rubaga  Hill  was  some  sharp  fighting,  and  soon  the 
Roman  Catholic  new  church  and  houses  were  in  one 
immense  blaze,  and  the  Protestants  pushing  on  down 
the  farther  side  of  the  hill  towards  the  king's  fences. 
All  this  while  the  camp  Maxims  were  silent.  Captain 
Lugard  having  decided  not  to  interfere  unless  an 
attack  was  made  on  the  fort.  Presently  we  saw  a 
large  body  of  men  coming  down  the  opposite  hill 
from  the  Kimbugwe's  at  the  double,  obviously  making 
for  the  fort,  and  now  the  Maxims  both  opened  a 
deadly  fire.  The  Roman  Catholics  stopped  and 
stared  round,  not  knowing  who  or  what  was 
attacking,  but  when  they  realised  that  it  was  the 
cannon,  they  turned  round  and  ran  like  rabbits  in 
amongst  the  bananas.  We  hear  some  forty  w^ere 
killed  by  these  first  volleys  from  the  Maxims,  and 
and  the  Kimbugwe  and  Kanta  were  wounded  in  the 
former's  house,  where  they  thought  no  gun  could 
reach  them.  These  men  rallied  at  the  top  of  the 
hill,  and,  joined  by  the  men  of  the  Musalosalo, 
managed  to  drive  back  the  Katikiro  and  burn  his 
house.  Countless  houses  were  now  in  flames,  and 
one  could  scarcely  see  for  the  smoke.  The  Katikiro 
retreated  on  Kampala,  and  now  Captain  Lugard 
sent  out  Captain  Williams  with  the  Sudanese 
soldiers,  who  soon  settled  matters — the  Katikiro's 
men  and  Pokino's  re-formed  behind  him,  and  they 
went  on  burning  all  the  Roman  Catholic  houses  aiid 


CIVIL    WAR.  179 

driving  the  Papists  far  away  towards  the  Lake. 
Leniency  alone  prevented  them  from  driving  them 
right  into  the  water.  The  Protestants  were  vic- 
torious, the  king's  flag  had  been  hauled  down,  but 
deep  sorrow  had  come  to  us — the  very  first  guns 
fired  had  killed.  Sembera  Mackay,  our  best  and  ablest 
man  and  most  deeply-taught  Christian.  He  had 
gone  to  find  a  guard  for  our  place,  and,  as  he  was 
passing  some  houses  where  some  of  the  king's 
slaves  lived,  he  was  shot  at  and  died  almost  imme- 
diately— dear,  brave  Sembera,  whom  ever}-  one 
loved,  and  of  whom  I  never  heard  a  disparaging 
word,  has  entered  into  his  reward — and  we  are  left 
to  sorrow  over  his  loss,  and  to  trust  our  God  to 
supply  his  place.  Two  other  Church  elders  have 
been  wounded,  and  two  Protestant  chiefs,  one  badly 
so.  The  doctors  have  their  hands  full  every  day 
now,  and  I  expect  never  had  such  work  before. 
Rubaga  Hill  had  been  taken  by  the  Mugema  and 
Pokino,  together  with  the  Mwanika — they  were 
never  once  repulsed,  but  carried  everything  before 
them.  It  had  been  impossible  to  bring  the  priests 
over  to  the  fort,  and  their  station  was  manned  by 
Roman  Catholic  chiefs  who  made  a  determined 
resistance ;  one  of  their  black  Hausa  doctors,  who 
foolishly  fought  in  person,  was  shot  dead.  The 
priests  were  all  conducted  to  the  fort  the  same 
evening,  their  place  being  a  total  wreck. 

We  returned  the  same  evening  to  our  station,  the 
whole  of  the  Roman  Catholics  having  fled.  The 
king,  with  some  300  guns,  had  fled  to  the  small 
island  of  Burungugi,  just  half  a  mile  from  the  shore, 


180  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

about  two  hours  from  Mengo.  Here  he  had  his  store 
and  had  sent  all  his  wives  and  wealth,  and  here 
it  was  that  the  Christians  so  long  withstood  the 
Mohammedans.  Here  they  thought  that  they  were 
quite  safe,  remembering  the  unsuccessful  attacks  of 
the  Mohammedans.  The  great  object,  of  course,  of 
the  Company  was  now  to  get  hold  of  the  king  and 
restore  him  to  his  throne,  knowing  that  he  was  a 
mere  puppet,  and,  if  once  in  their  hands,  would  do 
all  they  told  him — of  course  they  did  not  want  the 
old  chiefs  back  again,  but  the  king  alone.  They 
sent  several  messages  asking  him  to  return,  but  he 
sent  back  to  say  that  he  wished  to  come  but  was 
guarded  and  unable  to  escape.  Friday  morning  the 
French  Bishop  came  to  say  he  wished  to  leave  the 
fort,  but  Lugard  refused  him  several  times  officially. 
At  last  he  came  to  say  that  unless  he  was  forcibly 
detained  he  should  go,  for  these  were  his  orders  from 
Rome.  Accordingly,  he  went  with  all  the  priests 
except  two,  who,  however,  followed  soon  afterwards. 
He  promised  Lugard  to  persuade  the  king  to 
return,  and  pass  on  himself  to  Sesse,  and  when 
there  do  all  he  could  to  protect  Mr.  Bagge, 
who  is  daily  expected  back  with  the  boat,  and 
also  to  send  messages  to  Budu  to  his  people 
to  protect  Ashe,  Walker,  and  Smith,  who  are  there 
at  Masaka.  He  did  none  of  these  things,  but  went 
to  the  king,  and  he,  abetted  by  Kisali,  a  blacksmith, 
a  former  pupil  of  Mackay,  against  the  wish  of  all 
the  Roman  Catholic  priests  and  chiefs,  refused  the 
king  permission  to  return  to  Mengo.  Does  it  not 
seem    as    if    the    French    Mission    is    just    God's 


CIVIL    WAR.  181 

appointed  instrument  to  complete  the  confusion  of 
Rome  here  in  Uganda  ?  He,  moreover,  sent  to 
Lugard  to  come  with  his  Maxim  and  kill  all  the 
Roman  Catholics  on  the  island  and  then  he  might 
get  the  king  !  Little,  I  expect,  did  he  think  that 
this  would  be  so  literally  done.  Yesterday,  at 
10  a.m.,  Captain  Williams  marched  out  with  one  of 
the  Maxims  and  some  hundred  soldiers,  together 
with  the  majority  of  the  Protestant  party ;  he  hid 
his  force  on  the  Lake  shore  in  the  trees,  watching 
his  opportunity.  Presently  two  women  of  the 
king's  came  off  to  get  food  in  a  canoe,  and  he  sent 
out  two  soldiers  to  take  them  prisoners;  the  canoe- 
men,  seeing  this,  made  off  to  inform  the  people  on 
the  island.  Two  of  the  French  priests  camped  on 
the  beach  of  the  island  now  came  out  and  fired  at 
the  soldiers.  These  shots  and  the  report  of  the 
canoe-men  soon  brought  all  the  Roman  Catholics 
to  the  shore,  and  some  entered  some  of  the  canoes 
to  come  across  and  recover  the  women,  evidently 
thinking  that  only  a  few  peasants  had  seized  them. 
Meanwhile,  W^illiams  had  his  Maxim  brought  into 
position,  and  I  expect  they  were  surprised  at  the 
warm  reception  they  met  with — the  people  on  shore 
were  quickly  fleeing,  and  eleven  canoes  were  sunk. 
On  the  first  noise  of  firing,  the  French  Bishop  went 
to  the  king,  and  when  he  ascertained  that  it  was 
really  the  camp  soldiers,  he  got  into  the  king's  one 
canoe,  and  they  made  off  together,  and  we  hear  are 
now  in  Sesse  Island.  The  paddlers,  on  the  first 
noise  of  shots,  had  all  made  off,  and  thus  the 
Roman  Catholic  part\-  were  left  absolutely  without 


182  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

canoes.  Many  tried  to  make  rough  rafts  of  reeds 
and  leaves,  which  quickly  sank.  The  Mujadi,  one 
of  the  principal  Roman  Catholic  chiefs,  fought 
furiously,  and  finally  hid  himself  amongst  the  trees, 
and  has  not  yet  been  found.  The  Kangoo  was 
killed,  and  a  great  number  of  the  Roman  Catholics, 
but  not  one  man  of  ours  was  so  much  as  wounded. 

The  camp  and  people  are  making  every  exertion 
to  recover  the  king,  who  they  feel  sure  is  kept  back 
against  his  will.  If  it  should  prove  impossible  to 
get  him,  the  Mohammedan  King  Mbogo,  Mutesa's 
brother,  will  be  invited  in  as  king.  The  people  are 
very  strong  on  royalty,  and  would  prefer  Mwanga 
back  to  anybody  else,  in  spite  of  all  his  failings." 

A  letter  of  Pilkington's,  dated  April  ist,  tells  of 
the  King's  return,  "having  given  the  Roman 
Catholics  the  slip,"  and  so  he  says,  "  there  is  a 
prospect  of  peace  and  security  and  firm  government." 
With  regard  to  the  result,  he  continues  in  the  same 
letter,  "  the  rejoicing  here  is  tremendous.  I  hope 
the  work  won't  suffer  for  all  this  political  success ; 
however,  it  has  been  God's  doing.  You  know  very 
well  that  this  is  not  the  sort  of  thing  we  count 
success,  or  care  for,  except  in  so  far  as  it  opens  the 
door  for  the  Gospel.  .  .  .  The  English  flag  at  last 
is  really  hoisted  on  Mengo." 

Reference  has  already  been  made  to  the  serious 
loss  to  the  Mission  caused  by  the  death  of  Sembera 
Mackay. 

Pilkington's  letter  about  him  furnishes  us  with 
such  a  beautiful  instance  of  his  power  of  sympathy, 
and  of  the  brotherly  relations  existing  between  him 


CIVIL    WAR.  183 

and  his  African  colleagues,  that  with  it  we  may  fitly 
close  this  sad  story  of  civil  war  in  Uganda. 

"  Namirembe,  Uganda, 

25th  January,   1892. 

Dearest  Mother, — 

I  must  write  to  you  to-night,  though  I  can 
hardly  see  for  tears,  and  my  heart  is  bursting  with 
sorrow.  Our  faithful  friend,  our  dear,  dear  Brother, 
Sembera,  was  shot  yesterday  ;  awful  day.  The  very 
first  to  fall ;  fittest  for  death ;  God  took  him. 
Praise  to  His  Name,  but  we  are  left  bereaved.  Oh, 
Mother,  you  don't  know  how  I  loved  him,  and  love 
him  still  with  all  my  soul  ;  everyone  loved  him  ;  the 
best,  the  bravest,  the  noblest,  the  wisest.  Never  to 
see  his  kind  face  in  this  w^orld  again,  or  hear  his 
cheery  voice,  and  I  was  safe  in  Kampala  ;  I  couldn't 
even  bid  him  good-bye  for  the  last  time.  But  good- 
bye or  no,  God  was  with  him,  for  he  walked  with  God. 

Our  joy,  our  comfort,  our  right  hand  is  gone  ; 
praise  be  to  God  who  gave  us  such  a  treasure  for  a 
while,  and  now  has  taken  it  to  Himself;  but  it  is 
hard  to  flesh  and  blood.  He  is  a  loss  greater  than 
any  almost  I  can  think  cf  to  our  work  here;  he  was 
respected  by  both  parties,  and  his  humble,  useful, 
consistent  life  has  been,  and  will  be,  an  eloquent 
sermon  on  the  grace  of  God.  God  will  not  suffer 
His  Work  to  suffer, 

'  But  O  for  the  touch  of  a  vanish'd  hand, 
And  the  sound  of  a  voice  that  is  still.' 

His  is  the  joy  of  meeting  with   his  Lord  ;  ours  is  the 


184  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

pain,  and  the  sure  and  certain  hope  of  glory.     His 
dear  name  is  written  for  ever  on  my  heart. 

He  leaves  a  wife  and  a  baby  girl — one  of  his  boys 
has  asked  to  be  with  me.  His  last  words  were  : 
'  God  is  taking  my  soul.'  I  won't  in  this  letter,  or 
now,  write  of  the  other  events  of  that  sad  day. 
This  letter  is,  alas  !  heavy  enough,  when  it  has  this 
one  burden  to  bear,  that  '  a  prince  and  a  great  man 
has  fallen  to-day  in  Israel.' 

Your  loving  son, 

G.    L.    PiLKINGTON." 


CHAPTER    X. 


LANGUAGE    STUDY. 


The  war  over,  the  next  few  months  afforded 
splendid  opportunities  for  working  at  the  language. 
As,  however,  the  strain  of  recent  events  had  been 
rather  great,  Pilkington  was  persuaded  to  take  a 
holiday,  of  which  he  gives  the  following  realistic 
description : — 

"  It  was  on  Saturday,  26th  March,  that  I  started  for 
our  *  country  seat '  by  the  Lake  (if  I  may  so  call  it) ; 
it  is  called  Kuilwe,  and  is  a  peninsula  running  out 
into  the  Lake,  pretty  well  due  south  of  Mengo. 

As  I  was  going  partly  for  change — except  for  my 
visit  to  Sowe,  you  remember,  I've  been  in  the  capital 
for  fifteen  months — I  didn't  intend  to  rough  it  more 
than  I  could  help,  and  so  I  took,  not  only  our 
donkey  (ours  is  admittedly  the  best  in  the  country, 
his  only  rival,  also  ours,  had  to  be  left,  alas !  to  the 
tender  mercies  of  the  Roman  Catholics  in  Budu),  but 
also  one  of  my  cows  and  its  calf;  for,  in  this 
country,  a  calfless  cow  is  unmilkable  ;  I  wish,  by- 
the-way,  father  would  send  me  directions  thereanent 
(as  John  Paton  says  in  his  most  delightful  book, 
which  I've  been  again  reading  with  renewed  pleasure) 


186  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

when   and    how  should    a  calf  be  taken    from    its 
mother  ? 

You  will  like  to  hear  what  I  took  with  me  exactly. 
Let  me  tell  you,  by  w^ay  of  loads.  My  porters  con- 
sisted of  a  Aluganda,  whom  I  asked  from  his  master, 
James  Kabuga,  late  Mission  servant ;  three  boys  of 
Ashe's,  whom  he  was  kind  enough  to  lend  me  ;  and 
two  boys  of  my  own — six  in  all.  The  loads  were  : 
(i)  a  large  bag  containing  blankets  (three  of  them, 
Jaeger's),  a  mattress,  a  mosquito  net,  a  change  of 
clothes,  pyjamas,  towel,  soap,  brushes,  etc.;  this  was 
carried  by  the  Muganda.  (2)  My  tin  writing-desk, 
which  contained  besides  writing  materials,  tea, 
coffee,  sugar,  saccharine,  quinine,  pills,  anchovy  paste, 
a  little  cheese,  a  little  fresh  butter  in  two  small 
Liebig  pots,  some  needles  and  cotton  for  use  and 
also  for  presents  (a  line  needle  is  worth  twenty  shells, 
a  coarse  one  fifteen;  by-the-way,  I'll  try  and  send 
you  some  Uganda  needles  in  this  letter),  and  some 
fish-hooks.  (3)  A  bucket,  containing  knife,  fork, 
spoon,  cup,  jug,  with  some  home-made  bread,  wheat 
and  Indian  corn  mixed,  made  into  a  kind  of  toast  or 
biscuit  by  a  second  turn  in  the  oven  (you  know  my 
oven  is  a  large  native  pot  inverted,  with  a  bonfire  of 
grass  on  the  top),  and  some  broken  biscuit  of  the 
kind  that,  at  Uppingham,  we  called  '  dog-rocks,' 
but  which  are  a  considerable  luxury  out  here.  (4) 
An  iron  basin,  containing  a  kettle  and  a  saucepan, 
with  a  folding  chair  ;  the  two  remaining  boys  carried 
my  three  water  bottles  (which  I  filled  with  milk), 
and  looked  after  the  donkey  and  cow  and  calf.  I 
actually  started  from  Ashe  and  Walker's  ph  :e  ;  they 


LANGUAGE   STUDY.  187 

arc  living  in  what  was  the  place  of  a  Roman  Catholic 
whom  I  knew  well,  and  in  whom  I  was,  and  am, 
rather  interested.  He  told  me  that  he  was  a  Roman 
Catholic  because  it  was  they  who  followed  the 
teaching  of  the  New  Testament,  c.i^.,  '  Where  was 
the  cross  that  we  took  up  in  following  Jesus  ?  '  I 
told  him  that,  if  he  convinced  me  of  that,  I,  too, 
would  become  a  Roman  Catholic,  as  there  was  no 
other  authority  we  followed  but  the  Word  of  God. 
We  have  had  a  little  correspondence  since  the  war, 
and,  in  his  letter,  he  asks  me  where  our  Fold  is, 
and  where  is  our  Shepherd  ?  However,  this  is  a  di- 
gression. 

Walker,  as  I  started,  proved  himself  a  true  prophet 
of  evil,  when  he  warned  me  that  my  newly-cobbled 
boots  would  not  hold  out.  (Fve  turned  cobbler  of 
late ;  mended  my  dear  old  Jaeger  boots  with  buffalo 
hide,  only  the  soles  of  them.  Jaeger  boots  are  the 
best  for  Africa  ;  this  would  do  for  an  advertisement !) 

At  last,  we  are  off — loads  in  front,  cow  and  calf, 
donkey,  boy,  and,  last  of  all,  myself.  It  was  a  lovely 
walk  through  a  sort  of  country  lane,  sweet  smelling 
trees  every  now  and  again  making  the  air  very 
pleasant  ;  then  up  some  hill-side,  from  the  top  of 
which  a  splendid  view  of  Lake,  creek,  and  island  is 
visible  ;  then  along  the  side  of  a  valley,  with  the  rich 
banana  plantations  crowding  up  on  each  side  from 
the  wooded  valley  below ;  then  down  into  the  valley, 
where  there  is  a  scrap  of  what  I  suppose  a  tropical 
forest  is  like  on  a  more  extensive  scale  ;  and  then 
through  a  river,  or  rather  a  marsh,  which  stretches, 
perhaps,  half-a-milc  in   width,   and    for   which    the 


188  PILKINGTON   OF    UGANDA. 

donkey  comes  in  very  useful,  unless  some  strong 
and  not  too  lazy  Baganda  happens  to  be  at  hand  to 
take  one  over;  it  is  really  amazing  how  these  men 
carried  me,  who  am  no  light  weight — I  expect  I'm 
as  heavy  now  as  ever  I  was.  I  mount  on  the 
shoulders  of  one,  who  kneels  down  to  receive  me ; 
with  the  help  of  a  second,  he  stands  up,  and  then  up 
to  his  middle  in  water,  and  up  and  down  banks  three 
feet  in  height,  he  carries  me  alone. 

I  stopped  half-way,  and  had  some  refreshment  in 
the  way  of  milk,  bread  and  butter,  and  cheese.  Then 
on  again,  not  waiting  for  the  mid-day  sun  to  go 
down  at  all,  for  I  wanted  to  be  in  early,  that  a  house 
and  some  sort  of  a  bed  might  be  got  ready  for  me.  I 
was  now  going  along  by  the  Lake  shore,  and  in  a 
couple  of  hours,  it  was  evident  that  we  were  on  a 
peninsula,  about  a  mile  broad,  runnmg  out  into  the 
Lake.  It  was  like  a  park,  the  soil  was  very  rocky 
and  sandy  ;  in  consequence  the  grass  was  short  and 
light  for  this  country,  and  not  unlike  a  rather  poor 
meadow  at  home  ;  clumps  of  trees  were  sprinkled 
about  in  a  very  pretty  way,  some  of  the  trees  rather 
like  laurel  (a  thing  which  I  hate),  which  greatly 
increased  the  artificial  appearance  of  the  place  ;  the 
Lake  that  bounded  it  added  to  the  effect.  Here,  I 
rode  the  donkey  for  a  bit,  while  my  boy  Serukwaya, 
quite  of  his  own  accord,  carried  the  tired  calf;  we 
were  the  only  two  who  needed  either  milk  or  a  lift. 

At  last,  we  have  reached  our  destination  ;  it  is  not 
yet  three  o'clock,  I  should  think  (a  watch  that  will 
go  has  long  been  a  thing  of  the  past  with  me). 
Kudumusinayi,  one  of  the  two  tenants,  though  each 


LANGUAGI£   STUDY.  1^9 

has  several  under  him,  and  underlings  of  underlings 
also  abound,  gives  me  a  warm  welcome.  I  knew 
him  as  our  tenant  at  Natete. 

My  boys  and  I  are  allotted  a  small  round  house, 
not  as  big  as  an  average  Irish  cabin,  and  yet  the 
seven  of  us  slept  and  lived  there  very  comfortably  for 
three  days.  I  found  the  house  with  a  hole  in  the 
roof,  the  floor  deep  covered  with  ancient  grass  and 
dust,  and  a  very  suspicious  bed  in  the  corner  ! 
Suspicious,  in  that  I  fancied  that  many  creatures 
other  than  human  slept  in  it. 

However,  when  I  came  back  from  a  short  explora- 
tion of  our  property,  I  found  the  hole  mended,  the 
floor  swept,  and  a  very  nice  bed  in  the  course  of 
erection.  I  also  found  quite  a  crowd  collected  to 
see  me  ;  I  tried  to  make  friends  with  them,  and 
invited  them  to  a  Service  in  the  morning.  Then  I 
had  food — coffee,  plantains,  potatoes,  fish,  and 
bread  and  butter.  They  also  cooked  in  profusion 
for  my  boys.  Next  morning,  about  fifty,  nearly 
all  men,  came  to  the  service.  I  read  and  ex- 
plained and  made  them  say  the  Ten  Command- 
ments, and  then  pointing  out  how  we  could  not 
establish  our  own  righteousness,  tried  to  show  them 
what  Jesus  had  done  for  us ;  then  we  had  the 
Commandments  as  in  the  Communion  Seryice,  and 
a  few  Prayers. 

I  was  told  that  many  of  the  fishermen  still  believe 
that  if  they  take  a  fish  in  their  hands,  immediately 
all  the  fish  will  die ;  I  told  them  of  the  quantities 
of  fish  I  had  seen  caught  on  the  North  Sea ;  was  it 
only  the  Uganda  fish  that  dreaded  hooks  ? 


190  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

I  had  another  httle  Service  in  the  afternoon,  and 
then  went  coasting  along  for  a  bit  in  a  canoe,  and 
visited  a  remarkable  cave  on  the  end  of  a  long,  low- 
lying,  narrow  peninsula :  the  rock  which  formed 
the  cave  was  twenty  feet  high,  and  covered  with 
trees  and  creepers,  making  a  very  pretty  object  as 
seen  from  a  sandy  piece  of  beach,  near  which  I  want 
to  get  a  house  built,  that  will  receive  any  of  us  who 
might  go  to  teach  or  for  a  change  ;  of  course  it 
would  be  part  of  the  people's  business  to  build  for 
us,  either  there  or  at  the  Capital. 

The  trees  on  the  island  were,  some  of  them, 
magnificent ;  three  kinds  of  fruit  grow  there — 
empafu,  something  between  plums  and  olives ; 
ensali,  something  like  a  very  acid  cherry,  and 
eroyidu,  not  unlike  sloes ;  there  is  also  some  coffee. 
I  saw  lots  of  monkeys,  crocodiles,  and  hippos. 

On  the  Monday,  I  visited  each  house  in  the  place ; 
men,  women,  and  children,  might  reach,  perhaps, 
200  ,  if  the  ground  were  full  cultivated,  i,ooo  might 
be  supported  there. 

If  only  the  reading  sheets  and  other  books  would 
come  soon ;  among  all  these  people,  five  only,  I 
think,  had  books  at  all. 

I  came  back  on  Tuesday,  just  in  time  to  see  the 
king  return,  to  inaugurate,  I  hope,  a  new  era  in  his 
strange  and  eventful  reign.  In  writing  in  detail  as  I 
have  done,  I  have  this  special  object  :  I  wish,  when 
the  country  is  quiet,  to  undertake  some  itinera- 
ting work,  in  Kyagwe  especially,  which  is  the 
province  between  this  and  the  Nile ;  possibly 
in  the  Islands  too.     You  will,  from  this  account,  be 


LANGUAGE    STUDY.  191 

able  to  understand  a  little  better  how  1  am  likely  to 
live  while  engaged  in  this  sort  of  work,  which, 
however  much  I  appreciate  the  privilege  and  the 
need  of  translational  work,  is  what  I  came  for  most 
of  all,  and  which  is,  moreover,  indispensable  if  the 
translation  is  to  be  done  properly." 

In  April,  news  was  received  of  the  death  of  Mr.  de 
Winton,  son  of  Sir  Francis  de  Winton,  in  Toro. 
Pilkington  felt  his  loss  keenly,  as  the  following 
words  shew :  "  We  were  all  of  us  here,  I  know,  very 
fond  of  him;  he  was  a  most  dehghtful  companion. 
He  brightened  many  an  evening  in  this  house,  and 
I  spent  many  a  pleasant  hour  with  him  when  he 
was  alone  at  Kampala.  I  was  the  invalid  then ; 
and  he  would  keep  me  interested  for  hours  to- 
gether with  stories  of  his  American  and  other 
experiences. 

It  is  hard  to  believe  that  I  shall  never  hear  his 

cheery  voice  again  in  this  world He  didn't 

hide  his  Hght,  but  was  known  by  the  others  at 
Kampala,  and,  indeed,  by  the  Christians  here,  as  a 
Christian  man  ;  he  sometimes  came  to  our  Luganda 
service  in  the  morning,  and  often  to  the  Lord's 
Supper." 

It  is  hard  to  over-estimate  the  value  of  such 
a  man  holding  an  official  position  in  the  Mission 
Field. 

On  his  return  to  the  Capital,  Pilkington  devoted 
himself  once  more  to  his  translational  work,  and  on 
June  2nd,  1892,  he  wrote  at  some  length  to  Mr.  Lang, 
giving  some  description  of  the  progress  of  his  w  urk, 


192  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

and  offering  some  valuable  suggestions  as  the  im- 
portant subject  of  Language  Study  : — 

"  I  have  two  or  three  matters  connected  v^ith 
translation  and  language,  that  I  have  for  some  time 
wished  to  write  to  you  about,  and  I  take  this 
opportunity,  as,  having  had  fever  twice  lately,  the 
Doctor  recommends  me  not  to  do  so  much  trans- 
lation as  I  have  been  doing,  and  so  I'll  write  this 
letter  instead.  The  first  point  is  about  the  trans- 
lation of  the  New  Testament  in  particular ;  in  ten 
days  or  so,  if  nothing  occurs  to  hinder  my  w^ork,  I 
should  finish  Corinthians.  Hebrews  is  finished, — 
the  New  Testament  will  then  be  all  translated. 
Gordon  took  the  Gospels,  and  Acts.  Ashe,  I  believe, 
translated  i  John  ;  and  I  shall  have  sent  the  rest, 
when  Hebrews  and  Corinthians  shall  have  gone.  I 
am  afraid  you  may  think  that  the  work  has 
been  too  quickly  done  to  have  been  well  done.  I 
want  to  explain  to  you  how  this  is  not  really  the 
case.  There  never  was  anyone  w'ho  more  than  I 
entered  into  other  men's  labours.  I  found  several 
men,  H.  W.  Duta  far  ahead  of  them  all,  with  a 
good  knowledge  of  the  whole  New  Testament ;  they 
knew  Swahili,  and  were  thoroughly  practised  in  trans- 
lating from  Swahili  into  Luganda  ;  there  were  none 
of  the  ordinary  difficulties  of  searching  for  w^ords  to 
translate  the  important  terms  and  phrases  of  the 
Gospel  ;  these  w^ere  not  only  at  hand,  but  so  far 
stereotyped  by  extensive  use,  that  any  radical 
changes,  had  I  wished  to  make  them,  could  hardly 
have  been  justifiable.  This  fact  made  the  work 
possible,  and  it  also  makes  nic  hope  that  the  trans- 


LANGUAGE    STUDY.  193 

lation  (thanks  not  to  me,  but  to  my  predecessors 
and  to  the  Waganda  themselves),  is  a  better  one 
than  a  first  translation  into  a  new  language  generally 
can  be ;  it  has  been,  really,  beaten  out  during  many 
years  by  the  best  brains  among  the  Waganda  them- 
selves, with  the  help  of  Mackay,  Ashe,  Gordon, 
Walker,  and  the  others  who  have  been  here.  So 
you  see  there  were  exceptional  facilities.  I  think 
there  was  also  an  exceptional  need,  for  I  should 
think  there  was  hardl}'  ever  so  large  a  body  of 
Christians,  in  modern  days,  so  eager  to  learn,  for  so 
long  a  time  with  only  one  book  of  the  Bible  in  their 
own  tongue,  and  that  in  such  limited  quantities. 
There  is  a  special  reason,  too,  which  makes  me  long 
for  Luganda  books  :  the  idea  has  gained  ground 
that — as  no  can  know  much  of  Christianity  without 
being  able  to  read,  and  knowing  Swahili — therefore, 
reading,  and  a  knowledge  of  Swahili  makes  a  man  a 
Christian — nothing  will  quite  eradicate  this  motion, 
I  think,  but  books  in  Luganda.  There  is  one  defect 
in  the  translation,  which  is  at  the  same  time,  I 
think,  a  merit  in  a  first  translation  :  I  have  not 
always  translated,  or  tried  to  translate,  the  same 
Greek  word  by  the  same  Luganda  ;  I  preferred,  in 
the  present  state  of  my  knowledge,  to  leave  the 
question  open  by  translating  it  variously ;  better 
leave  the  decision  till  the  time  when  we  shall  be  in 
a  position  to  be  sure  that  the  selected  translation 
is  the  best.  There  is  another  defect  which,  I'm 
afraid,  could  not  and  cannot  be  remedied — the  use 
of  one  Luganda  word  for  two  or  three  different 
Greek  ones  ;  for,  of  course,  Luganda,  though  a  very 


194  PILKINGTON    OF  UGANDA. 

rich  language,  may  happen  to  be  weak  just  where 
Greek  is  strong  ;  we  have  used  one  word  for  the 
Greek  Trvevfxa,  y\rv^r]  (in  sense  of  soul),  and  Kaphla — 
the  word  for  '  spirit,'  was  one  of  those  stereo- 
typed words  I  spoke  of,  and  I  never  thought  of 
changing  it  (Ashe,  however,  the  other  day,  said  it 
was  still  not  too  late — but  I  think  it  is) — otherwise, 
I  think  I  should  have  preferred  a  word  meaning 
'  air  '  or  '  wind,'  to  the  word  chosen,  which  simply 
means  soul  or  spirit  in  a  metaphysical  sense,  and 
has  no  material  meaning.  Again,  the  word  for 
'  to  love '  and  '  to  will '  is  the  same  in  Luganda ; 
hence,  '  according  to  the  will  of  God  '  might  mean 
'the  love  of  God.'  Again,  for  'to  accept'  and 
'  to  believe,'  there  is  only  one  word.  I  had  in- 
tended not  to  attempt  much  of  the  Old  Testament, 
until  I  had  gone  home  and  read  Hebrew,  but  lately, 
I  have  started  at  the  Psalms  and  Joshua.  Joshua 
is  finished  (but  I  want  to  go  through  it  with  Henry), 
and  about  fifty  of  the  Psalms.  About  half  of 
Genesis  and  Exodus  is  done,  too ;  but  I  have  to  go 
over  this  again.  Before  I  get  an  answer  to  this 
letter,  I  am  likely,  if  the  Lord  will,  to  get  the 
Pentateuch  and  a  good  deal  of  the  Historical  Books 
translated.  I  should  like  to  know  what  you  think 
of  this,  i.e.,  my  doing  it  without  the  Hebrew. 
There  is  another  even  more  important  matter  that 
I  wished  to  write  about.  I  don't  think  the  Com- 
mittee can  realize  how  much  difficulty  most  men 
have  in  learning  these  African  languages,  else  I 
don't  think  they  would  send  men,  not  specially 
qualified,  into  a  country  where  the  language  is  not 


LANGUAGE    STUDY.  195 

known.  I  believe  that  it's,  in  most  cases,  worse 
than  useless  sending  a  man  who  has  not  had  special 
training  in  language  and  the  theory  of  it,  to  such  a 
place  ;  it  is  awfully  trying  to  himself,  physically  and 
spiritually  ;  at  the  same  time,  very  discouraging ; 
and  I  cannot  but  strongly  suspect  that  it  would 
account  for  a  good  many  promising  careers  cut 
short.  The  long  period  that  must  elapse,  before 
such  a  man  can  express  to  the  natives  the  object 
which  has  brought  him  there,  must  surely  cause  a 
host  of  misconceptions  on  their  part ;  his  apparently 
luxurious  life — as  it  is  to  them — must  surely  give 
them  very  misleading  ideas  which  for  years  the 
Missionary  canT  correct.  It  isn't  enough  to  send  a 
man  of  ordinary  all-round  education  ;  he  ought  to 
have  made  a  special  study  of  language — that  is, 
thoroughly  compared  the  structure  of  any  two 
languages ;  and,  besides  that,  he  ought  to  know 
Steere's  book  (except  the  vocabularies)  absolutely, 
so  as  to  know  the  skeleton  of  a  Bantu  language. 
I  beg  to  respectfully  suggest  to  the  Committee  to 
appeal  specially  for  such  men — Cambridge  men,  e.g., 
who  have  at  least  got  a  Second  in  Classics ;  and, 
farther,  that  Stations,  where  a  new  language  has  to 
be  learnt,  should  not  be  opened  till  such  men  be 
forthcoming,  as  otherwise  great  expense  will  be 
incurred  and  perhaps  more  harm  done  than  good. 
The  language  once  mastered  and  a  grammar  written, 
men  with  less  aptitude  for  languages,  but,  perhaps, 
far  better  Missionaries  can  step  in  and,  without 
unnecessary  loss  of  precious  time  and  health, 
begin    work.     But  to  send  such  a  man   up   in  the 


196  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

first  instance,  what  a  sad  waste  !  I  assure  you,  the 
majority  of  the  men  whom  I've  seen  in  the  field 
closely,  wouldn't  learn  a  new  language  without  help 
in  twenty  years.  If  you  doubt  this,  write  a  circular 
to  the  Missionaries,  asking  them  how  long  they 
they  suppose  they  would  be  learning  a  new 
language  without  any  sort  of  help  from  books.  I 
expect  the  average  would  put  down  ten  years.  I 
hope  I  don't  seem  to  be  puffing  the  facility  which  I 
have  in  learning  a  language  :  after  all  the  years  I've 
spent  on  the  subject,  I  should  be  a  duffer  if  I  hadn't 
profited  at  all  by  it ;  what  have  I  that  I  haven't 
received  ?  But  I  assure  you  I  am  prompted  to 
write  this  by  the  earnest  desire  to  see  the  Gospel 
preached  to  all  nations,  an  object  which  I  am 
convinced  will  only  be  retarded  by  sending  men 
not  specially  trained  in  language  to  new  stations  in 
the  first  instance.  If  men,  interested  in  language, 
knew  what  a  magnificent  field  this  is,  they  might 
come  for  that  reason  ;  but  I  had  rather  they  came 
for  the  Gospel's  sake — but  the  other  reason  might 
do  as  a  counterpoise  to  fever,  journeys,  and  other 
annoyances." 

Commenting  in  another  place  on  the  need  of 
trained  men  for  language  work,  Pilkington  writes — 

"  Let  those  who  are  sometimes  inclined  to  feel 
that  the  years  spent  on  Greek  and  Latin  were 
partially  wasted  come  out  here,  and  in  one  short 
year  I  venture  to  say  they  will  have  '  redeemed  the 
time '  so  spent.  Do  any  such  think  they  are  too 
good  for  Africa  ?  If  so,  may  God  forgive  them  a 
thought  so  presumptuous  and  silly  !     They  will  get 


LANGUAGE    STUDY.  197 

no  higher  returns  on  any  abilities,  spiritual, 
intellectual,  physical,  which  God  has  given  them 
for  investment,  than  they  will  get  in  Africa,  and, 
perhaps,  especially  here.  Every  qualified  worker 
might  be  the  means,  in  God's  hands,  of  sending 
out  in  a  few  years  time,  say  twenty,  well-taught, 
spiritual,  zealous  Baganda  as  missionaries  to  the 
surrounding  nations — each  one  of  them  in  many 
ways  far  superior  to  an  English  missionary.  Would 
not  this  repay  any  labour,  any  loss  ?  The 
evangelization  of  Africa  is  visible  from  Uganda. 
How  long  it  is  to  be  before  it  shall  be  an 
accomplished  fact  Christian  England  must  decide." 
At  this  time  he  was  working  at  a  Root  dictionary, 
of  which  he  writes  as  follows : — 

"  I  aim  at  20,000  words.  I  don't  think  I  shall 
find  this  difficult.  Luganda  is  a  very  wealthy 
language.  I  think  it  will  be  necessary  to  go  in  for 
a  little  Luyima  (or  Kituse)  and  Lusoga  to  do  the 
root  work  perfectly.  These  three  languages  are 
barely  more  than  dialects  and  throw  enormous 
light  on  one  another.  So  does  Swahili,  but  to  a 
much  smaller  extent.  I  have  also  written,  some 
time  ago,  for  a  Zulu  grammar,  as  I  have  reason  to 
think  (I  have  a  Zulu  Prayer  Book)  this  language 
very  closely  allied  to  Luganda. 

I  am  very  hopeful — from  the  slight  investigations 
I  have  been  able  to  make  into  Lusoga  and  Luyima 
— that  a  single  Bible  will  do  for  these  two  countries, 
and  Uganda,  as  well  as  Unyoro  (I  expect).  The 
idea  (once  entertained,  I  believe)  that  Swahili  would 
do  for  these  countries  is  a  mere   dream.     It  would 


198  PILKINGTON  OF    UGANDA. 

be  about  the  same  thing  us  trying  to  introduce 
German  into  England.  Luganda  is  entirely 
different  from  and  superior  to  Swahili.  Out  of  a 
considerable  number  of  Lusoga  words  I  have  got, 
five,  I  think,  in  every  ten,  are  identical  with 
Luganda,  four  the  same  root,  modified,  perhaps,  and 
with  a  different  prefix,  and  one  a  totally  different 
word,  although  otten  a  word  which  also  occurs  in 
Luganda  but  in  a  different  sense.  In  the  Root 
dictionary,  I  hope  to  be  able  to  include  (by  a  simple 
system  of  signs  that  won't,  I  think,  interfere  with 
its  usefulness  and  handiness  for  Luganda)  a  good 
many  Lusoga  and  Luyima  and  Lunyoro  words — 
the  roots  being  identical  in  so  many  cases,  this  will 
not  be  difficult  in  a  Root  dictionary ;  and  where  they 
differ  they  do  so  by  regular  changes. 

It  would  be  well  still  to  have  a  Vocabulary  on  the 
old  system,  as  in  Steere's  book,  for  beginners, 
containing  the  words  in  everyday  use  only. 

My  own  belief  is  that  a  thorough  knowledge  of 
the  language  must  be  gained  if  Uganda  is  to  be  the 
great  centre  of  civilization  and  teaching  which  I 
cannot  but  suppose  the  Committee  expect  it  to  be. 
In  order  to  give  you  a  better  idea  of  what 
I  propose  to  do  in  the  Dictionary,  I  give  a  couple 
of  roots  worked — good  specimens  of  course ;  you 
mustn't  suppose  that  all  roots  are  equally  prolific, 
but  I  think  you  will   admit  these  to  be  very  pretty. 

Three   thousand  such    roots    would   give    a   very 

ample  vocabulary."      (For  specimen  quoted  above  see  p.  199.) 

A  little  later  hs  describes  the  eagerness  of  the 
people  to  obtain  books. 


LANGUAGE    STUDY.  1^^ 

Specimen  of  Luganda  Roots. 

^'  We  have  been  selling  books  (Matthews,  Prayer 
Books,  and  reading  books,  130,  iSo,  and  600 
respectively)  to-day  and  yesterday.  How  shall  I 
describe  it  ?  Feeding  the  lions  at  the  Zoo,  a  scramble 
(^f  street  boys  for  coppers,  perhaps  a  distribution  of 
food  in  famine  time,  these  are  the  things   suggested. 


(J 


200  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

The  people  who  came  with  shells  to  buy  and  went 
away  empty  were  twice  as  many  as  those  who 
received  books,  and  then  this  is  only  one  place  in 
this  large  country ;  and  further,  it  is  not  easy  to 
collect  shells  on  one  day's  notice.  What  we  want 
are  books,  not  thousands,  but  millions  of  books. 
I  should  like  to  see  -f  5,000  spent  at  once  on  printing 
and  sending  up  of  books  ;  this  would  be  a  glorious 
way  of  advancing  God's  Kingdom. 

All  day  long  the  place  has  been  crowded  with 
people  who  refuse  to  believe  that  there  are  no  more 
books.  How  would  you  feel  if  at  a  Christmas 
party  the  tea  and  cake  ran  so  short  that  only  one  in 
every  five  got  anything  at  all  ?  I  feel  something 
like  that.  And  yet  these  books  are  of  more  value 
to  these  starving  souls  than  are  tea  and  cake  to  a 
starving  child.  I  wish  you  could  run  a  long  pin 
into  every  one  at  home  who's  asleep  and  won't  wake 
up  to  help  us.  It's  disgraceful  the  way  we've  been 
left  without  books — simply  dreadful.  I  trust  and 
hope  and  pray  that  better  times  are  coming.  In 
other  places,  money  and  energy  is  spent  in  trying  to 
get  people  to  buy  and  read  (or  even  take)  the  Bible  ; 
but  here,  be  the  reason  what  you  will,  the  wild  desire 
to  read  and  possess  a  book  has  seized  the  whole 
country.  If  we  don't  supply  the  demand  the 
Roman  Catholics  will." 

Two  letters  from  George  to  his  mother,  written  in 
August  and  September,  besides  giving  some  account 
of  the  progress  of  the  work  in  Uganda,  deal  with 
some  interesting  questions  which  came  before  him 
at  this  time. 


LANGUAGE    STUDY.  201 

"  Namirembe,  Mengo, 

Sunday,  7th   August,   1892. 

In  Buganda  itself,  things  are  going  on  quietly. 
The  new  Church — really  a  magnificent  building  that 
impresses  you  like  a  Cathedral — was  opened  last 
Sunday.  The  king  came,  and  a  vast  congregation, 
enough  to  fill  the  Church  twice,  not  much  short,  I 
think,  of  10,000  people.  I  read  the  Bishop's  letter, 
Henry  and  Nikodemo  preached.  This  morning 
there  was  a  congregation  of  3,000  or  4,000,  I  think ; 
Church  not  quite  full,  and  I  preached  on  Matthew 
22,  and  we  had  Communion  to  which  about  100 
people  stayed 

However,  the  news  from  Busoga  is  very  alarming. 
Wakoli  (where  Smith  is),  was  shot  by  one  of  the 
Company's  coast  men  (originally  a  Musoga), 
whether  by  accident  or  not  nobody  knows.  Smith 
had  the  narrowest  possible  escape  with  his  life ; 
forty  Waganda,  we  are  told,  were  murdered. 
Captain  Williams,  on  hearing  of  it,  immediately 
set  out  with  the  Maxim  and  170  men,  on  the  day 
that  I  came  back  from  the  Islands,  28th  July.  No 
news  from  him  yet. 

.  .  .  .  One  of  the  elders  told  me  the  other 
day  that  we  should  never  satisfy  the  demand  for 
books.  More  people  begin  reading  day  by  day, 
and  month  by  month,  than  books  come.  Oh  for 
books  !  However,  Ashe's  printing  press  is  doing  a 
great  work. 

I  quite  agree  with  you  about 
distinctions  between  secular  and  religious.  To  a 
Christian  man   nothing    should    be    secular :   he  is  a 


202  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

soldier  on  duty  always  (or  neglecting  it — never  off 
duty)  ;  to  one  who  is  not  a  Christian  nothing,  is 
religious ;  in  this,  as  in  everything,  not  that  which 
'  entereth  into  a  man  '  from  without,  nothing  ex- 
ternal '  defileth  the  man,'  but  that  which  comes 
out  of  his  heart,  that  '  defileth  a  man,'  and  a 
man's  heart  is  not  visible  to  us.  To  his  own 
master,  each  servant  stands  or  falls.  I  am  no  priest 
to  usurp  that  which  is  God's  alone. 

If  a  man  wants  to  go  in  for  what  are  called 
worldly  pleasures,  I  can't  see  what  good  it  would  be 
to  hinder  him ;  if  he  tastes  the  pleasures  which  God 
gives,  the  others  drop  off,  as  a  dog  drops  a  bit  of 
potato  when  you  offer  him  a  bone.  There  isn't 
time  for  both.  I  say,  let  every  man  do  according  as 
he  is  disposed  in  his  heart.  A  man  is  what  he  is 
disposed  in  his  heart  to  be ;  what  he  does  is  only  a 
symptom  of  what  he  is  and  of  very  trifling 
importance  comparative^ — except  as  a  symptom. 
The  Devil  chained  would  be  a  Devil  still.  Even 
when  he  appears  as  an  Angel  of  light,  he's  still  the 
Devil. 

At  the  same  time,  when  I  see  a  chap  raking  in  a 
muck  heap,  it's  only  common  charity  and  common 
sense  to  ask  him  what  he  finds  there  worth  looking 
for,  and  point  to  the  crown.  Not  that  I  would 
venture  to  say  that  I  don't  often  have  a  rake  at  it 
myself.  When  I  do  so,  I  hope  I  should  be  grateful 
to  anyone  who  showed  me  what  a  fool  I  was. 

Don't  imagine  that  I  suppose  that  nobody  does 
God's  will  who  is  not  a  missionary  or  a  preacher  or 
a  '  professional  Christian  '  of  some  sort.     Very  far 


LANGUAGE    STUDY.  203 

from  it.  '  Let  every  man  be  fully  persuaded  in  his 
own  mind.'  '  Whatsoever  is  not  of  faith  is  sin.' 
Good-bye  for  to-night." 

"9  p.m.,  Thursday,   i8th  August. 
Mail    goes   to-morrow.      Captain    Williams    back 
from  Busoga.   Smith  is  all  right;  is  at  Luba's  now." 

"C.M.S..  Namirembe,  Uganda, 

3rd  September,  1892. 

.     .     .     In  spite  of  a  good  deal  of  fever  lately,  I've 
been   wonderfully  strong  and  well ;    able  to   go  up 
every  morning  to  the  great  church  on  the  hill,  where, 
after  the  regular  reading  and  prayers,  I  have  a  class 
of  seven  elders  ;  then,  while  they  teach  seven  classes 
of  candidates   for  baptism  on  the   lines  just    given 
them   by  me,   I   have  a  class  of  some  twenty  boys, 
the  most  promising  ones  ;  then  I  sing  with  a  sort  of 
choir,  which  I  have  started.     You  will  be  surprised 
that  I  should  teach  singing,  but,  as  nobody  else  does 
it,  and  they  sing  awfully  badly,  I  do  what  I  can.     In 
the  afternoon,  I    translate  with    Henry  —  Exodus, 
at  present ;  also  I  am  writing,  at  the  request  of  our 
Committee  here,  a  little  book  in  Luganda  of  outlines 
of  Christian  doctrine,  which  is  meant  to  be  a  help  to 
Baganda  teachers.     .     .     .     Luganda  is  ten   times 
as    hard    as    Swahili ;  true,  Swahili    is   the   easiest 
language  in  the  world  to  get  a  superficial  knowledge 
of,  but  Luganda  is  undoubtedly  difficult. 

My  b3ans  are  growing  splendidly.  I  have  two 
little  broods  of  fowls  (four  and  six  respectively),  one 
hen  sitting,  and  another  laying ;  six  goats,  nine 
sheep,  a  ram,  three  lambs,  a  bull,  fourteen  cows  and 


204  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

eight  calves.  I  think  this  a  better  way  of  keeping 
my  cloth  (investing  it  in  beasts)  than  keeping  in  my 
house,  where  the  dangers  to  it  are  so  many. 

The  produce  of  my  flocks  and  herds  supports  me. 
Leopards  are  my  bugbears. 

The  rennet  powder  works  beautifully ;  milk  in 
various  forms  is  my  chief  food ;  the  other  men  despise 
skim  milk — I  think  it  the  thing  for  this  country. 
Whey  is  a  great  thing,  too.  .  .  .  Don't  be 
afraid  of  my  not  taking  care  of  my  health  ;  I  am  a 
perfect  old  woman,  awfully  afraid  of  a  draught  or 
anything  damp,  over-exertion,  or  anything  else — one 
learns  to  be  careful  here — that  is  the  most  important 
part  of  acclimatization,  though,  I  believe,  one  does 
get  to  some  extent  acclimatized  besides.  I  am  too 
much  interested  in  the  work  here  to  do  anything 
that  might  force  me  to  leave  it.  I  hope  to  live  to 
see  the  whole  of  Africa  evangelized.  If  only  Christian 
England  made  a  honest  effort,  it  wouldn't  take 
many  decades  to  do  it.  But  England,  I'm  afraid,  is 
in  earnest  about  one  thing  only — making  money. 

By  the  way,  my  flocks  and  herds  above-mentioned 
are  altogether  worth  only  about  a  load  of  cloth, 
costing  about  £3  at  the  coast,  and  £j  for  carriage — 
total  £10.  Besides,  four  of  the  cattle  and  three  of 
the  goats  were  presents.  About  100  lbs.  of  common 
washing  soap  would  buy  the  whole  lot." 

A  little  later,  he  speaks  of  receiving  some  wheat 
from  the  Katikiro,  which  he  ground  in  a  coffee  mill, 
and  made  brown  bread  with  it,  ''  besides  first-rate 
pancakes  ;  cakes  and  puddings  occasionally  !  " 


LANGUAGE    STUDY.  205 

Another  trip  down  the    lake   gave   him    another 
change,  and  in  November,  1892,  he  writes  :— 

"  Uganda, 

November  23rd,   1892. 

I  have  just  returned  from  a  trip  to  Nassa,  about 
which  I  wrote  to  Mr.  Lang,  undertaken  by  the 
advice  of  the  brethren  here.  I  am  glad  to  say  that 
it  has  done  me  a  great  deal  of  good  and  I  feel  as 
well  as  possible.  I  got  back  on  the  i8th.  I  was 
interested  to  find  that  the  languages  spoken  all  along 
the  West  Coast  of  the  Lake  and  on  the  Island  of 
Ukerewe  are  very  close  to  Luyima  (Kituse),  the 
language  of  the  Wahuma,  as  Stanley,  I  think,  calls 
them.  My  Mwima  boy  could  talk  fluently  with 
them  all  and  understand  them.  I  felt  this  as  an 
additional  reason  for  extension  into  the  countries  of 
the  Bayima,  to  the  West  of  Uganda,  Toro,  etc.  I 
believe  that  this  language,  in  different  dialects,  is 
spoken  over  a  greater  area  than  Luganda.  But,  at 
present,  the  miserable  reinforcements  of  which  we 
hear,  make  me  despair  of  extension  even  into  Busoga, 
where,  as  you  know  by  this  time,  the  work  was 
temporarily  given  up.  I  do  not  think  that  either  the 
Christian  public  or  even  the  C. M.S.  Committee  have 
grasped  how^  great  the  need  is  here.  There  are  vast 
arrears  of  work  to  be  done  here  ;  vast  numbers  call 
themselves  Christians,  and  are  regarded  as  such  by 
the  people  generally,  who  have  not  only  no  heart 
religion,  but  not  even  a  knowledge  of  Christian 
morality.  What  I  fear  is  a  widespread  misconcep- 
tion of  the  meaning  of  Christianity,   if  this   state  of 


206  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

things  continues.  This  calamity  can  be  averted  only, 
I  venture  to  thmk,  by  an  adequate  supply  of  teachers, 
and  also  of  books  ;  at  present,  we  have  neither  in 
anything  like  the  numbers  needed.  We  already  see 
many  sad  instances  of  inconsistency,  and,  what  is 
worst  of  all,  they  are  evidently  not  regarded  as  any- 
thing very  bad  by  the  great  bulk  of  the  people  ;  I  am 
afraid  that  this  will  spread  and  corrupt  the  Church. 
*  Reading  '  is  getting,  it  seems  to  me,  to  be  less  and 
less  regarded  as  inconsistent  with  drunkenness  and 
fornication.  Naturally  enough,  for  now  great 
numbers  are  '  reading,'  and  few  have  renewed 
hearts  and  therefore  renewed  lives.  Individual  work 
is  what  is  needed  here,  and  this  takes  such  a  time. 

It  is  wonderful,  and  yet,  perhaps,  not  really  so 
when  you  consider  that  we  are  foreigners  here,  how 
the  Gospel,  when  preached  to  numbers  even  in  the 
simplest  and  plainest  way,  seems  to  be  not  under- 
stood, or  at  any  rate  not  realized,  as  a  personal 
matter. 

I  have  quite  failed  to  express  how  urgent,  how 
terrible  seems  to  me  the  need  of  men." 

It  is  clear  from  the  above  that  the  Missionaries 
fully  realized  the  dangers  of  a  rapid  spread  of 
Christianity  in  Uganda,  and,  if  there  have  been 
exaggerated  ideas  abroad  of  the  progress  of  the 
work,  it  has  not  been  the  fault  of  the  Missionaries 
who  have  all  along  told  of  discouragement  as  well 
as  success. 

Just  a  month  after  the  writing  of  this  letter, 
Bishop  Tucker  arrived  for  the  second  time  in  Uganda, 
and   his  testimony  as  to    Pilkington's  gifts    as    an 


LANGUAGE    STUDY.  207 

interpreter,  and  as  to  the  progress  of  the  work  in 
Uganda,  form  a  valuable  commentary  on  much  that 
has  been  already  mentioned  in  this  chapter.  The 
Bishop  writes  : — 

"  At  about  4  p.m.,  to  our  great  joy,  our  long  and 
weary  journey  of  eighty-nine  days  was  at  an  end, 
and  we  were  with  our  dear  brethren  at  Mengo.  A 
heavy  storm  of  rain  had  prevented  people  coming  in 
any  large  numbers  to  meet  us,  but,  as  the  weather 
cleared  up,  we  were  soon  besiged  with  visitors.  To 
see  the  friends  and  brethren  who,  two  years  ago,  had 
travelled  up  from  the  coast  with  me  was  indeed  a 
great  joy.  Mr.  Pilkington  was  looking  the  very 
picture  of  health.  Mr.  Baskerville,  too,  was  looking 
very  well,  and  enjoys,  I  am  glad  to  think,  excellent 
health.  After  some  refreshment,  we  went  to  see  the 
houses  in  which  we  are  to  live.  They  have  been 
built  for  us  by  our  Native  brethren.  My  house 
astonished  me.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  in  Buganda. 
It  has  six  rooms  in  it. 

Christmas  Day  dawned,  and  verily  it  is  a  day 
never  to  be  forgotten.  The  thrill  that  went  through 
me  when,  two  years  ago,  I  addressed  a  congregation 
of  1,000  souls  in  the  old  Church  is  still  fresh  in  my 
memory.  If  I  was  thrilled  then,  I  was  simply  over- 
whelmed yesterday  when  I  stood  up  to  speak  in  the 
name  of  our  Master  to  a  congregation  numbering 
over  5,000  souls.  I  wonder  whether,  in  the 
whole  mission-field,  such  a  sight  has  been  witnessed 
since  Apostolic  days.  Tlie  perfect  stillness  as  I 
stood  up  to  speak,  and  indeed  throughout  the 
service,  was  almost  as  awe-inspiring  as  the  sight  of 


208  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

the  great  multitude  itself.  Mr.  Pilkington  inter- 
preted for  me,  and  it  was  quite  evident  that  he 
performed  his  task  to  perfection.  In  the  afternoon, 
a  second  service  was  held,  and  I  suppose  between 
three  and  four  thousand  people  must  have  been 
present.  At  this  service  about  thirty  women  were 
baptized.  Mr.  Baskcrville  preached  in  Luganda. 
Later  in  the  afternoon,  an  English  service  was  held. 
At  this  service  a  larger  number  of  Europeans  were 
present  than  have  been  gathered  together  before  in 
Uganda.  Christmas  Day  was  a  trying  day,  but  an 
intensely  joyful  day — a  day  worth  coming  to  the 
ends  of  the  earth  to  enjoy. 

I  have  brought  with  me  from  the  coast  more  than 
8,000  portions  of  the  Word  of  God.  The  delight  of 
the  people  is  indescribable.  Daily  my  house  is 
besieged  by  w(Mild-be  purchasers.  Last  time  when 
books  arrived,  the  eagerness  to  possess  them  was 
such  that  there  was  danger  of  the  house  being 
knocked  down.  It  has  therefore  been  decided  to 
sell  them  at  different  centres  at  one  and  the  same 
time.  Those  who  come  for  books  are  therefore 
turned  away  until  the  arrangements  are  complete 
for  the  sale  to  go  forward.  Many  more  loads  of 
books  are  coming  up  by  the  old  road,  and  I  trust, 
by  our  friends  at  home  keeping  up  the  supply,  to 
pour  a  constant  stream  of  God's  truth  upon  the 
land.'' 


CHAPTER    XI, 


THE    FIRST    MUTINY. 


The  early  days  of  1893  were  great  days  in  Uganda  ; 
six  natives  were  ordained  deacons  on  the  under- 
standing that  they  were  to  be  supported  by  the 
Native  Church,  and  ten  others  were  licensed  as  lay 
evangelists.  In  February,  the  Bishop  held  his  second 
Confirmation  in  Uganda;  of  this  he  wTites: — 

''Seventy-five  were  confirmed,  all  adults.  This  was 
the  first  Confirmation  in  the  new  Church,  or,  as  I 
think  I  must  call  it,  the  Cathedral.  For  Central 
Africa  it  is  as  wonderful  a  building  as  Durham 
Cathedral  is  for  England.  There  are  nearly  500 
trees  used  in  it  as  pillars;  somj  of  them  were 
brought  five  and  six  days'  journey  and  needed 
several  hundred  men  to  carry  them.  The  order  and 
decency  of  the  services  is  most  admirable.  The 
Confirmation  was  a  much  more  reverent  ceremony 
than  many  which  I  have  been  at  in  England." 

In  March,  Sir  Gerald  Portal,  Impsrial  Commis- 
sioner to  Uganda,  arrived  in  Mengo,  and,  on  April  ist, 
the  Company's  flag  was  hauled  down  and  the  Union 
Jack  took  its  place,  in  token  that  Uganda  was  now 
to  be  regarded  as  part  of  the  British  Empire.  This 
was  intended,  in  the  first  place,  to  be  a  temporary 

P  209 


210  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

measure,  the  final  arrangement  being  announced  to 
Parliament  in  April,  1894. 

During  his  stay  in  Uganda,  the  Commissioner  was 
chiefly  occupied  in  seeking  to  arrange  terms  of 
agreement  between  the  rival  factions  in  Uganda. 
With  the  assistance  of  Bishop  Tucker  and 
Monseigneur  Hirth,  an  arrangement  of  territory  was 
made  which,  it  was  hoped,  would  be  satisfactory  to 
all  parties.  On  May  30th,  Sir  Gerald  Portal  left  for 
the  coast,  Bishop  Tucker  leaving  three  days  later  by 
the  Southern  route.  He  then  wrote  :  ''  The  position 
of  our  friends  is  absolutely  secure  in  our  opinion." 

How^  soon  these  hopes  of  peace  were  to  be  dis- 
appointed is  shown  by  the  following  letter  from 
Pilkington,  dated  Kampala,  June  20th,  1893  : — 

"  You  will  see  that  something  is  up  by  the  address, 
Kampala ;  we  have  had  exciting  times  again  these 
last  few  days,  but  I  am  thankful  to  say  that  things 
are,  I  think,  all  right  again  now ;  they  might  easily 
have  been  anything  but  all  right.  First  of  all,  so 
that  you  may  understand  the  events  of  the  last  few 
days,  let  me  explain  the  state  of  affairs.  Captain 
Lugard,  you  remember,  brought  some  500  Soudanese 
soldiers  with  their  '  Colonel,'  Selim  Bey — who  had 
mutinied  at  Wadelai  under  Emin  Pasha — from  the 
North.  He  also  brought  in  the  Mohammedan  party, 
and  gave  them  three  small  provinces  lying  close 
together  to  the  North-east  of  Budu.  Since  they 
came  into  the  country,  they  have  done  no  work  for 
the  king,  as  in  duty  bound. 

Sir  G.  Portal,  when  here,  insisted  that  they  should 
do   their  proper  work,  and  told  them  that,  if  they 


THE   FIRST   MUTINY.  211 

refused,  they  would  be  driven  out.  They  demanded  an 
increase  of  territory,  as  they  saw  that  the  Roman 
Catholics,  who  also,  hitherto,  have  done  no  work, 
had  received  so  large  an  increase.  This  was  refused 
by  Sir  G.  Portal,  and  the  attitude  of  the  Mohamme- 
dans had  been  threatening.  However,  Captain 
Macdonald,  who  was  left  in  charge  on  the  Consul's 
departure,  made  them  promise  to  work  about  ten 
days  ago,  and  they  sent  to  their  country  places  for 
men  to  come  and  work.  However,  our  people 
assured  us  that  they  did  not  mean  to  work,  and  were 
only  making  this  a  pretext  for  getting  up  their  guns, 
as  they  said  that  Selim  Bey  (of  course,  the  Soudanese 
are  Mohammedans  and  very  thick  with  the  Baganda 
Mohammedans)  had  promised,  and,  iadeed,  we  hear 
now,  sworn  on  the  Koran,  that,  in  case  of  war,  he 
would  help  the  Mohammedans.  This  fort  was 
garrisoned  by  some  lOO  of  the  Soudanese  ;  some  200 
more,  with  Selim  Bey,  were  at  Ntebe,  on  the  Lake, 
some  twenty-tive  miles  from  here  ;  and  another  150 
with  Major  Owen,  away  in  the  Toro  forts.  On 
Saturday  morning,  17th  June,  Captain  Macdonald 
came  round  to  tell  us  that  Selim  Bey  had  sent  him 
a  message,  the  night  before,  that  nothing  must  be 
done  respecting  the  Mohammedans  without  con- 
sulting him,  and  that  if  the  king  (Mwanga)  fought 
against  the  Mohammedans,  he  would  be  fighting 
with  him  (the  Bey).  Captain  Macdonald  had,  he 
told  us,  decided  to  take  the  bull  by  the  horns  :  he 
had  sent  for  Messrs.  Gedge  and  Reddie  to  come  up 
at  once  with  their  100  Swahilis  from  Ntebe  ;  they 
would  be  in  that  afternoon.       He  intended,  at  three 


PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

o'clock,  to  parade  the  Soudanese  at  the  Fort  as 
usual  and  tell  them  that  the  Bey  had  mutinied,  and 
ask  those  who  were  for  him  (Captain  Macdonald)  to 
go  off  to  one  side  and  those  for  the  Bey  to  the  other, 
when  he  proposed  disarming  the  latter;  also  he 
intended  to  tell  the  Mohammedans  that  they  must 
give  up  their  four  leading  chiefs  as  a  pledge  of  their 
peaceful  intentions,  by  that  evening,  or  he  would 
order  the  Protestants  to  attack  them  next  morning. 
So  he  wished  us  to  go  up  to  the  fort  at  mid-day,  that 
the  presence  of  a  large  number  of  Europeans  might 
overawe  the  Soudanese.  He  then  went  to  the 
French,  who  also  agreed  to  come  up. 

So  w^e  went  up  ;  the  Soudanese  all  protested  their 
loyalty,  and  Captain  Macdonald  got  the  Moham- 
medan chiefs  and  we  thought  it  was  all  over.  So 
we  went  back  to  our  places  that  Saturday  night. 

However,  first  thing  on  Saturday  morning  was  a 
note  from  Captain  Macdonald,  asking  us  to  go  over 
at  once.  Gedge  and  Reddie  had  come  in  in  the 
night,  and  the  Bey  had  told  the  latter  that,  in  case 
of  war,  he  meant  to  help  the  Mohammedans.  When 
Reddie  suggested  that  this  might  mean  fighting 
against  the  Europeans,  he  shrugged  his  shoulders. 
So  Captain  Macdonald,  considering  the  circum- 
stances very  serious,  had  decided  to  disarm  the 
Soudanese.  As  soon  as  we  reached  the  fort,  Captain 
Macdonald  asked  me  to  translate  the  following  into 
Luganda,  and  to  explain  it  to  the  Katikiro : — 
'  Whereas  Selim  Bey  has  mutinied,  and  whereas 
the  common  law  is  not  sufficient  for  the  emergency, 
I  hereby  declare  that  martial  law  is  in  force  through- 


THE    FIRST   MUTINY.  213 

out  this  country  of  U.c^anda  until  further  notice'  I 
have  missed  out  a  few  words  defining  the  common 
law,  but  this  gives  the  sense. 

He  then  armed  all  the  Swahilis,  150  or  so,  and  us 
Europeans,  and  put  the  Maxim  gun  in  position,  and 
marched  the  Soudanese  down  below,  and,  after 
explaining  things  to  them  in  a  speech,  ordered  them 
to  lay  down  their  arms,  which,  thank  God  !  they  did 
at  once. 

Meanwhile,  the  excitement  among  the  Baganda 
was  increasing ;  the  Mohammedans  had  brought  up 
300  or  500  guns  in  the  night,  and  had  already  beaten 
their  war  drums.  I  interpreted  for  Captain 
Macdonald  when  he  was  speaking  to  Mbogo  (the 
late  Mohammedan  king,  who  had  been  kept  at 
Kampala  all  through),  and  the  Mohammedan  chiefs, 
who  had  been  given  up  on  the  previous  da\',  so  I  can 
tell  you  exactly  what  he  told  them.  He  told  Mbogo 
that  all  his  men,  with  guns,  must  go  off  at  once  to 
Xatete,  the  Mohammedan  quarter;  that  if  all  had 
not  gone  by  noon,  he  (Mbogo)  would  be  responsible. 
They  all  went,  so  Mbogo  has  saved  himself. 

He  then  told  the  three  Mohammedan  chiefs  to 
send  to  their  people  and  order  them  back  to  their 
country  places,  and  that,  if  the  Mohammedans 
fought,  he  should  shoot  all  three.  They  said  that, 
if  one  of  their  number  went,  the  Mohammedans 
would  listen  to  him,  but  that  they  would  not  mind 
a  mere  message.  So  one  of  them  was  allowed  to 
go  on  promise  of  return,  but  he  never  came  back. 
During  this  interview,  Mbogo  came,  and  in  great 
fear   and  almost   with    tears,   upbraided   Juma,  the 


214  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

chief  of  the  Mohammedans,  with  writing  to  his 
people  to  come  up  and  fight,  saying  that  he  had 
been  against  it  all  through. 

About  one  o'clock,  the  Katikiro  sent  a  message 
that  the  Mohammedans  were  not  going,  so  Captain 
Macdonald  sent  a  message  to  them  by  one  of 
Mbogo's  men  that  he  w^ould  be  there  in  an  hour 
with  the  Maxim  gun,  and  if  he  found  them  there  he 
would  attack  them.  Twenty  minutes  later,  we 
heard  the  guns  firing,  in  the  Natete  direction,  and 
we  knew  that  war  was  inevitable.  A  few 
minutes  later,  a  message  came  from  the  Katikiro, 
that  the  Mohammedans  had  attacked  them,  and 
Captain  Williams  sent  back  the  message,  'Dispose 
of  them  all.'  The  next  news  was  a  wounded  man, 
whose  boy  told  me  that  the  Mohammedans  were  in 
flight,  and  the  pursuit  was  kept  up  right  to  the 
boundary  of  the  Mohammedan  country.  At  mid- 
day on  the  Monday,  the  Protestants  (all  the  Roman 
Catholics,  led  by  the  priests,  had  flitted  on  Saturday 
night)  came  back  to  ask  w^hether  they  should  drive 
the  Mohammedans  right  out.  Captain  Macdonald 
had  intended  and  expected  that  they  would  do  so, 
but,  as  they  had  spared  them  of  their  own  accord, 
he  told  them  to  leave  them  and  he  would  go  down 
and  see  their  chiefs  when  he  had  finished  matters  at 
Ntebe. 

Messages  were  accordingly  sent  to  those  who  had 
not  fought  to  stay  quietly  where  they  were,  and  the 
Europeans  would  go  dow^n  and  see  them  and 
arrange  matters.  I  heard  the  Katikiro  saying 
yesterday  to  the  king  that  they  must  do  all  they 


THE    FIRST   MUTINY.  ^15 

can  to  save  them.  I  think  that  in  this  they  ha\c 
showed  themselves  no  unworthy  disciples  of  their 
God  and  Saviour :  in  judgment,  they  have 
remembered  mercy  ;  in  the  flush  of  victory,  with 
the  enemy  running  before  them  and  all  their 
property  in  their  mercy,  they  voluntarily  refrained  ; 
the  first  time,  perhaps,  that  such  a  thing  has 
happened  in  the  history  of  Uganda. 

However,  I've  not  finished  my  story.  Captain 
Macdonald  asked  us  to  stay  at  Kampala  till  the 
trouble  was  over,  as  our  presence  would,  more  than 
anything,  intimidate  the  Bey  and  the  Soudanese  ;  so 
we  stayed,  and  some  of  us  took  a  couple  of  hours 
at  night  going  round  to  see  that  the  Guard  was 
all  right.  Yesterday  (Monday),  about  mid-day, 
news  came  in  that  the  Bey  was  on  the  move, 
intending,  apparently,  to  skirt  the  capital  and  join 
the  Mohammedans.  The  Protestants  had  just 
returned,  3,000  guns,  and  they  were  told  to  go  out 
and  intercept  him,  and  kill  them  every  one.  But 
it  proved  to  be  a  false  alarm  ;  the  Bey  had  sent  up 
ten  men  with  guns,  and  twenty  others  to  say  that 
he  was  ready  to  obey  Captain  Macdonald  in  every- 
thing, and  to  explain  away  his  messages  to  the 
Captain  and  his  words  to  Mr.  Reddie.  This 
morning  (Tuesday)  Captain  Macdonald  and  four 
other  Europeans  w^ith  the  Maxim,  and  500  Baganda 
with  guns,  and,  of  course,  innumerable  spearmen, 
have  gone  to  Ntebe  to  settle  the  Bey.  They 
anticipate  that  the  Soudanese  will  all  be  loyal  and 
lay  down  their  arms,  and  I  expect  that  tlie  Be} , 
who    was   the   real   cause    of  all  this   trouble  and 


216  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA 

Sunday's  bloodshed,  and  who,  but  for  Captain 
Macdonald's  prompt  action,  might  have  had  all  of 
us  in  chains — as  he  once  had  Emin — will  be  shot. 

Juma,  the  Mohammedan  chief,  is  in  the  chain 
gang ;  Mbogo  is  here,  very  cheerful  apparently, 
because  he  is  exonerated  from  blame  ;  I  hope  it  will 
be  possible  to  spare  Juma's  life:  he  is  quite  a  young 
man  and  he  has  had  a  terrible  lesson." 

"  Namirembe, 

Saturday,  July  12th. 

The  Soudanese  laid  down  their  arms  all  right 
and  the  Bey  was  court-martialed  and  condemned 
to  be  degraded  and  sent  away  to  an  island  on  the 
Lake,  Nsagi  by  name.  Last  Monday,  all  the 
Protestants  went  off  to  drive  out  the  Mohammedans. 
No  news  yet  except  that  half  the  Mohammedans 
want  peace." 

I  have  not  yet  mentioned  the  death  of  Captain 
Portal,  by  sunstroke,  about  a  month  ago.  He  was 
buried  up  at  the  Church  by  Hannington  and  De 
Winton. 

In  all  this.  Captain  Macdonald  has  acted  in  the 
promptest,  bravest,  and  wisest  manner.  God  gave 
the  right  man  for  the  right  place." 

Few  will  doubt  that  the  English  Missionaries 
were  right  in  standing  by  the  British  authorities. 
They  were  not  asked  to  take  arms  against  the  people 
of  the  country,  but  to  help  to  overawe  by  their 
presence  the  mutinous  Soudanese  troops  who  were 
foreigners  to  the  country.  Had  they  refused,  it  is 
possible  that  the  British  administration  would  have 


THE    FIRST   MUTINY.  217 

been  swept  away,  and  Mohammedanism,  with  its 
slave-raiding  and  cruelty,  have  reigned  supreme. 
Pilkington's  story  of  these  events  is  a  clear 
one.  It  may,  however,  be  interesting  to  give 
Captain  Macdonald's  account  of  his  appeal  to  the 
Missionaries. 

"  I  visited  the  Church  Missionary  Society  in 
Namirembe,  where  I  saw  Mr.  Pilkington,  who  at 
once  summoned  the  Head  of  the  Mission,  the  Rev. 
J.  Roscoe,  at  that  time  engaged  at  the  church  in 
superintending  classes.  To  these  two  gentlemen 
the  situation  was  explained.  I  told  them  my  hopes 
that  a  rapid  initiative  would  defeat  the  proposed 
combination  in  detail,  and  that  the  best  chance  of 
success  appeared  to  be  in  all  the  Europeans  showing 
a  united  front,  irrespective  of  creed  or  profession 
At  the  same  time,  should  they  prefer  to  do  so,  they 
were  free  to  withdraw  to  the  Eastern  provinces 
while  there  was  yet  time  ;  but  I  explained  that  such 
a  proceeding  would  necessarily  have  a  very  dispirit- 
ing effect  on  the  Protestant  Waganda  and  might 
lead  to  their  flight  from  the  capital.  Other  members 
of  the  Mission  were  called  in,  and  it  need  hardly  be 
said  that,  in  an  assemblage  of  Englishmen  con- 
fronted with  a  crisis  like  this,  there  was  no  dis- 
sentient voice,  b|it  one  and  all  decided  to  stand 
or  fall  by  me  as  the  representative  of  British 
authority. 

I  then  went  to  the  Roman  Catholic  Mission 
Station,  at  Rubaga,  and  explained  the  situation  and 
proposals,  in  almost  the  same  words  that  I  had 
used  at  Namirembe.     Here,   too,   the   Missionaries 


218  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

resolved  to  stand  by  the  Government.  Both 
Missions  having  thus  decided  to  support  me,  it  was 
arranged  that  the  Missionaries  should  come  to 
Kampala  in  the  afternoon — not  in  a  body,  so  as  to 
create  alarm,  but  dropping  in  by  twos  and  threes." 

After  all  was  over,  the  Consul  wrote  thanking 
the  Missionaries  for  their  *'  valuable  services," 
and  adding  that  "  the  record  of  their  invaluable 
services  will  be  laid  before  Her  Majesty's  Secretary 
of  State  at  the  first  opportunity." 

One  of  the  most  striking  points  in  connection 
with  the  suppression  of  the  mutiny  was  the  part 
played  by  the  Protestant  Baganda.  Captain  Mac- 
donald  particularly  mentions  the  Sekibobo,  the  title 
by  which  Nikodemo,  one  of  the  most  important 
Protestant  chiefs,  was  known,  who  was  with  him 
when  he  went  to  arrest  Selim  Bey. 

Writing  of  this  incident  in  his  recent  book.  Captain 
Macdonald  says  : — 

"The  Sekibobo  managed  his  men  excellently. 
When  I  went  to  arrest  the  Bey,  several  small 
columns  were  draw^n  up  concealed  by  a  fold  in  the 
ground,  but  ready  to  rush  into  the  Soudanese 
quarter  had  the  Bey's  private  following  offered  any 
resistance  ;  and  when,  before  nightfall,  a  European 
inspected  the  Sekibobo's  arrangement  of  pickets 
and  sentries,  there  was  really  nothing  to  alter. 
With  this  stern  old  Waganda  chief,  it  was  like  a 
return  to  the  ancient  Covenanting  days  in  Scotland  : 
for,  every  evening,  the  day's  work  closed  with  a 
prayer-meeting  conducted  by  the  Sekibobo  in 
person,  and  always  largely  attended  by  his  follow^ers. 


THE    FIRST   MUTINY.  219 

The  discipline  he  maintained  in  his  contingent  was 
particularly  good  and  he  carried  out  my  orders  in 
the  spirit,  not  merely  in  the  letter." 

Pilkington,  referring  to  his  death  nearly  two 
years  later,  speaks  of  him  as  follows:  "We  have 
had  a  great  loss  ;  our  dear  brother  Nikodemo,  kind, 
good,  earnest,  Christian  man  (the  Sekibobo,  i.e., 
chief  of  Kyagwe),  also  one  of  those  ordained  deacon, 
has  been  taken  from  us.  As  great  a  loss  as 
Sembera's  personally  to  us  and  to  the  work :  the 
Lord  who  gave  him  can  fill  up  the  vacant  place.'* 

The  great  change  is  all  the  more  remarkable 
when  it  is  realized  from  what  degrading  superstitions 
the  heathen  of  Uganda  have  been  delivered. 

The  nature  of  this  is  described  in  a  letter  from 
Pilkington,  shortly  after  the  mutiny,  as  follows : — 

"  You  ask  about  the  religion  of  the  people  here. 
They  had  an  elaborate  religion ;  each  county  or 
province  had  its  tutelar  god  (lubale) ;  each  god  had 
several  shrines,  w^here  there  lived  the  priest  and  the 
'  Mandwa,'  i.e.,  a  man  supposed  to  be  possessed  by 
the  god  ;  people  gave  offerings  which  priest  and 
Mandwa  shared,  besides  which  a  great  many 
gardens  were  given  up  to  the  lubale. 

People  came  and  enquired  of  them  as  at  an  oracle 
the  priest  was  the  medium,  the  Mandwa  gave  the 
answers.  Besides  this,  the  spirits  of  dead  people 
were  supposed  to  possess  the  Mandwas  in  the  same 
way  as  gods,  especially  the  spirits  of  dead  kings. 
Mutesa,  before  he  died,  told  the  people  that  if,  after 
liis  death,  anyone  professed  to  be  possessed  by  his 
spirit,  they  were  to  tell  him  to  read  an  Arabic  book. 


220  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

and,  if  he  failed,  they  would  know  he  was  an 
impostor  as  he  (Mutesa)  knew  how  to  read  it ;  and 
this  actually  happened,  and  the  Mandwa  was  well 
beaten  for  his  pains. 

The  same  king  had  a  favourite  dog  which  died, 
and  a  man  professed  to  be  possessed  by  its  spirit, 
and  would  do  nothing  but  bark  ! 

When  a  man  is  possessed  in  this  way,  and  some 
beer  is  brought  in,  they  all  drink,  and  the  spirit 
leaves  him ;  then  the  Mandwa  is  sure  to  upbraid  his 
friends  for  not  leaving  any  for  him,  and  when  they 
are  surprised,  he  explains  that  he  didn't  drink  any, 
it  was  the  god.  The  great  rivers  or  marshes,  too, 
were  regarded  as  gods,  and,  before  crossing,  they 
would  throw^  in  coffee-berries,  or  human  beings,  to 
propitiate  them.  Periodically,  they  sacrificed  human 
beings  to  both  river  and  other  gods,  500  at  a  time. 
There  were  special  places  where  these  human 
sacrifices  were  made  till  only  a  few  years  ago." 

The  mutiny  having  been  thus  vigorously  dealt 
with,  peace  was  speedily  re-established,  and 
Missionary  work,  which  had  been  suspended  for  a 
short  period,  was  carried  on  with  redoubled  energy. 

Selim  Bey  was  sent  away  from  the  country,  but 
died  on  his  way  to  the  coast. 


CHAPTER   XII. 


A    REVIVAL. 


Hitherto  we  have  dealt  chiefly  with  the  U^^^anda 
Mission,  and  the  part  played  in  it  by  the  chief 
character  in  our  story,  from  what  may  be  called  the 
external  point  of  view. 

We  have  watched  him  as  he  first  took  his  place 
in  the  Missionary  circle  at  Mengo,  daily  gaining  in 
influence  over  the  natives  as  he  grew  more  and 
more  familiar  with  their  language ;  his  counsel  in- 
creasingly valued  by  his  colleagues,  in  many  a 
diflicult  problem  connected  with  the  work,  and 
appealed  to  by  the  British  authorities  to  act  as  their 
interpreter  on  every  occasion  when  accuracy  and 
secrecy  were  particularly  needed. 

In  his  hands,  during  this  time,  the  translation  of 
the  Bible  had  made  rapid  progress,  and  the  number 
of  readers  became  so  great  that  their  eagerness  for 
books  could  not  be  satisfied. 

These  external  results,  the  only  thing  which  the 
world  looks  for,  might  have  satisfied  some,  but  they 
were  not  enough  for  George  Pilkington. 

It  is  true  that  there  were  outward  and  visible 
signs  which  betokened  prosperit}-,  but  was  there  in 
proportion  the  inward  and  spiritual  grace  ?     It  was 


222  PILKINGTON   OP   UGANDA. 

this  for  which  he  sought,  but  the  dearth  of  spiritual 
results  was  to  him  and  his  fellow  Missionaries  a 
keen  disappointment.  Pilkington  himself  was  so 
much  discouraged,  that  he  spoke  of  giving  up 
Missionary  work  altogether,  unless  some  change 
took  place.  For  a  time,  it  is  said  that  he  used  to 
absent  himself  from  the  prayer  meetings  held 
amongst  the  Missionaries. 

In  this  state  of  mind  he  went  alone  for  a  visit  to 
the  Island  of  Kome,  and  it  was  there  that  he  learnt 
the  great  secret  of  the  indwelling  power  of  the  Holy 
Spirit,  which  transformed  his  whole  life. 

Speaking  of  this  at  a  great  gathering  of  students 
in  Liverpool,  in  January,  1896,  he  said : — 

"  If  it  had  not  been  that  God  enabled  me,  after 
three  years  in  the  Mission  field,  to  accept  by  faith 
the  gift  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  I  should  have  given  up 
the  work.  I  could  not  have  gone  on  as  I  was  then. 
A  book  by  David,  the  Tamil  evangelist,  shewed  me 
that  my  life  was  not  right,  that  I  had  not  the  power 
of  the  Holy  Ghost.  I  had  consecrated  myself 
hundreds  of  times,  but  I  had  not  accepted  God's  gift. 
I  saw  now  that  God  commanded  me  to  be  filled  with 
the  Spirit.  Then  I  read,  '  All  things  whatsoever 
ye  pray  and  ask  for,  believe  that  ye  have  received 
them,  and  ye  shall  have  them,'  and,  claiming 
this  promise,  I  received  the  Holy  Spirit. 

Another  verse  which  impressed  me  was,  St.  John 
xvi.,  7 — 'It  is  expedient  for  you  that  I  go  away; 
for  if  I  go  not  away,  the  Comforter  will  not  come 
unto  you  ;  but  if  I  go  I  will  send  Him  unto  you.'  " 

But  perhaps  the  clearest  view  of  the  influence  on 


A   REVIVAL.  223 

his  life  of  this  remarkable  experience,  may  be  gained 
from  a  letter  written  by  him  to  his  mother  on  May 
30th,  1895.  He  writes : — "  Next  Sunday  is 
Whit-Sunday.  Oh,  for  another  Pentecost  here,  and 
at  home.  '  He  that  believeth  on  Me  out  of  his  belly 
shall  flow  rivers  (not  a  stream  or  a  single  river)  of 
living  water.  Greater  works  than  these  shall  ye  do, 
because  I  go  unto  the  Father.'  Where  are  these 
rivers  and  where  are  these  mighty  works  ?  We 
must  ask  rather,  where  '  is  he  that  believeth  on 
Him  ? '  Surely  He  is  not  unfaithful  to  a  single  line 
of  His  promise.  What  w^onder  that  infidelity 
abounds,  when  the  worst  infidelity  of  all  is  in  our 
own  hearts.  What  wonder  that  Popery  increases, 
when  we  have  dethroned  the  Holy  Spirit  from  our 
hearts.  What  wonder  that  Mohammedanism  defies 
us,  and  still  occupies  vast  fields  once  held  for 
Christ,  when  Mohammed's  successors  can  still  ask 
as  the  false  prophet  himself  did,  '  Where,  but  in 
Mohammed  is  the  promised  Paraclete  ?  '  Even 
the  Mohammedans  here,  ignorant  as  they  are,  ask 
that.  Praise  be  to  God,  many  of  our  people  here  can 
answer,  '  In  my  heart  and  life.'  May  abundant 
fruit  of  the  Spirit  in  our  lives  prove  our  witness 
true. 

The  people  here  are  hungry  and  thirsty  for  the 
Holy  Ghost,  they  are  searching  the  New  and  (as  far 
as  they  have  it)  the  Old  Testament  to  see  if  these 
things  which  we  tell  them  be  so.  I  am  looking  for 
a  wonderful  outpouring  of  the  Holy  Spirit  on  them. 
'  I  will  pour  water  on  him  that  is  thirsty,  and 
floods  on  the  dry  ground.'     (Is.  44,  3.)     From  God 


224  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

has  this  thirst  come  in  our  souls  here  for  the  Holy 
Spirit,  and  He  who  gave  the  thirst  is  also  satisfying 
it,  and  will  satisfy  it  to  the  full. 

It  would  be  an  easier  thing  for  the  Church 
of  Uganda  to  evangelize  in  twenty  years  all 
unevangelized  Africa  than  it  was  for  the  Primitive 
Church  to  evangelize  as  far  as  she  did  in  the  same 
period.  The  Waganda  are  born  Missionaries,  they 
are  splendid  travellers,  and  in  ability,  a  good  deal 
above,  so  far  as  is  known,  the  nations  round  them  ; 
their  country  is  an  island  in  a  vast  sea  of  ignorance ; 
they  have  been  brought  in  contact  with,  and  have 
learnt  to  contend  with,  the  three  forms  of  darkness 
which  they  will  meet  in  Africa :  Heathenism, 
Mohammedanism,  and  Popery.  What  we  want 
first,  middle,  and  last,  is  the  Holy  Spirit.  The 
Holy  Spirit  is  Christ  in  the  heart.  See  Rom.  viii. 
and  Eph.  iii. 

This  reminds  me  that  you  once  wrote  as  if  you 
thought  that  I  had  meant  to  say  that,  till  eighteen 
months  ago,  I  had  not  had  the  presence  or  the  help 
of  the  Holy  Spirit  in  my  work.  I  never  meant  to 
convey  that  impression.  I  distinguish  between  the 
presence  of  the  Holy  Spirit  with  us  and  in  us  ;  our 
blessed  Lord  said  to  His  disciples,  '  He  is  with  you 
and  shall  be  in  you.'  John  xiv.  It  is  the  birthright 
of  every  Christian  to  have  the  Holy  Spirit  in  him, 
to  be  full  of  the  Holy  Ghost  as  St.  Paul  commanded 
the  Ephesians  to  be,  but  I  believe  that  my  unbelief 
and  other  sins  was  a  hindrance  to  the  Holy  Spirit 
in  my  own  heart  till  about  eighteen  months  ago, 
when    God  Himself,  I  humbly  believe,  opened,    or 


A    REVIVAL.  225 

enabled  me  to  'open  the  door,'  and  He  came  in, 
according  to  His  gracious  promise,  to  sup  with  me, 
even  me,  and  I  with  Him.  Amazing  condescension 
and  mercy  to  such  an  awful,  awful,  awful  sinner  as 
I  know  myself  to  be." 

On  December  7th,  1893,  Pilkington  returned 
to  Mengo  from  Kome,  and  everyone  noticed 
the  wonderful  change  in  Him.  His  very  face  told 
of  the  reality  of  the  change.  His  boys  noticed  it, 
the  Christians  of  Uganda  were  conscious  of  it  and 
all  who  came  in  contact  with  him,  and  that  not  only 
from  his  words  but  in  a  thousand  little  ways  which 
speak  more  forcibly  than  the  most  eloquent  sermon. 
But  it  was  not  only  Pilkington  who  was  thus 
blessed,  others  of  the  mission  party  had  been  led 
to  seek  a  special  blessing  from  God,  and  thus  thev 
were  able  to  rejoice  together. 

Of  this  Baskerville  writes  on  December  8th: — 
''  Pilkington  got  back  yesterday  from  Kome  about 
5.30  ;  he  came  over  to  dinner  with  us  at  Roscoe's, 
and  told  of  the  glorious  times  he  had  had  on 
Kome.  He  told  us,  too,  how  he  had  definitely, 
while  away,  received  by  faith  the  Baptism  of  the 
Holy  Ghost,  and  manifestation  of  His  power  had 
followed.  People  had  testified  to  the  saving  power 
of  Christ,  including  Christians  of  some  standing,  I 
mean  some  who  had  been  baptized  but  who  as  yet 
had  not  really  accepted  Christ.  One  man,  a 
genuine  native  of  Kome,  stood  up  and  said,  '  You 
see  me  a  native  born,  not  a  Waganda,  not  a  native 
of  Kome,  do  not  call  me  any  longer  by  my  old 
name,   for   I    have  been   born   anew.*     Others  said, 

9 


226  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

'  I   was  blind,    now   I   see.'     Praise  to   God  for  His 
goodness." 

Baskerville  continues :  "  It  has  been  our  private 
wish  for  some  time  to  have  some  mission  services 
here.  We  can  scarcely  hope  for  special  missioners 
until  a  railway  comes,  and  it  occurred  to  us  that 
God  wants  to  use  us.  We  all,  in  prayer,  dedicated 
ourselves  to  Him,  and  asked  Him  to  baptize  us 
anew.  This  morning  we  began  ;  we  had  not  told 
the  people  but  w^ent  up  after  prayer  at  the  usual 
time,  believing  for  a  blessing.  Pilkington  conducted 
the  meeting.  We  began  with  our  version  of  '  Have 
you  been  to  Jesus  for  the  cleansing  power,'  and  then 
Pilkington  prayed.  He  began  by  speaking  about  a 
man,  a  very  sad  case  which  has  been  the  indirect 
cause  of  these  meetings.  A  certain  Musa  Yakuganda 
has  come  to  us  and  told  us  that  he  gets  no  profit  from 
our  religion,  and  wants  to  have  his  name  given  out 
as  having  returned  to  the  state  of  a  Heathen.  Asked 
if  he  knew  what  he  said,  he  replied,  '  Do  you  think 
I  have  been  reading  seven  years,  and  do  not  under- 
stand ?  Your  religion  does  not  profit  me  at  all.  I 
have  done  with  it.'  Pilkington  pointed  out  what  a 
cause  of  shame  this  was  to  us.  .  .  .  I  cannot  on 
paper  describe  every  detail  of  the  meeting.  On  two 
occasions,  some  hundreds  were  all  praying  for  for- 
giveness, others  praising  in  the  simplest  language. 
We  left  the  church  at  twelve,  having  been 
there  since  8.30.  Roscoe  is  now  with  some  of  the 
teachers,  and  Pilkington  has  some  boys  in  the  next 
room.  We  go  up  to  the  church  directly  to  another 
service," 


A    REVIVAL.  227 

The  Rev.  J.  Roscoe  writes  of  the  services  on  the 
next  day,  December  gth  : — "  We  have  had  another 
day  of  great  spiritual  blessing.  At  each  service  God 
was  present,  and  souls  were  brought  into  union  w^th 
Jesus  Christ.  The  beaming  faces  of  some  who  found 
peace  yesterday  were  sufficient  testimony  to  their 
changed  state,  and  words  were  unnecessary.  The 
Katikiro  wrote  his  testimony  ;  in  September  he  found 
peace,  but  has  now  entered  into  fuller  blessing. 
Each  morning  we  have  had  fully  500  present  at 
these  meetings.  This  afternoon,  we  had  a  specially 
solemn  service  for  those  who  had  the  assurance  of 
salvation,  about  200  being  present.  We  expect  from 
the  Lord  showers  of  blessing  to-morrow,  and  await 
the  outpouring  of  His  Spirit  in  faith. 

loth  (Sunday).  We  are  in  the  midst  of  a  great 
spiritual  revival.  To  the  Lord  be  praise  and  glory 
and  honour  !  Our  joy  is  beyond  expression.  After 
the  morning  service,  fully  200  stayed  to  be  spoken 
to,  and  I  believe  the  majority  w^ent  away  rejoicing  in 
the  Lord." 

Baskerville  adds :  "  Musa  has  come  back.  It  is 
grand.  He  was  in  the  Church  when  Pilkington  told 
the  people  about  him,  at  the  first  meeting,  on  Friday. 
No  one  dreamt  of  his  being  there.  The  Lord  had 
brought  him." 

The  Rev.  Ernest  Millargives  the  following  account 
of  the  mission  : — "The  majorit}'  of  those  converted 
could  read  a  little,  but  some  could  not  read  at-  all, 
and,  on  being  converted,  at  once  wished  to  learn  to 
read.  One  of  Pilkington's  bayima  (cow  boys)  came 
out  very  brightly,  and  told  the  others  about   God's 


228  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

love,  the  consequence  being  that  on  the  next  day 
one  of  our  Bayima,  whom  we  had  previously  not 
thought  much  of,  came  to  me,  and  said  he  had 
accepted  the  gift  of  God,  eternal  life,  and  now  wished 
to  have  a  reading  book,  that  he  might  learn  to  read. 
Needless  to  say,  I  gave  him  a  book  at  once,  and  we 
can  see  the  change  in  his  life — he  is  quite  a  different 
man,  and  full  of  joy ;  since  then,  another  cowboy 
has  come  forward.  This  is  the  more  wonderful, 
because  the  Bayima  are  generally  very  backward  in 
learning  to  read.  (The  Bayima  are  the  tribe  whose 
especial  care  is  that  of  looking  after  cattle  ;  there  is 
a  proverb  to  the  effect  that  you  can  more  easily  kill 
a  Muyima  than  you  can  take  his  cattle.)  The 
Mission  only  lasted  three  days,  but  the  effect  will,  I 
trust,  last  for  ever.  One  remarkable  feature  of  this 
work,  in  the  eyes  of  outsiders,  is  that  the  great  chiefs 
in  the  land  were  not  afraid  to  confess  that  they  had 
not  hitherto  accepted  Christ,  and  that  they  wished 
to  do  so.  At  the  service  at  the  king's,  on  the  last 
day  of  the  mission,  one  chief,  who  had  been  one  of 
the  leading  teachers,  but  had  been  suspended  for 
misconduct,  confessed,  in  front  of  the  king  and  his 
boys,  that  he  had  not  previously  accepted  the  Lord 
Jesus  as  his  Saviour,  but  did  so  then.  We  had 
special  meetings  for  the  deepening  of  the  spiritual 
life  during  the  week  which  followed  the  mission,  and 
we  trust  that  many  were  helped." 

One  other  missionary,  Mr.  R.  H.  Leakey,  gives 
his  impressions  of  these  wonderful  three  days ;  he 
writes : — 

''  You  will  have  heard  from  other  Missionaries  of 


A    REVIVAL.  229 

the  special  services  here,  on  December  8th,  gth, 
and  loth,  and  of  the  wonderful  blessing  we  had. 
Many,  who  had  long  been  looked  upon  as  leading 
Christians,  realized  a  new  force  and  power  in  their 
Christian  life.  Some  said  to  us,  '  Why  have  you 
been  here  so  long  and  never  told  us  this  glad  news 
before  ? '  All  we  could  say  was,  '  You  have  been 
been  told,  but  have  not  believed  it.'  May  God 
forgive  us  for  any  lack  of  power,  or  of  faith,  or  of 
prayer  on  our  part.  .  .  .  Before  the  services  we 
prayed  with  power  to  God,  and  then  went  to  them, 
expecting  great  blessings,  and  we  got  more  than  we 
had  dared  to  expect.  I  never  in  my  life  so  realized 
the  power  of  the  Spirit  of  God  present  to  save  and 
working  in  our  midst  as  I  did  at  those  meetings." 

The  reason  why  it  was  necessary  to  hold  the 
Mission,  without  time  for  preparation,  was  that 
the  Baganda  army  was  about  to  start  for  Bunyoro, 
to  fight  with  King  Kabarega,  and  Pilkington  elected 
to  accompany  the  Baganda  troops,  as  their  chaplain. 
Of  this,  Baskerville  writes  : — 

"  13th. — Pilkington  has  gone.  On  Monday  night 
he  told  us  that  God  was  calling  him  to  go  out  to  the 
war  with  the  Baganda.  We  all  felt  it  to  be  the 
right  thing,  and  all  has  been  arranged  well,  and  he 
left  this  morning.  He  will  be  thrown  in  contact 
daily  with  hundreds  of  people,  who  never  come  near 
the  capital,  drawn  from  every  corner  of  the  country, 
many  of  them  Roman  Catholics  and  Mohammedans. 
He  is  not  travelling  with  the  white  men  from  the 
Fort,  but  with  the  Baganda.  He  wanted  at  first  to 
go  without  a  tent,  but  the  people  would  not  hear  of 


230  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

it,  nor  indeed  would  we.  They  have  f^iven  him 
about  ten  porters.  The  people  are  all  delighted 
that  he  has  gone — their  joy  was  very  touching.  In 
fact,  we  are  all  about  as  full  of  joy  as  we  can 
hold,  and  the  people  are  particularly  rejoiced  that 
Pilkington  has  gone.  All  say  what  a  unique  oppor- 
tunity he  will  have.  He  has  two  cows  with  him, 
and  he  will,  I  am  sure,  be  well  looked  after  by  the 
people.  Last  night  we  had  a  very  solemn  service 
as  a  farewell,  the  Colonel,  and  all  the  men  at  the 
Fort  came,  but  one.  Pilkington  preached  a  short 
sermon,  and  several  of  them  particularly  thanked  us." 

Captain  Villiers,  speaking  of  Pilkington's  presence 
with  the  Baganda  army  on  this  occasion,  remarks 
that  it  w^as  "  the  cause  of  their  abandoning  all  their 
former  ideas  of  warfare,  and  behaving  as  well  as 
civilized  troops."  It  may  be  well  to  add  that 
Pilkington  was  strictly  a  non-combatant  on  this 
occasion.  News  received  from  him  by  the  Mission- 
aries in  Mengo  is  given  by  Mr.  Baskerville,  who 
writes  : — 

"  Two  letters  have  come  from  Pilkington  since  he 
left  for  the  war,  the  second  from  Kadoma's,  ten 
miles  over  the  Buganda  frontier  and  their  first 
camping-place  in  Bunyoro.  In  his  first  letter 
he  says,  '  Some  twenty-five  have  professed  salvation 
since  w^e  left  Mengo '  ;  in  his  second,  he  says,  '  The 
Mohammedans  are  listening  eagerly,  even  their 
chiefs  come  to  hear.  I  have  preached  to  great 
crowds  four  times,  numbering  from  i,ooo  to  2,000, 
and  on  Sunday  Zacharia  preached  a  capital  sermon 
to  some  2,000  people."  " 


A    REVIVAL.  231 

On  returning  from  the  expedition  against 
Kabarega,  Pilkington  paid  a  visit  to  Singo,  where 
Mr.  Fisher  was  at  work.  Here  he  was  greatly 
struck  with  the  plan,  adopted  by  Mr.  Fisher,  of 
erecting  reading  houses,  or,  as  the  people  called 
them,  "  Synagogi,"  where  they  could  be  instructed 
by  native  teachers  under  the  direction  of  more 
experienced  workers,  these  in  turn  being  supervised 
by  the  European  in  charge  of  the  district. 

On  returning  to  Mengo,  Pilkington  proposed  that 
this  plan  should  be  adopted  much  more  widely,  and 
he  and  Baskerville  decided  to  delay  their  return 
to  England  until  this  new  movement  could  be 
organized. 

Thus  it  became  possible  to  bring  the  more 
distant  places  into  closer  touch  with  the  centre  of 
the  work,  and  the  revival,  which  had  started  in  the 
capital,  spread  in  the  same  year  far  and  wide  through 
the  outlying  stations  of  the  Mission. 

A  letter  written  by  Pilkington  on  the  ist  of  April, 
1894,  gives  some  account  of  the  sending  forth  of 
new  teachers.     He  writes  : — 

''  A  good  many  teachers — between  thirty  and  forty 
— have  offered  to  go  out  and  teach  in  the  country 
parts ;  we  had  a  sort  of  '  dismissal '  last  Sunday, 
when  thirteen  were  sent,  and  another  seven  are  to 
be  dismissed  this  afternoon,  including  a  very  faithful 
boy  of  mine  called  Musa  (Moses),  who  will  be  a 
great  loss  to  me,  but,  I  believe,  a  great  gain  to  the 
work. 

Leakey  came  back  yesterday  from  South  of  Lake 
with  120  loads  of  books  (a  load  is  70  lbs.),  i.e,  three 


232  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

and  a  half  tons,  800  New   Testaments,  only   I  wish 
it  were  8000. 

Captain  Macdonald  is  going  home.  We  owe  him 
a  great  debt.  He  saved  this  country.  He  has  won 
the  confidence  of  all  the  people  by  firmness,  good 
sense,  and  kindness.  We  are  very  sorry  indeed  that 
he  is  going ;  we  shall  hardly  see  his  equal  again. 

We  hope  very  much  that  he  may  come  back 
here  again. 

I  hope  before  long  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  Islands ; 
we  hear  there  has  been  an  enormous  increase  of 
'reading'  in  them  lately  :  and  so  I  hope  to  find  large 
congregations  to  whom  to  preach  the  Gospel,  and  I 
expect  many  will  be  saved  through  the  mercy  of 
God  and  the  outpouring  of  the  Holy  Spirit." 

At  the  end  of  July  and  during  the  month  of 
August,  Pilkington  visited  the  Islands  in  company 
the  Rev.  Ernest  Millar.  In  most  cases  they  were 
received  with  the  greatest  enthusiasm.  Mission 
services  were  held  with  splendid  results.  Candidates 
for  baptism  were  examined  and  baptized,  and  a 
great  impulse  given  to  reading.  One  serious 
interruption  to  the  work  at  Mengo  occurred  not  long 
after  his  return  from  the  journey,  which  he  records 
as  follows,  writing  on  4th  of  October,  1894  : — 

"  Last  Tuesday  I  was  sitting  in  this  room  when 
my  cook,  a  woman,  rushed  in,  saying,  '  The  Church 
has  fallen,  and  I  don't  know  whether  people  haven't 
been  killed  in  it.'  There  was  at  the  time  a 
tremendous  storm  of  wind  and  rain.  Thank  God 
no  people  had  been  killed.  Walker  w^as  last  out  of 
the  Church.      He    refused    to    believe    that    it    was 


A    REVIVAL.  233 

falling,  till  he  saw  the  great  poles  actually  coming 
down  on  him,  and  only  just  got  out  when  down  it  came. 
The  poles  apparently  sound,  and  not  leaning  in  the 
least,  had  rotted  inside  and  broke  off  one  after  the 
other  under  the  great  pressure  of  wind,  aided  by  the 
enormous  weight  of  the  grass  roof,  drenched  by  the 
downpour  of  rain. 

It  seems  a  calamity,  but  we  believe  that  God's 
hand  is  in  it  ;  I  daresay,  as  in  Acts  viii.,  he  wants 
to  scatter  our  work  more  in  the  dark  surrounding 
country. 

They  are  going  to  build  another  with  a  different 
kind  of  wood,  palm  trees,  and  we  hope  on  a  some- 
what improved  principle.  But  it  is  difficult  to  make 
so  vast  a  building  safe  without  mortar  or  ironwork. 

.  .  .  ,  We  have  had  great  encouragement 
among  the  Mohammedans  lately.  Two  of  them, 
friends  of  mine,  converted  I  believe,  and  two 
others,  leading  men  among  them,  intending  to 
come  out. 

I  believe  that  there  is  a  Spirit  of  enquiry  among 
the  Roman  Catholics  such  as  I  have  never  seen 
before.  Not  less  than  three  or  four  of  them  daily, 
often  more,  come  to  see  me  to  talk  about  things,  in 
ones  and  twos.  They  are  on  the  most  friendly 
terms  with  me. 

Before  the  Church  fell,  2,000  at  least  w^ere  coming 
every  week-day  morning,  besides,  I  should  think,  at 
least  7,000  more  in  the  200  country  Churches.  On 
Sunday  not  less  than  20,000  in  the  various  Churches. 
Of  these,  6,000  were  under  regular  instruction  in 
classes  ;  and   this   vast    work  extendi n^^  riirht   down 


234  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

to  Koki  and  Toro  on  one  side,  and  Busoga  on  the 
other,  200  miles  in  one  direction  and  lOO  in  the 
other,  has  to  be  directed  by  twelve  Europeans,  often 
down  with  fever,  and  knowing  the  language  very 
imperfectly.  The  natives  can't  yet  organise  ;  they 
are  good  when  led,  they  seem  unable  to  lead  yet. 
Oh  that  they  may  be  led  by  the  Holy  Ghost !  They 
are  improving,  one  of  them  is  doing  a  grand 
work  about  ten  miles  to  the  north  of  Mengo,  really 
organising,  I  think.  May  God  give  us  many  like 
him.  He  used  to  be  a  strong  opponent  of  present 
salvation,  but  thank  God,  no  longer  so. 

I  want  to  finish  translating  the  Old  Testament, 
and  that,  with  seeing  after  the  teachers,  who  have 
been  sent  into  the  country,  teaching  daily  a  class  of 
would-be  teachers  in  Romans,  and  holding  a  service, 
half  in  the  open  air,  in  the  neighbourhood  every 
afternoon,  leaves  me  but  little  time  for  corres- 
pondence. 

The  Mohammedans  here  tell  me  that  they  believe 
and  love  the  Lord  Jesus,  and  I  believe  that,  in  a 
sense,  they  do ;  but  it  is  not  the  same  Jesus  that  I 
know." 

Writing  again  on  Sunday,  4th  November,  1894, 
he  continues: — "The  work  goes  on  wonderfully; 
our  reading  sheets  have  run  out ;  we  are  anxiously 
expecting  more.  Every  afternoon  I  am  now  going 
for  an  hour  or  two,  to  the  Mohammedan  quarter, 
Natete,  the  C.  M.  S.  Station  in  Mackay's  days,  and 
have  a  sort  of  friendly  discussion,  consisting  chiefly 
of  reading  the  Scriptures,  with  the  Mohammedans ; 
they  have  themselves  invited  me,  and  we  are  great 


A   REVIVAL.  235 

friends,  they  are  not  like  the  bigoted  Mohammedans 
of  India,  and  still  they  are  quite  bigoted  enough. 
They  ask  me  questions  such  as :  'Is  Jesus  the  Son 
of  God  ?  '  '  What  about  Abraham  ? '  '  Why  don't 
you  keep  the  law  of  Moses  ?  '  Which  I  answer  by 
reading,  e.g.,  Heb.  i,  Mat.  iii.,  i6,  17,  Rom.  iv.. 
Acts  XV.,  and  they  listen  with  utmost  attention. 
But  their  most  interesting  question  is  about  Him 
whom  Jesus  said  was  to  come  (the  Holy  Spirit — 
they  say  Mohammed),  and  it  is  glorious  to  have 
such  an  opportunity  of  testifying  to  the  reality  and 
the  power  of  the  Blessed  Spirit.  This  is  the  lost 
Truth,  the  loss  of  which  gave  Satan  the  oppor- 
tunity of  introducing  both  Mohammedanism  and 
Popery.  Of  course,  you  know  that  in  the  Koran  (of 
which  I  have  a  translation)  is  mentioned  the  Trinity, 
as  Mohammed  supposed  Christians  to  believe,  the 
Father,  Son,  and  Mary  ! 

We  have  seen  during  the  last  year  many  hardened 
and  notorious  sinners  (baptized  though  they  were) 
definitely  brought  to  Christ,  and  openly  professing 
to  be  saved  (one  of  them  the  other  day,  just  after 
his  conversion).  When  we  told  the  Church  Council 
that  he  wanted  to  go  out  as  a  teacher,  the  proposal 
was  met  with  uncontrollable  laughter  as  they  didn't 
know  about  his  conversion ;  and  he  is  now  living 
a  life  w^hich  shews  to  all  the  world,  the  reality 
of  the  change. 

The  Roman  Catholic  version  of  St.  Matthew 
(with  copious  notes  from  the  Fathers)  is  expected  in 
a  day  or  two.     Thank  God  for  this." 

The  work  of  that   vear,  which   had  been   a  most 


23(S  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

eventful  one  in  the  history  of  the  Uganda  Church, 
is  thus  summed  up  in  Pilkington's  annual  letter  for 
1894  :— 

"  Mengo, 

December  12th,  1894. 

Since  my  return  from  Unyoro — where  I  had 
wonderful  opportunities  of  preaching  the  Gospel  to 
many  who  probably  would  not  have  heard  it  other- 
wise, and  of  getting  into  closer  touch  and  sympathy, 
with  the  Waganda — my  work  has  been  chiefly  that  of 
looking  after  the  rapid  extension  of  the  work  into 
the  country,  which  has  been  one  of  the  most  marked 
features  of  the  year  ;  in  fact,  I  have  acted,  I  may 
say,  as  secretary  to  the  Church  Council,  as  far  as 
this  special  work  is  concerned.  I  have  also  done 
language  work,  especially  the  revision  of  the  New 
Testament,  with  Henry  Wright  Duta ;  but  I  pro- 
pose, in  this  letter,  only  to  review  the  work  of 
extension  into  the  country  parts  and  neighbouring 
countries  during  the  past  year. 

At  the  beginning  of  this  year,  there  were  not, 
probably,  more  than  twenty  country  churches  (or 
reading-rooms  or  '  synagogues ' )  ;  there  are  now 
not  less  than  200,  of  which  the  ten  largest  would 
contain  4,500  persons  ;  the  average  capacity  of  all 
would  be,  perhaps,  150.  In  these  there  now 
assemble  every  Sunday  not  less  than  20,000  souls  to 
hear  the  Gospel ;  on  week  days  not  less  than  4,000 
assemble  (these  numbers  are  exclusive  of  the 
capital).  The  first  teachers  paid  by  the  Church 
Council  were  dismissed  in  April ;  there  are  now  131 
of  these  teachers,  occupying  eighty-five  stations,  of 


A    REVIVAL.  237 

whom  just  t\vent\'  are  stationed  outside  Uganda 
proper,  and  may  be  regarded  as  more  or  less  foreign 
Missionaries ;  those  in  Usoga  and  Uvuma  are 
supported  by  the  C.  M.  S.  This  by  no  means 
represents  the  whole  of  the  work  that  is  being  done 
in  the  country ;  there  are  some  places,  notably 
Jungo,  some  fifteen  miles  south  of  Mengo,  where  a 
splendid  work  is  being  done,  and  there  are  probably 
not  less  than  twenty  teachers  at  work  under  Henry's 
able  superintendence,  and  not  one  of  these  teachers, 
nor  Henry  himself,  is  reckoned  in  the  above.  At 
Bu'si  again,  an  island  near  Jungo,  there  are  only 
two  of  these  regular  teachers,  and  yet  there  are 
three  churches  and  about  2,000  people  under  in- 
struction. This  extension  into  the  country  has 
produced,  as  might  have  been  expected,  visible 
fruit  in  the  enormous  increase  in  the  number  of 
those  under  definite  instruction  for  baptism.  At 
this  time  last  year  the  catechumens  numbered  170 ; 
during  the  year  some  800  (I  have  not  the  exact 
number  at  hand)  have  been  baptized,  and  there  are 
now  1,500  catechumens. 

A  blow  has  been  struck  at  the  numerous  and 
absurd  slanders  current  about  baptism  by  the  work 
of  the  Native  deacons,  who  have,  whenever  possible, 
taken  baptism  in  the  country  churches.  While 
writing  this  letter  I  have  received  a  note  from 
Zachariah  Kangao,  who  went  to  his  country  place 
some  days  ago  to  baptize  some  candidates  ;  he  says 
that  a  great  number  collected  to  see  the  baptisms, 
and  went  away  saying,  '  It  was  all  lies  they  told  us 
about    eating    snakes"    tails   and    human    flesh,'  Sec, 


238  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

One  slander  he  mentions,  which  I  think  is  not  onh^ 
interesting  but  most  encouraging — that  baptism 
consisted  ^  in  making  an  incision  in  the  head  and 
rubbing  in  a  powerful  medicine  which  kills  the  old 
heart,  and  then  there  comes  in  its  place  a  new 
religious  heart  that  does  not  lust  for  anything,'  a 
glorious  Heathen  testimony,  I  take  it,  to  the  renew- 
ing power  of  the  Gospel  of  Christ. 

Then,  further,  the  work  is  being  extended  by  the 
fuller  organisation  of  the  country  churches.  It  has 
been  decided  to  elect  six  churchwardens  whenever 
the  number  of  baptized  men  is  not  less  than  ten  ; 
this  organising  has  only  just  been  begun,  but  we 
have  seen  enough  of  resultant  activity  to  lead  us  to 
hope  that  the  effects,  when  the  scheme  is  complete 
and  in  full  working  order,  will  be  most  important. 

To  sum  up,  the  year's  work  has  been  by  far  the 
most  encouraging  that  I  have  been  privileged  to 
witness,  and  I  venture  to  think  that  the  Church 
here  is  only  just  beginning  its  course  of  testimony 
and  victory.  I  anticipate  that  next  year  will  see  an 
enormous  accession.  Is  the  C.M.S.  prepared  for 
the  calls  upon  its  resources  which  the  rapid  increase 
of  the  work  here  might  mean  ?  What  if  we  should 
require  a  hundred  thousand  copies  of  the  New 
Testament  in  the  course  of  the  next  two  or  three 
years,  and  say  a  million  reading-sheets  ?  this  would 
make  about  1,500  loads;  how  are  they  to  be  brought 
here  in  addition  to  everything  else  ? 

Let  me  add  one  word  about  reinforcements.  Is 
it  not  obvious  that  our  present  staff  is  not  nearly 
sufficient  ?     There    are,    thank    God,    several    most 


A    REVIVAL.  239 

able  Natives,  real  soul-winners  too  ;  but  they  are  not 
yet  fully  qualified  to  organise  and  keep  books,  nor  to 
train  people  for  this  work.  Europeans  are  needed 
for  a  few  years  in  considerable  numbers  ;  men  of 
ability  and  education  and  spiritual  power  are 
needed.  Such  then  would,  as  far  as  one  can  fore- 
see, be  the  means  in  God's  hand  of  putting  into 
the  field  here,  say,  each  of  them,  ten  Native 
Missionaries  in  a  few  years,  each  of  the  ten  in 
most  w^ays  equal,  in  many  ways  superior,  to  any 
European  ;  therefore,  I  venture  to  say,  that  one 
European  of  the  kind  required  now  is  worth  ten,  five 
years  hence.  May  the  Lord  of  the  Harvest  open 
the  eyes  of  those  at  home  to  see  it  !  " 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


ON    FURLOUGH, 


In  the  summer  of  1895,  Pilkington  and  Baskerville 
came  home  on  furlough.  They  travelled  by  the 
northern  route  which  passes  through  British  territory, 
and  it  is  by  this  route  the  railwa}^  is  being  con- 
structed, the  commencement  of  which  has  proved 
the  most  certain  indication  of  the  intention  of  the 
British  Government  to  maintain  the  Uganda  Pro- 
tectorate. Mr.  Baskerville  gives  a  graphic  account 
of  the  difficulties  of  the  march  and  the  sufferings 
of  the  porters,  which  will  be  at  an  end  when  the 
railway  is  completed.     He  writes  : — 

"  Though  the  north  road  has  been  proved  to  be 
far  more  healthy  for  Europeans,  yet  it  is  a  far  more 
terrible  journey  for  the  native  porters.  There  are 
the  waterless  districts  near  the  coast,  and  the  long 
stretch  of  foodless  country,  stretching  from  Kikuyu 
to  Mumia's  in  Kavirondo,  a  three  wrecks'  journey, 
for  which  food  has  to  be  carried  in  addition  to  the 
ordinary  load.  This  foodless  district  is  very  high 
ground,  rising  over  the  Mau  escarpment  to  8,500 
feet,  and  is  consequently  very  cold,  and  the  porters 
suffer  much.  Then,  too,  man-eating  lions  seldom 
leave  any  caravans  alone,  and  highwaymen  are 
always  on  the  look-out  for  stragglers. 

g40 


ON   FURLOUGH.  241 

Let  me  recall  a  few  facts  connected  with  our 
home  journey  last  summer.  We  laid  in  our  food 
supplies  in  Busoga  and  distributed  them  between  all 
members  of  the  caravan.  The  ordinary  African 
does  not  look  far  ahead,  and  it  is  not  an  uncommon 
thing  for  a  man  to  throw  away  a  large  portion  ot  his 
rations,  keeping  just  enough  for  his  immediate  need, 
or  some  will  eat  up  three  weeks'  food  in  one,  and 
then  tell  you  they  are  starving.  The  Government 
provide  all  their  porters  with  a  blanket  and  water- 
proof sheet  for  crossing  the  Mau  escarpment ;  the 
men  constantly  sell  these  to  natives  of  Kavirondo, 
and  then  die  of  cold.  One  day  we  had  just  come 
to  a  river,  when  we  saw  on  the  opposite  bank  an 
up-country  caravan  approaching.  We  waited  and 
watched  it  go  by.  Many  of  the  men  looked  greatly 
emaciated,  some  mere  skeletons.  Some  were  offer- 
ing things  in  sale  for  flour.  We  had  not  gone  more 
than  a  mile  when  I  noticed  a  man  by  the  side  of  the 
path.  He  had  no  earthly  belongings  except  a  rag  of 
cloth  round  his  loins.  We  asked  him  who  he  was. 
He  said  he  had  been  carrying  the  head  man's  tent, 
but  that  morning  could  not  manage  it,  so  his  load 
had  been  given  to  another,  and  he  had  been  left. 
That  night  he  would  have  been  eaten  by  hyenas. 
He  had  dysentery  and  a  bad  cough.  We  gave  him 
brandy  and  milk,  and  helped  him  along  that  day, 
feeding  him  at  night  in  camp  with  arrowroot.  The 
next  day  he  started  walking,  but  arrangements  had 
to  be  made  to  carry  him.  By  no  force  of  argument 
could  we  persuade  our  Swahili  headman  to  leave 
behind  a  load  of  drums  he  was  takintr  down  to  a 


242  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

friend.  We  would  give  him  double  the  price.  No, 
his  friend  wanted  the  drums,  not  the  money  ;  for- 
tunately our  provision  boxes  were  getting  light,  and 
by  putting  two  or  three  loads  together  w^e  managed 
to  get  two  bearers.  The  next  day  we  were  detained 
by  two  more  sick  men.  We  had  passed  many 
corpses  of  men  and  donkeys,  some  only  recently 
dead.  When  we  found  these  two  men  by  an  old 
hut  in  a  camping  place  in  a  very  wild  spot  just  by  a 
marsh,  one  had  been  there  nine  days  without  food. 
He  had  bad  feet,  an  old  sore  had  become  poisoned 
by  wading  through  marshes.  He  had  been  under 
the  care  of  a  headman,  who  had  thought  it  less 
trouble  to  leave  him,  and  probably  reported  him 
dead.  We  learned  the  headman's  name  and  re- 
ported the  matter  at  Kikuyu,  and  I  trust  our  friend 
will  get  a  warm  punishment.  Thus  abandoned, 
he  was  found  by  another  caravan,  and  robbed  by 
them  of  all  he  had,  food,  cloth,  and  water  calabash. 
A  few  days  before  we  found  him,  he  had  been  joined 
by  another,  and  the  night  before  a  third  man  had 
crept  in  to  die,  and  there  we  saw  his  corpse  lying 
close  by.  Strange  to  say,  our  friend  seemed  quite 
cheerful,  and  only  asked  for  a  fire  and  some  water. 
We  made  a  fire  and  drew  water  for  him,  and  fed 
him  and  his  companion  with  some  cooked  food  we 
had  with  us.  He  said,  '  If  when  you  get  to  the 
Ravine  (a  Government  Station,  two  days'  march 
away),  you  tell  the  white  man  to  send  for  me,  he 
will  find  me  still  alive.'  Of  course  we  could  not 
leave  him  thus,  and  his  companion  was  evidently 
dying.     We  managed  to  carry  them  on,  one  on  a 


ON    FURLOUGH.  243 

small  donkey  we  had  ;  and  by  giving  some  light 
loads  to  our  boys,  we  set  free  two  men  to  carry  the 
other.  Had  we  met  more  sick  men,  we  could  not 
have  carried  them  on,  except  by  leaving  behind 
food,  or  tents,  or  clothing,  and  thereby  endangering 
the  lives  of  ourselves  and  our  own  men. 

The  horrors  of  the  road  for  these  poor  porters 
can  only  be  understood  by  one  who  has  travelled  on 
it.  All  this  the  railway  will  change,  and  also  it 
cannot  fail  to  check  what  remains,  and  that  is  a 
good  deal,  of  the  slave-trade." 

It  may  be  added  that  the  railway,  so  far  as  it  is  at 
present  completed,  as  far  as  Kibwezi,  is  marked  on 
our  map  of  Eastern  Central  Africa,  as  well  as  the 
survey  up  to  the  Lake. 

On  arriving  at  the  coast,  the  missionaries  were 
most  hospitably  received  bv  the  Rev.  W.  E.  and 
Mrs.  Taylor. 

Mr.  Taylor's  reminiscences  of  their  visit  furnish  an 
interesting  review  of  this  period.  He  writes  : — 
''  The  arrival  of  Baskerville  and  '  Pilks,'  as  he  was 
familiarly  called  by  his  missionary  comrades,  caused 
quite  a  stir  among  us,  his  friends  at  the  coast,  when 
in  August,  1895,  they  came  to  Frere  Town,  with 
their  Waganda  porters  and  boys.  We  were  very 
curious  to  see  men  whose  doings  and  labour  had 
been  so  wonderfully  honoured  of  God  in  Uganda. 
We  found  them  very  modest  and  retiring,  which 
natural  trait  was  further  heightened  by  the  shyness 
they  felt  to  appear  before  the  lady  workers  at  Frere 
Town  in  their  rough,  up-country  rig,  now  very  much 
the  rougher  for  an  800  miles  journey  on  foot,  without 


244  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

the  possibility  of  a  renewal  of  their  travelling  kit 
through  such  deserts  as  those  they  had  traversed. 
However,  I  think  a  deposit  of  European  clothes,  &c., 
thatw^as  awaiting  Mr.  Baskerville  at  the  Accountant's 
Office,  was  divided  between  them,  and  they  forth- 
with became  more  presentable  ;  and  so  in  Pilkington's 
case  also,  the  way-worn  garments  and  '  clouted 
shoon  '  were  soon  discarded  for  a  more  conventional, 
if  not  a  ver}'  well-fitting,  garb,  although  he  need  not 
have  minded,  for  he  looked  well  in  anything.  One 
odd  little  matter  as  to  his  person  struck  me — a  thick 
pile  of  short  hair  that  came  well  down  on  the  side  of 
the  neck.  It  struck  me  that  this  formed  a  covering 
to  the  neck  where  it  otherwise  would  have  been 
naked  to  the  bitter  rays  of  the  oblique  morning  and 
evening  sun,  which  are  much  more  dangerous,  be- 
cause more  insidious,  to  the  European  than  are  the 
vertical  ones.  This  may  in  part  account  for  what  I 
thought  an  uncommon  tolerance  of  glare,  and,  there- 
fore, I  think  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  mention  it. 
Also  he  told  me,  in  regard  to  his  precautions  against 
sunstroke  in  itineration  and  travel,  that  before  going 
out  he  would  give  his  headgear — a  pith  topee — a  good 
soak  in  water,  and  also  place  a  fresh  banana  leaf 
within  the  helmet,  further  to  protect  his  head,  and 
then  he  was  ready  for  anything,  and  would  suffer  no 
inconvenience  in  this  way  for  as  long  a  time  as  the 
headgear  retained  its  dampness,  when,  if  possible,  he 
would  repeat  the  process. 

Very  soon  after  his  arrival,  we  had  a  walk 
through  Frere  Town — he  was  staying  with  us  in  the 
Bishop's  House,  which  Bishop  Tucker  had  loaned  to 


ON    FURLOUGH.  245 

us,  to  afford  us  a  change  from  Mombasa,  and 
Baskerville  was  resident  in  another,  and  boarded 
with  Mr.  Binns — and  one  of  the  first  things  that 
struck  one,  was  the  way  he  could  enjo}-  a  walk  with 
his  bhstered  feet  because  of  the  talk  I  We  found  in 
the  languages,  in  fact,  a  most  absorbing  topic.  We 
had  several  such  walks,  which  were  to  me  full  of 
instruction,  as  we  compared  notes  concerning  our 
respective  language  studies,  and  their  bearing  on 
our  work. 

He  told  me  practically  what  he  repeated  in  a 
letter  which  I  received  only  shortly  before  his  death, 
of  his  great  indebtedness  to  Sweet's  '  Primer  of 
Phonetics,'  which  I  was  privileged  to  have  recom- 
mended Millar  to  take  out  to  him  in  1892.  He  said 
that  that  book  had  been  the  means  of  making  things 
in  the  language  clear  as  daylight  to  him,  where  all 
before  had  been  like  groping  in  the  dark.  He 
attributed  to  this  book  his  discovery  and  fixing  the 
rationale  of  the  most  important  phonetic  feature  of 
the  Uganda  tongue  —  the  longs  and  shorts  in 
consonants  and  vowels.  He  also  traced  to  my  little 
book  on  the  Proverbs  of  the  East  Africans  ('  African 
Aphorisms,  or  Saws  from  Swahili  Land,'  S.P.C.K.) 
his  beginning  the  study  and  collection  of  the  Uganda 
proverbs,  which  he  turned  to  such  good  account  in 
his  Tractate  on  Roman  Catholicism  and  Mohamme- 
danism, and  in  his  Evangelistic  and  Pastoral  work  in 
Uganda.  He  said  justly,  that  without  the  study  of 
the  National  Proverbs,  one  could  never  properly 
know  the  workings  of  the  African  mind.  In  almost 
all   these   things   we    had  come  by  different  ways, 


246  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

to  the  same,  or  nearly  the  same,  general  conclu- 
sions. He  was  good  enough  to  be  present 
at  the  weekly  Swahili  lectures  I  was  giving  at  that 
time  to  the  candidates  for  the  Language  Examina- 
tions, and  would  give  excellent  illustrations  of  the 
matter  in  hand  from  his  own  experience  in  the 
language  of  Uganda;  and  I  used  to  call  upon  him 
for  a  demonstration  of  various  African  sounds, 
compared  with  those  sounds  as  uttered  in  Irish 
brogue,  with  which  he  was  conversant.  He  was 
surprised  at  the  similarity  thus  emphasized. 

Pilkington  was  no  half-an-half  Protestant,  but 
withal  there  was  no  personal  bitterness  imported 
into  his  uncompromising  statement  of  opinion  in 
the  Romish  controversy  which  he  had  had  to  wage 
while  in  Uganda."  Reference  is  then  made  by 
Mr.  Taylor  to  some  special  lines  of  argument  which 
were  afterwards  developed  by  Pilkington  with  great 
effect  in  the  little  book  "anonya  alaba,"  which 
will  be  referred  to  later  on.  There  is  little  doubt 
that  his  knowledge  of  Ireland  and  the  Irish  gave 
him  a  keen  insight  into  the  difficulties  of  Roman 
Catholics,  whilst  at  the  same  time  he  knew  how  to 
deal  with  such  questions  in  a  way  calculated 
to  attract,  rather  than  to  repel  those  with 
whom  he  came  in  contact.  Mr.  Taylor  con- 
tinues :  —  "  He  would  give  one  in  private,  as 
also  he  and  Baskerville  did  in  a  meeting  con- 
vened for  the  purpose,  the  stirring  account  ot 
God's  dealings  with  the  Uganda  Mission  ;  which, 
in  leading  the  Missionaries  and  Teachers  to  just 
views  of  the   absolute  necessity  for  personal  con- 


ON    FURLOUGH.  247 

secration  and  the  direct  and  supreme  work  of  the 
Spirit  of  God,  so  happily  brought  about  the 
vivification  of  the  Church  in  Uganda.  He  had 
conceived  a  great  respect — and  surely  he  was  a 
judge,  as  capable  as  he  was  conscientious — of  the 
abilities  and  graces  of  the  Uganda  converts,  and 
especially  of  those  who  had  become  teachers,  and 
he  would  relate  anecdotes  in  support  of  his  opinion, 
some  of  which  I  took  notes  of  as  he  told  them. 
A  preacher  at  Mengo  said  in  his  sermon,  that  to 
form  a  judgment  of  a  man's  deserts,  mart's  way  is  to 
put  his  evil  deeds  into  one  scale,  and  his  virtues  and 
religious  observances  into  the  other ;  whereas  God's 
way,  in  such  a  case,  would  be  to  put  both  these  into 
the  debit  scale.  Another  similar  pulpit  utterance, 
was  a  determination  the  preacher  made  between  the 
spheres  of  faith  and  works,  or  rather  of  inward 
holiness  and  heart  religion  on  the  one  hand,  and 
outward  observances  on  the  other.  Said  the 
preacher  :  '  Religion  may  be  compared  to  a  banana.* 
The  real  heart  religion  is  the  juicy  pulp,  the  forms 
and  ceremonies  are  the  skin.  While  the  two  are 
undivided,  the  banana  keeps  good  till  it  is  used,  and 
so  it  is  with  religion.  Separate  the  forms  from  the 
spirit,  and  the  one  will  be  of  no  more  value  than 
the  banana  husk,  while  the  latter  will  speedily 
decay  and  corrupt  apart  from  the  outward  ex- 
pression.' Observances,  the  preacher  pointed  out, 
had  their  value  in  protecting  the  holy  germ  within, 
and  fostering  the  feelings  of  the  heart.  This  was 
called  forth  by  the  arising  of  a  certain  spirit  of  in- 
subordination to  the  ordinances  of  the  Church,  and 

*  The  banana  is  the  national  food  of  the  peojTle  of  Uganda, 


248  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA 

had  its  effect.  What  European  teacher,  Pilkington 
asked,  could  have  used  such  a  simile  ?  He  was 
always  insisting  on  the  necessity  to  true  progress 
of  the  African  for  Africa.  Another  wise  saw  was : 
,  No  poisoner  gives  poison  neat,  if  he  would  remain 
undiscovered.  The  devil  knows  that.'  Again : 
'  The  devil  has  two  devices ;  he  will  do  one  of  two 
things — first  he  will  try  and  deprive  you  of  the  food ; 
and  if  he  cannot  deprive  you  of  it,  he  will  corrupt 
it.'  These  were  spoken  by  the  native  preacher  in 
reference  to  the  Romish  teaching,  which  was  then, 
and  is  now,  combating  the  work  of  our  Missionaries 
so  keenly  and  so  persistently.  One  man  (I  think 
Samwili),  in  a  praj^er  for  the  blessing  of  God  on  the 
Evangelists,  used  an  expression  which  had  greatly 
struck  our  friend  :  *  We  have  the  line,  Thou  hast 
the  hook  ! '  When  the  Mohammedans  of  Mombasa 
had  heard  him  proclaim  the  conversion  of  three 
known  Mohammedans  in  Uganda,  w^hich  I  asked 
him  to  attest  at  our  open-air  meetings  in  Mombasa, 
— for  the  reason  that  the  Mohammedans  at  the 
coast  had  said  that  the  conversion  of  a  Moslem  was 
a  simple  impossibility, — they  characteristically  ex- 
plained it  away  by  saying,  *  Oh,  the  Waganda  were 
written  down  to  the  English  from  eternity ! '  — 
by  the  English  meaning  '  Christians.'" 

On  reaching  England,  at  the  end  of  October, 
1895,  Pilkington  stayed  for  a  few  days  with  Mr. 
Bushell,  at  Harrow,  before  visiting  his  Irish  home. 

He  made  his  first  appearance  at  the  Annual 
Meeting  of  the  Gleaner's  Union,  on  November  ist, 
and  he  created  a  great   impression   as   he   told   of 


ON    FURLOUGH.  249 

the  change  which  had  come  over  the  lives  of  many 
of  the  Uganda  converts,  not  to  speak  of  the 
Missionaries,  as  the  result  of  the  great  revival  at 
the  out-pouring  of  God's  Spirit.  At  the  same 
meeting  he  made  an  earnest  appeal  for  men  to 
devote  themselves  to  literary  work  in  the  Mission 
Field. 

But  he  had  not  returned  home  in  order  to  go  from 
place  to  place,  seeking  to  rouse  the  home  Church  to 
her  responsibilities  to  the  unevangelised  world,  as  in 
the  case  of  most  Missionaries.  His  mission  was  a 
very  definite  one— to  see  through  the  Press  the  revised 
Luganda  New  Testament,  to  complete  the  trans- 
lation of  the  Old  Testament,  and  thus  to  furnish 
for  the  Uganda  Church,  on  his  return,  a  completed 
Bible  in  one  volume.  But,  if  he  did  not  often 
appear  on  the  public  platform,  when  he  did  speak 
an  impression  was  made  in  many  cases  which  will 
never  be  effaced.  In  no  case  was  this  more  remark- 
able than  in  his  visits  to  the  Universities  of  Oxford 
and  Cambridge.  At  Oxford  he  spoke  at  Canon 
Christopher's  Annual  C. M.S.  breakfast— that  remark- 
able annual  gathering,  when  so  many  distinguished 
graduates  of  the  University,  as  well  as  under- 
graduates, gather  year  by  year  to  meet  some 
Missionary  from  abroad.  On  this  occasion  the 
gathering  was  a  particularly  representative  one. 
Pilkington's  review  of  the  history  of  the  Uganda 
Church  was  unusually  comprehensive,  and  his 
illustrations  most  interesting,  and,  in  conclusion, 
he  made  the  follovving  stirring  appeal  to  Oxford 
men  : — 


250  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

"Surely  there  must  be  many,"  he  said,  "who 
longed  for  opportunity  to  show  their  devotion  to 
Christ  in  some  more  adequate  way.  There  were 
thousands  and  thousands  of  miles  in  the  Soudan 
waiting  for  self-sacrifice,  and  let  them  not  suppose 
the  Soudan  would  be  won  for  Christ  without 
sacrifice.  Surely  it  would  come  from  somewhere, 
and  why  not  from  Oxford  ?  They  could  not  choose 
for  themselves  the  sacrifice — that  would  be  no  real 
sacrifice — but  when  God  called  them,  when  God 
opened  the  way,  when  God  gave  them  the  privilege, 
surely  they  would  not  shrink  from  it.  Might  he 
end  by  giving  them  a  message  from  a  Mohammedan 
in  Uganda  ?  He  was  speaking  to  him  about  the 
riches  of  Christ,  and  he  replied,  '  Do  you  think  we 
should  ever  leave  this  religion  of  ours  which  has 
cost  us  so  much  suffering  ? '  He  loved  his  religion 
because  it  cost  him  so  much,  and  he  believed  it  was 
true  that  most  things  w^ere  worth  to  them  what  they 
had  cost  them.  If  God  gave  them  the  opportunity, 
and  opened  the  way  and  called  them  to  it,  he 
begged  of  them  not  to  shrink.  He  believed  they 
could  do  a  work  in  Uganda,  such  as  could  be  done 
in  no  other  part  of  the  world,  because  in  no  other 
part  of  the  world  was  there  material  lying  waiting 
as  in  Uganda.  Here  was  the  opportunity.  He 
challenged  them  to  accept  it." 

Among  the  senior  members  of  the  University 
present  at  that  gathering  was  Sir  Henry  Acland, 
late  Regius  Professor  of  Medicine,  and  he  rose  to 
express  the  thanks  of  the  audience  to  Mr.  Pilkington, 
and,  in  the  course  of  his  speech,  he  said  ; — 


ON    FURLOUGH.  251 

"  They  saw  before  them  a  man  of  strength,  a  man 
of  heart,  a  man  of  education,  who  went  forth  amon^^ 
the  milhons  of  their  fellow  creatures  to  teach  every- 
thing that  mankind  required  to  know  for  their 
progress,  their  well-being,  their  happiness  here  and 
hereafter.  What  more  was  to  be  said  ?  They  were 
aware  that  the  study  of  physical  science  had,  within 
the  last  half-century,  become  an  essential  part  of 
the  curriculum  of  the  University  of  Oxford.  He 
wondered  w^hether  the  time  would  not  shortly  come 
when  their  able,  thoughtful,  excellent  undergraduates, 
who  studied  in  that  department  of  human  know- 
ledge, would  qualify  themselves  especially  to  go  as 
highly  accomplished,  medical  advisers  to  assist 
Missionary  work  throughout  the  world — (hear,  hear). 
He  spoke  from  knowledge  of  some  of  their  young 
scientific  men  that  he  believed,  if  that  idea  was  put 
into  their  minds,  they  would  be  proud  and  anxious, 
on  behalf  of  God's  work,  on  behalf  of  their  Queen, 
to  go  and  faithfully  join  under  the  instructions  and 
guidance  of  such  a  man  of  vigour  and  goodness 
and  sympathy  for  his  fellow  creatures  as  they  had 
heard  address  them  that  morning — (applause).  He 
would  only  presume  to  add  one  word.  Was  it  not 
a  blessed  thing  to  hear  so  much  that  was  so  deeply, 
scientifically,  and  intellectually  interesting  as  was 
Mr.  Pilkington's  account  of  the  people  of  Uganda, 
without  one  single  word  of  politics  or  of  the  quarrels 
and  disputes  of  party  men  all  over  the  world  ?  They 
had  set  before  them  the  high  object  of  elevating 
these  poor  people,  so  that  they  might  be  e\en 
teachers  in  England," 


252  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

But,  perhaps,  even  more  interesting  than  this 
meeting  at  Oxford,  was  the  breakfast  held  in  the 
hall  of  his  own  College,  Pembroke  College,  Cam- 
bridge, at  the  invitation  of  the  Master.  It  was  an 
unique  occasion,  and  Dr.  Searle's  account  of  this 
gathering,  given  in  the  course  of  a  chapel  sermon 
after  Pilkington's  death,  is  a  valuable  record  of  that 
day.     He  says  : — 

*'  His  appearance  in  our  hall  about  two  years  ago 
made  a  great  impression.  The  majority  at  the 
breakfast  in  hall  at  that  time  had  never  met  him,  or 
heard  him  speak.  One  was  the  present  Bishop  of 
Rochester,  Dr.  Talbot,  who  kindly  wrote  to  me  to 
condole  with  me  on  the  loss  of  my  friend,  and 
adds :  '  I  see  him  standing  at  your  high  table  that 
morning,  and  his  manners  and  words  made  a  great 
impression  on  me,  as  strong  as  any  that  I  have 
received  for  some  years.'  I  can  recollect  how 
intently  the  Bishop  followed  him,  and  took  notes  of 
his  address. 

Others  were  greatly  impressed.  The  Master  of 
Trinity  referred  to  his  choice  language  and  exquisite 
delivery,  and  remarked,  though  ignorant  of  his 
classical  distinction,  '  it  is  like  the  address  of  a 
scholar.' 

All  this  can  be  remembered,  and  serves  to  show 
how  precious  all  natural  gifts  can  become  when 
consecrated  to  God.  His  fine  person,  his  rich  voice, 
his  linguistic  ability,  his  classical  knowledge,  all  told. 
But  there  was  something  more;  he  kept  back 
nothing  of  the  Gospel,  and  as  he  spoke  of  the 
deepest  things  with  a  holy  reverence,  I   know  our 


ON    FURLOUGH.  15^ 

hearts  burnt  within  us,  and  we  felt  that  we  had  a 
prophet  amongst  us,  a  man  young,  indeed,  in  years, 
and  though  not  a  doctor  of  theology,  who  could, 
notwithstanding,  lead  us  to  a  high  wisdom  and 
instruct  us  in  the  way  of  God  more  perfectly. 

So  do  teachers  learn  from  their  pupils,  and  must 
not  disdain  to  confess  it." 

Previous  to  these  meetings,  Pilkington  was  present 
at  the  historic  Conference  of  the  Student  Volunteer 
Missionary  Union,  at  Liverpool,  in  i8g6.  Here  there 
were  717  student  delegates  from  the  Colleges  of  the 
world,  yy  being  foreign  delegates  including  repre- 
sentatives of  ig  foreign  countries,  and  at  this 
conference  the  motto  *  The  Evangelisation  of  the 
world  in  this  generation,'  was  deliberately  chosen 
as  the  watchword  of  the  S.V.M.U. 

We  have  seen  something  of  the  work  of  Christian 
men  at  Cambridge  during  the  time  that  Pilkington 
was  an  undergraduate,  and  at  the  same  time  a 
similar  work  was  being  carried  on  at  Oxford,  though 
amid  greater  difficulties,  and  even  then  there  had 
been  organised  year  by  year  for  a  considerable  time, 
an  annual  Conference  of  members  of  the  Oxford  and 
Cambridge  Christian  Unions  for  their  mutual  help 
and  encouragement. 

Meantime,  owing  to  the  visit  of  the  "Cambridge 
Seven,"  already  mentioned,  under  the  leadership  of 
C.  T.  Studd  and  Stanley  Smith,  a  revival  was 
taking  place  in  Edinburgh  University,  fanned  to  a 
flame  by  the  work  of  Professor  Henry  Drummond 
and  by  other  Christian  Professors. 

It  was  some  years  later,  however,  that  the  idea 


254  PTLKIXGTOX    OF    UGANDA. 

borrowed  from  the  Student  Volunteer  Missionary 
Union  of  America,  laid  hold  on  British  students  and 
resulted  in  the  formation  of  the  Student  Volunteer 
Missionary  Union,  which,  with  its  sister  organisa- 
tion, the  British  College  Christian  Union,  has 
drawn  together  students  from  all  the  chief 
Universities  and  Colleges  of  Great  Britain  and 
Ireland,  and  through  the  World's  Students' 
Christian  Federation,  is  uniting  in  one  great  bond 
of  brotherly  Christian  sympathy,  the  National 
Students'  Christian  organisations  of  Europe,  Asia, 
Africa,  America,  Australia  and  Japan. 

The  Liverpool  Conference  was  the  first  outward 
demonstration  to  the  churches  of  this  country  of  the 
wide-reaching  importance  of  this  movement,  though 
even  that  was  only  an  imperfect  forecast  of  the 
development  which  has  taken  place  since  that  time. 
This  was  the  first  time  that  Pilkington  had  been 
brought  face  to  face  with  the  work  of  the  Student 
\'olunteer  Missionary-  Union,  and  this  Conference 
was  an  inspiration  to  him,  whilst  his  presence  was 
an  inspiration  to  the  Conference. 

The  evangelisation  of  the  world  in  this  generation 
was  a  possibility  which  he  had  already  contemplated, 
and  he  threw  his  heart  and  soul  into  the  working  out 
of  this  great  ideal,  contending  that  if  only  the  natives 
of  Uganda  were  used  as  they  might  be,  Africa  at 
least  might  speedily  be  evangelised. 

No  one,  however,  must  suppose  that  Pilkington 
was  a  mere  theorist ;  he  did  not  encourage  others  to 
high  aims  and  expectations  without  giving  them 
the  most  practical  suggestions  as  to  the  methods  of 


ox    FURLOUGH.  255 

work  to  be  adopted,  and  the  qualifications  needed 
for  it. 

His  remarks  on  this  subject  at  the  Liverpool 
Conference  were  of  so  great  value  that  we  may  repro- 
duce the  main  part  of  his  address. 

He  said : — 

"  I  wish  to  speak  to  you  first  of  all  about  the 
methods  of  directly  evangelistic  work,  and  secondly, 
about  the  main  qualifications  needful  for  it. 

I.  Methods: — It  is  most  needful  to  seek  to 
understand  the  ignorance  of  those  with  whom  you 
have  to  deal.  If  you  speak  to  an  African  of  God,  he 
does  not  know  what  you  mean,  and  your  words 
convey  no  meaning  to  him.  If  you  would  win  him, 
you  must  give  him  the  testimony  of  a  Christian  life. 
These  people  must  see  that  the  Gospel  will  meet 
their  needs  ;  they  must  be  made  to  realize  that  it  is 
a  power  in  your  life,  and  can  be  in  theirs.  They 
must  know  by  your  life  that  your  profession  is  a  true 
one.  See  that  your  words  of  preaching  come 
naturally  and  freely.  Never  speak  to  a  soul  to  salve 
your  own  conscience,  but  only  when  impelled  by  the 
Holy  Ghost. 

To  gain  the  heathen  we  must  live  with  them. 
Get  close  to  the  hearts  you  would  ivin  for  Christ.  Let 
your  heart  be  entwined  with  their  hearts ;  let  no 
barrier  of  big  houses,  or  clothes,  or  custom  come 
between  you  and  the  souls  you  would  reach.  See 
that  you  suffer  no  barriers  of  national  prejudice  to 
mar  your  work,  nor  any  pride  or  daintiness.  God 
can  take  all  these  things  away  from  us.  Let  us 
become  all  things  to  all  men  ;    become,  not  pretend 


256  PILKINGTON   OF^  UGANDA. 

to  be.  We  need  not  necessarily  dress  like  the 
natives,  nor  make  any  external  change.  It  is  our 
hearts  that  must  be  one  with  the  hearts  of  those 
we  seek.  We  must  love  and  sympathise  with  them, 
ever  remembering  that  each  soul  may  be  made  like 
the  Son  of  God. 

Two  practical  hints  as  to  method.  In  Uganda, 
we  have  found  after-meetings  of  great  service  and 
very  successful.  It  is  just  the  outcome  of  the 
principle,  that  there  is  no  salvation  save  by  the 
dealing  of  the  soul  with  God.  We  point  the  people 
to  God,  and  say,  '  We  cannot  save  you  ;  God  can 
and  will.' 

The  power  to  read  the  Bible  is  the  key  to  the 
Kingdom  of  God.  With  the  exception  of  one  case, 
I  have  never  known  anyone  profess  Christ  who 
could  not  read. 

2.  Qualifications.  There  are  four  things  essential 
for  the  work  of  evangelisation. 

1.  Physical  qualifications. 

2.  A  knowledge  of  the  language. 

3.  Love  and  Sympathy. 

4.  The  Power  of  the  Holy  Ghost. 

The  first  two  are,  of  course,  possessed  by  natives 
in  far  greater  measure  than  by  ourselves  ;  the  third 
we  share  with  them  ;  the  fourth  is  free  to  all. 

If  this  be  so,  then  the  natives  are  more  qualified 
to  evangelise  than  we  are.  The  evangelisation  of 
Africa  must  be  carried  out  by  Africans,  and  it  will  be 
accomplished  when  we  have  a  hundred  native 
evangelists  to  every  European  missionary. 

Physical  Qualifications.     I  was  speaking  once  to  a 


ON    FURLOUGH.  257 

man  of  the  world,  and  he  said  he  beheved  that 
success  or  failure  depended  on  this,  that  some  men 
do,  and  some  do  not,  realize  the  importance  of 
physical  care  in  the  matter  of  food  and  sleep.  The 
best  training  for  a  missionary  is  to  be  able  to  live  on 
the  simplest  food,  and  never  to  indulge  in  sleep.  It 
is  a  most  important  thing  that  a  man  should  have 
perfect  control  over  these  things.  It  was  in  the 
matter  of  food  that  the  Israelites  were  first  tempted, 
and  in  the  matter  of  sleep  that  the  disciples  failed 
in  th2  hour  of  their  Lord's  need. 

Knowledge  of  the  Language.  Learn  the  native 
language  till  you  can  read  the  hearts  of  the  people 
and  get  to  understand  their  thoughts.  Do  not  be 
content  to  speak  as  a  European,  but  aim  at 
perfection,  for  on  this  may  depend  immortal  souls. 
Do  not  let  English  come  between  you  and  the 
people.  Do  not  study  the  language  before  you  go 
out,  but  study  the  sounds  of  spoken  language — that 
is,  phonetics.  Study  not  only  the  Bible  and  the 
hearts  of  men,  but  also  their  throats.  Now  is  the 
time  to  do  it.  Get  Sweet's  Primer  of  Phonetics, 
which  will  teach  you  to  combine  sounds  and  get 
control  of  your  vocal  organs.  When  at  length  you 
are  learning  the  language,  seek  to  associate  sounds 
with  objects.  Let  each  object  bring  some  native 
sound  ringing  in  your  ears,  so  that  the  sound  brings 
the  object  before  your  eyes. 

Love  and  Sympathy.     Now  and  here  is  the  time 
and  place  for  preparation  in  these  essentials.     Take 
every  opportunity  of  exercising  love  and  sympathy 
towards  all  whom  you  meet, 
s 


258  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

The  Pouer  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  I  would  urge  every 
man  to  accept  the  power  of  the  Holy  Ghost  to 
change  his  life  now.  It  is  only  by  the  fulness  of  the 
Holy  Spirit  in  our  own  hearts  that  we  can  really 
get  at  the  hearts  of  the  people.  Let  us  each  one 
maintain  by  any  means,  and  by  all  means,  and  at  all 
times,  the  fulness  of  the  Holy  Ghost  in  our  lives." 

Considering  the  success  which  Pilkington  attained 
not  only  in  his  Bible  translation,  but  in  his  knoW' 
ledge  of  the  colloquial,  his  hints  on  the  methods  of 
acquiring  a  foreign  tongue  may  well  be  laid  to  heart 
by  those  who  would  follow  in  his  steps. 

He  frequently  stated  that,  in  his  opinion,  it  was 
not  so  much  an  essential  to  be  possessed  of  rare 
abilities,  as  it  was  to  follow  definite  methods  of  study, 
such  as  those  mentioned  in  his  Liverpool  address. 

In  a  letter  to  his  sister  at  the  time  she  was 
working  as  a  Missionary  in  India,  he  writes : 

"...  I  think  you  will  find  that  the  real  and 
most  stringent  test  of  knowledge  of  a  language  is, 
whether  you  can  understand  the  natives  speaking 
among  one  another. 

I  believe  we  must  learn  like  children,  through 
the  ear,  not  by  books  much  ;  rather  the  office  of 
books  is  to  enable  us  to  make  up  and  understand 
when  we  hear  spoken  words  and  sentences,  which 
only  constant  hearing  (whether  by  repetition  to  our- 
selves aloud,  or  by  hearing  others  say  them)  will 
teach  us  to  know  in  that  instinctive  way  which  is 
necessary  to  real  speaking  or  understanding.  To 
know  thoroughly  by  book  is  an  utterly  different 
thing  from  knowing  by  ear." 


ON    FURLOUGH.  259 

But  it  is  not  all  vvlio  are  ready  to  adopt  the 
methods  which  he  adopted.  He  never  cared  what 
anyone  thought  of  him,  and  did  not  mind  how 
ludicrous  he  seemed  to  others,  as  he  copied  even  the 
grimaces  of  the  natives,  if  only  he  could  achieve  his 
object  of  speaking  like  a  native.  Nor  was  he  dis- 
appointed, for  we  are  told  that  the  natives  spoke  of 
him  as  "a  true  Muganda." 

But  he  was  not  satisfied  with  a  mere  knowledge 
of  the  sounds  of  the  language,  and  the  ability  to 
produce  them.  If  he  was  to  be  understood,  he  felt 
that  he  must  master  the  native  idiom,  and  be  able 
to  use  their  similes  instead  of  European  ones,  which 
would  be  utterly  unintelligible  to  the  African  mind. 

It  is  strange  how  often  this  is  forgotten  by  those 
who  go  to  work  in  foreign  c  ountries,  and  it  is  largely 
owing  to  this,  that  so  much  of  the  knowledge  gained, 
even  in  mission  schools,  is  superficial,  because  the 
books  used  in  teachmg  have  been  based,  not  on  the 
customs  or  even  the  objects  seen  in  the  country,  but 
upon  things  which  the  children  have  had  no  oppor- 
tunity of  understanding,  owing  to  the  land  in  which 
they  live. 

Pilkington  therefore  devoted  himself  to  the  study 
of  the  proverbs  and  similes  of  Luganda,  and  he 
describes  his  plan  in  a  letter  to  his  mother  from 
Uganda,  dated  April  5th,  1895. 

'*  I  am  learning  every  day,  and  am  d^ilv  realizing 
my  ignorance  more.  It  is  a  beautiful  language,  and 
most  rich  and  expressive,  but  with  very  little  in 
common  with  English  ;  it  is  necessary  to  know  their 
similes  and  metaphors  as  well  as  the  mere  words  ; 


260  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

what  European  would  talk  of  having  ears  as  '  sharp 
as  an  elephant's,'  or  being  as  thin  (not  as  a  poker), 
but  '  as  a  blade  of  grass  '  ;  or  of  being  afraid  (not  of 
your  shadow),  but  'of  the  breaking  of  a  blade  of 
grass,'  etc.,  etc.  These  are  the  things  that  make 
one  intelligible  and  interesting  to  these  people,  but 
to  get  to  use  them  naturally,  without  effort,  is 
extremely  difficult.  Then  their  proverbs  !  Half  of 
our  English  ideas  are  only  translatable  by  means  of 
proverbs  into  Luganda — e.g.,  the  words  '  impartial 
or  partial,'  '  interested  or  disinterested,'  would  have 
to  be  turned  by  using  the  proverb,  '  In  matters  that 
concern  the  forest,  is  the  monkey  judge  ?  '  or  to 
translate  the  expression,  '  he's  only  got  himself  to 
thank,  your  own  fault,  etc.,'  you  must  use  a  proverb 
about  sores,  that  come  from  self-inflicted  cuttings 
in  the  flesh  for  ornamentation  ;  and  nothing  else 
would  be  really  intelligible  to  these  people  in  that 
context,  except  that  particular  proverb.  So  we  are 
still  a  long  way  from  being  masters  of  this  lan- 
guage." 

Such  was  the  great  burden  of  his  conversation 
when  he  met  with  those  who,  like  himself,  felt  the 
paramount  claims  of  the  unevangelised  world,  and 
who  desired  to  gain  from  him  some  hints  as  to  the 
great  secret  of  his  success  during  only  one  term  of 
service  on  the  mission  field. 

At  the  same  time,  his  earnest  devotion  to  this 
great  work  of  his  life  did  not  in  any  way  act  as  a 
depressant  upon  his  naturally  buoyant  spirits,  and 
he  was  just  as  ready  as  ever  to  enter  into  the 
interests  of  those  around  him,  and  to  have  a  game 


ON    FURLOUGH.  261 

with  some  boys,  who  always  seemed  to  be  to  him 
the  most  congenial  of  companions. 

Mr.  Hyslop  writes  of  his  impression  of  him  at  this 
period  : 

"  In  personal  appearance  he  was,  I  thought, 
unchanged.  But  in  the  place  of  the  young  University 
man  there  was,  I  might  almost  say,  the  mature 
veteran  missionary,  whose  heart  seemed  to  be 
'  bound  in  the  bundle  of  life '  with  his  beloved 
Baganda,  and  whose  mind  was  intent  on  giving 
them  the  Bible  in  their  own  tongue.  Anything 
'  Ugandese  '  (if  I  may  venture  to  coin  a  barbaric 
word)  attracted  and  interested  him,  and  I  can 
remember  how  inexhaustible  was  his  patience  in 
answering  all  importunate  questions  on  his  favourite 
subject.  He  was  equally  at  home  whether  he 
discussed  the  phonetics  of  the  native  languages,  or 
detailed  the  varieties  of  plantains  to  be  found  in 
Central  Africa  ;  whether  he  enumerated  the  vagaries 
of  King  M'Wanga,  or  described  the  customs  of  his 
people." 

At  the  Keswick  Convention,  in  July,  1896,  his 
testimony  to  the  work  of  the  Holy  Spirit  in  his  own 
life  and  in  the  Uganda  Church  was  a  stimulus  to 
many,  especially  to  the  young  men  who  were  there 
in  large  numbers. 

One  special  meeting,  at  which  he  took  part,  was 
held,  during  the  time  of  the  Convention,  of  workers 
on  behalf  of  Africa.  It  was  felt  to  be  most  desirable 
that  African  Missionaries  should  have  greater  oppor- 
tunities of  benefiting  by  one  another's  experiences, 
and  at  this  meeting  it  was  suggested  that  some  paper 


262  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

might  be  started  which  would  embrace  all  African 
Missions,  and  form  a  means  of  knowing  how  far  the 
work  of  evangelization  was  being  carried  on  in 
different  parts  of  the  continent,  and  by  what 
agencies.  The  idea  of  having  an  African  Year  Book 
of  missions  was  also  mooted,  and  the  need  of  a  text- 
book for  students  of  African  Mission -work  was 
mentioned.  This  latter  has  since  been  drawn  up  by 
Mr.  Douglas  Thornton,*  who  was  one  of  the 
conveners  of  this  meeting. 

From  Keswick,  Pilkington  went  for  a  few  days  to 
one  of  the  Universities'  Camps  for  Public  School- 
boys, at  Bexhill,  where  he  was  in  his  element.  He 
had  his  bicycle  with  him,  and  had  some  splendid 
rides  with  parties  of  boys,  but  even  during  his  time 
under  canvas  he  was  revising  the  Uganda  Bible,  and 
he  would  press  boys  into  the  service  by  getting  them 
to  read  out  to  him  from  the  English  revised  version, 
whilst  he  had  the  Luganda  before  him. 

Afterwards,  he  took  one  of  the  elder  fellows,  whom 
he  had  met  at  the  camp,  to  have  a  bicycle  tour  with 
him  in  Ireland  near  his  home. 

This  was  good  preparation  for  his  great  ride, 
especially  as  he  had  one  or  two  minor  accidents, 
which  tested,  to  some  extent,  his  powers  of  endurance. 
He  is  said,  for  instance,  to  have  ridden  for  the 
greater  part  of  one  day,  with  only  one  pedal,  having 
damaged  the  other.  We  have  dwelt  at  considerable 
length  on  some  of  the  occasions  when  Pilkington 
had  the  opportunity  of  taking  part  in  public  meetings 

•  '' Africa  Waiting,'by  Douglas  M.Thornton.  Published  by  the 
Student  Volunteer  Missionary  Union,  32  Warwick  Lane,  E.G. 


ON    FURLOUGH.  263 

and  conferences  during  his  furlough  ;  it  must  be  left 
to  another  chapter  to  speak  at  greater  length  of 
that   which   was  his  first  work,    Bible   translation. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


BIBLE   TRANSLATION. 


"  God's  revelation  on  the  one  side,  its  breadth,  its 
depth,  its  height !  On  the  other,  a  heathen  nation, 
heathen  ideas,  a  heathen  language !  How  can  the 
gulf  between  them  be  bridged  ? 

First,  we  must  understand  that  a  translation  of 
the  Bible  can,  in  the  nature  of  things,  be  adequate 
only  in  so  far  as  the  ideas  therein  contained  have 
been  transferred  to  the  native  mind. 

Love,  joy,  peace,  forgiveness,  God,  worship — 
such  ideas  as  these  cannot  be  adequately  represented 
in  any  heathen  language  at  first ;  because  they  are 
conceptions  unknown  to  heathendom.  The  words 
which  are  used  to  translate  them  will  gradually 
assume  a  new,  and  deeper,  and  purer  meaning  ;  but 
only  in  so  far  as  the  native  mind  grasps  these  new 
conceptions.  Therefore  teaching  must  go  hand  in 
hand  with  translating.  This  was  markedly  the 
case  in  Uganda. 

The  Swahili  language  was  first  used  as  a 
temporary  bridge,  so  to  say,  on  which  to  stand  to 
build  the  permanent  one,  a  translation  in  Luganda. 
This  Swahili  version  we  owed  to  the  work  of  Krapf 
and  Rebmann,  and  Bishop  Steere  and  others. 

264 


BIBLE   TRANSLATION.  265 

For  a  long  time  the  Swahili  New  Testament  was 
the  text-book  of  Uganda ;  day  after  day  the  most 
intelligent  of  the  Christians  translated  from  it  into 
their  own  language  ;  day  after  day  they  discussed 
among  themselves  the  proper  rendering  of  terms, 
appealing  to  the  European  as  to  the  exact  force  of 
the  original  ;  for  years  they  were  thus  occupied  in 
hammering  out  a  version  on  a  native  anvil. 

Then  a  tentative  translation  of  St.  Matthew's 
Gospel  was  made  by  Mackay  and  Ashe  ;  this  was 
printed  in  the  country,  eagerly  read,  and  criticised, 
and  revised ;  reprinted,  again  revised,  and  again 
printed;  and  so  on,  until  a  version  was  produced 
which  was  faithful  to  the  original  and  idiomatic,  a 
splendid  piece  of  work,  and  a  grand  basis  for  future 
translation." 

So  wrote  Pilkington  in  "The  Gospel  in  Uganda" 
of  the  first  steps  of  Bible  translation  in  that  country. 

The  difficulties  of  first  committing  to  writing  an 
unwritten  language  is  naturally  a  task  of  very  great 
difficulty,  and  this  had  been  chiefly  carried  out  by 
Mackay,  who  in  the  first  place  had  printed  reading- 
sheets  from  wooden  type  cut  with  his  own  hand. 

Assisted  chiefly  by  Ashe  in  the  way  just  referred 
to,  some  progj  ess  had  been  made  in  the  translation 
of  the  Gospels ;  this  work  was  taken  up  by  the 
Rev.  E.  C.  Gordon  on  the  death  of  Mackay,  and  at 
the  time  Pilkington  had  arrived  in  Uganda,  he  had 
translated  the  gospel  of  St.  Mark  and  commenced 
St.  Luke,  having  as  his  helpers  Henry  Wright  Duta 
and  Sembt^ra  Mackay.  He  also  completed  the 
translation  of  St.  John's  Gospel  which  had  been  left 


266  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

unfinished  by  Mackay.  Pilkington  then  took  up  the 
work  of  translation,  and,  with  Henry  Wright  Duta 
as  his  chief  assistant,  he  translated  the  rest  of  the 
New  Testament,  and  later  on  revised  the  whole, 
carrying  it  through  the  press  when  in  England. 

He  had  translated,  also,  a  considerable  part  of  the 
Old  Testament  while  in  Uganda;  the  minor  prophets 
being  contributed  by  the  Rev.  W.  A.  Crabtree,  and 
the  remainder,  Pilkington  carried  out  in  Ireland 
with  the  help  of  notes  made  in  Uganda,  in  association 
with  Henry  Wright  Duta. 

How  he  actually  did  his  work,  whilst  on  furlough 
in  his  Irish  home,  is  told  us  by  his  sister.  Miss 
Pilkington,  who  writes  of  this  as  follows  : — 

"  George  reached  Tore  for  his  furlough  in  Novem- 
ber, i8gfS.  He  had  set  before  himself  the  translation 
of  the  Bible  during  that  time.  With  this  in  view, 
before  leaving  Uganda,  he  went  over  the  untranslated 
books  with  Henry  Wright  Duta,  taking  copious 
notes. 

He  had  not  been  at  home  many  days  before  he 
began  to  work  systematically.  He  first  calculated 
how  much  translation  he  ought  to  do  daily,  in  order 
to  finish  the  whole,  leaving  a  margin  of  time,  and 
then  set  himself  a  task  for  each  day. 

He  had  no  type-writer  at  first,  nor  could  he 
discover  any  way  in  which  he  could  be  helped.  His 
progress  was  thus  very  slow,  and  each  day  he  fell 
very  far  short  of  his  appointed  task.  Soon,  however, 
he  found  that  it  would  save  him  much  time  to  have 
the  portion  to  be  translated  read  aloud.  I  read 
from  the  revised  version,  with  the  authorized  open 


BIBLE   TRANSLATION.  267 

beside  me  for  reference,  and  also  a  French  Bible,  in 
which  he  found  delicacies  of  expression  which  do 
not  appear  in  the  English.  The  writing  was  very 
fatiguing  to  him — it  was  with  great  joy  that  he 
received  a  present  of  a  type-writer.  At  first,  he 
could  not  accomplish  as  much  with  it  as  with  pen 
and  ink,  but  soon  he  learnt  to  write  so  fast  that  the 
amount  of  work  got  through  in  the  day  was  almost 
doubled,  and  with  much  less  fatigue.  We  now 
secured  the  services  of  a  lad  in  the  neighbourhood, 
who  shared  the  reading  aloud  with  me. 

The  type-writer  was  placed  on  an  erection  at 
which  he  could  stand,  without  being  compelled  to 
stoop  as  in  writing ;  he  could  now  work  for  hours 
without  being  over-tired,  and  thus  standing  sur- 
rounded by  commentaries,  Greek  Testament,  and  the 
parts  of  the  Bible  already  finished,  and  his  notes,  he 
translated  and  wrote  as  I  read.  As  a  rule,  he  was 
able  to  write  off  quite  rapidly  ;  sometimes  there  were 
long  delays  while  a  word  was  hunted  up  to  ascertain 
how  it  had  been  translated  in  a  former  passage,  or 
an  obscure  portion  looked  out  in  the  commentaries. 
As  well  as  I  remember,  'Proverbs'  was  the  book 
he  translated  with  the  greatest  ease  and  rapidity, 
that  book  seemed  specially  to  be  adapted  to  the 
Luganda  mode  of  expression  and  way  of  thought, 
while  the  long  lists  of  proper  names  in  i  Chronicles, 
each  of  which  had  to  be  spelled,  were  by  far  the 
most  tedious  parts. 

He  generally  worked  on  w  ithout  much  pause  for 
conversation,  but  now  and  again  some  verse 
suggested  a  thought,  and  a  talk  or  discussion  ensued, 


268  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

or  some  idiom  or  beauty  in  the  languas^e  was  too 
interesting  to  be  passed  over  in  silence  ;  then  would 
follow  a  comparison  between  Luganda  and  Hindu- 
stani, with  probably  a  digression  on  the  characteristics 
of  the  Waganda  and  the  natives  of  India,  and  the 
best  methods  of  reaching  these  different  peoples.  But, 
as  a  rule,  we  worked  hard  without  interruption ;  I 
used  often  to  be  reminded  of  our  more  youthful  days 
when  play  was  more  absorbing  than  work,  but  his 
keenness  was  just  the  same,  and  in  a  game  of  lawn 
tennis,  whether  as  partner  or  opponent,  he  never 
would  allow  one  to  grow  slack  for  a  moment — as  boy 
or  man.  Not  only  was  he  himself  whole-hearted 
in  whatever  he  undertook,  but  he  inspired  others  to 
be  so  ;  it  seemed  as  if  half-heartedness  could  not 
exist  in  his  presence. 

He  worked  generally  for  six  or  eight  hours  a 
day,  and  for  three  weeks,  when  we  had  the  house 
almost  to  ourselves,  the  rest  of  the  family  being 
away,  he  reached  an  average  of  ten  hours  a  day. 
At  this  time  especially  his  bicycle  was  a  great  help, 
for  half-an-hour's  run  on  it  refreshed  him  so 
completely  that  he  could  start  with  new  energy. 

He  always  worked  with  the  window  of  his  room 
wide  open,  he  being  stationed  near  it,  his  brain 
refused  to  act  without  an  abundance  of  fresh  air  ! 

When  a  book  was  translated  it  had,  of  course,  to 
be  carefully  revised,  then  sent  to  the  Printer,  the 
proofs  received  back,  revised,  and  again  sent  to  the 
Printer,  then  once  more  carefully  looked  over  before 
the  final  printing  took  place. 

-He  was  sometimes  away  for  a  few  weeks  at   a 


BIBLE   TRANSLATION.  269 

time  addressing  meetings,  but  in  order  that  he 
might  have  time  for  the  translation  he  was  not  called 
upon  to  do  much  deputation  work.  He  spoke  at  a 
good  many  meetings  in  our  own  neighbourhood. 

When  not  at  work  he  was  generally  talking  over 
plans  for  the  extension  of  Christ's  Kingdom  all  over 
the  world,  especially  in  Uganda  and  its  neighbouring 
countries,  but  Arabia,  the  Soudan,  and  all  the 
Mohammedan  world  lay  very  near  his  heart  ;  the 
great  problem  of  how  to  bring  the  Gospel  Message 
home  to  the  hearts  of  the  Mohammedans  was  a 
most  frequent  topic  of  conversation. 

He  liked  to  talk  over  anything  that  he  was  about 
to  write,  such  as  articles  for  Magazines,  and  '  The 
Gospel  in  Uganda,'  which  Mr.  Baskerville  and  he 
wrote  while  at  home. 

During  the  last  months  of  his  furlough,  his 
thoughts  were  much  occupied  by  the  three  years 
enterprise  for  Uganda,  he  was  constantly  making 
plans  and  calculations  as  to  how  the  European 
Missionaries  might  move  on  to  new  ground,  leaving 
the  work  already  established  to  natives.  The 
evangelisation  of  the  whole  world  was  always  before 

him. 

He  was  one  of  those  w^ho  longed  to  impart  a 
new  idea  to  others,  and  sometimes  at  a  very  early 
hour  in  the  morning,  unable  to  wait  any  longer,  he 
would  seek  me  out  full  of  eagerness  to  tell  of  some 
new  plan  that  had  struck  him,  or  calculation  he  had 
made  as  to  how  many  heathen  could  be  reached  in 
a  given  time  ;  he  loved  to  work  out  his  ideas  in  a 
mathematical    form,    and    tn    illustrate    them    with 


270  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

diagrams,  or  sometimes  it  was  to  put  forward  some 
fresh  argument  in  a  discussion  which  had  been  cut 
short  the  night  before. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  so  much  of  his  time 
was  devoted  to  work,  his  interest  and  share  in  the 
family  Hfe  was  very  keen.  He  entered  into  all  our 
plans  for  amusement  with  boyish  zest,  and  was 
always  the  life  of  the  party,  bringing  fun  and  good 
humour  wherever  he  went. 

He  left  us  for  Uganda  in  October,  1897,  deeply 
happy  in  having  accomplished  the  task  he  had  set 
before  him." 

Besides  his  translation  of  the  Bible,  Pilkington 
also  revised  the  Prayer  Book,  and  the  Rev. 
T.  W.  Drury,  Principal  of  the  Church  Mission- 
ary College,  Islington,  who  came  in  contact 
with  him  in  connection  with  this  work,  bears 
witness  to  the  clear  grasp  of  Christian  doctrine 
which  he  possessed.  This  is  all  the  more  remark- 
able, seeing  that  Pilkington  had  not  in  the  ordinary 
way  been  trained  in  Theology,  yet  no  doubt  the 
close  study  of  God's  word  necessary  for  the 
translation  had  been  in  itself  a  Theological  training. 

But  in  addition  to  translational  work,  Pilkington 
was  the  author  of  one  important  original  pamphlet 
in  Uganda,  as  well  as  a  number  of  hymns.  This 
pamphlet,  under  the  title  of  "  Anonya  Alaba,  He 
who  seeketh  findeth,"  dealt  with  the  teaching  of 
the  Church  of  Rome. 

The  title  of  the  first  chapter,  *'  Love,"  is 
suggestive  of  the  spirit  in  which  he  entered  into 
the  discussion  of  controversial  questions  with  those 


BIBLE   TRANSLATION.  271 

who  differed  from  him,  and  it  was  this  which  gained 
for  him  the  respect  in  which  he  was  held  by  all 
parties. 

The  basis  of  his  argument  was,  as  he  said,  "  the 
book  of  the  Apostles  of  our  Lord."  He  referred  to 
this  as  the  source  from  which  both  parties  professed 
to  derive  their  teaching,  at  the  same  time  illustrating 
his  remarks  by  references  to  Church  History. 

One  chapter  is  headed  with  the  extraordinary 
title  "  Mr.  Eat  and  put  back."  In  this  he  alluded 
to  the  way  in  which  the  Church  of  Rome  had  taken 
away  much  from  the  Word  of  God  and  inserted 
her  own  traditions  in  its  place  ;  this  he  compared 
to  the  action  of  the  white  ants  who  eat  out  the 
inside  of  a  log  of  wood  and  put  earth  in  its  place. 

By  such  similes  as  these  he  was  able  to  gain  the 
attention  of  ths  paople,  and  what  is  more,  to  make 
his  words  intelligible  to  them. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


THE  CHURCH  IN  UGANDA  :  A  RETROSPECT. 

The  story  of  the  Uganda  Church,  whether  we  think 
of  it  as  the  wonderful  cathedral  on  Namirembe  Hill 
and  all  the  work  connected  with  it,  or  as  the  body 
of  Christians  gathered  out  from  heathendom  in  the 
centre  of  dark  Africa,  was  often  told  by  Pilkington 
during  his  furlough.  But  he  did  more.  He  has 
furnished  us  with  a  vivid  picture  of  the  work  in 
Uganda,  in  the  shape  of  four  scenes,  which  are 
published  in  pamphlet  form,*  but  which  we  are 
enabled  to  reproduce  here  as  we  believe  they  form 
the  best  permanent  record  of  these  addresses. 
"  A  HUNDRED  thousand  souls  brought  into  close 
contact  with  the  Gospel — half  of  them  able  to  read 
for  themselves;  two  hundred  buildings  raided  by 
native  Christians  in  which  to  worship  God  and  read 
His  Word ;  two  hundred  native  evangelists  and 
teachers  entirely  supported  by  the  Native  Church  ; 
ten  thousand  copies  of  the  New  Testament  in 
circulation  ;  six  thousand  souls  eagerly  seeking  daily 
instruction  ;  statistics  of  baptism,  of  confirmation, 
of  adherents,  of  teachers,  more  than  doubling  yearly 

* "  The  Gospel  in    Uganda."     Church    Missionary   Society, 
Salisbury  Square,  EC. 

27i2 


THE   CHURCH    IN    UGANDA.  273 

for  the  last  six  or  seven  years,  ever  since  the  return 
of  the  Christians  from  exile ;  the  power  of  God 
shown  by  changed  lives ;  and  all  this  in  the  centre 
of  the  thickest  spiritual  darkness  in  the  world ! 
Does  it  not  make  the  heart  reel  with  mingled 
emotions  of  joy  and  fear,  of  hope  and  apprehension? 

Well  may  Christian  hearts  rejoice  with  trembling 
as  they  hear  of  it  !  Well  may  they  '  labour  in 
prayers  '  for  such  possibilities,  either  of  magnificent 
success  or  heartbreaking  disaster !  " 

The  following  is  an  attempt  to  describe  what  the 
writer  has  seen  of  these  things : 

Scene  I. 
"  We  are  in  the  great  church  in  the  capital  on 
Namirembe  Hill.  It  is  a  week-day,  any  week-day 
but  Monday,  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning. 
As  we  glance  down  the  aisles  of  poles,  we  see  that 
the  whole  building  is  filled  with  groups  of  learners, 
sitting  most  of  them  on  the  floor,  but  the  teachers 
and  some  others  on  chairs  or  stools ;  some  dressed 
in  robes  of  snow-white  calico,  others  in  bark-cloth 
knotted  over  the  right  shoulder.  What  is  this  large 
group,  fifty  or  sixty  in  number  ?  This  is  a  class  for 
St.  Mathew's  Gospel,  and  this  teacher  with  refined 
and  intellectual  face  is  Thomas  Semfuma,  and  he  is 
teaching  St.  Matthew's  Gospel.  There  are  two  or 
three  other  classes  for  this  one  Gospel,  which,  as  it 
was  the  first  translated,  is  still  the  most  popular. 
And  who  is  that  keen  and  energetic  little  man  who 
is  organizing  those  elementary  classes  for  reading 
near  the  end  of  the  church  ?  That  is  Wambu^i, 
t 


274  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

God-gifted  for  that,  to  us,  tedious  and  trying  work. 
No  hound  keener  after  game  than  he  after  every 
soul  that  can  ft-om  Heathen  be  transformed  into  a 
seeker  after  God ;  none  more  unwearied  than  he 
in  hammering  into  dull  heads  the  letters  and 
syllables  which  are  to  be  the  means  of  letting  in 
the  Gospel  light.  Come  out  for  a  moment  from  the 
church,  and  from  the  high  vantage  point  of  Nami- 
rembe's  summit,  look  out  at  that  cluster  of  bee-hive 
huts  on  that  hillside  opposite.  That  is  an  encamp- 
ment of  Wasoga,  come  from  their  homes  across  the 
Nile  to  make  noisy  music  with  the  blare  of  their 
horns  and  the  monotonous  twang  of  their  harps  for 
Mwanga's  royal  ears.  If  you  go  there  this  after- 
noon, you  will  be  not  unlikely  to  meet  indefatigable 
Wambuzi  as  he  passes  from  hut  to  hut,  trying  to 
coax  these  wild  and  untaught,  but  good-natured  and 
easily-led  Wasoga,  into  giving  heed  to  the  things  of 
God.  Many  and  many  a  Musoga  has  gone  home 
with  the  first  beginnings  of  Divine  knowledge 
instilled  into  his  mind  by  Wambuzi's  persevering 
efforts.     May  God  give  many  like  him  ! 

There  are  many  other  classes,  forty  or  so  in  all, 
with  an  average  of  thirty  or  forty  in  each  class. 
Each  of  the  four  Gospels  is  represented  by  more 
than  one  class ;  and  some  of  the  European  Mission- 
aries are  teaching  the  Epistles,  while  one  organizes 
and  supervises  the  whole. 

But  what  is  that  sound  that  recalls  us  to  the 
church  and  its  congregation,  nearly  forgotten  as  we 
gazed  across  the  hills  into  far-off  Kikabya  and 
Bulemezi,  and  thought  of  the  millions  lying  behind 


THE    CHURCH    IN    UGANDA.  275 

those    hills    to   north,    and  .  east,    and    west,  .and 

wondered  when,  oh,  when ! 

But  the  loud,  rhythmical  beat  of  the  great  drum 
calling  us  to  prayers,  heard  for  some  four  or  five 
miles  round,  disturbs  our  reverie,  and  we  return  to 
the  church  as  the  classes  break  up  and  gather  in  the 
front  while  one  of  the  native  readers  or  deacons 
gives  out  a  hymn  ;  then  the  Apostles'  Creed  is 
recited  as  by  men  who  believe  it :  then  prayers, 
some  from  the  Prayer-book,  some  extempore.  And 
then  the  assembly  breaks  up,  and  we  watch  them 
dispersing,  the  bright  sun  gleaming  on  the  snowy 
robes  of  the  chiefs,  and  less  dazzlingly  on  the 
humble  bark-cloth  of  the  poorer  folk,  as  down  the 
hill  they  go  to  pursue  their  various  avocations — 
chiefs  to  decide  disputes  or  pay  their  respects  to 
the  king ;  women  to  cultivate  and  cook ;  boys  to 
dance  attendance  on  their  lords  or  run  messages ; 
some  to  the  market,  some  out  to  their  farms  in  the 
country." 

Scene  II. 

"  It  is  three  o'clock  one  Friday  afternoon,  and  again 
we  climb  the  hill  and  enter  the  great  church  ;  it 
is  not  full,  but  perhaps  a  thousand  or  more  are 
gathered  on  this  first  Friday  in  the  month  to  hear 
what  God  has  been  doing  throughout  Uganda  and  in 
some  neighbouring  countries,  and  to  bid  prayerful 
farewell  tc  those  who  are  being  sent  out  with  the 
Go>pel  me  sage  to  needy  places,  and  to  bring 
offerings  to  God  for  the  support  of  this  work. 

Who  is  that  youn^  fellow  who  is  pleading  with 


276  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

tears  for  more  labourers  for  that  dark  spot  where  he 
has  been  working  against  great  odds  for  some 
months  ?  That  is  Nathaniel.  As  he  speaks  of  the 
need  and  the  encouragemi  nts  he  has  met  with,  and 
the  difficulties,  we  are  encouraged  and  depressed  by 
turns. 

And  who  is  this  who  is  telHng  of  a  great  work  in 
Koki,  far  away  to  the  south-west  ?  Defiant  opposi- 
tion, slander,  misunderstandings,  and  then  prayer 
answered  ;  charms  brought  to  be  broken  or  burnt ; 
a  weekly  congregation  of  two  or  three  hundred  souls, 
besides  others  in  the  country ;  books  bought  in  con- 
siderable quantities,  and  sixty  able  to  read  a  Gospel 
where  not  one  could  read  before.  This  is  lame 
Michael,  who,  in  spite  of  his  lameness,  result  of  a 
bullet  in  the  Mohammedan  wars,  undertook  the 
journey  to  Koki,  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  away, 
and  with  the  help  of  half  a  dozen  other  teachers,  bore 
a  bright  Gospel  testimony  in  that  interesting  country, 
befriended,  it  is  true,  by  the  King,  Kamswaga,  whose 
handsome  and  intelligent  features  and  quiet  dignity 
of  manner  have  greatly  impressed  all  Europeans  who 
have  known  him.  This  young  ruler  decided  a  year 
ago  to  be  instructed  in  the  reformed  Christian 
religion,  in  spite  of  the  great  pressure  brought  to 
bear  on  him  from  more  than  one  influential  quarter. 
He  spent  a  few  weeks  in  the  capital,  and  at  that 
time  declared  his  intention  of  being  a  Protestant 
by  attending  services  on  Sunday  in  the  big  church ; 
after  his  return  to  Koki  with  Michael,  and  when  he 
had  by  his  instruction  learnt  more  of  the  Protestant 
religion,  he  wrote  a  letter  to  the  Church  at  Mengo 


THE   CHURCH    IN    UGANDA.  277 

declaring  his  fixed  intention  of  persevering  in  the 
course  he  had  entered  on,  in  spite  of  opposition.  The 
possibihties  of  service  offered  in  Koki  are  unique. 

Or  perhaps  we  have  the  privilege  this  afternoon  of 
listening  to  the  story  of  evangelisation  in  Toro,  two 
hundred  miles  due  west  from  Mengo,  and  therefore 
within  only  a  trifling  distance  of  Stanley's  Great 
Forest  and  the  dwarfs.  Perhaps  it  is  Noah  Nakiwafu 
who  is  telling  about  the  trials  and  encouragements 
there  ;  how  Kasagama,  the  King  of  Toro,  welcomed 
them,  and  how  presents  were  sent  and  efforts  made 
to  induce  him  to  profess  a  less  pure  form  of  Christain 
faith— in  vain.  How,  imitatmg  the  example  of  the 
native  evangelists,  although  they  never  spoke  to 
him  about  it,  he  became  a  total  abstainer,  strange 
novelty  for  a  great  African  chief;  and  how  now  (if 
we  may  project  into  past  time  what  we  now  know 
to  be  the  case)  he  has  asked  for  baptism.  How  a 
church  was  built  in  some  still  more  remote  spot,  and 
application  made  for  teachers,  and  how  none  were 
forthcoming  ;  how  the  two  churches  in  Toro  were 
filled  each  Sunday  with  congregations  of  two  or 
three  hundred  ;  how  the  King  of  Unyoro,  Kabarega, 
sent  an  army  and  broke  up  the  work  in  the  more 
northern  of  the  two  stations  (where  Japheth,  long 
ago  baptised,  is  chief),  but  only  for  a  time  ;  and  how 
the  natives  with  their  teachers  were  in  hiding  until 
the  army  retired ;  and  how  afterwards  Lwabudongo, 
Kabarega's  prime  minister,  wishing  for  peace  with 
the  British,  came  to  Kasagama  and  became  his  man, 
and  is  now.  with  many  of  his  followers,  desirous  of 
Christian  instruction. 


278  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

But  we  must  pass  on  from  Noah's  most  interesting 
story,  and  listen  to  the  accounts  from  nearer  home : 
from  Kyagwe,  where  some  sixty  churches  have  in  a 
year  sprung  up,  under  the  fostering  care  of  the 
central  station  at  Ngogwe;  from  the  Islands  of  Sese, 
where  more  than  twenty  churches  on  as  many  islands 
testify  to  the  wish  of  the  sailors  and  fishermen  of 
Uganda  to  hear  the  Gospel,  in  spite  of  the  foolish 
belief  that  no  Christian  or  reader  ever  can  be  a 
successful  fisherman  ;  as  soon  as  the  fish  see  a  book 
in  the  angler's  hands,  either  they  will  all  die,  or,  at 
any  rate,  refuse  to  be  caught. 

But  at  last  the  various  speakers  have  finished, 
and  a  hymn  of  praise  has  been  sung,  and  prayers 
have  been  offered  for  further  blessing  on  the  work. 
And  now  a  list  of  names  is  being  read,  and  as  each 
name  is  called  out,  we  see  a  young  man  rise  from 
his  seat,  till  some  eight  or  ten  are  standing  up  ; 
these  are  evangelists  who  are  being  sent  out  to  some 
of  the  country  churches.  And  now  an  address  is 
being  given,  urging,  probably,  on  these  young 
messengers  of  Christ,  their  duties  and  responsibilities, 
and  on  the  Native  Church  their  part  in  the  work, 
their  duty  of  prayer,  and  the  pri\  ilege  of  giving  in 
support  of  their  evangelists,  for  all  the  native 
teachers  are  supported  by  the  natives:  'It  is  more 
blessed  to  give  than  to  receive,  and  we  Europeans 
cannot  rob  you  of  your  blessing  by  supporting  your 
teachers,'  so  we  have  often  told  thern.  And  so, 
when  the  address  is  over,  we  shall  see  them  coming 
forward  with  their  offerings  to  God— shells,  which 
they  deposit  in  a  large  native  basket  placed  in  "the 


THE   CHURCH    IN    UGANDA.  279 

centre  of  the  aisle ;  calico,  bark  cloth — the  beauti- 
fully prepared  bark  of  a  kind  of  hg  tree,  torn  off  in 
strips,  scraped,  beaten  with  grooved  mallets,  and 
sewn  together  with  plantain  fibre ;  mats  ;  fowls  ; 
goats  ;  cows  sometimes,  and  even  ivory ;  and  then 
comes  a  long  stream  of  women  and  girls,  each 
carrying  a  bunch  of  plantains  or  a  bundle  of  sweet 
potatoes  on  her  head,  till  the  pile  of  offerings  grows 
to  an  alarming  size,  though  its  money  value  is  not 
great ;  and  then  a  prayer  of  dedication  is  oftered, 
and  we  ask  the  Lord  to  accept  and  make  use  of 
these  gifts  which  He  has  allowed  us  to  give  Him ; 
and  then  the  benediction,  and  the  service  is  ended. 

These  monthly  Missionary  Meetings  are  now 
b^ing  established  in  other  centres  too. 

Do  these  evangelists  do  good  work  ? 

A  Missionary  visited  a  small  island  in  the  Lake 
two  years  ago,  and  found  one  person  only  there  who 
could  read  at  all.  Two  teachers  were  sent,  and 
after  nine  months  sixty  were  able  to  read  a  Gospel. 
Two  teachers  were  sent  to  another  island  :  in  a 
year  one  church,  or  rather  hovel,  capable  of  con- 
taining a  hundred  by  crushing,  had  become  four 
churches,  one  of  them  holding  seven  hundred  souls, 
and  the  congregation  of  a  hundred  had  become  a 
thousand,  and  some  fifty  or  more  had  been  baptized, 
and  many  more  were  catechumens ;  its  name  is 
Busi.     You  can  see  it  on  the  map. 

The  teacher  whom  God  chiefly  used  to  produce 
these  wonderful  results  is  a  man  of  spiritual  power  ; 
on  fire  with  love  to  God  and  man.  '  Oh,  Lord,  we 
have  only  the  bare  line,  Thou  hast  the  hook,'  so  he 


280  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

prayed  one  day  as  he  asked  that  souls  might  that 
day  be  saved.  And  God  has  proved  that  hook 
sharp  and  barbed  to  His  servant  who  has  counted 
upon  Him. 

The  v^ork  done  and  being  done  by  these  teachers 
has  opened  our  eyes  to  marvellous  possibilities  for 
Africa  and  the  World.  '  The  World  to  be 
evangelised  in  this  generation  ' — can  it  be  done  ? 

Kyagwe,  a  province  fifty  miles  square,  has  had 
the  Gospel  preached,  by  lip  and  life,  through  almost 
every  village  in  the  space  of  one  short  year,  by  some 
seventy  native  evangelists,  under  the  supervision  of 
only  two  Europeans :  more  than  two  thousand 
square  miles  and  only  two  Europeans  !  The 
teacher,  on  Busi  above  mentioned,  has  by  this  time 
probably  accomplished  his  purpose  of  visiting  every 
house  in  that  island  with  the  message  of  Salvation 
on  his  lips.  Soon  we  may  hope  that  there  will  be 
no  house  left  in  Uganda  that  has  not  had  God's 
message  brought  thus  to  its  very  threshold.  What 
is  to  prevent  the  extension  of  this  system  two 
hundred  miles"  in  every  direction  round  Mengo — 
this  is  the  distance  of  our  furthest  outpost,  Toro — 
in  the  course  of  a  few  years,  three  or  four  ?  Only 
the  lack  of  the  comparatively  few  European  trainers 
and  organizers  needed  for  so  magnificent  an 
expansion  !  Will  they  not  be  forthcoming  ?  '  Let 
us  go  up  at  once  and  possess  it ;  for  we  are  well 
able  to  overcome  it.'  " 

Scene    HI. 
''And  now  let  me  transport  you  to  the  wooded 


THE  CHURCH    IN    UGANDA.  281 

island  of  Kome  ;  for,  standing  on  its  centre  ridge, 
we  can  gaze  across  the  Lake  to  east,  and  west,  and 
north — a  very  lovely  sight.  There  is  Ntebe  twenty 
miles  away  on  the  mainland,  the  Government 
Station,  the  port  of  Mengo  ;  we  have  there  a  church, 
in  fact,  three  churches  and  four  teachers,  with  a 
promising  work.  On  that  bare  island  of  Nsazi, 
separated  by  only  a  narrow  piece  of  water  from  that 
on  which  we  stand,  and  contrasting  strangely  its 
treeless  hillsides  with  Rome's  rich  forests,  there  is  a 
small  church.  It  is  only  some  two  years  since  a 
missionary,  visiting  Nsazi,  found  there  only  one  soul 
who  could  read  at  all.  Two  teachers  were  sent 
there.  After  nine  months'  work  there  were  sixty 
who  could  read  pretty  well. 

Then  over  to  the  east  lies  Lwaji,  first  of  the 
Buvuma  Islands,  though  politically  part  of  Uganda ; 
here  is  a  church  and  a  keen  desire  to  learn.  And 
far  away  behmd  Lwaji,  we  see  the  large  Buvuma 
Island,  dark-wooded  ridge  bounding  the  furthest 
horizon  ;  and  about  it  lie  its  smaller  sisters  of  the 
Buvuma  group,  all  still  unoccupied  by  the  Gospel, 
except  uttermost  Bugaya,  the  one  bright  spot  in 
great  darkness.  On  this  outlying  island  a  good 
work  seems  to  be  going  on  ;  the  two  chiefs  of  it  seem 
favourably  disposed,  and  several  have  learnt  to  read ; 
a  church  has  been  built.  The  three  Muganda 
teachers  sent  there  showed  much  real  Christian  zeal 
and  self-denial,  resolutely  putting  up  with  food  to 
which  they  were  not  accustomed  (and  little  enough 
of  that),  a  kind  of  canary  seed  made  into  porridge, 
husks  and    all ;    eaten    with    milk,    or    with  a   kind 


282  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

of    sour    fruit ;     it    is    poor    stuff    after    plantains. 

A  boy  from  this  island  of  Kome,  a  slave  by  old 
native  law,  followed  one  of  the  missionaries  to  the 
capital,  and  finding  that  he  could  claim  his  freedom, 
he  did  so,  and  was  declared  free  by  the  Katikiro.  A 
bright  idea  struck  him ;  he  would  go  and  release 
from  domestic  slavery  a  sister,  whose  master  owned 
her  by  the  same  right  by  which  he  had  owned  him, 
the  brother.  So  off  he  went — to  return  crestfallen  ; 
he  had  met  only  ridicule  and  contempt.  '  What, 
she,  a  member  of  a  decent  family,  take  a  freedom 
which  wasn't  hers!  Was  ever  the  like  heard!' 
Like  the  Irish-woman,  who  replied  to  the  kind- 
hearted  stranger  who,  summoned  by  her  screams, 
rebuked  her  husband  for  so  cruelly  beating  his  wife, 
*And  who's  got  a  better  right?'  A  willing  slave  is 
a  slave  indeed. 

Turning  our  eyes  a  little  to  the  south,  we  see 
Bukasa,  now  a  C.M.S.  Station,  and  the  centre  of  the 
work  in  the  Sese  Islands.  Yes,  let  our  eyes  rest  a 
while  on  its  long  ridge  ;  it  is  a  bright  spot ;  had  you 
once  seen  its  tall  and  hideous  (with  sm_all-pox  marks) 
but  delightful  master,  you  would  not  soon  forgot 
him.  He  it  was  who  sent  back,  unbidden  by  any 
voice  but  that  of  God  and  the  native  teacher,  the 
slaves  captured  on  Buvuma  Island,  in  the  war  that 
took  place  there  some  four  years  ago.  Those  who 
saw  him  shoving  his  way  through  crowds  of  book- 
buyers  in  the  old  days  on  Namirembe,  and  returning 
to  the  fray  again  and  again  to  purchase  reading 
sheets  for  his  islanders,  when  dearth  of  books  had 
caused  the  missionaries  to  refuse  to  sell  more  than 


THE   CHURCH    IN    UGANDA.  283 

one  copy  at  a  time  to  a  single  purchaser,  will  not 
forget  his  persistence  and  jovial  good  temper. 

He  and  two  other  island  chiefs,  when  almost  all 
the  islands  were  in  the  hands  of  the  Roman 
Catholics,  stood  firm  in  spite  of  much  opposition, 
and  that,  though  their  own  knowledge  at  that  time 
was  only  trifling.  Would  that  we  had  as  good 
reason  to  believe  that  the  other  two  are  the  Lord's 
as  we  have  of  him  ! 

The  large  Island  of  Sese  is  not  generally  visible 
from  Kome,  but  we  can  imagine  that  we  see  it  some 
ten  miles  beyond  Bukasa,  rising  high  above  all  its 
satellites,  twisted  like  some  great  snake  upon  the 
Lake's  bosom.  All  its  chiefs  are  Roman  Catholics; 
yet  on  it  are  some  three  hundred  and  twenty  Protes- 
tants, nicknamed,  we  are  told,  '  the  people  of  the 
Holy  Ghost,'  and  enduring  some  persecution  and 
opposition  for  the  truth's  sake,  ignorant  as  they  are. 
The  Native  Church  has  sent  them  two  teachers  and 
a  plentiful  supply  of  books;  and  they  hold  the  fort 
there,  despite  the  presence  of  three  French  Mission- 
aries ;  the  latter  have  had  a  station  there  for  years. 
Pray  for  this  little  struggling  church. 

On  that  Sese  group  of  islands,  and  on  those  in 
the  midst  of  which  Kome  lies,  there  are  some  twenty 
churches ;  and  in  no  part  of  Uganda  has  a  greater 
desire  for  *  reading  '  been  shown  than  on  Sese.  May 
the  holy  fire  be  passed  on  to  Buvuma  and  Kigulu, 
and  on  through  the  islands  that  lie  along  the 
Kavirondo  coast  to  Ukerewe,  and  there  mingle  with 
the  flame  that  is  already  glimmering  at  Nasa,  from 
which  bright  reports  have  reached  us  lately  of  the 


284  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

Gospel  preached  each  Sunday  in  six  different  places 
round;  and  where  the  Gospels  are  rapidly  being 
translated  into  the  Sukuma  language  and  being 
printed.  And  may  it  also  spread  down  the  western 
side  to  Bumbide,  most  northern  of  the  islands  in  the 
German  sphere,  and  along  the  southern  shore  of  the 
Lake  to  Nasa  again." 

Scene  IV. 

**  It  is  Sunday  afternoon,  and  some  eighty  souls 
are  just  about  to  be  admitted  into  the  visible  Church 
by  baptism.  They  are  arranged — men  on  the  left, 
women  on  the  right — in  a  great  semicircle  by  the 
font  near  the  door  of  the  church.  One  by  one  they 
answer  the  solemn  questions,  and  are  baptized  into 
solemn  covenant  with  the  Triune  God. 

It  is  a  solemn  scene,  and  yet  the  truth  must  be 
confessed,  that  familiarity  has  taken  much  of  its 
solemnity  away.  How  solemn  must  have  been  those 
secret  baptisms  ten  years  back,  when  baptizer  and 
baptized  must  have  felt  that  before  long  the  baptism 
of  water  might  be  sealed  by  a  baptism  of  blood  ! 
But,  now,  when  fifty  baptisms  take  place  on  an 
average  every  week,  and  when,  alas,  a  profession  of 
Christianity  is  sometimes  made  for  the  sake  of  social 
advantages,  the  service  is  often  not  what  it  might  be. 

How  have  the  candidates  been  prepared  for 
admission  to  this  solemn  rite  ?  Probably  some  two 
or  three  years  ago  they  began  to  learn  to  read, 
taught  in  their  own  homes  by  their  friends,  or, 
perhaps,  by  teachers  in  the  various  country  churches. 
It    is   astonishing   what    an    educational    value  this 


THE   CHURCH    IN    UGANDA.  285 

reading  of  God's  Word  has  ;  their  ver}^  physiognomy 
seems  to  be  changed  by  it,  so  that  it  is  almost 
possible  to  tell  a  reader  by  his  outward  appearance. 
And  in  no  other  way  does  the  reality  of  God  seem  to 
impress  itself  so  forcibly  on  the  native  mind  as  by 
the  daily  poring  over  the  pages  of  the  New  Testa- 
ment, at  first  mechanically,  and  then  with  more  and 
more  glimmering  of  meaning,  until  at  last  the  Divine 
message  of  love  is  intelligently  grasped,  and  perhaps 
driven  home  by  some  sermon,  or  meeting,  or  the 
faithful  words  of  a  friend,  and  another  catechumen 
is  added  to  the  roll,  and,  we  trust,  another  soul  to 
the  company  of  Christ.  It  is  a  noticeable  and 
deeply  instructive  fact  that  profession  of  conversion 
never,  or  hardly  ever,  has  been  made  by  a  M  Uganda 
who  cannot  read,  except,  of  course,  a  few  special 
cases  of  blind  or  old.  At  the  close  of  some  of  our 
services,  after-meetings  are  sometimes  held,  and  those 
present  are  asked  to  signify  in  some  way  their 
acceptance  of  God's  gift  of  eternal  life  ;  out  of  many 
hundreds  the  writer  has  never  known  any  such 
profession  made  by  a  person  who  had  not  learnt  to 
read  ;  the  very  words  are  not  intelligible  to  those 
who  hear  them  for  the  first  time — sin,  salvation, 
love,  faith,  etc.,  convey  little  meaning  to  their  minds. 
Be  it  understood,  at  the  same  time,  that  on  this  very 
account  we  take  the  greater  pains  to  point  out  to 
tl-.em  continually  that  there  is  nothing  to  prevent  an 
absolutely  ignorant  and  utterly  sinful  soul,  the  very 
moment  the  Gospel  message  is  grasped  and  believed, 
obtaining  the  full  and  free  salvation  which  we 
proclaim. 


286  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

In  some  such  way,  with  infinite  variety  of  detail 
and  experience,  has  each  individual  of  the  class  of 
thirty  cate-^humens,  whom  we  see  sitting  at  the  feet 
of,  say,  Samuel  Naganafa,  now  Mukasa,  been  brought 
to  desire  baptism ;  some,  alas,  no  doubt,  have  been 
influenced  by  worldly  motives  of  social  advancement, 
or  by  the  mere  example  of  others  to  enrol  themselves 
for  admission  into  the  Church. 

For  two  or  three  months  past  they  have  been  daily 
carefully  instructed  in  St.  Matthew's  Gospel,  and  are 
now  half-way  through  St.  John.  One  of  them  reads 
aloud  a  passage,  then  Samuel  makes  comments  and 
asks  questions,  and  his  pupils  ask  questions,  some 
wise,  some  foolish,  e.g.,  '  Why  did  John  the  Baptist 
send  disciples  to  the  Lord  to  ask  if  He  were  the 
Christ  ? '  '  Wisdom  is  justified  of  her  chldren— 
what  does  this  mean  ? '  '  What  was  the  name  of 
Peter's  wife's  mother  ?  '  '  and  his  wife's  name  ?  ' 
'  How  is  it  that  Herod,  whose  death  we  read  of 
some  time  ago,  reappears  on  the  scene  ?  '  and  so  on. 

When  four  month's  instruction  or  so  is  com- 
plete, they  will  be  examined,  and  some  tears  shed, 
probably,  if  they  '  fall '  {i.e.,  are  '  ploughed  ') ;  then  if 
no  reason  appears,  on  inquiry  made,  to  prevent  their 
baptism,  they  will  be  brought  forward  the  next 
Sunday  afternoon.     And  so  the  Church  grows." 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

THE  FUTURE  OF  UGANDA:  A  FORECAST. 

We  have  glanced  at  the  past,  how  about  the  future? 
Time  was,  when  Uganda  was  regarded  as  a  mere 
isolated  centre  in  the  mission  field,  a  land  of 
romance  but  little  more.  Bat  that  day  is  gone. 
Africa  is  no  longer  looked  upon  as  the  special 
preserve  of  the  explorer,  the  scientist,  or  the 
Missionary.  We  need  fields  for  the  development 
of  our  commerce,  and  an  outlet  for  the  energies  of 
our  race.  A  great  part  of  our  British  Empire  lies 
in  Africa,  and  we  must  see  to  its  development.  We 
have  had  put  before  us  the  ideal  of  a  great  highway 
from  Cairo  to  the  Cape,  with  its  two  most  important 
junctions,  Khartum  and  Uganda,  and  whilst  we 
owe  the  conception  of  this  project  to  one  well- 
known  living  Englishman,  we  must  not  forget  those 
to  whom,  as  much  as  any,  is  due  the  interest  now 
being  taken  by  Great  Britain  in  this  splendid 
scheme. 

Gordon  from  the  north,  Livingstone  from  the 
south,  advanced  along  this  line,  each  to  die  alone, 
though  under  very  different  circumstances  ;  yet 
each  was  fully  convinced  that  some  day  Christian 
England  would  awake  to  her  responsibility  to  these- 


288  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA, 

regions.  "  I  beg  to  direct  your  attention  to  Africa," 
said  Livingstone  in  the  Senate  House  at  Cambridge 
in  December,  1857.  "  I  know  that  within  a  few 
years  I  shall  be  cut  off  in  that  country  which  is  now 
open  ;  do  not  let  it  be  shut  again  !  I  go  back  to 
Africa  to  try  to  make  an  open  path  for  commerce 
and  Christianity  ;  do  you  carry  out  the  work  which 
I  have  begun  ;  I  leave  it  with  you." 

"An  open  path  for  commerce  and  Christianity" 
was  that  for  which  these  great  pioneers  lived  and 
died,  one  in  purpose  with  the  men  who  laid  down 
their  lives  for  Uganda,  the  chief  connecting  link 
between  the  north  and  south  of  the  new  World's 
highway. 

It  is  not  for  naught  that  Mackay  pleaded  for 
helpers  to  help  to  bridge  the  chasm  between 
civilization  and  savagery,  that  Hannington  lost  his 
life  ere  he  reached  Uganda,  furnishing  by  his  death 
a  trumpet  call  to  the  Church,  more  eloquent  even 
than  his  life,  or  that  Pilkington  gave  to  the  Uganda 
nation  a  completed  Bible,  in  itself  the  best  bridge 
from  heathenism  to  Christianity.  These  African 
graves  do  not  breathe  to  us  the  language  of  despair, 
keenly  though  we  feel  the  loss  of  leaders  such  as 
these,  are  they  not  an  inspiration  to  others  to  follow 
in  their  steps  ?  There  has  been  some  talk  of  revenge 
as  our  brave  soldiers  step  by  step  approached 
Khartum,  and  when  the  great  victory  of  Omdurman 
was  an  accomplished  fact  we  have  been  told  that 
Gordon  is  avenged.  But  is  it  so  ?  Gordon's  death 
calls  for  something  more  than  that,  above  all  it  is  a 
challenge     to     Christian    England     to    carry    the 


THE    FUTURE   OF   UGANDA.  289 

blessings  of  Christianity  thoughout  that  land  which 
has  been  desolated  by  the  scourge  of  Muslim 
fanaticism.  How,  then,  is  this  to  be  done  ?  The 
answer  which  Pilkington  would  have  given  may,  we 
think,  be  summed  up  in  one  word,  "  Uganda." 

It  has  ever  been  the  aim  of  British  administrators 
to  employ  the  peoples  of  savage  or  semi-civilized 
lands  to  be  the  chief  agents  in  the  development  of 
their  own  countr}^  and  to  this  fact  may  largely  be 
attributed  the  success  of  British  colonisation.  In 
no  part  of  the  world  is  this  so  important  as  in 
Central  Africa.  Whatever  is  to  be  done  there  must 
be  done  by  the  native  races,  and  our  first  efforts 
should  therefore  be  directed  to  learning  the  native 
languages,  studying  the  characteristics  of  different 
peoples,  bringing  to  the  front  those  who  are  qualified 
to  be  the  leaders  of  others,  rather  than  attempting 
to  do  all  b}'  European  agency. 

Pilkington  realised  this  most  fully,  and  in  his 
plans  for  the  development  of  the  Uganda  Mission, 
he  regarded  Uganda  and  its  people  as  the  great 
means  by  which  East  Central  Africa  at  least  should 
be  evangelised. 

With  this  in  view  he  put  forward  what  he  called 
"  A  three  years'  enterprise  in  Central  Africa,"  to 
correspond  to  the  celebration  of  the  last  three  years 
of  the  first  century  of  the  Church  Missionary 
Society  all  over  the  world. 

In  this  he  said  : — 

"  The  Church  Missionary  Society  is  entering  on  a 
Three  Years'  Enterprise.  The  key-note  is  Exten- 
sion. New  supplies  of  men  and  means,  it  is  hoped, 
u 


290  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA, 

will  be  forthcoming.  How  are  they  to  be  applied 
to  the  best  advantage  ?     May  God  Himself  guide  ! 

With  great  diffidence,  conscious  as  he  is  of  only 
partial  knowledge  of  the  World's  needs,  and 
conscious  also  of  the  bias  that  must  attend  all 
strong  affections ;  with  great  diffidence,  therefore, 
but  none  the  less  with  great  earnestness,  does  the 
writer  put  forward  a  Three  Years'  Enterprise  for 
Central  Africa,  asking  for  it  the  calm,  and  balanced, 
and  prayerful  consideration  of  all  friends  of  the 
Society  and  especially  of  those  who  directly  control 
its  operations.  Need  it  be  said  that  the  basis  of 
operations  for  this  proposed  enterprise  is  Uganda  ? 

Half  of  the  great  country  of  Unyoro  is  ready  to 
receive  evangelists  ;  there  are  already  under  instruc- 
tion a  good  many  hundreds  of  its  inhabitants  ; 
through  this  country,  and  by  means  of  its  people, 
lies  the  road  to  the  Nile  valley  and  to  the  great 
forest.  Kavirondo  is  open,  Usukuma  is  open, 
Karagwe  is  open,  Koki  is  open.  Nkole  and  Ukedi 
are  within  reach  and  touch,  though  not  absolutely 
open  at  present.  In  fact,  for  two  hundred  miles  east, 
south  and  west  from  Mengo,  the  country  lies,  for 
the  most  part,  wide  open  to  the  Gospel ;  to  the  north, 
seventy  or  a  hundred  miles  is  open.  The  country 
is  healthy  ;  native  help  is  available  as  it  is  nowhere 
else  in  the  world ;  the  desire  for  reading  has  already 
been  carried  to  some  of  the  extreme  points  within 
this  radius ;  in  language,  and  sentiment,  and  mode 
of  life,  the  whole  region  is  closely  knit  together  ;  in 
a  word,  there  is  good  reason  to  hope  that,  as  far  as 
local  conditions  are  concerned,  a  circle,  including 


THE    FUTURE   OF   UGANDA.  291 

within  its  radius  of  two  hundred  miles  the  three 
lakes,  the  Albert,  Albert  Edward,  and  the  Victoria, 
an  area  (excluding  the  lakes)  of  nearly  100,000 
square  miles,  might  be  fully  occupied,  if  not 
evangelised,  within  three  years'  time  ! 

How  would  this  enormous  extension  —  multi- 
plying by  ten  at  least  the  present  area  of  occupied 
territory — be  undertaken  ? 

Wanted,  first,  European  leaders  for  bands  of 
native  evangelists.  The  province  of  Kyagwe,  as 
already  mentioned,  more  than  2,000  square  miles, 
is  being  evangelised  by  means  of  two  Europeans  at 
the  central  station,  directing  the  work  of  seventy 
or  a  hundred  native  helpers.  At  the  same  rate,  a 
hundred  European  Missionaries  would  be  needed 
to  lead  and  organise  the  evangelisation  of  this  vast 
circle.     Will  they  not  be  forthcoming  ? 

Wanted,  secondly,  an  army  of  native  evangelists  ; 
it  is  believed  that  the  raw  material  for  these  would 
be  forthcoming,  but  in  order  to  train  them  efficiently, 
a  few  more  European  missionaries  are  needed. 

Wanted,  thirdly,  about  ten  men  to  master  the 
native  languages,  and  translate  into  them. 

Wanted,  in  all,  from  home,  one  hundred 
additional  men  missionaries  and  some  lady  mis- 
sionaries, full  of  the  Holy  Ghost. 

Is  this  too  large  a  demand  ? 

Even  judging  by  the  irrational  method  of  a 
count  of  heads,  it  is  not  much  ;  these  men  are  not 
needed  for  Uganda,  not  even  for  this  circle  of  two 
hundred  miles  only  ;  we  plead  for  the  millions  upon 
millions  of  souls   in  Central  Africa ;   and  we  only 


292  PILKIXGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

ask  for  a  paltry  one  hundred  missionaries.  Area 
and  population  alike  call  for  large  reinforcements  in 
Central  Africa. 

But  there  is  another  method,  a  rational  one,  of 
distributing  missionary  workers,  and  that  is,  so  to 
dispose  of  available  forces  as  to  bring  in  the  greatest 
return  in  the  end. 

Take  an  illustration  :  There  are  two  places  that 
may  be  occupied.  Let  us  call  them  A  and  B.  To 
one  or  both  of  these,  six  missionaries  are  to  be  sent. 
At  A,  there  is  a  great  desire  for  instruction  and  a 
missionar}'  spirit  among  the  converted.  At  B,  there 
are  practically  no  converts  and  no  missionar}'  spirit ; 
in  fact,  the  Holy  Spirit  is  at  work  at  A  but  not  at  B. 
Although  the  population  of  B  is  ten  times  that  of  A, 
the  irrational,  but  plausible,  method  is  adopted,  and 
five  are  sent  to  B,  and  only  one  to  A,  and  even  so 
complaints  are  made  that  A  is  receiving  more  than 
its  fair  share  of  workers. 

After  ten  years,  little  or  no  impression  has  been 
made  at  B  ;  the  five  workers  are  discouraged  and 
depressed,  and  their  depression  has  acted  on  the 
Church  at  home.  At  A  the  work  has  progressed, 
but  the  workers  cannot  keep  pace  with  the  growing 
need ;  and  the  missionary  enthusiam,  not  having 
found  any  adequate  outlet,  has  decreased.  But  let 
the  other  method  be  adopted,  and  let  all  the  six  be 
be  sent  to  A,  in  spite  of  short-sighted  objections. 
In  five  years,  as  one  result  of  their  work,  a  body  of 
twenty  well-trained  native  evangelists  invade  B  ;  by 
the  end  of  another  five  years  the  fire  of  God  has 
been  transferred  to  the  second  centre.     The  Church 


THE   FUTURE   OF    UGANDA.  293 

at  home  and  the  Church  abroad  aHke  are  encouraged 
and  strengthened  in  faith. 

But  this  is  a  digression. 

How  would  our  supposed  reinforcement  be  em- 
ployed ? 

Each  fresh  missionary  would  spend  a  year  or 
more  at  first  in  Uganda  ;  he  would  learn  the  Luganda 
language,  become  acquainted  with  native  ways  of 
thought  (the  same  through  all  that  region),  gather 
round  him  a  few  native  helpers,  and  open  communi- 
cations across  the  missionary  frontier.  To  do  this  he 
would  most  probably  settle  down  at  the  furthest 
C.M.S.  station  in  the  direction  of  his  proposed  ad- 
vance ;  for  instance,  for  Central  Unyoro,  Wadelai, 
and  the  Nile  \' alley,  he  would  proceed  at  first  to 
Kinakulya ;  for  the  west  and  the  Great  Forest,  to 
Toro ;  for  the  south,  to  Koki ;  for  the  east  and 
south-east,  to  Luba's  or  Mumia's  ;  for  the  north- 
east, to  Xamuyonjo's.  When  the  time  appeared  ripe, 
he  would  advance  with  his  chosen  helpers  across 
the  border,  and  open  a  tentative  station  some  fifty 
miles  beyond  what  had  till  then  been  our  outpost  ; 
this  new  station  would  in  turn  become  a  basis  from 
which  to  advance  still  further,  as  fresh  reinforcements 
came  out.  There  can  be  little  doubt  that  in  places, 
more  numerous  than  we  could  even  wish  to  occupy 
by  Europeans,  the  natives  would  extend  a  welcome, 
and  in  most  cases  build  a  native  house  for  the  mis- 
sionary, and  supply  him  with  native  food. 

Consider      (i.)      the     geographical      position     of 
Uganda. 

(ii.)  The  present  open  doors. 


294  PiLKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

(iii.)  The  construction  of  a  railway. 

(iv.)  The  suitability  of  the  natives  for  evangelistic 
work. 

(v.)  Their  desire  to  engage  in  it. 

(vi.)  Their  preparation  by  contact  with  two  typical 
forms  of  perversions  of  Scripture  truth. 

(vii.)  Their  former  leading  position  in  the  Lake 
Region. 

(viii.)  The  past  marvellous  history  of  the  country. 

(ix.)  The  abundant  '  seed  of  the  Church  '  sown 
(martyrs,  Bishop  Hannington,  Mackay,  and  many 
others). 

Are  not  all  these  leading  up  to  a  future  worthy  of 
such  a  past  ?  " 

Pilkington,  as  will  be  seen  by  much  that  has  been 
already  said,  was  a  firm  believer  in  the  evangelisation 
of  Africa  by  Africans,  and  in  support  of  this  he 
furnishes  us  with  the  following  contrasts  : — 

"  An  European  is  on  a  journey  in  Central  Africa: 
how  laboriously  he  trudges  along,  followed  by  a  train 
of  porters,  who  carry  his  tent,  his  clothing,  his  camp 
bed  and  bedding,  his  cups,  plates,  knives  and  forks, 
his  box  of  provisions,  his  cooking  utensils,  his  chair 
and  table  ;  notice  how  eagerly  he  avails  himself  of 
the  shade  of  any  tree  that  he  is  fortunate  enough  to 
find  at  his  mid-day  halting-place ;  see  him  carried 
over  that  great  papyrus  swamp,  half  a  mile  broad, 
on  the  shoulders  of  the  strongest  of  his  porters, 
themselves  up  to  the  chest  in  water.  Observe  the 
elaborate  preparations  for  his  meal ;  the  tent  pitched, 
the  table  laid,  the  cloth  spread  on  it,  the  plates,  the 
tea,  the  meat,  the  potatoes,  the  rice ;  and  when  all 


THE    FUTURE   OF    UGANDA.  295 

is  done,  it  seems  to  him  a  rough  and  hard  life, 
calculated  to  produce  fever,  or  send  him  home, 
prematurely  worn  out,  to  a  more  congenial  climate 
and  surroundings. 

A  Muganda  is  on  a  journey  :  how  gaily  he  trots 
along;  his  head,  it  may  be  bare,  it  may  be  covered 
with  a  turban  of  cloth  or  bark-cloth,  not  for  fear  of 
the  sun  so  much  as  for  appearance  sake ;  or  perhaps 
he  is  carrying  all  his  luggage  on  a  plantain  leaf, 
twisted  in  turban  shape,  on  his  head.  It  is  twelve 
o'clock  ;  he  has  had  no  food  since  the  previous 
evening ;  but  he  thinks  nothing  of  that — he  is  pre- 
pared to  march  on,  if  need  be,  till  sundown,  fasting; 
but  probably  he  will  turn  into  one  of  the  houses  in 
the  garden  just  ahead,  and  make  an  ample  meal  of 
steamed  plantains  or  potatoes.  He  needs  no  table, 
table-cloth,  or  plates;  the  plaintain  leaves  which 
have  helped  to  cook  the  meal,  pressed  down  in  the 
mouth  of  the  huge  earthen  cooking  pot  to  keep  the 
steam  in,  will  supply  the  place  of  all  these  three 
European  necessities.  Spread  on  the  grass-covered 
lioor,  they  receive  the  mass  of  steamed  and  steaming 
plantains  ;  and  the  guests  sit  round,  on  mats  if  they 
have  them  ;  and  the  master  of  the  ceremonies  divides 
the  huge  lump  into  chunks  for  each  guest,  using  his 
hand,  covered  with  a  piece  of  plantain  leaf,  as  a 
carving  knife :  and  so  they  fall  to,  with  their  fingers 
for  knives  and  forks  ;  they  have  previously  carefully 
washed  their  hands  with  plantain  fibre  or  with 
water.  And  so  the  lump  disappears,  as  bit  by  bit 
they  roll  it  in  their  hands,  push  in  their  right  thumbs 
to  make  a  sort  of  spoon,  and  dip  it  in  the  gra\y  (if 


^96  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

they  have  any),  and  so  convey  it  to  their  mouths. 
The  meal  done,  the  hands  are  washed  again ;  and 
off  goes  our  traveller,  prepared  to  travel,  should  that 
prove  necessary,  for  another  twenty-four  hours  with- 
out any  further  meal,  though  he  will  be  disappointed 
if  he  does  not  reach  some  hospitable  roof  that 
evening  where  similar  refreshment  will  be  provided. 
When  night  comes,  no  elaborate  preparations  are 
necessary  ;  no  camp  bed,  no  mosquito  net,  he  simply 
undoes  his  pack,  takes  out  his  mat,  lies  down  on  it, 
and,  wrapping  himself  up,  head  and  all,  in  a  bark- 
cloth,  he  sleeps  till  day-break.  Is  it  surprising  if  we 
sometimes  feel  inclined  to  envy  their  simple  lives  ? 

Another  picture:  an  European  is  teaching  a 
class ;  how  slowly  come  his  words,  how  painfully 
sometimes  ;  how  he  struggles  to  express  himself ! 
Do  you  see  the  lurking  smile  on  those  faces  that 
good  manners  would  fain  hide  ? — but  the  struggle  is 
a  hard  one ;  some  mispronunciation,  some  solecism, 
some  mistake  has  provoked  it.  How  flat  some  of 
his  illustrations  seem  to  fall  !  And  yet  this  is  not 
some  young  missionary  in  his  first  attempt ;  for 
years  he  has  endeavoured  to  master  the  native 
language,  and  not  without  success ;  but  it  is  a 
partial  success  only. 

Beside  this  class  is  another,  taught  by  a 
native.  How  the  words  flow  from  his  lips ;  how 
quickly  question  and  answer  and  exposition  follow 
one  another  !  If  there  is  a  smile,  it  is  at  some  apt 
illustration  or  some  apposite  proverb  :  '  Does  the 
monkey  decide  forest  cases  ?  '  z.c,  '  Is  it  reasonable 
to  appeal  to  an  umpire  who  has  a  personal  interest 


THE    FUTURE   OF   UGANDA.  297 

in  the  point  at  issue  ? '  or  another  of  that  infinite 
store.  Africa  must  be  evangelised  by  Africans  ; 
surely  this  is  the  obvious  moral  that  we  are  forced 
to  drav^\ 

Africans  are  fitted  for  the  work,  because  they  are 
better  adapted  to  the  country.  Especially  are  the\- 
better  travellers  than  Europeans.  Then  they  arc 
better  adapted  by  their  knowledge  of  the  language 
and  native  modes  of  thought.  An  illustration  which 
appeals  to  a  European  need  not  impress  a  native, 
and  vice  versa.  Arguments  which  are  conclusive  to 
us  prove  nothing  to  a  native,  and  again  vice  versa. 
Most  important  of  all,  it  is  impossible,  too,  in  this 
case,  to  attribute  the  effects  of  the  grace  of  God  in 
his  life  to  a  white  skin  or  to  his  bringing  up.  A 
native  can  say  to  a  native  with  a  cogency  that  no 
European's  words  can  have,  '  The  Lord  and  Saviour 
who  saved  and  saves  me,  can  save  you  too.' 

Where  are  Africa's  evangelists  ?  God  must 
have  them  somewhere.  Let  us  find  them,  and  train 
them,  and  use  them.  The  promise  of  the  fulness  of 
the  Spirit  is  as  much  for  the  native  as  for  the 
European,  for  the  promise  is  '  to  all  that  are  afar  off, 
even  as  many  as  the  Lord  our  God  shall  call.'  " 

But  there  is  another  contrast  to  which  he  would 
draw  our  attention,  which  shows  to  us  the  wonderful 
change  which  the  Gospel  has  wrought  in  Uganda. 
He  writes : — 

''  The  work  that  is  going  on  in  Uganda  is  mainly 
carried  on  by  natives ;  the  Sunday  services,  the 
preaching,  the  teaching,  all  are  done  by  men  who 
once  were  heathen.     Do  you  know  what  that  word 


298  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

means  ?  Ask  old  Isaiah,  *  the  good-natured  giant,' 
how  three  hundred  brothers  and  cousins  of  the  king 
were  penned  within  the  narrow  compass  of  the  dyke, 
that  still  may  be  seen  by  the  roadside  some  two  or 
three  miles  north  of  Mengo,  and  left  there  by  their 
brother's  orders  to  starve  to  death,  a  six  days'  misery 
of  nameless  horrors. 

*0h,  a  goat  I  was  herding  got  lost,  and  so 
my  master  cut  off  my  ear' — so  a  boy  of  fifteen 
answers,  as  if  it  w^ere  the  most  natural  thing  in 
the  world,  when  you  ask  him  how  he  became  so 
mutilated. 

Ask  Sezi,  jovial  Sezi,  in  spite  of  the  loss  of  both 
his  eyes,  who  it  was  that  gouged  them  out,  and 
why  ?  Ask  any  of  our  people  what  Heathenism 
means  ;  for  they  have  seen  and  can  tell  you  ;  they 
know  (better  than  many  a  wiseacre  at  home)  what 
Christless  humanity  (black  or  white)  is  and  always 
will  be,  when  the  salt  taken  away  :  it  is  left  to  itself, 
and  relapses  to  its  native  corruption — inevitable 
consequence ! 

In  those  days,  if  some  unfortunate  courtier 
accidentally  trod  upon  the  king's  mat,  death  was 
the  sure  penalty. 

In  those  days,  none  dared  raise  a  protest  when 
the  king,  to  maintain  his  royal  dignity,  commanded 
the  slaughter  of  all  who  happened  to  be  standing  on 
his  right  hand  or  on  his  left ;  or  of  all  whom  a  band, 
sent  for  the  purpose,  should  meet  in  the  streets. 
*  Why  kill  the  innocent  ?  '  we  innocently  ask. 
Their  innocence  is  their  doom.  '  If  I  only  kill  the 
guilty,'  so  would  the  king  have  replied,  '  the  innocent 


THE   FUTURE   OF   UGANDA,  299 

will  not  respect  me.'      They  have  no  word  in  their 
language  for  respect,  except  fear. 

In  those  days,  no  protest  was  heard  when  women 
and  children  were  sold  into  the  hopeless  misery  of 
Arab  slavery.  Now,  even  domestic  slavery  has  been 
abolished,  at  least,  its  legal  status.  And  in  this 
matter  the  Protestant  chiefs  were  the  movers  and 
imitators,  so  much  so  that  Sir  Gerald  Portal,  who 
was  in  the  country  at  the  time,  considered  that 
perhaps  their  movement  was  premature.  To-day  it 
is  the  law  of  the  land  that  any  slave  may  claim  his 
or  her  freedom,  and  that  it  must  be  granted  as  a 
matter  of  course. 

Not  that  the  Waganda  had  no  religion  of  their 
own.  They  were  very  religious  ;  they  worshipped 
and  propitiated  the  spirits  of  ancestors.  These  spirits 
were  believed  to  possess  mediums,  who  uttered 
oracular  sayings  with  foaming  at  the  mouth,  a  close 
reproduction  of  the  Delphic  prophecies.  There  was 
the  priest,  too,  who  acted  as  go-between  for  the 
inquirer  and  the  spirit-possessed  medium.  Many  of 
the  gardens  of  the  country  were  set  aside  for  these 
priests  ;  hence  their  bitter  opposition  to  the  Gospel, 
continued  to  this  day. 

Once  a  man  professed  to  be  possessed  by  the 
spirit  of  the  King  Suna's  dead  dog,  and  went  about 
yelping.  By  the  king's  orders,  a  fine  house  was  built 
for  him,  and  he  lived  in  ease  and  luxury  all  his  life  ! 

Then  charms  were  worn,  and  are  still  worn, 
and  implicitly  believed  in.  Horns  (either  actual 
horns  or  imitations  in  pottcTv)  were  tilled  with 
various  substances,  supposed  to  have  magical  powers 


^  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

— for  instance,  blood  or  earth — and  sold  as  certain 
remedies  for  various  diseases. 

In  old  days,  woman  was  but  a  beast  of  burden  ; 
how  wonderful  to  see  her  now  in  many  places  begin 
to  take  her  rightful  place  by  man's  side  !  It  will  be 
a  gradual  work — the  elevation  of  woman  ;  but  we  do 
see  it  already  proceeding.  The  arri\al  of  the  live 
ladies  who  accompanied  Bishop  Tucker  last  autumn 
will,  no  doubt,  greatly  accelerate  it.  Cultivation  is 
woman's  work  in  Uganda,  and  too  often  the  heaviest 
work  is  still  left  to  her.  The  men  are  lazy  ;  the 
Gospel  not  only  shows  them  the  duty  and  nobility 
of  work,  but  also  provides  them  with  motives  for 
working. 

But  it  is  in  individual  lives  that  the  greatest  and 
most  marked  change  is  apparent.  A  slave  of  drink, 
a  big  chief,  was  converted.  He  had  been  baptized 
long  before,  but  had  no  strength  to  conquer  this 
vice  ;  he  had  often  prayed  with  one  of  the  mission- 
aries that  he  might  be  saved  from  this  curse  ;  he  had 
even  prayed  with  tears  ;  the  will  was  there,  but  not 
the  power.  He  was  converted,  and  was  enabled  to 
win  the  victory. 

A  Mohammedan  began  reading  our  books :  he 
was  convinced  of  their  truth,  and  gave  up  Moham- 
medanism ;  a  month  later,  so  he  told  us,  he 
accepted  God's  gift  of  eternal  life.  '  In  old  days,' 
he  said  one  day,  '  I  was  like  a  bird  trying  to  fly 
without  wings  ;  I  thought  my  fastings,  my  prayers, 
and  ceremonies  would  save  me.  I  now  know  that 
Christ  is  the  way.' 

Another,  a  teacher,  told  how,  long  ago,  when  he 


THE    FUTURE   OF   UGANDA.  301 

first  became  a  nominal  Christian,  he  had  hoped  to 
be  saved  by  his  works ;  as  he  read  God's  Word  he 
found  this  would  not  do,  and  then  he  hoped  he 
would  be  saved  by  a  combination  of  faith  and  works. 
'  But  now  I  know  that  Christ  is  all.'  Many  have 
given  up  the  vicious  habit  of  smoking  Indian  hemp ; 
the  Christian  Church  will  not  permit  any  hemp 
smoker  to  be  baptized,  so  utterly  inconsistent  is  it 
considered. 

Could  you  come  and  see  some  Sunday  morning 
while  men  and  women,  brought  up  as  heathen, 
gather  round  the  Lord's  table,  and  reverently  eat 
and  drink  those  '  pledges  of  His  love,'  there  would 
be  a  joyful  echo  in  your  ears  of  the  Apostle's 
words — '  These  have  been  washed,  these  have  been 
sanctified,  these  have  been  justified  in  the  name  of 
the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  and  by  the  Spirit  of  our 
God  !  '" 


CHAPTER    XVII. 


BY    BICYCLE    TO    UGANDA. 


Owing  to  the  length  of  time  occupied  in  carrying 
his  work  through  the  Press,  Pilkington  did  not 
leave  England  until  two  months  after  the  party 
with  whom  he  expected  to  travel  to  Uganda.  He, 
however,  managed  to  reach  Frere  Town  in  time  to 
accompany  them,  as  the  following  letter  indicates :— = 

Frere  Town, 

Friday,  27th  November,  1896. 

I  arrived,  after  a  delightful  voyage,  on  Wednes- 
day, to  find  the  party  still  here,  hoping  to  start 
to-day.  We  are  now  hoping  to  start  to-morrow. 
Goods,  including  bike,  here,  all  right.  Europeans 
and  Waganda  boys  all  well,  so  there  is  much  to 
thank  God  for.  .  .  . 

We  are  really  to  start,  it  seems,  to-morrow 
morning — it  is  now  nine  p.m.,  so  I  suppose  we 
shall. 

I  rode  up  and  down  the  road  here  on  my  bike. 
A  sort  of  light  case,  easily  detachable,  has  been 
made  for  it ;    I  propose  to  ride  it  where   possible. 

There  has  been  much  rain  lately,  and  so  the  dry 
part  of  road  near  the  coast  ought  to  be  much  better 
than  usual." 


BY   BICYCLE  TO   UGANDA,  303 

The  early  stages  of  the  journey  are  described  in  a 
letter  to  Mr.  G.  A.  King,  dated : — 

"  Kibwezi 

(190  miles  from  Mombasa), 

Monday,  14th  December,  1896. 

I  came  on  here  last  Friday  on  my  bike  from 
Ndi  (called  seventy-eight  miles,  but  eighty-one  and 
seven-eights  by  my  cyclometer).  The  caravan, 
which  I  propose  to  meet  to-morrow  about  half-way 
and  come  back  with  it,  will  probably  be  here  on 
Friday,  perhaps  Thursday.  I  started  at  5.5  a.m., 
and  got  here,  not  much  fagged,  at  3.55  p.m. — the 
first  time,  I  suppose,  anyone,  even  a  native,  has 
come  from  Ndi  to  Kibwezi  in  one  day. 

I  came  on  to  try  to  settle  a  serious  difficulty 
about  some  of  our  porters  who  are  claimed  by  a 
trader.  I  have  every  confidence  that  it  will  be  all 
right  now ;  no  thanks  to  me  and  my  bike,  for  I 
found  it  settled  already,  I  may  say,  when  I  got  here, 
and  no  wonder,  for  we  have  made  it  a  matter  of 
special  prayer  for  a  fortnight  past.  This  is  the 
second  remarkable,  and  from  the  merely  human 
side,  most  unlooked-for  removal  of  difficulties  in 
answer  to  prayer,  since  I  reached  Mombasa  in  the 
nick  of  time   on    the    25th  to  start    on    the   28th  ! 

We  ha\'e  had  a  delightful  journey — especially 
we  bicyclists  ;  when  travelling  with  the  caravan,  we 
reach  our  camping-place,  though  we  start  last,  two 
hours  before  the  rest,  generally  before  eight  a.m., 
and  so  entirely  avoid  the  sun.  We  expect  to  leave 
this   day   week;   we    should   be   at    Nzawi,    where 


304  PILKIKGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

are  some  American  Missionaries,  for  Christmas." 
Having  once  tasted  the  joys,  not  unmingled  with 
sorrows,  of  bicychng  in  Central  Africa,  he  determined 
to  go  on  ahead,  and  our  next  letter,  reproduced  as  it 
was  written  on  the  journey,  gives  us  his  itinerary  to 
the  borders  of  Busoga  ;  it  is  instructive  for  intending 
bicyclists  in  Central  Africa. 

•'  Kikuyu, 

Christmas  Eve,  1896. 
Here  I  am  at  Kikuyu,  about  a  hundred  miles,  I  sup- 
pose, ahead  of  our  caravan.  I  came  on  to  fetch  Mr. 
Snowden,  of  the  Railway,  who  was  here  till  to-day, 
because  his  wife,  who  is  travelling  with  our  caravan, 
is,  or  was,  seriously  ill.  I  left  her  with  the  rest  at 
Kibwezi.  I  shall  carry  this  letter  in  my  pocket  (for 
having  come  thus  far,  I  shall,  if  practicable,  go  on  to 
Uganda),  and  give  it  to  the  down  mail  men  when  I 
meet  them,  and  so  you  will  have  the  latest  news  of 
my  movements.  I  have  come  on  very  successfully, 
a  few  punctures,  etc.,  and  delays,  and  bad  bits  of 
road,  but  neither  I  nor  the  bike  are  any  the  worse  ; 
and  now  I  am  in  this  splendid  healthy  country. 

Sunday,  3rd  January,  1897.  — Nandi  Station.  I 
arrived  here  the  day  before  yesterday,  Friday  ; 
and  so  am  now  within  sixty  miles  of  Mumia's  in 
Kavirondo,  which  is  go  miles  from  our  station  at 
Luba's,  which  is  60  miles  from  Mengo.  The 
whole  journey  from  this  on  is  inhabited,  and 
so,  thank  God,  the  worst  part  of  my  journey  is 
over.  I  propose  going  on  to-morrow  to  Mumia's, 
if  possible  ;  if  not,  half  way. 


BY   BICYCLE   TO    UGANDA.  305 

From  Kibwezi  (from  which  I  started  a  fortnight 
a^o)  to  this  place  is  about  330  miles,  most  of  it 
desert  and  full  of  wild  beasts  ;  from  here  to  Mengo 
is  200  miles  of  friendly  country. 

Let  me  give  you  my  itinerary  : — 
Sunday,   20th  December. — Kibwezi  to   Nzawi,   57 j 
miles,  only  half  the  road  rideable  ;  arrived  5.30 
p.m. 
Monday,  21st. — Kilungu,  10  miles,  fearful  road. 
Tuesday,  22nd. — Machakos,  37  miles,  fearful  road. 
Wednesday,    23rd.  —  To    Kikuyu,    47    miles,    good 
road  ;  2^  hours  delay  owing  to  tyre  ;  arrived  6 
p.m. 
Thursday,  24th. — Rested. 

Friday,  25th. — To  Naivasha,  47  miles ;   tyre  broke 
down  three  times  ;   should  have  been  there  2 
p.m.,  got  there  5.30  p.m.,  having  had  to  ride 
on  deflated  tyre,  or  should  have  been  benighted  ; 
tyre  spoiled.     I   had  to  go  on  through  Christ- 
mas Day,  because  I  knew^  I  should  have  to  go 
on  with   mail  men,  who  had  left    Kikuyu    on 
Christmas  Eve.       They  reached    Naivasha  on 
Saturday,  and  so  I  had  to  start  on  Sunday. 
Saturday,  26th. — Rested  ;  taiiea  to  mend  tyre. 
Sunday,   27th. — \\'ent   on   with   mail   men,   sho\ing 
bike,    to    Kambi    ya   Mbaruk,    29   miles  :    hard 
work. 
Monday,    28th.  —  To    Kambi    }a    moto,    30    miles 

through  grass  5ft.  high  ;  fearful  day. 
Tuesday,  29th. — To   Ravine,  25   miles  ;    bad  road. 
Here  Mr.  Jackson  with  infinite  kindness  put  on 
rope  and  raw  hide  on  hind  wheel  as  substitute 


306  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA. 

for  tyre,  and  gave  me  provisions  for  the  road. 
At  all  the  other  stations,  Nzawi  and  Kilungu, 
the  American  Missionaries ;  at  Machakos,  Ains- 
worth  and  De  Hinde ;  at  Kikuyu,  Hall  and 
others ;  at  Naivasha,  Major  Smith ;  here  Dr. 
Macpherson,  have  been  kinder  even  than  I 
could  have  expected. 

Wednesday,  30th. — To  Mianzini,  18  miles;  bad 
road  ;  had  to  shove  bike  nearly  all  the  way. 

Thursday,  31st. — To  Chini  ya  kihma,  24  miles  ; 
shoved  bike  nearly  all  the  way,  but  in  riding  one 
very  rough  down  hill  piece  cracked  my  seat 
pillar — not  a  very  serious  damage ;  when  it 
breaks  through,  the  longer  bit  of  it  will  do  very 
well.  After  getting  into  camp,  had  a  nasty  bit 
of  fever,  which  lasted  till  I  got  here. 

Friday,  ist  January,  1897. — Came  on  here  with 
some  difficulty,  16  miles,  pushing  my  bike 
because  of  the  cracked  seat,  which  I  propose  to 
repair  here  with  wire  pro.  tern. 

Saturday,  2nd. — Rested  and  bound  my  seat  pillar 
with  Dr.  Macpherson's  kind  help.  Recovered 
from  fever.     So  glad  of  a  rest  again. 

Sunday,  3rd. — Rested  and  wrote  this  letter,  which 
I  propose  to  give  to  the  down  mail  men.  I  met 
the  other  down  mail  the  day  I  left  Kikuyu,  just 

after   the   final    explosion     (E knows    the 

sound)  which  convinced  me  that  my  hind  tyre 
would  carry  me  no  further.  It  was  1.20  p.m., 
and  I  was  about  20  miles  from  Naivasha,  and 
so  I  had  no  wish  to  alarm  you  by  writing  a 
letter   under    such    circumstances  ;    besides,  it 


BY    BICYCLE   TO    UGANDA.  307 

would  have  taken  too  much  precious  time.  It 
has  been  most  wonderful  how  accidents, 
punctures,  etc.,  have  occurred  so  as  to  let  me 
reach  each  station  by  sundown  ;  and  how,  in 
spite  of  it  all,  it  has  been  possible  to  come 
steadil}'  on  :  e.g.,  had  the  tyre  given  way  ten 
miles  before,  on  Christmas  day,  I  don't  know 
what  would  have  happened.  Had  I  waited  at 
Kikuyu  for  Christmas  I  could  not  have  gone  on 
from  Naivasha.  Had  I  had  fever  on  any  other 
of  the  six  days  from  Naivasha  here,  I  should 
have  failed  to  get  here  with  the  mail  men,  and 
could  not  have  come  on  alone.  The  mail  men 
left  this  yesterday  ;  I  can  now  go  on  alone,  and 
it  doesn't  matter  whether  I  catch  them  up  or 
not.  The  bicycle  goes  fairly  well  on  the  rope 
tyre  ;  it  is  down  hill  from  here  to  Mumia's, 
2,000  feet  lower,  I  may  get  there  to-morrow. 

Now  I  will  finish  up  this  letter,  so  that  if  I  meet 
the  mail  men  suddenly,  I  need  only  add  the  place 
where  I  shall  be,  and  anything  else  of  importance  in 
a  pencil  postscript. 

I  had  one  accident  with  tyres  at  least  every  day 
from  Kibwezi  until  the  final  breakdown  ;  it's  the  hot 
sun. 

Tuesday,  5th  January.  —  Safe  at  Mumia's.  All 
well  ;  a  few  more  troubles  with  bike,  but  all 
right  again.  I  hope  to  reach  outskirts  of  Usoga 
to-morrow,  Luba's  probably  two  days  later ; 
then  two  da}S  to  Mengo. 

Your  Homocea  (the  box  you  gave  me  when  I  had 


308  PILKINGTON   OF   UGANDA, 

that  bad  fall)  has  been  invaluable  to  me  ;  my  left 
le^  has  been  a  little  sore,  but  is  healing  rapidly. 

I  came  yesterday  from  Nandi  to  a  place  where 
Corporal  Clark  of  the  road  party  is  camped,  bridg- 
ing a  river — 40  miles  or  so  ;  thence  here  only  20 
miles. 

I  leave  this  letter  here,  as  the  mail  men  leave 
Liiba's  to-day,  and  I  might  miss  them.  You  ought 
to  get  this  letter  in  two  months'  time." 

His  next  letter  is  from  Uganda: — 

"  Namirembe,  Mengo, 

28th  Jan.  1897. 

All's  well  that  ends  well — and  here  I  am,  having 
been  here  for  17  days,  all  well.  I  had  a  little  attack 
of  fever  a  few  days  ago,  but  I'm  all  right  again  now. 
I  got  here  on  the  nth  January,  having  been  23  days 
from  Kibwezi  where  I  left  the  caravan.  I  shall 
probably  find  that  I  gained  more  than  a  month  on 
the  caravan.  From  England  two  months  later — in 
Uganda  one  month  earlier  ! 

From  Ndi  here  (650  miles)  in  19  journeys — a 
record  for  Africa ;  of  course  I  waited  at  Kibwezi  and 
went  back  from  there  and  rested  elsewhere  ;  and  so 
I  did  not  travel  from  Ndi  here  in  19  days  ;  but  it 
took  me  only  19  days  of  actual  travelling. 

I  am  busy  getting  my  house  into  order,  though, 
of  course,  until  the  caravan  arrives  (I  expect  it  in 
another  12  or  15  days)  I  can't  do  much;  and  yet 
with  borrowed  and  native  things  I  am  beginning  to 
be  comfortable.  I  am  having  a  daily  class  in 
Luganda  for  the  ladies  especially,  but  the   others 


m   BICYCLE  To   UGANDA.  309 


come  too.     A  language  examination  is  to  be  held  as 
soon  as  possible. 

I  propose  to  devote  the  greater  part  of  ni}-  time 
for  a  year  or  two  to  the  language.  I  hope  to  start 
almost  at  once  on  the  exercise  book  I  used  to  speak 
about  when  at  home  ;  then  on  an  enlarged  and  im- 
proved grammar,  and  then  on  a  dictionar\- :  or 
rather  the  last  two  simultaneously.  I  am  looking 
forward  to  letters  from  home  :  they  ought  to  be 
here  in  ten  days  or  so. 

I  took  74  days  from  London  to  Mengo — a  record, 
I  think  ;  and  of  that  I  practically  spent  9  days  at 
Kibwezi — I  say  '  practically,'  because  I  actually 
rested  only  three,  and  then  went  half  wa\'  back  and 
returned.  I  hope  when  next  I  write  to  be  able  to 
say  that  my  bike  is  once  more  in  running  order.  I 
am  waiting  for  my  extra  tyres,  and  Rowling,  who  is 
very  good  at  mechanics,  to  help  me.  In  the  mean- 
time I  have  taken  it  all  to  pieces  except  the  centre 
crank.  I  have  taken  out  and  cleaned  no  fewer  than 
138  steel  balls  ;  this  is  the  number  the  machine  con 
tains  exclusive  of  said  bracket  which  has,  I  suppose 
20  more.  A  couple  of  the  spokes  of  the  hind  wheel 
have  given,  and  one  crank  is  twisted,  nothing  much 
wrong  besides  except  the  tyres. 

I've  not  had  time  to  look  round  yet,  so  I  say 
nothing  about  the  state  of  the  country,  but  externally 
all  is  well." 

The  impression  produced  upon  the  missionaries  in 
Mengo,  by  Pilkington's  sudden  appearance  among 
them,  is  thus  described  by  Miss  Chadwick. 

"  About  half  an  hour  before  tea  time  I  was  in  my 


310  PlLRlN^GtON   OP   UGANDA. 

room  ....  when  I  heard  a  strange  voice 
saluting  the  children  down  in  the  pathway  below% 
and  thought  '  No  one  from  Kampala  talks  Luganda 
like  that,  yet  it's  not  any  of  our  men  that  /  know.' 
A  minute  later  Tabitha  and  some  of  the  youngsters 
came  up  simply  yelling — Pilkingtoni  !  Pilkingtoni  ! ! 
and  we  at  first  declined  fiatly  to  believe  them. 
How  Mr.  Pilkington,  who,  when  we  last  heard, 
had  not  even  arrived  at  the  coast,  should  have 
passed  and  left  the  others  behind,  and  arrived  a 
month  sooner  than  we  expected  even  to  see  them, 
seemed  incomprehensible;  however,  by  the  aid  of 
his  bicycle,  he  had  done  so,  and  arrived  absolutely 
without  an  attendant,  with  nothing  but  a  tiny 
knapsack.    .    .     . 

A  rather  unshaven  man  in  borrowed  clothes 
decided!}'  too  small  for  him — he  beats  even  Mr.  Pike 
in  stature — and  about  as  sunburnt  as  a  man  can  be. 
Furthermore,  having  overtaken  the  mail  men,  some 
little  way  back,  he  had  stirred  them  up  to  such  effect 
that  we  got,  on  Monday,  the  letters  not  supposed  to 
be  due  till  Friday." 

Of  the  value  of  his  language  lessons,  already 
referred  to,  Miss  Chadwick  writes  : — 

"  I  have  already  written  to  mother  about  Mr. 
Pilkington's  unexpected  appearance  a  month  before 
w^e  were  expecting  any  of  them  ....  I  had 
always  heard  his  praises  sung  so  very  loudly  .  .  . 
but  after  a  week's  acquaintance  and  two  grammar 
lessons,  I  am  quite  ready  to  join  in  the  chorus  of 
admiration  of  a  truly  great  and  good  man.  As  for 
his  Luganda,  it  is  just  beautiful.     He  is  giving  us  a 


BY   BICYCLE   TO   UGANDA  311 

lesson  every  evening  at  6.30,  but  I  fear  it  will  last  all 
too  short  a  time." 

On  February  26th,  1897,  Pilkington  writes:  "  The 
rest  of  the  party  got  here  on  Monday,  the  15th,  live 
weeks  after  me,  having  come  across  the  lake  by 
steamer,  except  Baskerville,  Cook  and  Weathcrhead. 
The  latter  stayed  in  Usoga,  and  the  other  two  got 
here  on  the  19th,  a  week  ago. 

I  have  chiefly  been  engaged  in  getting  my  house 
in  order,  making  tables  and  shelves,  &c.,  and  getting 
boys,  and  teaching  them  something,  especially  to 
cook.  My  old  boys  have  got  married  most  of  them, 
or  are  going  to  be.  Talking  of  cooking,  an  exciting 
incident  has  just  happened.  A  bottle  of  barm  I  was 
making  has  burst  and  flown  all  over  the  room  in 
small  pieces,  but  no  harm  done.  Yesterday,  the 
corks  flew  out,  and  Hall  (who  is  staying  with  me, 
having  arrived  yesterday  from  the  islands)  and  I 
were  douched  with  barm  ;  but  I  didn't  expect  the 
bottle  itself  to  burst.  .  .  .  The  new  men  are 
scattering  day  by  day  to  their  various  destinations. 
I  am  glad  to  say  that  they  have  been  specially 
requested  to  devote  their  first  eight  months,  at  least, 
to  the  language. 

I  have  been  examining  some  of  those  who  have 
been  one  or  two  years  here.  Miss  Chadwick  has 
done  the  best  of  all  at  present,  and  Miss  Browne 
very  good.     Ireland  for  ever  !  " 

By  March  26th,  Mr.  Rowling's  assistance  had  been 
procured  for  the  unfortunate  bicycle,  and  a  letter  of 
that  date  describes  the  method  of  repair  :  "  My  time 
for  the  last  few  days  has  largely  been  taken  up  with 


312  PILKINGTON    OP   UGANDA. 

mending  my  bike,  or,  rather,  in  giving  Rowling  some 
feeble  assistance  in  so  doing.  He  has  made  a 
wonderful  job  of  it  :  soldered  and  riveted  a  brass 
plate  into  the  broken  rim,  mended  two  or  three 
spokes,  adding  a  piece  on  to  one  with  a  wire  nail,  put 
a  copper  plate  on  to  the  cogged  wheel  where  it  was 
cracked,  straightened  (and  is  going  to  harden  by 
heating  and  plunging  in  oil)  my  crank,  and,  most 
remarkable  of  all,  soldered  on  to  the  main  hub  a  tiny 
piece  of  steel,  so  that  the  loose  crank  now  fits 
perfectly.  He  has  also  strengthened  the  seat  pillar 
by  putting  into  it  a  piece  of  hard  wood,  tight  fitting. 
We  stripped  my  old  outside  tyre  of  the  rubber,  and 
put  it  on  with  the  new  one  (which,  to  our  horror, 
3'esterday,  we  found  a  size  too  large)  over  it ;  and  I 
have  this  morning  been  riding  about  Mengo  as 
comfortably  as  ever  on  it." 

Apparentl}-  the  tyres  did  not  last  very  long,  and  on 
April  loth  we  read  :  "  I  am  mending  my  tyres  with 
the  sap  of  a  native  rubber  tree,  called  '  mulemu,'  and 
I'm  inclined  to  think  it  is  going  to  prove  successful. 
It  takes  a  long  time  drying,  but  we  are  not  in  such  a 
terrible  hurry  in  Africa  as  you  are  at  home. 

I'm  hoping  to  go  over  to  Ngogwe  (Baskerville's 
Station)  on  it  for  a  mission  in  a  fortnight  or  three 
weeks'  time.  It  is  thirty-five  miles — a  nice  day's 
ride  in  this  countr}-. 

When  the  rains  are  over,  probably  in  May  or  June, 
I  hope  to  go  out  a  good  deal  through  the  country,  to 
try  to  iniprovu  the  organisation  of  the  teachers  and 
the  nati\e  church  generally." 

By  April  23rd,  he  was  convinced  that  "  pneumatic 


BY   BICYCLE   TO    UGANDA.  313 

tyres  wont  do  hero,"  and  adds,  ''  I  am  trying  to 
convert  mine  into  solid  ones  by  stuffinj;  the  outside 
cover  with  cotton  wool." 

The  solid  tyres  do  not  seem  to  have  been  a  ^^eat 
success,  but  much  later  on  in  the  year  he  writes  : 
"  My  bike  is  on  the  go  again.  Fresh  t\Tes  (pneumatic) 
have  come  by  post,  thanks  to  the  kindness  of  my 
friend  Mr.  G.  A.  King." 

With  regard  to  the  progress  of  the  work,  he  writes 
on  19th  May,  1897,  to  Mr.  Dowse  the  Vicar  of  the 
parish  who  had  adopted  him  as  their  own  mis- 
sionary:— 

"  The  increase  in  the  number  of  adherents  is  not 
going  on  as  it  was  two  or  three  years  ago.  Why  is 
that  ?  I  can't  answer,  of  course,  dogmatically,  but 
I  fancy  there  are  two  reasons.  The  greater  part  of 
the  country  has  now  been  e\'angelised,  or  those  who 
were  willing  to  become  readers  have  been  taught  a 
certain  amount ;  those  who  were  opposed  are  only 
coming  over  in  small  numbers.  Then,  again,  a 
considerable  number  who  began  reading  two  or  three 
years  ago,  but  were  really  ne\'er  converted,  have 
learnt  to  read,  and  ha\e  read  a  Gospel  or  two,  and 
then  have  got  tired  and  given  up  reading,  and  their 
example  is  deterring  others,  for  they  are  supposed 
to  know  all  about  Christianity,  and  themselves  so 
suppose,  and  yet  they  don't  think  it  worth  while  to 
persevere. 

These    remarks   apply    chiefly    to    Uganda    itself, 
and  not  to  the  surrounding  countries. 

We    are    in    great     difficulties    about     the    self- 
support  of  the  Native  Church.     I  fear  a  good  many 


314  PiLKlNGTON   OP   UGANDA. 

teachers  have  been  sent  out  too  hastily,  and  we 
shall  be  forced  to  recall  them.  But  I  trust  we 
shall  always  abide  by  the  principle  of  entire  self- 
support  ;  Waganda  teachers  supported  by  Uganda 
money,  and  by  that  alone,  whatever  happens.  I 
notice  a  considerable  growth  of  independence  in 
the  leading  teachers  and  Christians.  A  great  deal 
of  work  is  now  being  done  by  natives,  which  two 
years  ago  was  being  done,  and  only  could  be  done, 
by  Europeans.  There  is  a  large  district  between 
the  Capital  and  the  Lake,  which  is  now  in  the 
charge  of  Yairo,  who  is  in  priest's  orders;  very 
encouraging  reports  of  activity  and  really  indepen- 
dent life  have  lately  come  in.  We  are  just  going 
to  commit  another  district  to  native  charge,  the 
district  of  South  Bulemezi,  which  Buckley  is  leaving 
for  Toro,  to  take  the  place  of  our  dear  brother  Callis, 
who  has  just  been  taken  from  us.  We  hope  that 
this  will  prove  as  great  a  success  as  Yairo's  district 
seems  to  be.  My  own  work  at  present  is  chiefly 
that  of  looking  after  the  supply  of  teachers  in  the 
various  country  places." 

On  May  20th,  1897,  Pilkington  wrote  to  the 
Church  Missionary  Society  announcing  his  engage- 
ment to  Miss  Bertha  Taylor,  who  was  a  member  of 
the  second  party  of  lady  missionaries  to  Uganda. 

For  some  time  after  his  return  to  Uganda,  he 
seems  to  have  been  chiefly  occupied  in  making  plans 
for  the  further  consolidating  of  the  Native  Church, 
and  particularly  with  the  subject  of  self-support. 
In  the  course  of  a  letter  written  from  Mengo  on 
June  3rd,  1897,  he  writes  concerning  the  principle 


BY   BICYCLE   TO   UGANDA.  315 

of  "Teachers  supported  wholly  and  only  by  the 
Church  of  which  they  are  members."  "  The  C.M.S. 
has  come  to  the  conclusion  that  if  this  Church  were 
to  depart  at  all  from  this  principle,  it  would  strike 
a  blow  to  the  Missionary  cause  all  the  world  over. 

To  support  any  native  with  forei^m  money  is  to 
wrong  the  native  Church,  depriving  it  of  a  privilege 
and  a  stimulus  to  which  it  has  a  right. 

It  is  unfair  to  the  teachers,  depriving  them  of  a 
powerful  testimony  to  the  Gospel ;  when  supported 
by  native  funds,  they  can  appeal  to  these  as  evidence 
that  natives  like  those  with  whom  they  plead,  have 
found  the  Gospel  so  well  worth  having  that  the}' 
have  been  willing  to  deny  themselves  in  order  that 
others  might  hear  it. 

It  lays  the  teachers  open  to  the  suspicion  that 
they  are  the  bribed  agents  of  foreigners  who  desire 
to  denationalise  the  country  for  their  own  ends:  it 
alienates  from  our  side  the  patriotic  feeling,  and 
those  men  in  whom  this  feeling  is  strong ;  the  very 
men  we  need  to  build  a  really  independent  Church. 

If  it  is  objected  that  an  infant  church  cannot 
support  its  own  sons  who  are  teachers,  it  surely 
seems  reasonable  to  suppose  that  if  the  church  has 
had  strength  enough  to  produce  a  genuine  teacher 
sent  by  God,  the  less  precious  product  of  a  few 
shells  for  his  support  will  be  forthcoming. 

On  these  grounds  would  it  not  be  better  to  re- 
frain from  sending  out  teachers  than  to  send  them 
out  supported  bv  European  money,  w^hether  loan  or 

gift  ? " 

At   the   end  of  this  letter  he   says   "  I   propose 


316  PiLKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

to  ^^o  to  Budu  and  Koki,  starting  some  day  next 
week." 

On  June  29th  he  arrived  in  Koki,  in  company 
with  Mr.  Clayton,  having  passed  through  Budu,  on 
the  wa\'.  He  found  Mr.  Leakey  in  Koki,  and  whilst 
there,  sent  messengers  to  the  neighbouring  district 
of  Nkole  to  find  out  if  there  were  opportunities  for 
work  there,  but  without  any  satisfactory  result.  A 
few  days  later,  Mwanga  revolted  and  fled  from 
Mengo,  having  done  his  best  to  rally  round  him 
people  from  the  various  countries  round  Uganda. 
Some  idea  of  the  state  of  affairs  may  be  gathered 
from  a  letter  written  by  Miss  Chadwick  on  July 
24th,  1897. 

"It  has  really  been  an  anxious  week  for  every- 
body, and,  of  course,  all  kinds  of  rumours  came  up 
to  us  of  people  deserting  to  Mwanga.  However, 
the  native  chiefs  as  a  body,  seem  to  have  been 
splendidly  loyal  to  the  English,  and  their  people,  as 
a  whole,  to  them. 

This  is,  I  think,  the  most  hopeful  thing  we  have 
seen  in  this  people  yet,  as,  after  all,  we  have  to 
remember  we  are  foreigners,  and  personal  loyalty  to 
Kampala  would  hardly  have  carried  this  vast  body 
of  men  to  fight  as  they  have  done,  if  it  were  not 
that  English  rule  is  more  or  less  understood  as 
synonymous  with  law  and  order  and  religion,  and 
we  now  see,  in  spite  of  all  our  doubts  and  suspicions, 
the  reality  of  the  friendliness  of  the  Baganda. 
Practically,  all  the  big  chiefs  have  decisively  declared 
in  favour  of  law  and  order,  and  against  a  return  of 
despotism  and  heathenism,  which  Mwanga's  victory 


BY    BICYCLE   TO    UGANDA.  317 

would  certainly  have  meant  for  the  time  being. 
He  meant  to  turn  every  Englishman  out  of  the 
country,  I  believe.  That  is  pretty  widely  felt,  and 
it  is  really  everywhere  spoken  of  as  a  war  between 
religion  and  heathenism.  ...  I  have  not  yet 
told  you  what  the  news  really  is,  for  which  we  feel 
so  much  thankfulness.  Our  last  letters  went  out 
just  when  our  men  had  gone  off  to  Budu  to  look  for 
a  runaway  king.  Then  came  two  or  three  days  of 
quiet,  and  then,  very  disturbing  reports  that  the 
kingdom  of  Koki,  next  door  to  Budu,  w-as  inclined 
to  befriend  Mwanga ;  that  the  King  there, 
Kamswaga,  had  lent  him  300  guns  (an  utter  fabrica- 
tion), and  that  the  lives  of  Messrs.  Pilkington, 
Leakey,  and  Clayton  were  in  great  danger.  In  fact, 
Mr.  Pilkington  sent  up  a  letter  to  the  effect  that 
they  had  no  hope  of  getting  up  to  Buganda  again, 
but  might  possibly  escape  to  German  territory,  and 
made  his  will,  but  this  was  before  they  knew  how 
close  our  party  were  on  the  heel  of  the  king,  and  as 
a  matter  of  fact,  Kamswaga,  so  far  from  helping 
^Iwanga,  lent  Mr.  Pilkington  and  his  party  50  guns 
to  protect  themselves." 

Pilkington's  short  summary  of  the  rebellion  is 
given  in  a  letter  dated  August  nth,  1897  : 

'•  When  I  was  in  Koki,  Mwanga  ran  to  Budu  (50 
miles  from  us),  and  raised  a  rebellion  against 
Europeans,  Christianity,  civilization,  and  progress. 
He  and  his  friends  are  for  a  return  to  heathenism, 
slavery,  polygamy,  and  all  the  horrors  of  the  past. 
Ninety  per  cent,  of  the  people  are  probably  witli 
him  in  their   sympathies,    but,    in    the    body,    they 


SIS  PILKINGTON    OF   UGANDA. 

prefer  the  5;ide  which  musters  niost  gjrins  and  holds 
the  gardens.  We  were  in  some  danger  for  a  time  in 
Kold,  but  on  the  arrival  of  a  large  native  army  and 
Major  Ternan  \Aith  200  Soudanese  in  Budu,  and 
after  two  \'ictories,  each  of  them  fought  and  won  20 
or  30  miles  from  where  we  were,  things  became  all 
right,  and  I  came  back.  Mwanga  has  been  to  the 
Germans,  who  have  taken  him  prisoner.  The 
French  priest?  in  Koki  retired  to  German  territon', 
when  it  all  began.  Our  sta3Tng  was  useful,  we 
believe,  in  helping  Kamswaga,  King  of  Koki,  to 
stand  firm,  and  indeed  Major  Teman,  so  he  told  us, 
^Tote  to  Lord  Salisbun'  to  say  that  our  action  in 
staying  there  had  helped  the  Administration.  God 
will  bring  good  out  of  it  all,  as  always  hitherto," 
*•  August  17th.  On  Saturday,  Daudi  Chua,  a 
one-year-old  baby,  son  of  Mwanga.  wa?  proclaimed 
King.  The  two  Katikiros  (Protestant  and  Roman 
Catholic)  "with  Zachariah  Kangao,  one  of  the  native 
deacons,  form  a  Council,  who  will  rule  the  country 
till  His  Majest}'  is  old  enough.  Politically,  the 
Protestants  are  immensely  stronger  than  the}'  were, 
which  is  good  for  the  peace  and  stability  of  the 
countr}',  but  a  fresh  danger  to  the  Church.  Still, 
we  can't  but  be  most  thankful.  The  Commissioner 
asked  me  to  translate  into  Luganda.  and  read  out 
for  him,  the  proclamation  and  a  speech  to  the 
chiefs." 


CM  \rriK    win. 

Till:;     SKii^Nh     \ir  riw . 

Willi  tlu^  (\n\Miatioii  ot"  tlu'  lU'w  kmi;  aiul  ilu* 
lorniation  ot"  a  C\nincil  nt'  trnstworilu  rhii>t"s  to 
adniiiiinistc^r  the  L^oxornnuMU.  it  was  Iii^jhhI  tliat 
peace  aiul  qiiieinoss  had  been  sitiuihI  onci'  niorr. 
and  on  the  i  uh  o\  Septotnhia-.  rilkiiii^ton  writes:' — 

••  Mwani;a  has  been  taken  to  ilie  S^nitii  oi'  the 
Lake,  -and  the  eountiv  is  setthni;  iKnvii  attain. 

I  am  workini^  at  the  Liiiina  kini^iKiL^e.  tlie 
shepherd  tribe  ;  and  also  at  '  l'^lenientar\-  LnL;anda 
Lessees.'  I  have  just  perceived  how  ver\-  important 
a  part  o{'  a  hingua<:^e  intonation  is  (^thanks  to  Sweety 
and  I  am  working-  at  that  specialU  ncwN  ;  many 
\\iM\ls  are  distin^jnished  only  by  intiMiation. 

1  am  ha\im;  two  classes  per  week  witli  the 
teachers,  to  help  them  with  (x)  preaching;,  (ii)  read- 
ing, and  iiii"!  teachini^s  1  am  tryini;  to  show  them 
at  present  how  to  preaeh  horn  notes.  1  i^c^  round 
to  different  Churches  on  Sundays,  and  taki>  special 
note  of  the  preaching  and  reading. 

Miss  Chadwick  is  doing  something  at  Arabic  ;  I 
have  lent  her  m\'  (^irammar.  1  am  teaching  one  of 
ni\-  boys  to  use  tiie  typewriter  ;  he  can  cc^p\-  fairl\- 
correctly  now  ;  I  hope  soon  to  make  great  use  of 
him. 

919 


320  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

We  have  started  football  lately  !  I  play  most 
afternoons.     It  is  great  fun  and  good  for  the  boys. 

The  rebellion  is  still  greatly  hindering  the  work ; 
I  hope  we  shall  be  able  to  resume  fully  soon." 

With  regard  to  the  football,  Dr.  Cook  writes  : — 

"  September  2nd. 

"  Archdeacon  Walker  has  got  a  football  out  from 
England,  and  Pilkington  has  been  diligently  coach- 
ing the  boys.  It  is  very  comic  to  see  him,  as  he 
enters  with  great  earnestness  into  it.  .  .  .  I,  with 
my  boys  and  about  ten  others,  stood  Pilkington  and 
another  lot.  We  got  two  goals  each.  We  play  on 
a  large  grass  field  between  Kampala  and  Rubaga." 

Meanwhile  a  danger  was  at  hand  greater  than 
had  ever  yet  threatened  British  rule  in  Uganda. 
In  order  to  understand  the  situation  rightl}',  it  may 
be  well  to  remind  ourselves  of  the  method  by  which 
the  Protectorate  of  Uganda  was  being  administered. 

At  the  end  of  1891  it  will  be  remembered  that 
Captain  Lugard  brought  into  Uganda  a  number  of 
Sudanese  who  had  at  one  time  been  in  the  service 
of  Emin  Pasha.  Since  then — in  spite  of  the  treachery 
of  Selim  Bey,  which,  but  for  Captain  (now  Major) 
Macdonald's  prompt  action,  might  have  had  the 
most  serious  consequences — the  Sudanese  had  con- 
tinued to  be  employed  as  the  chief  soldiers  in  the 
employ  of  the  government,  and  not  only  was  the 
garrison  at  Kampala  largely  composed  of  them, 
but  they  were  scattered  over  the  country  to  form 
garrisons  for  various  forts  under  the  command  of 
British  ofBcers.  That  their  influence  upon  the  people 


THE    SECOND    .MUTINY.  321 

of  the  country  had  been  an  evil  (jiie,  can  hardly  be 
doubted,  but,  at  the  same  time,  they  were  well- 
trained  fighting  men,  and  served  a  useful  purpose. 
During  1897,  they  had  their  hands  full,  going  from 
one  place  to  another,  in  order  to  put  down  the 
revolution,  and  in  August,  Major  Ternan  left  for 
the  coast  with  a  company  of  Sudanese  who  had 
been  engaged  in  the  recent  fighting,  in  order  that 
they  might  join  Major  Macdonald,  who  had  been 
commissioned  by  the  British  Foreign  Office  to  con- 
duct an  exploratory  expedition  to  the  north  of  Lake 
Rudolph.  Major  Ternan  accordingly  met  Major 
Macdonald,  as  arranged,  and  the  latter  was  just 
starting  northwards,  when,  owing  to  certain  reasons, 
disaffection  spread  amongst  the  Sudanese  who  had 
come  from  Uganda,  who  accordingly  deserted  him. 
Of  the  causes  of  their  disaffection,  and  the  blame 
which  might  be  attached  to  one  or  another  in  this 
unfortunate  affair,  it  would  be  out  of  place  to  enter 
on  here,  suffice  it  to  say  that  after  unsuccessful 
attempts  on  the  part  of  Mr.  Jackson  to  come  to 
terms  with  them,  they  made  their  way  towards 
Uganda.  They  were  joined  by  other  Sudanese 
from  the  forts  of  Nandi  and  Mumia's,  and  eventually 
reached  Luba's  in  Busoga. 

With  this  brief  statement  we  may  now  turn  to 
the  graphic  account  of  the  outbreak  of  the  mutiny 
given  by  Dr.  A.  R.  Cook. 

"  In  Camp  at  Luba's, 

October  23rd,  1897. 
Terrible     things     have     happened     in     Uganda. 
About  three  weeks  ago,  300  Sudanese  soldiers  from 
Y 


322  PILKIXGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

the  Kampala  garrison  at  Mengo  were  sent  to  the 
Ravine  (Eldoma  station).  Here  they  mutinied,  and 
looted  a  large  store  of  the  Government  Agent's.  All 
the  Government  stations  in  Uganda  are  manned  by 
Sudanese — perhaps  i,8oo  in  all.  After  revolting,  they 
determined  to  march  back  to  Mengo,  raise  the 
standard  of  revolt,  kill  the  Europeans,  and  start  a 
Sudanese  kingdom  here.  They  arrived  at  the  station 
of  Nandi  and  looted  it,  obtaining,  among  other 
things,  3,000  rounds  of  ball  cartridge.  Fortified  by 
this  and  provided  with  plenty  of  ammunition  (nearly 
40,000  rounds  of  ball  cartridge),  they  marched  on  to 
Mumia's.  Here  Tomkins,  though  he  had  only  heard 
native  reports,  had  fully  grasped  the  situation  and 
promptly  disarmed  all  his  garrison,  armed  the  few 
Swahilis  he  could  get,  and  prepared  to  fight  to  the 
death.  He  cut  down  all  the  bushes  round,  &c.,  and, 
when  the  mutineers  appeared,  they  were  so  cowed 
they  failed  to  attack.  Passing  on  through  Busoga, 
they  killed  the  natives  and  looted  the  cattle,  finally 
appearing  before  the  fort  at  Luba's. 

Meanwhile,  rumours  were  brought  to  us  at  Mengo 
of  what  was  going  on,  and  Major  Thruston  started 
off  at  once  to  meet  the  mutineers.  Though  repeatedly 
warned,  he  declared  he  was  perfectly  confident  as  to 
the  loyalty  of  his  men,  and,  being  a  splendid  Arabic 
scholar,  was  confident  that  he  could  persuade  his 
troops  to  remain  loyal.  He  crossed  over  to  Luba's 
and  admitted  thirty  of  the  mutineers  to  a  conference. 
They  immediately  revolted,  with  the  whole  garrison 
at  Luba's,  and  seized  Major  Thruston  and  the 
commander  of  the  fort,  Wilson,  and  tied  them  up. 


THR    SFXOND    MUTINY.        .  323 

They  then  occupied  the  fort.  Of  course,  the  great 
danger  was  a  general  rising  of  the  Sudanese  through- 
out Uganda  and  the  massacre  of  the  Europeans. 

We  heard  the  news  at  Mengo  on  Monday  night 
(October  i8th).  The  officers  were  seized  on  the 
Saturday,  and  we  also  heard  that  our  two  Busoga 
missionaries,  Weatherhead  and  Wilson,  were  both 
in  chains  in  the  fort.  This  turned  out  to  be  false. 
Special  messages  were  instantly  sent  out  to  all 
the  ladies  and  other  missionaries  to  come  into  the 
capital.  That  night  we  hardly  got  any  sleep,  as  it 
was  feared  the  Sudanese  garrison  would  rise.  It 
was  decided,  on  the  advice  of  the  native  chiefs,  not 
to  send  the  ladies  away  to  an  island,  as  they  said 
they  would  be  probably  speared  en  route  by  the 
Bakopi.  Early  in  the  morning,  we  made  our  way  to 
Kampala,  and  rifles  and  ammunition  were  served  out 
to  us,  the  Hotchkiss  gun  and  Maxim  were  got  ready, 
and  then  the  Sudanese  were  summoned  to  lay  down 
their  arms,  which,  to  our  great  relief,  they  did. 
Meanwhile,  the  Baganda  were  being  summoned  in 
from  every  side,  and  hurried  off  to  the  Nile  to 
prevent  the  Sudanese  from  crossing.  It  was  a  great 
answer  to  prayer  that  the  Sudanese  were  disarmed 
so  quietly.  None  of  us  quite  knew  if  we  should  go 
back  that  morning. 

On  Tuesday,  October  19th,  matters  were  so 
threatening  that  Mr.  Wilson  (the  Acting-Commis- 
sioner of  Uganda)  asked  for  volunteers  from  the 
missionaries,  as  he  wanted  to  give  moral  support  to 
the  Baganda,  and  they  placed  great  confidence  in 
the  missic^naries.     We  at  once  held  a  conference  of 


324  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

all  the  male  missionaries  in  Mengo,  and  it  was 
decided  that  Pilkington  and  myself  should  go — 
Pilkington  to  act  as  interpreter,  myself  for  medical 
duty.  This  was  the  unanimous  opinion  of  Archdeacon 
Walker  and  all  the  missionaries.  Meanwhile,  the 
Mohammedan  Baganda  had  joined  the  rebels,  and 
things  looked  worse  and  worse.  Fortunately,  the 
ex-Mohammedan  king,  who  is  a  political  prisoner  at 
Mengo,  remained  loyal  to  the  Government,  and 
actually  sent  in  the  letters  he  had  received  from  the 
rebels  telling  him  to  make  himself  king  and  kill 
us  all. 

The  attacking  expedition  consisted  of  fifteen 
Europeans  and  2,500  Baganda,  but,  at  the  last 
moment,  all  the  Europeans  —  save  Pilkington, 
myself,  Captain  Malony,  and  Mr.  Malick  —  were 
recalled,  and  also  1,000  of  the  Baganda,  to  make 
the  capital  quite  secure. 

We  started — i.e.  Pilkington  and  myself — at  3  p.m. 
on  Wednesday  afternoon,  and  pitched  our  camp 
with  the  Katikiro,  only  four  miles  from  Mengo. 
After  three  and  a  half  hours'  sleep,  we  struck  camp 
at  4  a.m.,  and  marched  thirty-one  miles  to  Ngogwe. 
We  were  not  too  tired,  though  my  arms  were  badly 
burnt  by  the  sun  ;  for,  as  the  sky  was  covered  with 
clouds,  I  marched  with  my  coat  off  and  my  shirt- 
sleeves rolled  up  to  the  elbow.  At  Ngogwe  we 
found  Baskerville,  who  decided  to  stick  to  his  post 
until  we  returned,  as  in  all  probability  the  station 
would  be  looted  if  he  left.  He  is  now  in  no  danger, 
as  our  army  is  between  him  and  the  Nubians. 

Meanwhile,  we  heard  the  distressing  news  that 


THE    SFXOND    MUTINY.  325 

the  Government  steamer,  which  had  been  sent  with 
forty  Sudanese  soldiers  and  a  Maxim  to  fight  the 
rebels,  had  fallen  into  their  hands.  These  Sudanese 
revolted  and  joined  their  companions,  seizing  the 
unfortunate  engineer.  We  had  also  the  good  news 
that  Major  Macdonald  and  nine  other  Europeans 
had  hastily  armed  300  Swahili  porters,  and,  with 
eighteen  Sikhs,  were  keeping  one  day's  march  behind 
the  mutineers.  Pilkington  and  I  were  well  ahead  of 
the  other  Europeans  and  were  able  to  open  up  com- 
munication with  Macdonald. 

All  the  ladies  and  men,  with  the  exception  of  the 
two  Koki  missionaries  and  Buckley  in  Toro,  were 
now  in  the  capital.  Weatherhead  had  a  marvellous 
escape.  He  was  on  his  way  up  to  the  capital  for  a 
visit  to  Ngogwe,  when,  hearing  there  was  trouble  in 
Busoga,  and  not  understanding  that  the  Sudanese 
had  risen,  he  at  once  started  back  to  look  after  his 
station.  He  arrived  at  Luba's  at  4  a.m.,  Saturday 
morning,  just  as  the  rebels  were  tying  up  the  officers, 
and,  passing  quietly  through  them,  went  over  the 
hill  to  his  station  and  lay  down  to  rest.  In  a  short 
time,  however,  Unwa,  the  faithful  Buganda  teacher, 
rushed  in  and  told  him  of  his  imminent  peril. 
Groups  of  Sudanese  were  then  passing  the  house, 
and  he  hurried  him  away  through  the  bananas  and 
jungle,  and  crossed  the  Nile  at  Jinja  (the  Ripon 
Falls),  and  so  on  to  Ngogwe,  carrying  him  on  his 
back  part  of  the  way,  and  then  put  him  in  a 
canoe  and  sent  him  to  Mengo,  where  he  is  now 
safe  and  sound.  Of  our  other  missionary  in 
Busoga,    Wilson,   we    have    no    definite    news,    but 


316  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

believe  he  is  quite  safe,  as  he  is  twenty-live  miles 
north. 

To  return  to  Pilkington  and  myself.  After  a  very 
disturbed  night  at  Ngogwe,  we  pressed  sternly  on, 
and  at  g  a.m.  sighted  the  Nile  in  the  far  distance. 
We  arrived  opposite  Luba's,  and  saw  the  rebel  fort 
five  miles  across  the  Nile  at  1.45  p.m.,  having 
reached  the  Nile  (fifty-nine  miles)  in  forty-six  and 
a  half  hours  after  leaving  Mengo.  Meanwhile, 
Major  Macdonald  had  fought  a  great  battle  on  the 
19th,  and,  though  driving  off  the  rebels,  was  very 
short  of  ammunition.  One  European,  Fielding,  was 
killed  and  two  wounded,  including  the  doctor.  We 
had  sent  back  urgent  messages  for  ammunition,  and 
at  10  p.m.  it  arrived.  There  were  only  two  small 
canoes,  however,  so  we  sent  it  on  and  crossed  over 
with  the  Katikiro  and  a  fleet  of  twelve  canoes  in  the 
morning,  and,  making  a  long  detour  to  avoid  the 
rebel  fort,  arrived  at  Macdonald's  camp  at  noon, 
where  we  had  a  most  warm  welcome.  Meanwhile, 
(on  the  20th)  the  rebels  had  brutally  murdered  the 
three  prisoners  —  Major  Thruston,  Wilson  (the 
Government  captain),  and  Scott  (the  engineer).  Mr. 
Jackson,  who  was  on  his  way  to  be  Acting-Commis- 
sioner until  Mr.  Berkeley  returns,  is  severely 
wounded  in  the  shoulder,  and  thanked  us  most 
warmly  for  coming.  Dr.  Macpherson  was  wounded 
himself,  and,  though  suffering,  had  all  the  wounded 
to  look  after  ;  he  was  most  grateful  for  my  assistance. 

The  fight  on  Tuesday  was  most  severe ;  Major 
Macdonald's  party  managed  to  arrive  at  the  summit 
of  this  hill  without  the   Nubians  seeing  them.     He 


THE    SECOND    MUTINY.  327 

had  with  him  two  Maxims,  about  250  Swahih  porters 
armed  with  Sniders  and  Martinis,  eighteen  Sikhs, 
and  nine  other  Europeans.  Next  morning,  300  of 
the  Sudanese,  who,  of  course,  are  well  armed  and 
disciplined,  came  up  laughing  and  chatting,  and 
saying  they  did  not  want  to  light.  Major  Macdonald 
was  not  a  man  to  be  caught  napping,  and  quietly 
got  everything  ready.  Suddenly  the  Sudanese 
crammed  cartridges  in  their  rifles,  and  lired  on  the 
Europeans,  and  for  over  five  hours  a  fierce  battle 
raged,  the  men  often  firing  at  only  thirty  yards' 
distance.  At  length  the  ammunition  of  the  Major's 
party  began  to  fail,  and,  giving  the  word  to  charge, 
they  made  a  desperate  effort  and  drove  the  Sudanese 
back,  who  then  retired  to  their  fort,  where  they  have 
remained  since.  They  lost  sixty-four  killed  and 
thirty  or  forty  wounded  ;  our  side,  one  European  and 
sixteen  Swahilis,  and  many  severely  wounded.  The 
Sikhs  fought  magnificently. 

Some  2,500  Baganda  have  now  crossed  over,  and 
the  rebels  are  cooped  up.  The  Hotchkiss  gun  is 
expected  in  to-morrow,  and  if  they  do  not  surrender 
then,  I  suppose  there  will  be  some  desperate  fighting. 
Of  course,  there  are  no  non-combatants  in  Centra 
Africa,  and  Pilkington  and  I  take  our  turn  at  night 
duty,  etc.,  each  having  our  allotted  station  in  case  of 
an  attack.  The  view  from  here  is  superb,  thirty 
miles  each  way.  Through  the  telescope  we  can  see 
the  rebels  walking  about  below ;  two  or  three  days 
longer  will  settle  it.  There  are  still  some  corpses 
lying  unburied,  but  the  vultures  and  hyatnas  are 
clearing  them  a\va\-. 


328  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

My  hands  are  very  busy  with  the  wounded.  I 
know  how  much  you  will  remember  us  in  prayer — it 
is  a  very  serious  time  for  Uganda.  We  cannot  feel 
certain  as  to  the  garrisons  in  Budu  (300  Sudanese 
and  two  officers),  or  in  Toro  and  Bunyoro.  The 
answers  to  prayer  have  been  wonderful.  The  camp 
is  pitched  about  the  very  spot  where  Bishop 
Hannington  was  seized.  If  it  comes  to  a  fight, 
Pilkington  and  myself  will  stick  together.  I  feel 
sure  we  are  here  in  the  line  of  God's  will." 

"October  24th,  (Sunday). 

Mail  now  going — the  rebels  are  hemmed  in  and 
cannot  possibly  escape.  The  men  here  are  practising 
for  an  attack  as  I  am  writing.  We  had  an  alarm 
this  morning,  and  all  turned  out ;  but  the  enemy 
merely  sent  out  a  strong  picket.  There  are  now 
most  of  the  big  Baganda  chiefs  with  us,  and  perhaps 
3,000  or  4,000  spearmen  and  guns.  Port  Victoria 
and  Ntebe  are  practically  abandoned.  The  capital 
is  strongly  manned  and  quite  safe.  No  one  quite 
knows  what  will  happen,  but  it  will  be  just  right. 
Of  course.  Mission  work  in  the  country  is  almost 
stopped.  The  ladies  behaved  very  pluckily  when 
the  alarm  came.  All  eight  are  at  the  capital,  and 
probably  Namirembe  Hill  will  be  fortified. 

Poor  Thruston !  Only  a  few  days  ago  he  was 
chatting  with  me,  and  showing  me  his  sketches 
from  Bunyoro ;  and  Wilson,  too,  last  time  I  was 
here,  he  so  kindly  entertained  us — and  now . 

God  has  been  very  good  to  us  and  the  whole 
Mission.     For  a  time  there  was  very  real  danger, 


rHi-:  SHCoxD  ^1UTIN^^  329 

but  now  I  trust  it  is  passing  over.  x\ll  of  us 
Europeans  (except  the  sick  ones)  are  messing 
together.     I  must  now  close." 

Dr.  Cook  has  already  referred  to  the  reasons 
which  led  him  and  Pilkington,  after  conference  with 
the  other  Missionaries  and  with  their  unanimous 
approval,  to  help  in  quelling  the  mutiny  ;  but  as  it 
is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  understand  the 
circumstances  aright,  it  may  be  well  to  quote 
Pilkington's  own  view  of  his  position  and  also  that 
of  Major  Macdonald. 

On  November  23rd,  Pilkington  wrote  a  letter 
to  be  sent  home  in  case  of  his  death,  in  which  he 
says  : — 

"  We  go  down  to-morrow  morning  to  attack  the 
Sudanese,  and,  as  it  is  possible  that  I  may  be 
killed,  I  write  this  to  be  sent  to  you  in  that  case. 
I  hope  you  won't  think  my  being  here  and  my 
going  down  with  Capt.  Woodward  unjustifiable  for 
a  Missionary.  It  seems  to  me  to  be  my  clear  duty, 
and  I  go  without  any  doubt  or  hesitation.  I  may 
be  able  to  save  many  lives  by  maintaining  a  clear 
understanding  between  Woodward  and  the  Waganda : 
to  put  it  another  way,  a  misunderstanding  might 
cost  many  lives." 

But  nothing  could  make  matters  clearer  than  the 
following  letter  from  Major  Macdonald,  in  answer 
to  a  letter  from  Archdeacon  Walker,  asking  how 
soon  it  would  be  possible  to  dispense  with  the 
services  of  the  other  Missionaries  who  remained 
with  Major  Macdonald  after  Pilkington's  death: — 

••  With   reference  to  vour  wish  to  know  whether 


330  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

it  would  not  be  possible  to  withdraw  from  the  army 
in  Usoga  the  two  members  of  the  C.M.S.  who  are 
serving  with  the  forces  there,  I  have  the  honour  to 
inform  you  that  I  consider  such  a  step  would  be 
highly  undesirable  and  fraught  with  public  danger. 
Messrs.  Lloyd  and  Fletcher,  together  with  the  late 
Mr.  Pilkington,  whose  death  I  so  deeply  deplore, 
have  lent  invaluable  assistance  in  acting  as  inter- 
preters between  the  Government  officers  and  the 
Waganda,  in  carrying  orders  and  in  preventing 
misunderstandings  which  might  so  easily  occur. 
Their  withdrawal  in  this  crisis  would  undoubtedly 
greatly  detract  from  the  value  of  our  Uganda  levies, 
who,  in  the  siege  of  the  mutineers'  fort,  at  Lubwa's, 
have  to  fight  in  a  way  to  which  they  are  quite 
unaccustomed.  I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that, 
but  for  the  presence  of  the  members  of  the  Mission 
with  the  army  in  Usoga,  the  Waganda  would  lose 
far  more  heavily  than  they  have  done,  as  they  would 
not  so  fully  understand  the  wishes  and  plans  of 
the  officer  commanding. 

I  need  hardly  mention  that  the  present  military 
operations  are  quite  different  from  an  ordinary 
campaign  in  Uganda,  as  our  very  existence,  whether 
Government  officials,  missionaries,  or  traders, 
depends  on  our  quelling  this  mutiny.  It  behoves 
all  British  subjects,  whatever  their  profession,  to 
stand  together  until  the  mutiny  is  suppressed,  and, 
far  from  agreeing  to  the  withdrawal  of  Messrs. 
Lloyd  and  Fletcher,  I  would  ask  you  whether  you 
could  not  spare  another  member  of  your  Mission 
to  help  these  gentlemen  in  their  arduous  duties. 


THK    SECOND    MUTINY.  331 

I  am  aware  that  these  duties  are  not  those  for 
which  they  came  to  Uganda,  but  when  the  existence 
of  the  Protectorate,  and  consequently  of  the 
Missions,  the  lives  and  honour  of  English  ladies, 
and  the  saving  of  bloodshed  are  at  stake,  I  have  no 
hesitation  m  calling  on  all  British  subjects  to  assist 
in  these  military  operations  to  the  extent  of  their 
power." 

When  these  circumstances  are  realised,  and  when 
it  is  understood  that  the  Missionaries  were  not 
fighting  against  the  natives  of  the  country,  but 
standing  shoulder  to  shoulder  with  their  own  native 
brethren  to  help  to  defend  them  and  their  country 
from  what  was  in  effect  a  foreign  invader,  who 
could  suggest  that  they  were  not  in  the  place  of 
duty? 

But  to  return  to  the  situation  in  Busoga.  On 
November  4th,  Dr.  Cook  returned  to  Mengo  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Jackson  and  others  who  were 
wounded.  Pilkington  still  remained  on,  anJ  on 
November  12th,  1897,  after  referring  to  the  battle 
described  by  Dr.  Cook,  which  took  place  on 
October  igth,  he  writes  : — 

"  Next  afternoon,  the  friendly  Waganda  began 
arriving,  and  then  the  position  began  to  change  to 
what  it  is  now ;  the  Sudanese  shut  into  their  fort, 
and  getting  into  a  bad  way  for  want  of  food. 

The  Waganda  have  twice  fought  with  them,  and 
inflicted  considerable  loss,  losing  themselves,  alas, 
some  25  killed  and  80  wounded  ;  five  of  the  killed, 
teachers  of  ours.  We  are  waiting  now  for  ammunition 
before  going  down  to  the  fort  to  invest  it  by  making 


332  PILKINGTON    OP    UGANDA. 

a  fort  or  forts  if  necessary  round  it.  I  am  to  go 
with  Major  Macdonald  as  '  staff  officer  !  '  in  order  to 
interpret  between  him  and  the  Waganda. 

We  had  a  night  attack  the  other  day  ;  the 
Sudanese  came  up  in  the  middle  of  a  great  storm 
and  fired  20  or  30  shots  ;  we  fired  137,  inchiding 
some  rounds  from  the  Maxim.  It  was  12.30  a.m., 
and  I  got  wet  through.  We  have  night  watches, 
after  every  second  night,  at  first  more  frequently. 

The  Waganda  fought  most  bravely  the  other 
day,  to  the  great  surprise  and  admiration  of  the 
men  here  ;  but  their  praise  is  poor  compensation 
for  the  lives  of  our  friends. 

Dr.  Cook  returned  a  week  ago  to  the  Capital 
with  Mr.  Jackson  (shot  through  one  lung,  going  on 
well)  and  other  wounded.  About  the  same  time 
Fletcher,  Lloyd  and  Wilson,  all  of  C.M.S.,  came 
here,  so  we  are  four  missionaries  here  ;  and  two 
Roman  Catholics  came  a  few  days  later. 

Captain  Kirkpatrick,  one  of  Major  Macdonald's 
officers,  is  a  cousin  of  Lefroy  of  Delhi,  and  met  E — 
at  Delhi. 

Captain  Woodward,  also,  was  at  Harrow,  and 
so  knows  many  whom  I  know. 

Major  Macdonald,  you  remember,  was  in 
Uganda  before,  and  saved  the  country  from  a 
Mohammedan  outbreak.  He  has  saved  it  a  second 
time  now.  No  man  has  been  in  Uganda  for  whom 
I  have  a  greater  respect  and  admiration. 

The  great  danger  was  that  the  rest  of  the 
Sudanese  in  Uganda  and  Unyoro,  over  a  thousand 
in   all,    would   join    the    mutineers,    and    that  they 


THR    SF:C0XI)    AlUTIXV.  333 

would  be  joined  by  all  the  Mohammedan  Waganda  : 
or  that  the  rebel  heathen  part\-,  Mwanga's  friends, 
would  seize  the  opportunity  to  make  fresh  trouble. 
However,  up  the  present  all  is  quiet. 

The  rest  of  Major  Macdonald's  expedition,  400 
strong  and  four  Europeans,  have  been  sent  for. 
And  800  Indian  soldiers  from  the  Coast  are  ex- 
pected in  a  couple  of  months.  Then  things  ought 
to  be  pretty  secure.  But,  after  all,  our  trust  is, 
and  has  been,  in  God,  who  has  always  so  wonder- 
fully overruled  all  sorts  of  evil  in  this  country  to 
His  glory  invariably." 

"  Luba's, 

26th  November,  1897. 

Dearest  Mother, — 

I  must  write  a  line  to  tell  you  of  the  fight 
two  days  ago,  lest  you  should  be  anxious.  We  went 
down  to  the  fort  first  thing  in  the  morning,  the 
Wasoga  and  Waganda  on  our  flanks.  However, 
the  Waganda  went  too  fast  ahead,  and  were  met  by 
the  Sudanese,  whom  they  drove  back  into  the  fort, 
but  with  frightful  loss  to  themselves,  71  killed  180 
wounded,  among  them  one  of  my  friends,  Obadiya. 
who  wrote  you  that  letter,  shot  dead. 

We  t  00k  up  a  line  about  250  or  300  yards  from 
the  fort.  I  was  with  Woodward,  who  was  in 
command,  about  50  yards  further  back,  but  I 
spent  most  of  the  day  superintending  the  making,  by 
Waganda,  of  a  fort  which  we  intended  to  occupy  at 
night,  about  450  yards  from  the  fort.  Firing  was 
very  brisk  at   first,   and  two  or  three  sorties  were 


334  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

made,  and  driven  back,  but  the  heavy  tiring  was  too 
much  for  the  Waganda  workmen,  of  whom  one  was 
killed  and  one  wounded  ;  but  they  would  run  away 
in  parties  when  the  bullets  came  much  over  our 
heads  ;  and  so  by  evening  the  fort  was  not  finished, 
and  we  had  to  leave  it.  The  Sudanese  broke  it  up 
next  morning. 

The  position  in  Uganda  is  still  serious,  because 
more  Sudanese  may  mutiny,  or  there  may  be  a  fresh 
anti-European  rebellion  among  the  Waganda ;  but 
these  things  haven't  happened  yet,  thank  God. 
And  the  Sudanese  here  are  much  reduced  in 
numbers,  and  can  have  very  little  communication 
left. 

The  rest  of  Major  Macdonald's  expedition  (450 
rifles)  is  expected  soon,  and  Indian  troops. 

It's  terrible  to  see  these  Waganda  being  killed 
in  a  quarrel  not  theirs  but  ours 

It  was  some  comfort  to  share  a  little  of  the 
danger  the  other  day.  I  sometimes  half  wish  that 
some  of  us  Europeans  had  been  killed,  or  at  any 
rate  wounded,  if  it  weren't  for  friends  at  home. 

All  the  Europeans  except  those  on  watch  and 
three  Roman  Catholics  came  to  a  prayer  Meeting 
the  evening  before. 

We,  and  the  Country,  and  God's  work  here,  are 
all  in  His  hands,  and  it's  all  right. 

Your  loving  son, 

G.  L.  Pilkington." 

This  letter,  written  in  pencil,  is  actually  the  last 
letter  received  from  him. 


THE    SECOND    MUTINY.  335 

On  December  nth,  the  following:;-  letter  was 
written  by  Major  Macdonald  to  Archdeacon 
Walker  :— 


nth  December,  1897. 

Dear  Archdeacon, — 

I  am  very  sorry  to  say  that  Pilkington  was 
killed  in  to-day's  fight.  I  know  w^hat  a  loss  this 
is  to  you  all  and  to  Uganda,  and  more  especially 
does  my  heart-felt  sympathy  go  out  to  Miss  Taylor, 
as  such  brave,  fine  men  as  Pilkington  are  scarcely 
found.  I  cannot  quite  express  what  I  feel,  as  not 
only  have  I  lost  in  Pilkington  an  old  friend,  but  my 
brother  was  also  killed  in  to-day's  fight.  We  also 
lost  seven  natives  killed  and  fifteen  wounded,  and 
the  Waganda  lost  three  killed  and  ten  wounded, 
but  the  Nubians  were  completely  defeated,  and  lost 
more  than  all  our  loss  together. 

The  Nubians  fought  desperately  to  prevent  our 
cutting  the  last  of  their  shambas  on  the  right,  but 
it  was  no  use ;  they  were  repulsed  at  every  point 
and  driven  from  the  position  they  took  up,  and  the 
Waganda,  under  Fletcher,  completed  the  destruction 
of  the  shambas. 

So  our  victory,  though  dearly  purchased,  was 
complete. 

Yours  very  sincerely, 

W.  R.  S.  Macdonald." 

This  letter  was  accompanied  by  a  detailed  account 
of  that  sad  day  from  the  pen  of  Mr.  A.  B.  Lloyd : — 


336  PILKIXGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

"  The  Fort,  Luba's  Hill, 

December  nth,   1897. 

But  I  must  tell  you  some  of  the  details.  It  was 
arranged  this  morning  that  the  banana  gardens 
from  which  the  Nubians  get  their  food  should  be 
cut  down  by  the  Waganda.  A  covering  party  was 
to  go  out  to  the  front,  clear  the  gardens  of  all 
Nubians,  and  the  cutting  party  directed  by  our  dear 
brother,  to  follow  after.  The  advance  began  about 
seven  a.m.  Pilkington  took  up  his  position  with 
Captain  Harrison,  who  was  leading  the  attack. 
Presently  Pilkington's  boy  (Aloni),  who  was  by  his 
side,  shouted  out  '  There  they  are,  close  to  us.' 
Both  Pilkington  and  Captain  Harrison  saw  men 
coming  towards  them,  but  thought  them  Waganda, 
and  told  Aloni  so,  but  he  being  quite  sure  about  it, 
fired  a  shot  into  them  as  they  advanced,  and  this 
proved,  without  doubt,  that  they  were  Nubians,  for 
they  then  opened  their  fire  upon  our  men.  One  man 
took  several  deliberate  aims  at  Pilkington,  but 
missed  him.  Then  Pilkington  fired  a  few  shots  at 
him,  but  the  shots  went  wide,  and  then  it  was  that  he 
fired  again  at  our  brother,  shooting  him  right  through 
the  thigh  and  bursting  the  femoral  artery.  He 
cried  out,  '  Harrison,  I'm  hit,'  and  sat  down  on  the 
ground.  One  of  Harrison's  Nubian  officers  then 
shot  at  the  man,  who  was  still  close  by,  w^ho  had 
wounded  Pilkington.  He  missed  him,  and  the 
fellow  returned  the  fire,  hitting  the  officer  in  the 
left  arm,  breaking  his  arm,  and  shouted  out  to  him, 
'  Bilal,  what  are  you  doing  here  ?  Go  back  to 
Egypt.     Have  you  come  here  to  fight  against  vour 


THE    SECOND    MUTINY.  337 

brothers?*  '  Yes,' said  Bilal,  'you  arc  rebels,  and 
we  will  wipe  you  all  out.'  And  with  his  right  hand 
he  drew  his  revolver  and  shot  the  man  who  had 
killed  Pilkington. 

While  this  was  going  on  Harrison  had  made 
arrangements  for  some  Waganda  to  carry  Pilkington 
back  to  the  fort.  Aloni  knelt  down  by  his  side  and 
said,  '  Sebo  bakukubye,'  ('  Sir,  have  they  shot  you  ? ') 
Pilkington  replied,  '  Wewao  omwana  wange  bank- 
ubeye  '  ('  Yes,  my  child,  they  have  shot  me  ') ;  then 
he  seemed  to  get  suddenly  very  weak,  and  Aloni  said 
to  him,  '  My  master,  j^ou  are  dying,  death  has 
come,'  to  which  he  replied,  '  Yes,  my  child,  it  is  as 
you  say."  Then  Aloni  said,  '  Sebo,  he  that 
believeth  in  Christ,  although  he  die,  yet  shall  he  live. 
To  this  Pilkington  replied,  '  Yes,  my  child  it  is  as 
you  say,  shall  nevej'  die.'  Then  they  carried  him 
some  little  distance  to  the  rear  of  the  battle 
which  was  now  raging  most  furiously.  When 
they  had  put  him  down  again  he  turned  to  those 
w^ho  carried  him  and  said,  '  Thank  you,  my 
friends,  you  have  done  well  to  take  me  off  the 
battle-field ;  and  now  give  me  rest,'  and  almost 
immediately  he  became  insensible  and  rested  from 
his  pain. 

They  then  brought  him  into  the  camp,  but  we 
soon  saw  that  the  end  was  very  near.  We  did  all 
we  could  to  restore  him,  but  he  fell  quietly  asleep 
about  8.30. 

Just    before   they    brought    in    Pilkington,    Lieu- 
tenant    Macdonald     was    brought    in    quite    dead, 
shot  right  through  the  spine  by  Nubians  concealed 
7. 


338  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

in  the  long  grass.     It  was  awful   work,  and  one's 
heart  seemed  to  melt  within  one. 

The  fight  lasted  till  about  12  o'clock  midday. 
The  banana  cutting  went  on  ahead  and  a  huge 
garden  was  levelled  to  the  ground.  Fletcher  took 
Pilkington's  place  in  this  work.  At  midday,  the 
force  came  back  to  the  fort.  The  Nubians  had 
fought  with  more  determination  than  ever  before. 
They  made  repeated  charges  down  upon  our  men 
and  poured  in  volleys  of  shot.  Still,  our  total  loss 
was  comparatively  small.  I  suppose,  all  counted, 
Waganda  and  all,  not  more  than  30  killed  and 
wounded.  The  Nubians,  we  think,  lost  far  more 
than  that.  We  are  hoping  that  they  have  got 
through  their  cartridges,  and  that  they  will  not 
again  be  able  to  fight  with  such  cruel  results.  But 
it  is  a  bad  business,  and  there  must  be  a  good  deal 
of  fighting  yet  before  all  is  over." 

"December  12th. 

Last  night  another  attack  was  made  by  the 
Nubians  upon  our  lower  fort,  but  with  little  success 
— not  more  than  two  wounded  on  our  side. 

We  buried  Macdonald  and  Pilkington  last  even- 
ing under  a  tree  outside  of  this  fort.  I  read  the 
English  burial  service,  and  all  the  Europeans,  with 
the  Sikhs,  attended.     A  most  solemn  time." 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


A   LAST   WORD. 


To  give  expression  in  any  adequate  degree  to  the 
sense  of  the  loss  sustained  by  the  Church  of  Christ 
and  the  British  nation  generally,  by  the  death  of 
George  Pilkington,  would  occupy  more  space  than 
we  have  at  our  disposal.  The  public  Press,  secular 
and  religious.  Committees  of  Missionary  Societies, 
and  individuals  of  all  ranks  and  opinions,  have 
joined  with  one  voice  in  lamenting  the  sudden 
cutting  off  of  a  life  characterised  by  such  singular 
gifts  and  graces. 

But  most  touching  of  all  are  the  messages  that 
have  been  received  from  the  people  of  Uganda,  from 
his  fellow-missionaries,  and  from  Government 
officials  who  knew  him  in  the  field. 

First  of  all  we  may  give,  as  representing  the 
feelings  of  the  Christians  of  Uganda,  the  letter  of 
the  Rev.  Henry  Wright  Duta,  Pilkington's  chief 
assistant  in  the  translation  of  the  Bible.  He  writes 
to  the  Rev.  E.  Millar  as  follows: — 

"  Uganda, 

December  14th,  1897. 
My  Dear  Millar, — 

How   are   you,    m\'    friend  ?      1    Lell    you 
about  the  sorrow  which  has  jus  I  come   to   us  about 


340  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

our  brother,  Mr.  Pilkington,  whom  we  love  very 
much.  He  was  killed  in  the  Sudanese  war  in 
Usoga  on  December  nth. 

When  he  saw  that  the  Baganda  and  the  Govern- 
ment were  going  to  war  with  the  Sudanese  because 
they  had  mutinied — you  know  what  his  love  for  us 
is — he  went  to  the  war  with  Dr.  Cook,  Lloyd,  and 
Fletcher  ;  and  of  the  Baganda  many — no — were 
killed,  but  of  all  the  English  not  one  was  killed. 
Pilkington  was  very  sorry,  and  said,  '  I  want  very 
much  to  die.  I  should  have  liked  to  have  died  in 
place  of  those  Baganda.'  Well,  when  they  fought 
for  the  fourth  time  they  killed  him  and  Lieutenant 
Macdonald,  but  we  were  all  very  much  distressed  at 
the  death  of  Pilkington.  We  all  shed  tears ;  we 
cried  our  eyes  out.  Of  Pilkington  we  have  only 
now  the  footprints ;  but  it  is  difficult  to  follow  in 
the  footsteps  when  the  leader  is  not  there.  Pilking- 
ton has  died,  but  his  work  has  not  died ;  it  is  still 
with  us.  He  preached  to  all  men  the  Gospel — 
Protestants,  Roman  Catholics,  and  Mohammedans, 
all  lamented  him  when  he  died,  because  he  was 
beloved  by  all.  He  always  welcomed  both  the  wise 
and  the  foolish.     All  black  people  were  his  friends. 

We  jsorrow  very  much,  beyond  our  strength  ; 
we  do  not  see  among  the  missionaries  whom  we 
have  anyone  who  can  fill  his  place  and  take  on  his 
work.  I  worked  very  hard  at  teaching  him 
Luganda ;  he  learnt  it  very  well,  and  was  able  to 
speak  Luganda  like  a  native,  and  could  translate 
any  book  into  Luganda  without  my  help,  and  I  was 
not  afraid  of  him  making  any  mistakes. 


A    LAST   WORD.  341 

You  see  this  is  what  makes  all  of  us  Baganda  so 
sad.  Where  is  another  Englishman  to  give  himself 
as  he  did  to  this  work  of  translating  our  books  ? 

Therefore,  I  want  you,  if  you  are  still  in 
England,  and  have  not  yet  left,  to  go  to  the  Com- 
mittee of  the  Church  Missionary  Society  and  tell 
them  how  our  brother  Pilkington  has  been  killed  ; 
tell  them  the  Baganda  sorrow  very  much  for 
Pilkington — that  if  we  could  write  their  language 
(English)  we  would  have  written  to  them  in  tears, 
and  our  tears  would  have  fallen  upon  the  letter  as 
we  begged  them  to  seek  for  a  man  of  Pilkington's 
ability,  and  to  beg  him  to  come  here  and  take  on 
Pilkington's  work. 

His  body  will  be  disinterred  from  Usoga,  and 
buried  here  in  Uganda,  near  our  church,  that  we 
may  always  remember  him.  If  we  had  known 
how  to  carve  his  likeness  on  stone  we  would  have 
done  it ;  but  the  sight  of  his  tomb  will  suffice  us. 

My  friend  Millar,  I  entreat  you,  do  not  fail  to 
send  my  message  to  the  leaders  of  the  C.M.S.,  that 
they  may  send  us  someone  to  succeed  Pilkington  ; 
and  you  yourself,  do  you  beseech  with  tears  those 
Christians,  who  have  hearts  filled  with  the  love  of 
Jesus  Christ,  to  come  and  pity  us  and  help  us. 

It  would  be  an  excellent  thing  to  circulate  this 
letter  among  all  the  English.  I  know  their  love 
for  us.     They  will  hear  us.     I  trust  so. 

H.    W.    D.    KiLAKULE." 

"Someone  to  succeed  Pilkington,"  that  is  the 
plea    of   the    Church    in    Uganda,    and    shall    they 


342  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

plead    in    vain  ?      To    our    readers    we    leave    the 
answer  to  this  question. 

By  his  colleagues  his  loss  is  very  keenly  felt,  as 
the  following  extracts  from  letters  by  Archdeacon 
Walker  and  the  Rev.  G.  K.  Baskerville,  clearly  show. 

Archdeacon  Walker,  in  a  private  letter  from  Ugan- 
da, dated  December  21st,  1897,  writes  as  follows: — 

''  By  telegram  you  will  have  heard  of  the  sad  loss 
this  Mission  has  sustained  in  the  death  of  Mr. 
Pilkington.  We  have  lost  not  only  a  friend,  but 
one  who  was  completely  devoted  to  the  work  here. 
Pilkington  was  always  ready  to  give  advice,  and  to 
hear  patiently  any  matter  that  concerned  the  good  of 
these  people.  He  was  a  man  of  very  great  intellectual 
ability,  and  had  gained  a  very  complete  knowledge 
of  the  native  language.  We  had  hoped  that  he 
would  have  prepared  many  useful  books  for  these 
people.  A  commentary,  and  histories,  as  well  as  a 
grammar  and  dictionary,  were  all  in  contemplation, 
and  partly  begun.  We  always  looked  to  Pilkington 
for  advice  in  any  forward  movement.  He  was  so 
fair  in  all  his  judgments,  and  so  much  respected  and 
beloved  by  all  the  people,  that  his  influence  was 
very  largely  felt.  We  always  felt  that  Pilkington 
was  so  much  in  sympathy  with  the  natives  that  he 
could  do  almost  anything  he  liked  with  them.  But 
now  he  has  been  taken  from  us,  and  we  are  deprived 
of  all  the  help  and  comfort  his  presence  gave  us.  I 
trust  the  native  Christians,  and  especially  the 
ordained  men,  will  exert  themselves,  and  so  supply 
in  some  measure  what  we  have  lost." 

Mr.  Baskerville,  \vho  was  Pilkington's  companion 


A    LAST    WORD.  343 

on  so  many  occasions,  and  especially  in  his  journeys 
to  and  from  Africa,  writes  : — 

"  My  heart  bleeds  about  dear  Pilkington.  I  can- 
not see  how  the  gap  will  be  filled  in  the  work. 
Clear  head,  sound  judgment,  grasp  of  native 
language,  customs,  &c.  ;  universally  respected  by  all 
creeds,  a  born  leader.  I  feel  as  if  I  ought  to  write 
an  '  In  Memoriam,'  but  what  can  I  say  ?  " 

From  the  Administration  comes  the  following 
remarkable  tribute. 

"  Kampala, 

December  13th,  1897. 

Sir, — 

I  have  been  asked  by  Mr.  Jackson  and  the 
whole  of  the  staff  of  this  Administration  to  give 
expression  to  the  deep  and  heart-felt  sympathy, 
which  they  feel  with  the  members  of  the  Church 
Missionary  Society  in  the  loss  they  have  sustained 
by  the  death  of  our  friend,  Mr.  Pilkington. 

We  join  with  you  all  the  more  deeply,  in  that 
we  feel  that  the  misfortune  is  one  that  falls  upon  all 
Uganda,  and  I  am  sure  that  no  higher  tribute  could 
be  paid,  nor  one  which  Mr.  Pilkington  would  have 
esteemed  greater,  than  the  sorrow  which  is  expressed 
by  the  native  population  of  the  country  for  which 
he  has  worked  so  hard,  and  for  the  honour  of  which, 
I  believe  we  can  say  in  all  sincerity,  he  has  given  up 
his  life. 

I  am.  Sir, 
Your  most  obedient,  humble  servant, 

George  Wilson. 
The  Venerable  Archdeacon  Walker. 

Namirembe."' 


344  PILKINGTON    OF    UGANDA. 

Captain  Villiers,  of  the  Royal  Horse  Guards, 
who  had  known  Pilkington  in  Uganda,  bears  the 
following  testimony  to  his  work  : — "  It  is  owing  to 
the  attachment  of  the  Protestant  Waganda  to  men 
like  Mr.  Pilkington,  that  we  have  been  able  to  hold 
Uganda  so  easily  up  the  present  time.  In  Mr. 
Pilkington's  death  the  cause  of  civilization  in 
Africa  has  received  a  severe  blow,  and  England  has 
lost  a  most  devoted  servant." 

One  more  quotation  may  be  given,  and  that  is 
from  the  letter  of  Bishop  Hanlon,  the  English 
Roman  Catholic  Bishop  in  Uganda,  who  writes  to 
Archdeacon  Walker  : — "  We  do  heartily  condole 
with  you  in  the  deep  affliction  that  has  befallen  you 
by  the  death  of  a  dear  friend  and  fellow-labourer  of 
such  ability.  I  can  to  some  extent  realize,  dear 
Archdeacon,  what  the  death  of  a  member  of  Mr. 
Pilkington's  worth  must  mean  to  your  mission,  and 
that  he  has  left  a  void  it  will  be  difficult  to  fill." 

From  later  information  we  learn  that  the  wish  of 
the  people  was  carried  out,  and  "  on  Friday, 
March  i8th,  Mr.  Pilkington's  body,  which  had  been 
brought  from  Busoga,  was  buried  with  military 
honours  at  Mengo.  The  Acting  Administrator  and 
Major  Macdonald  and  most  of  the  officials  and  a 
large  crowd  of  natives  were  present.  The  coffin 
was  covered  with  a  Union  Jack,  and  a  party  of 
Swahilis  and  Punjabis  fired  a  volley  over  the  grave. 
The  Rev.  Henry  Wright  Duta  and  the  Rev.  G.  K. 
Baskerville  conducted  the  service.  A  grave  had  been 
dug  in  line  with  those  of  the  other  Europeans  who 
had  been  buried  on  what  is  called  the  '  Church  Hill." " 


A    LAST    WORD.  345 

Of  the  state  of  affairs  in  Uganda  after  Pilkington's 
death,  it  is  sufficient  to  say  that,  after  considerable 
trouble  in  dealing  both  with  detachments  of  the 
mutineers  and  also  with  Mwanga  and  his  con- 
federates, the  peace  of  the  country  seems  to  have 
been  once  more  secured.  Missionary  work  has 
been  re-opened  in  many  places  where  temporarily 
it  had  been  closed,  including  Luba's  in  Busoga,  and 
it  is  hoped  that  the  future  may  see  a  great 
development  from  Uganda  as  a  centre  for  all  the 
surrounding  countries. 

And  now  we  have  told  our  story,  and  we  may 
close  most  fitly  by  giving  Pilkington's  concluding 
message  from  the  little  pamphlet,  "The  Gospel  in 
Uganda,"  and  which  is  entitled,  "A  Last  Word." 

"We  have  stood  together  now  in  fancy  on 
Namirembe's  far-viewing  summit ;  we  have  looked 
across  Unyoro's  plains  into  the  far  Nile  valley  and 
the  vast  Sudan :  we  have  gazed  in  imagination 
across  the  Albert  on  into  the  Great  Forest,  and 
wondered  when  that  strange  pigmy  race  will  learn 
that  they,  too,  are  objects  of  the  Eternal  Love. 
We  have  looked  across  many  a  mile  into  wild 
Kavirondo ;  we  have  pictured  the  great  Lake  the 
centre  of  a  united,  active  Church,  sending  its 
evangelists  east  and  west,  north  and  south,  to  many 
nations  and  many  tongues. 

But  now  comes  the  question  :  Is  all  to  end  here  ? 

Oh,  let  us  be  real !  Emotion  is  no  substitute  for 
action.  You  love  Africa,  do  you  ?  '  God  so  loved 
that  He  gave — ' 

God  gave — what?  Superfluities?   Leavings  ?  That 
which  cost  Him  nothing? 
A  2 


346  PILKINGTON    OP    UGANDA. 

'  When  ye  shall  have  done  all.  say.  We  are 
unprolitable  servants ;  we  have  done  that  which  was 
our  duty  to  do.' 

If  we  are  doing  less  than  all,  we  are  robbing  God. 

What  is  the  present  position  ? 

(i.)  The  Son  of  God  sitting  on  the  right  hand  of 
His  Father,  all  power  in  heaven  and  earth  His, 
having  reached  the  gift  of  the  Holy  Ghost  to  pour 
on  each  yielded,  believing  soul. 

(ii.)  The  world  wide  open  almost  e\'erywhere. 

(iii.)  Two-thirds,  at  least,  of  the  human  race 
having  never  heard  the  message  of  forgiveness  which 
is  for  all. 

(iv.)  Mohammedanism  and  Heathenism  and  In- 
fidelity increasing  more  rapidly  than  Christianity  ! 

(v.)  Christians  (so  we  call  ourselves)  satisfied  !  Is 
God  satisfied  ? 

We  salve  our  consciences  by  doing  a  little,  and 
refuse  to  recognize  the  fact  that  the  work  for  which 
the  Lord  died  is  not  being  done. 

A  house  is  being  built  :  the  workman,  paid  by  the 
day,  does  not  care  if  for  each  brick  he  lays  two 
others  fall  down  :  he  gets  his  pay. 

But  is  the  Master  satisfied  ? 

Let  us  confess  that  hitherto  we  have  only  been 
playing  at  Missions.  God  has  given  us  much  more 
than  our  miserable  efforts  have  deserved. 

Let  us  begin  in  a  new  way. 

New  prayer  ;  new  giving  ;  new  going. 

The  World  for  Christ,  Christ  for  the  World,  in 
this  generation  !  " 


INDEX. 


Accompanying  Troops,  Reasons 
for,  217,  323,  329. 

Acland,  Sir  Henry,  250. 

Aloni,  336,  2,2,7. 

Anonya  Alaba,  246,  270. 

Ashe,  Rev.  R.  P.,  132,  139; 
Translations,  146,  265. 

Baganda,  IF4,  224,  295  ;  Thirst 
for  knowledge,  12 1-3,  136-8, 
iS'j  199  ;  Political  parties, 
121,  168;  Evangelistic  work, 
145-7,  275-280;  liaptisms, 
284  ;  Ordinations,  &c.,  209  ; 
vSpiritual  revival,  222  -  239  ; 
Teachers,  231,  236,  273-4; 
Native  church,  272-286,  314. 

Baptisms,  284. 

Barter,  Articles  of,  76-7,  126, 
148. 

Baskerville,  Rev.  G.  K.,  63  ; 
Ordination,  in;  Furlough, 
240;  Letters  from,  160,  225- 
230,  342. 

Bassett,  Mr.,  4. 

Bayima,  228. 

Bedford,  51. 

Bexhill,  262. 

Bible  Translation.  264-271. 

Bicycle  Journey,  302-310. 

Binns,  Rev.  H.  K..  65. 

Books,  137,  164-8,  193,  199,  200. 

Boutflower,  Rev.  Cecil,  40. 

British  East  Africa  Company, 
158,  170,  209. 

Broadrick,  Mrs.,  i  5. 

Budu,  317. 


Buganda,  114-5;  Revolutions, 
9c,  141,  161,  316  ;  C.  M.  S. 
work,  113,  157,  236;  The 
king,  119,  180-2,  316,  318, 
324;  Country,  120;  Roman 
Catholics,  142,  160-184; 
Provinces,  147,  152;  Civil 
war,  161 -184;  British  Pro- 
tectorate, 209  ;  Mutinies,  210- 
220,  320-338  ;  Native  church, 
272-286;  Missionary  meet- 
ings, 275-280 ;  Future  pros- 
pects, 287-301  ;  New  king, 
318. 

Bugaya,  281. 

Bukasa,  282. 

Bushell,  Rev.  W.  D.,  48,  64,  248. 

Busi,  279. 

Busoga,  145-6,  201,  322-338. 

Buvuma  Islands,  281. 

Cambridge,  20-40,  252. 

Cathedral,  168,  201,  273. 

Chadvvick,  Miss,  309,  316. 

Chagga,  75. 

Children's  Special  Service 
Mission,  23,  47,  132. 

China  Inland  Mission,  43,  52. 

Christian,  The,  140. 

Church  Collections,  278-9. 

Church  Missionary  Society  : 
Boat,  103-4,  108-111,  1 16-7; 
Committee,  60-1,  205  ;  Meet- 
ings, 61-64,  159,  248-9. 
Missionaries,  61-63,  65,  ']2>'> 
89,  91,  113,217;  Policy,  52-4, 
289-294,315;  Secretaries,  58, 


INDEX. 


65  ;  Stations,    7^,  75>  S9,  91, 
103,  115,  120,  293. 
Civil  War,  160-184. 
Classics,  xii,  xiii,  4,  20,  21,  35, 

38,  41,  42,  50,  195-7,  252. 
Clifton  College,  44. 
Climate,  115,  145,  150. 
Clothing,  140,  187. 
Cole,  Rev.  H.,  92. 
Cook,  Dr.  A.  R.,  320-9,  331. 
Cooking,  131,  :{ii. 
Cotter,  J.  D.  M.,  63,  78. 
Crabtree,  Rev.  W.  A.,  266. 
Crawfurd,  Mr.,  66. 
Daudi  Chua,  318. 
Deacons,  209. 
Deekes,  D.,  107,  no. 
Dermott,  Rev.  J.  V.,  84,  94,  107. 
De  Winton,  Mr.,  139,  191. 
Donkeys,  84,  86,  95. 
Douglas,  Rev.  Shoito,  30. 
Dover  College,  47. 
Dowse,  Dean,  35,  313. 
Drury,  Rev.  T.  W.,  270. 
Dublin,  4. 
Dunn,  Mr.,  11 1. 
Duta,   Henry  Wright,   128,  130, 

143,  163,  339. 
Du  Wallah,  174. 
East     Africa  :     Description    of 
Country,    70,    73,   89,   91,   94, 
115,   120;   Fauna  and  Flora, 
70-4,  140,   190;  Native  races, 
95,   114,  228,  319;  Religions, 
219,  299  ;  British  East  Africa 
Company,  158,  170,  209    (See 
also  "  Buganda.") 
El  win,  Rev.  E.  H.,  47. 
Emin  Pasha,  82,  103,  149. 
Fauna  and    Flora,    70-74,    140, 

190. 
Fever,  72,  78,  146. 
Fisher,  A.  B.,  231. 
Food,  69,  86,  95,  102,  10;,  11: 

186. 
Football,  320. 
Frere  Town,  64. 


Gleaners'  Union  Meetings,  159, 
248. 

Gordon,  Rev.  E.  Cyril,  118, 124, 
265. 

Gordon,  General,  288. 

Hanlon,  Bishop,  344. 

Hannington,  Bishop,  66,  328. 

Harrow,  48,  109. 

Heathenism,  219,  299. 

Hey  wood.  Rev.  R.  S.,  63. 

Hill,  Mr.,  78,  83. 

Holy    Spirit,    222-9,    235,    258, 
261. 

Hooper,  Rev.  Douglas,  23,  51, 
81,  84,  III. 

Hunt,  Mr.,  109. 

Hyslop,  Mr.,  39,  48,  261. 

Inskip,  Rev.  T.  J.,  44. 

Interpretation,    207,    212,   324, 
330. 

Islands,  205,  232,  281-4. 

Itinerary,  304-8. 
Jackson,  Mr.,  321,  332. 
Jaeger  Boots.  40,  106,  187. 
Jungo,  237. 

Kampala,  176-8,  191,  210. 
Kamswaga,  King  of  Koki,  141, 

276. 
Kanta,  175-8. 

Kasagama,  King  of  Toro,  277. 
Katikiro,  133,  174,  214,  227. 
Keswick,  261. 
Kiganda   (Swahili),    114.     (See 

Luganda.) 
Kilimanjaro,  73. 
Kimbugwe,  152,  172. 
Kimegi,  89. 
King,  G.  A.,  303,  313. 
Kisokwe,  90. 
Klein,  Arthur,  25 
Koki,  141,  276,  317. 
Kome,  Island  of,  222,  225,  281. 
Kuilwe,  185,  189. 
Kyagwe,  278,  280. 
Lang,  Rev.  R.,  191. 
Languages — see  Philology. 
Leakey,  R.  H.,  228,  316. 


INDEX. 


Ill 


Literature,  Importance  of,  167, 
200,  206. 

Livingstone,  David,  288. 

Lloyd,  A.  B.,  330,  335. 

Lubale,  219. 

Luba's,  321-338. 

Luganda,  1 14  ;  Language  study, 
106-7,  123,  192-208,  258; 
Translations,  123,  128-131, 
144,  192-208,  264-271;  General 
suggestions,  192  ;  Grammar, 
125,  134  ;  Dictionary,  197  ; 
Specimens  of  roots,  199  ; 
Phonetics,  245,  257  ;  Native 
proverbs,     259  ;     Intonation, 

319- 
Lugard,  Captain,    114,  121,  157, 

170-5. 
Lusoga,  198. 
Luyima,  198,  205,  319. 
Macdonald,       Captain       (now 

Major),  21 1 -2 18,  232,  320-335. 
McDonnell,  Sir  Alexander,  2. 
McDonnell,  Dr.  Robert,  3. 
Mackay,  A.  M.,  72,  114,  265. 
Mackay,  Sembera — see  "  Sem- 

bera." 
Mamboia,  86,  89. 
Mengo,  115,  152  ;  Plan  of,  177  ; 

Cathedral,     168,    201,     273  ; 

Native    congregations,     201, 

207,  273  ;  mutiny,  323. 
Methods  of  work,  255. 
Mgunda  Mkali,  102. 
Milk,  105,  185. 
Millar,  Rev.  E.,  227,  339. 
Missionary  Meetings,   61,    249, 

275. 
Mohammedans,     122,    211-216, 

234,  324. 
Molony,  Rev.  H.  J.,  24,  34. 
Mpwapwa,  91. 
Muganda,  1 14,  295. 
Mundara,  King  of  Chagga,  75. 
Musa  Yakuganda,  226-7. 
Mutesa,  167. 
Mutinies,  210-220,  320-338. 


Mwanga,  119,  160,  166-7,  180-2; 
Flight,  316  ;  Taken  prisoner, 
318,  324. 

Namirembe,  141,  273. 

Nassa,  205. 

Nathaniel,  276. 

Native  Agency,  234,  248,  289, 
294-7. 

Native  Church,  272-286.  314-5- 

Native  Proverbs,  247-8,  259,  260. 

Native  Tribes,  95,  228,  319  ;  see 
also  Baganda,  Wagogo. 

Neil,  R.  A.,  41. 

Nikodemo — see  Sekibobo. 

Nile,  River,  115. 

Noah,  144,  277- 

Northern  Route,  240. 

Nsazi,  281. 

Ordinations,  79,  1 1 1,  209. 

Oxford,  249. 

Parker,  Bishop,  114. 

Pembroke  College,  Cambridge, 
20-40,  53.  See  also  Dr.  Searle. 

Perry,  Mr.,  14,  17,  19. 

Persecution,  298. 

Philology  :  Methods  of  Study, 
84,  107,  192,  258-9;  General 
suggestions,  192 ;  Roots, 
197-9  ;  Allied  languages,  106, 
197,  205,  245  ;  Phonetics,  245, 
257  ;  Dialects,  197,  3^9  ;  In- 
tonation, 319;  see  also  Lu- 
ganda, Kimegi,  Lusoga,  Lu- 
yima, Swahili. 

PiLKlNGTON,  George  Law- 
rence :  Birth,  i  ;  Parents,  i  ; 
Boyhood,  3  ;  Uppingham, 
xi.-xvi.,  8  :  Scholarships  and 
prizes,  12,  14,  18,  20,  43  ; 
Tutorship,  15  ;  Athletics,  16, 
320;  Confirmation,  19;  Cam- 
bridge, 20  ;  C.S.S.M.,  23,  47  ; 
Conversion,  26  ;  Christian 
work,  28,  34  ;  Gospel  Mis- 
sions, 34,  36-8, 43-4  ;  Classical 
tripos,  38  ;  Testimonials,  41-2, 
50;      Missionary     call,     41; 


IV 


INDEX. 


China  Inland  Mission,  43,  52  ; 
Harrow,  48;  Bedford,  51  ;  Ac- 
cepted by  C.M.S.,  61  ; 
Arrival  in  Africa,  64  ;  Visit  to 
Kilimanjaro,  65;  Fever,  72,  78, 
146;  Travels,  80-112,  240-3, 
302-310;  Arrival  in  Uganda, 
117;  Early  impressions,  120; 
Language  work,  123,  128,  134, 
144,  146,  192-208,  245,  264- 
271  ;  Appeals,  150,  155,  291. 
345-6  ;  Love  for  natives,  183, 
340  ;  Spiritual  revival,  222- 
239  ;  Accompanying  troops, 
229-232,  320-334  ;  Annual 
letter,  236  ;  Furlough,  240  ; 
Protestantism,  246,  270-1  ; 
Bible  translation,  264-271  ; 
Bicycle  journey,  302-310  ;  En- 
gagement, 314  ;  Death,  335- 
338  ;  Burial,  338,  344. 

Pokino,  141,  178-9. 

Political  Parties,  121,  168. 

Portal,  Sir  Gerald,  209. 

Portal,  Captain,  216. 

Prior,  Rev.  C.  H.,  40. 

Protestants,  121,  160-184,  218, 
318. 

Rabai,  67. 

Railway,  240,  243. 

Rawnsley,  Mr.  12. 

Reading,  121,  143,  206,  227. 

Religions,  219,  299. 

Revival,  222-239. 

Rochester,  Bishop  of,  252. 

Roman  Catholics,  121,  142,  151, 
160-184,  233,  246,  270-1. 

Roots  of  Language,  197-9. 

Roscoe,  Rev.  J.,  217,  227. 

Routes — Northern,  240-3,  302- 
310;  Southern,  80-112. 

Rowling,  Rev.  F.,  311. 

Rubaga,  179. 

Rutako,  Pass  of,  91. 

Saadani,  82. 

Searle,  Rev.  Dr.,  59,  60,  252. 

Sekibobo,  218-9. 


Self-support,  314-5. 
Selim  Bey,  157-8,  210-220. 
Sembera  Mackay,  143,  161,  179, 

183. 
Sese    Islands,     iii,     130,    278, 

282-4.  _ 
Siegel,  Lieut.,  96-100. 
Singo,  231. 

Skrine,  Rev.  J.  H.,  xi-xvi,  13,  19. 
Slavery,  76,  299. 
Smith,  Rev.  F.  C,  106,  146,  201. 
Stanley,  H.  M.,  113. 
Stock,  Eugene,  150. 
Stokes,  Mr.,  82,  98,  106. 
Student    Volunteer    Missionary 

Union,  253-8. 
Sudanese,    157,    210-220,    320- 

338. 
Superstition,  76,   189,  219,  220, 

278,  299. 
Swahili,  197,  203,  264. 
Sweet's   '  Primer  of  Phonetics,' 

245,  257,  319. 

Taita,  'j'i,,  76. 

Taveta,  74-5. 

Taylor,  Miss  B.,  314,  335. 

Taylor,  Rev.  W.  E.,  243. 

Teaching,  164,  273. 

Thornton,  Douglas  M.,  262, 

Three  Years'  Enterprise,  289- 
294. 

Thring,  Rev.  Edward,  11,  14, 
40. 

Thruston,  Major,  322,  326. 

Tore,  I,  36,  38. 

Toro,  277. 

Translations,  123,  128- 131,  144, 
192-208,  264-271. 

Travelling,  87,93,  186,  240,  294- 
295,  302-310. 

Tucker,  Bishop,  82,  137;  Letters 
from,  92,  117,  123,  206-8,  209. 

Uganda — see  under  Baganda, 
Buganda,  Luganda  ;  also 
under  Climate,  Political  par- 
ties, Religions,  &c. 

Ugogo,  94. 


INDEX. 


Universities'  Camps,  262. 

Water  Supply,  145. 

Unyanguira,  92,  96. 

Weatherhead,  Rev.  H.  W.,  311, 

Unyoro,  236. 

325- 

Uppingham,  xi-xvi,  8-19. 

Webb-Peploe,  Rev.  H.  Murray, 

Usambiro,  103,  107. 

27,  46. 

Usoga — see  Busoga. 

Welldon,  Rev.  J.  E.  C,  50. 

Usongo,  102,  106. 

Wigram,  Rev.  F.  E.,  54,  58,  167. 

Victoria  Nyanza,  114,  281 

;  see 

Williams,    Captain,     146,     160, 

also  under  "  Islands." 

170,  181. 

Villiers,  Captain,  230,  344. 

Wilson,  Mr.  George,  323,  343. 

Waganda   (Swahili),    114; 

see 

Wilson,   Mr  (Government  cap- 

under "  Baganda." 

tain),  322,  326,  328. 

Wagogo,  95-101. 

Wilson,  Mr.  (C. M.S.),  323,325. 

Walker,  Ven.  Archdeacon, 

118, 

Wolfendale,  Dr.,  99. 

329,  342. 

Wood,  Rev.  A.  N.,  89. 

Wambuzi,  273-4. 

Zulu,  197. 

i 


R.  W.  Simpson  &  Co.,  Ltd.,  Printers,  Richmond, 


